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post #21 of 145 Old 02-22-2013, 06:17 PM
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Great write-up and it will help many!! I have always used Mobile 1 on my cars and change it around 6k - 7k. Another key is always use a good quality filter that has an anti-drainback valve to help avoid dry strart ups.

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post #22 of 145 Old 02-26-2013, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by gerkebi View Post
You could go ahead and change it now, since it's the first oil change. I got tired of waiting for the oil change notice to come on as well. Especially with the first change, it's better to be safe than sorry!
Thanks. I really was curious to see when it came on but we are getting ready for a trip so I took your advice and changed it last night. Procedure for the 1.6L is the same, but I will admit snaking the oil filter out was tricky. I guess I am used to the wide-open spaces of my 4.3 Mustang.

I torqued the drain plug to 220 in-lbs which is the usual spec for an aluminum oil pan.
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post #23 of 145 Old 03-01-2013, 07:17 PM
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that's how i did mine just one thing i all ways pop a hole in the filter to drain it and put oil in the new filter before putting it back on, i changed it at 850 miles it had a funny looking green tint to it, i will change it at 1600 then let it roll 5or6k and use the motorcraft synthetic blend and filter i have loged500k useing it so i think i will keep on it
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post #24 of 145 Old 03-03-2013, 12:26 PM
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I always fill my filter too but the oil filter on the smaller engine is horizontal so some of the oil will drain out when installing. And since you have to really twist it to snake it up into place you end up rotating it 360 degrees.
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post #25 of 145 Old 03-06-2013, 11:11 AM
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Thanks for the information. 6 quarters is not bad.

Is anyone running synthetic?

Or Ford putting synthetic in the car from the factory? Does anyone know?
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post #26 of 145 Old 03-06-2013, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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They come from Ford with a synthetic blend. I am running full synthetic.
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post #27 of 145 Old 03-07-2013, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by gerkebi View Post
Here's a step by step for beginners. I recommend working with a warm engine to get the particles suspended in the oil and to let the oil flow freely.

1. Put the car up on either ramps or jack stands in the front. NEVER work under a car supported only by a jack. Set the emergency brake.

2. The shield under the car is removed by removing seven torx bolts and two 7mm bolts. Start from the back. The shield has a couple of tabs towards the back that will hold it in place until you get to the front. When you get the last bolt out, slide the shield forward to release it from the tabs. Put it aside.

3. Open the hood and remove the oil filler cap.

4. Place a pan or bucket under the oil drain plug. Remove the 15mm oil drain plug. Loosen it with a wrench and then remove it by hand. I recommend wearing latex gloves.

5. The oil filter is readily accessible. Place a small pan under the filter. Remove it either with an oil filter wrench or a strap.

6. Let all the oil drain out for a few minutes. While it is draining, coat the rubber gasket on the filter with new oil. Then spin the new filter on being careful not to over tighten. I like those Purolater Gold filters because they have a rough coating on them that makes it easy to hand tighten. I give it a little extra tug with the strap but not too much! Some folks recommend filling the filter with new oil before putting it on.

7. When the oil stops draining, clean off the drain plug with a rag and put it back in. Tighten it up.

8. Put in about 5-1/2 quarts of new oil. I used 5w-30w full synthetic.

9. Start the engine while it is on the ramps and look for drips. Turn off the engine.

10. Put the shield back on by sliding it over the tabs in back and start in the front replacing the torx bolts. Replace all the bolts.

11. Start the car and back it off the ramps.

12. Finish filling the new oil until the dipstick measures just below the max mark. It will take 5.7 quarts, or as one person noted it may take closer to 6.

13. Reset the oil life indicator by turning the ignition on but do not start the engine. Press the brake pedal and accelerator pedal fully to the floor. In three seconds the oil life reset notice will appear in your info screen. Keep both pedals fully pressed for about 25 seconds (I know this seems counter intuitive but you will not flood the engine) until the screen says the reset is complete. Turn off the ignition.

14. Light a cigar and admire your work!

It is illegal to dump your oil on your own, so take it to Advance Auto or some other recycler in gallon jugs or whatever.

Can you provide this type of explanation for the Cabin Air filter? That would be great.


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post #28 of 145 Old 03-07-2013, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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At the start of this post, I changed my oil at 3900 miles to Mobile 1. I just checked my oil at 5700 miles and the oil consumption is very little. I would estimate it dropped between 1/16 and 1/8 inch. I believe my engine was broken in nicely at 3900 miles.
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post #29 of 145 Old 03-08-2013, 01:51 PM
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gerkebi you should take photos and write a "how to change oil on the escape" the next time you change your oil. It would be very helpful to those who are not as mechanically inclined.
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post #30 of 145 Old 03-08-2013, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by mnlauzon View Post
gerkebi you should take photos and write a "how to change oil on the escape" the next time you change your oil. It would be very helpful to those who are not as mechanically inclined.
Photos are in posts #13-18.
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