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post #11 of 21 Old 06-07-2013, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by _titanium_ View Post
Good info! I plan on doing a mild aftermarket audio build, do you think this battery would be okay or would you suggest an upgrade to a 6 cell battery?
What do you mean by 6-cell? All 12V lead acid batteries are 6-cell batteries. Lead acid batteries have a nominal 2V per cell.

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post #12 of 21 Old 06-09-2013, 02:31 PM
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^^^what he said plus one
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post #13 of 21 Old 06-10-2013, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _titanium_ View Post
Good info! I plan on doing a mild aftermarket audio build, do you think this battery would be okay or would you suggest an upgrade to a 6 cell battery?
stock battery should be fine.

Optima red is a popular option for a mild upgrade. more serious systems have gone for the yellow.
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post #14 of 21 Old 08-11-2014, 01:57 PM
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So I guess some good news I was chatting it up with my adviser the other day, and I did ask about the battery situation. He replied, just don't change it close to the inspection time. However, if you do change the battery the BCM will eventually fix itself and the battery fault, will correct itself and clear the fault.


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Hey, look. "Esc-a-pay". Hey, it's spelled just like escape


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post #15 of 21 Old 10-12-2014, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by nylyon View Post
Great question, got me thinking of what to do about jump starting the car too. I found this video on YouTube:
2013 Ford Escape battery location / Morries Minnetonka Ford - YouTube
Which shows where the battery is and how to jump start. From looking at it, I'll bet that you need to remove the air intake to get the battery out.
Thankful for this video. We found some hot wires coming out under the driver's at the back floor area in my my new/used 2013 Escape and were disappointed to find they were HOT! He put covers on them until we could get them removed. My car was a one owner commercial. I'd love to know who had it. The other day I noticed when the sun was shining on it down low on the driver's door you could tell it had some lettering like VA D... but I can't see it now that I'm looking. Apparently they just cut the wires and did not think it necessary to disconnect them from the battery. This video above helped us determine the extra wiring coming into the battery so we could remove it. People are slack!! urghhhh
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post #16 of 21 Old 07-09-2016, 10:09 PM
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Replaced my battery today. My neighbor has an Escape with a build date just 2 months from mine and his just up and died. I did not want to take any chances so I changed it. My factory battery was the BXT-96R-590. That's exactly what I put back in it. Bit of a job it was. Used FORScan to reset the BLMS. Biggest pain in the butt was reinitializing my global windows. For some reason they just didn't want to initialize. Finally took when I tried later. Don't forget to reset the window modules if your attempt fails. You have to kill the power totally to reset the modules before you try again. I just pulled the fuses from the rear junction box.

I'm still mystified at how some people have reported having their battery disconnected for days and when back up and running their windows were still initialized.

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post #17 of 21 Old 07-10-2016, 08:13 PM
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I replaced the battery today in a 2014 Escape, and yes, it's a 1 hour job. You have to remove the air filter box in front of the battery box, then there is a front panel on the battery box that comes off. After removing the positive cable and the battery hold down, slide the battery forward and remove the negative cable. That's a simplified version on how to do it. While battery replacement on 2013+ Escapes is a ****, It doesn't have to be done that often, and I will compliment Ford on their battery cable clamp design. A lot better than the old style and easy to loosen and tighten.
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post #18 of 21 Old 07-10-2016, 09:04 PM
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Here are a couple of videos that may be helpful:

Battery Replacement: 2013-2014 Ford Escape - 2013 Ford Escape SE 1.6L 4 Cyl. Turbo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34hXtxRjZSw

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post #19 of 21 Old 07-11-2016, 11:07 AM
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Does anyone know if the car's electronics automatically sense the installation of a new battery or is there something that needs to be "reset". What is it and how do I do that. If I take the car to a non Ford dealer for a new battery will they know to do that?

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post #20 of 21 Old 07-11-2016, 11:24 AM
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The battery Lifetime monitoring system should be reset when the battery is changed. I don't know of any over the counter OBD II tools that can reset the BLM system. I paid Ford to reset mine.

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