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#11 Old 12-21-2013, 04:44 PM
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An oil change on the 1.6L can be tricky due to the filter placement, but not impossible. Unless they have a special tool, dealership mechanics do them all the time. If it's the first oil change, be aware that the factory filter is put on with a machine and can be a bear to remove because it's over tightened. You may want to consider having the dealership do the first change because of this.
The best and easiest way is to get yourself some carbon fiber ramps, remove the under body shield, which is easy, but requires a torx head driver, a #15 if I recall, a metric socket for 3 or 4 of the screws and a metric socket for the drain plug, I don't recall those sizes. Make sure you have a filter wrench that fits the 910S filter and have at it. From pictures I've seen, the filter is on the side of the engine and a bit of a reach and contortion. Just make sure you can get to and feel confident you can remove the filter before draining the oil, just in case you have to drive to the dealership to have the oil changed. Good luck.

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#12 Old 01-03-2014, 01:28 PM
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I have done my own oil changes since purchasing my 1.6 escape, its really not that bad once you take the bottom cover off. They make oil filter tools to loosen them if they are to tight but its not like your going to save and reuse the filter so just stick a screw driver through it to give yourself some extra leverage.
Yes the oil filter is tucked up the side of the motor, yes its easier to access it from the bottom then the top, yes your going to get some oil on some front end parts because they sit directly below the filter but thats what shop rags are for.
Good luck.
ATTN reset your oil life after changing:

1. Press the start/stop button once (do not start the engine).
2. Press both the accelerator and brake pedals at the same time.
3. Keep both pedals fully pressed.
4. After three seconds, the Service: Oil reset in prog. message will be displayed.
5. After 25 seconds, the Service: Oil reset complete message will be displayed.
6. Release both the accelerator and brake pedals.
7. The Service: Oil reset complete message will no longer be displayed.
8. Turn the ignition off and start the engine to verify the indicator has been reset.

When doing the oil change and topping up fluids you will need to use the following specifications:
Engine Size
-2.5L
-2.0L
-1.6L
Motor Oil
-5W20 Synthetic
-5W30 Synthetic
-5W20 Synthetic Blend
Oil Capacity
-5.7 qt. (5.4L)
-5.7 qt. (5.4L)
-4.3 qt. (4.1L)
Brake Fluid
-High Performance Dot 4
-High Performance Dot 4
-High Performance Dot 4
Engine Coolant
-Motorcraft Orange Coolant Prediluted
-Motorcraft Orange Coolant Prediluted
-Motorcraft Orange Coolant Prediluted
Automatic Transmission
-MERCON LV ATF
-MERCON LV ATF
-MERCON LV ATF
Rear Differential
-80W90
-80W90
-80W90
Transfer Case
-75W140 Synthetic
-75W140 Synthetic
-75W140 Synthetic

You can cross reference the following Purolator filter numbers for your own application:
Engine Size
-2.5L
-2.0L
-1.6L
Oil Filter
-L10241
-L10241
-L10241
Air Filter
-A26199
-A36149
-A36149
Cabin Filter
-C36174
-C36174
-C36174
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#13 Old 01-06-2014, 08:03 AM
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I've done oil changes on probably 10 different cars; I'd put the 1.6 in the middle in terms of difficulty. The most time consuming part is removing the cover. The filter is in a slightly ackward position, but it is removed easily with small filter pliers:



I have done MUCH worse.
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#14 Old 01-06-2014, 12:22 PM
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OK - good to know.


The guy in the video was using a strap wrench and seemed to be fighting his way through the hoses and pipes, and he could barely get the strap near or around the filter.
The special channel locks in your picture seem to be the far more appropriate tool to get the filter loose.

Dave K.

2014 1.6l Ruby Red SE
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#15 Old 01-06-2014, 04:03 PM
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The main hose in the way is very flexible so no problems. I've never been a fan of the traditional strap oil filter tools, especially not on this engine.
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#16 Old 01-06-2014, 04:04 PM
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I have only used the wrench to get the filter off, cause I felt and I had to do this where the oil filter was put on by Hercules, and I needed to crush the filter to get any grip to spin it off.
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#17 Old 05-17-2014, 08:55 PM
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Did my first oil change today on the 1.6 not bad to do...typical mess with a side mounted filter. A cup style filter wrench is needed to remove the filter but make sure it can be grabbed with an open end wrench on the backside, it's to tight to the fan shroud to put a ratchet wrench on it. I can see having a quick change place do the oil changes half of the bolts holding on the underside shield will be gone after a few oil changes

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#18 Old 05-26-2014, 06:52 PM
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I purchased a used 2013 SE 1.6L from Carmax 3 months ago with 9K on it. They said the previous owner told them that the oil had been changed at 7K so they did not change it. It now has 12K on it so I thought it would be a good time to change it.
Mike134 was right. After only 1 oil change the bottom shield was attached with only 6 torx head screws, and most of those were only hand tight. The 3 metric socket screws were missing. What do the metric socket screws look like and in which holes on the shield do they go in? Do they have fine or coarse threads? Suggestions on where to purchase them. I have looked in Advance Auto for the torx head screws but no exact matches.

There was a CarQuest filter on it, so I'm assuming the previous owner had the oil changed at CarQuest. I was able to get it off with a rubber glove, but I needed a breaker bar to get the oil pan drain plug off.
Taking the side mounted filter off is messy. There is quite a bit of oil left in the filter. Replaced the old filter with a Purolator L10241. A good wrench for the Puolator filter is the 76mm metal cap style wrench from Advance Auto. It's narrow and fits snug. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/p...+filter+wrench
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#19 Old 05-27-2014, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobP View Post
I purchased a used 2013 SE 1.6L from Carmax 3 months ago with 9K on it. They said the previous owner told them that the oil had been changed at 7K so they did not change it. It now has 12K on it so I thought it would be a good time to change it.
Mike134 was right. After only 1 oil change the bottom shield was attached with only 6 torx head screws, and most of those were only hand tight. The 3 metric socket screws were missing. What do the metric socket screws look like and in which holes on the shield do they go in? Do they have fine or coarse threads? Suggestions on where to purchase them. I have looked in Advance Auto for the torx head screws but no exact matches.

There was a CarQuest filter on it, so I'm assuming the previous owner had the oil changed at CarQuest. I was able to get it off with a rubber glove, but I needed a breaker bar to get the oil pan drain plug off.
Taking the side mounted filter off is messy. There is quite a bit of oil left in the filter. Replaced the old filter with a Purolator L10241. A good wrench for the Puolator filter is the 76mm metal cap style wrench from Advance Auto. It's narrow and fits snug. Performance Tools CP WRNCH 76MM,14FL W54106: Get the best Oil Filter Wrench at Advance Auto Parts
I tried to go back and edit this post but the Edit function was not there. There are 7 torx head screws and 2 -7mm socket head screws that hold the shield on.
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#20 Old 05-27-2014, 11:22 AM
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I tried changing it myself the 1st time but the oil filter was just too much of a pian for me. Then as someone else mentioned I found "The Works" oil change that Ford deos for only $40. That includes the oils change, checking & topping off all of your fluids, checking the battery, rotating your tires, and more that seemed like the best route for me. I prefer to change my own oil but for everything they do I just can't beat the price. Plus they save me a lot of time. They do all of that stuff far faster than I ever could.

2013 Escape SE AWD 1.6L
Sterling Gray Metallic
18" Verde Protocol chrome wheels
Nitto Motivo tires 235/50/R18
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