2013+ Ford Escape Forum banner

Both front wipers go out at the same time

67K views 27 replies 8 participants last post by  mm19millertime  
#1 ·
I have a 2013 SE with the ecoboost 2.0. The driver's side wiper will go up once,get stuck, and not come down. The passenger side motor won't do anything. Both motors started this at the same time which gives me a feeling that it's not the motors themselves (wishful thinking?). I replaced the fuse even though it didn't look blown (50 amp iirc) but that didn't do anything. I removed each motor to try and put a multimeter to them but i couldn't get a consistent reading. I want to try a switch before i go replacing both motors. Anyone with any experience with this, either the wipers freaking out like that or replacing the switch, i would greatly appreciate some helpful advice or insight. I can't even find any info on how i would go about replacing the switch and the thought of buying ford oem makes my wallet cry (especially for the motors).
 
#2 ·
#3 ·
If @atlcarl69's good suggestion doesn't help and you have a code reader, look for a DTC "B1xxx : xx" and post it here - there's a double-handful of those listed in the Workshop Manual relating to the wiper system diagnostics.

I'll be glad to look it up and reply with the info if that'll help..... might at least steer between motor(s), switch or BCM communications, all which relate to the system.
 
#4 ·
First off,sorry for taking so long to respond after you guys were so willing to help me that day. A bout of sickness had been going through my family. So I tried @altcarl69 's suggestion and it was unfortunately unsuccessful. After testing with the arms off,properly aligning and reattaching the wiper arms(i never would have noticed that little H on my own),now neither wiper moves at all when i push the control stalk. @centex I would very much like to try your suggestion but at the moment i don't have access to an obd code checker. My dad has one but he won't be passing through till next week. If I were to take it to Autozone/Advance Auto do i just need to ask them for any codes that come up that start with B1? Also will the codes flash even though i don't currently have an kind of check engine or error messages showing? Thanks again for all your help and insight.
 
#5 ·
Sure, just get Autozone to check for codes and write down any/ALL that they happen to find and post the whole list.

FYI .... Per the workshop manual the driver-side motor is the 'master' ... it gets the basic instruction to 'work' from the BCM (body control module) and has it's own internal logic that then controls both the driver and passenger motors. So it sounds like a problem in the driver side motor could affect both sides .... but let's see if you've got any codes to help figure it out.

When you reply, also let us know if you have the 'rain sensing' option on your wipers (do yours come on automatically when it starts to rain or do you have to turn them on with the stalk control like I do).
 
#6 ·
Would wiper motor codes be displayed using a generic OBD2 scanner- or do places like Autozone have more advanced scanners?
 
#7 ·
I suppose that if the code reader is limited to "Generic" (upper-case "G" as in the OBD code term of art) codes for some reason it wouldn't display an "Enhanced" / Manufacturer Specific code (?) I've never seen such (a code reader that only displays "P0" ("Generic") codes, but I suppose such could exist.

I use a 'generic' (lower-case "g", as in commonly available) stand-alone hand-held code reader and it displays all codes issued by the OBD2 port, both 'set' (DTCs) and 'pending', as well as freeze frames, same as my local AutoZone's hand-held reader.

Even if the reader's internal database doesn't have the info to 'title' the Enhanced / Manufacturer-Specific Code (I've had that happen), it shows the OBD2-issued code ID prefix and number on the display. Then you just gotta find a separate source for the code title and diagnostic info (what I'm offering to try to do for the OP).
 
#8 ·
Wiper Motor Initialization for my 2013:

WARNING: Before beginning any service procedure in this section, refer to Safety Warnings in Section 100-00 . Failure to follow this instruction may result in serious personal injury.
NOTICE: Do not set the ignition to OFF during the procedure. Setting the ignition to OFF causes the wiper motors to accept the current windshield wiper arms position as the initialized position.
NOTE: Low battery voltage may prevent the BCM from entering Learn Mode.
NOTE: If the FCDIM displays Low Battery Audio Off or the FDIM displays Battery Saver System Off, start the vehicle and set the ignition to OFF to reset the BCM .
NOTE: Make sure the windshield is clean and dry before carrying out this procedure.

1 Ignition ON.
2 Cycle the windshield wipers on and then off. Make sure the windshield wiper arms park in the correct position.
3 Using a scan tool, place the windshield wiper motors in Learn Mode using the WMM Calibration.
4 Press the wiper and washer lever arm down 3 times within 5 seconds. The windshield wiper arms move to a preset or pre-initialization position.
5 NOTICE: If the wiper arms are pulled closer to the A-pillar than the specified distance during this step, do not attempt to move the wiper arms back toward the pre-initialization position manually. Damage to the wiper motor can occur.
NOTE: Pre-initialization can be reset by selecting INTERMITTENT on the wiper/washer switch and then selecting OFF.
Gently pull the windshield wiper blades out toward the A-pillar moulding until the distance between the wiper arm and the A-pillar moulding is 41.5 mm (1.63 in).
6 Press the wiper and washer lever arm down 1 time. This sets the current windshield wiper arm position as the approved position and the wiper arms move back to the PARK position.
7 Using the scan tool, finish the WMM Calibration by placing the windshield wiper motors in Normal Mode.
8 Carry out a low speed windshield wipe and make sure the windshield wiper motors and arms park in the correct position.
9 Carry out a high speed windshield wipe on a wet windshield and make sure the wiper blades do not contact the A-pillar.
 
#10 ·
Could you get the motors to work with the wiper arms removed? Given both motors are affected it does suggest (like you said) that perhaps it's something common to both rather than both motors. Apart from checking all the electrical connector for dirty contacts I'm not sure what else you could do. If you had a lap top and OBD2 interface you could try FoCCCus and do the wiper alignment procedure. You'd also be able to use ForScan and check for Ford specific fault codes.

PS: One thing to be careful of is to make sure the motors have properly parked at the lowest point before reattaching the arms. If you don't, the motors will try and move down to the park position when you turn the ignition back on, forcing the wipers to run off the bottom of the screen......
 
#11 ·
I don't have a laptop or any sort of obd to usb interface. The motors do not work at all with the wiper arms removed. The driver's side did make one half rotation and get stuck at the top before i removed and reinserted the motors to check out them and the electrical leads. Since reinserting the motors and and wiper arms,both blades now do absolutely nothing and don't even make a sound when i engage the switch. Went up to the local ford dealership today and they want $100 just to look at it. I'm planning on removing the motors and having a really good look at them at the kitchen table after my kid goes to bed.
 
#12 ·
This link should start a download for the windscreen wiper circuit diagram for a 2013 Escape 2.0l EcoBoost. (Parent site here)

(My quick take on what's going on.....)

The control signal (LIN) comes from the BCM and enters the LH wiper motor on pin 4 (white wire), it then communicates with the RH wiper via a white/ orange stripe wire on pin 3 of both motors. Given the fault is common for both motors, it would make sense to start fault finding at (or before) the LH motor. That also leaves the BCM and SASM (Steering Angle Sensor Module- which the wiper switch communicates with the BCM through.) It all appears to be controlled via a serial data bus- even the motors themselves. That also means you're not dealing with just a basic DC motor when you're checking the wiper motors- they've got some sort of logic circuit inside them to decode the serial data.

If you want to fix it yourself spend the money and buy an OBD2 interface so you can utilise FoCCCus and ForScan (search the FoCCCus thread for which interfaces work best.) I wouldn't be surprised if you've got some Ford specific codes logged already - something most generic OBD2 scanners won't read as the OBD2 standard is focussed more on the drive train side of things. Perhaps someone on here lives near you and can help?
 
#13 ·
Considering the evolution of the problem and building on what @murcod has posted above (which IMHO is a good general description of the system overview) ....

The root problem could lie anywhere between and including the wiper switch on the steering column, the BCM, the SASM, the left (master) wiper motor assembly and/or any of the interconnecting wiring including various power feeds.

The vast majority of the wiper system DTC's are used to guide specific further diagnostics tests ("pinpoint tests") intended to reveal the specific component or control logic failure causing the problem. While some DTC's point to a specific 'component replacement corrective action', most point to a likely trouble-spot with further tests using the Ford Diagnostics Tool to refine the problem identification and thence finally to a corrective action.

The 'magic' of the Ford Diagnostics Tool is that it serves both to provide electrical circuit/signal testing capabilities similar to a high-quality multimeter + oscilloscope and to interpret and report computer logic signals in a way useful to solving problems on Ford vehicles specifically. It's worth noting that this tool, which is far from inexpensive, is available to independent shops as well as Ford dealers.

In plain English: Even with Focccus and/or Forscan, lacking the further capabilities of Ford Diagnostics Tools to run pinpoint tests, IMHO it's unlikely that you'll be able to efficiently or effectively diagnose the root problem. IMHO you'd still be left with hopeful 'parts swapping' with a certain degree of hit-or-miss success (and the potential wasted expense that goes with that).

This is, unfortunately, a side-effect of cars using sophisticated logic control for these systems rather than 'old fashioned' electro-mechanical systems; that makes it very difficult for even very competent mechanics to diagnose and solve such problems efficiently with 'traditional' tools.

IMHO this is a case where a Ford dealer or an independent shop using Ford Diagnostics tools or their equivalent, applying the trouble shooting procedures applicable to this system, may well yield your most cost-effective solution. You are not 'captive' to Ford dealers** ... there are independent shops that have equivalent capabilities and may offer more competitively-priced services than a dealer.

**Though IF you have any potential Ford warranty coverage, only work by a dealer can provide that.
 
#14 ·
In plain English: Even with Focccus and/or Forscan, lacking the further capabilities of Ford Diagnostics Tools to run pinpoint tests, IMHO it's unlikely that you'll be able to efficiently or effectively diagnose the root problem. IMHO you'd still be left with hopeful 'parts swapping' with a certain degree of hit-or-miss success (and the potential wasted expense that goes with that).
I totally agree. However, if dealers in the US are like here in Australia, they'll also be doing the parts swapping to fault find- at your expense! So I'm guessing the $100 is just to read the DTC's? Then you've got hourly labour for fault finding- very expensive if it's anything like the rates here.

An OBD2 interface that will work sufficiently for the task is cheap and the software is free. Access to decode the relevant system's DTC's and further fault finding hints from the Ford Workshop manual can also be found for free. Ajandruzzi obviously is comfortable with DIY work (given the wiper motors have already been removed/ tested) so it's just the next step if DIY is the chosen path. Used parts from a written off Escape can also be utilised and should be substantially cheaper.

(The OBD2 interface can be used in the future for other vehicles, so it's an investment rather than money wasted.)
 
#16 · (Edited)
One of the things I am getting from this thread and the OP is that it seems like all of the testing done to the motors/circuits is quite old school. eg putting +12v volt to a pin and ground to another pin and seeing if the motors do anything. These motors have microprocessors inside their casings so these tests would not only be ineffective, they might actually damage/destroy the microprocessors or associated circuits.

Certainly some DIY diagnostics are possible, but only when equipped with the shop manual diagnostic guides and proper tools (including the OBD2 code reader/programmer) before one even attempts them.

Any missteps without the proper tools and information could render a situation originally needing only a relearn into an expensive removal and replacement of the motors.

Just saying forewarned is forearmed.

To the OP, I do hope you get this resolved, and please let us know as much as you can about the final diagnosis and steps taken for the repairs, as this knowledge can only help other members of the forum.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 67RS and centex
#17 ·
So i FINALLY got the opportunity to get those motors inside on my work table and disassemble them. I'm kicking myself for not taking pictures to post on here. So each motor has a circuit board attached to the black hard plastic plate with the wire connector. When i removed the black plate from the driver's side motor, i noticed what at first looked like a deep orange scorching on the board. Upon closer inspection it was a sticky substance (my guess is overheated grease from the motor gears) that i was able to (mostly) remove with a microfiber cloth and a little rubbing alcohol. I reinserted both motors and as soon as i started the car up, both wipers started going crazy. Not quite there yet but at least there is life! I'll update and let you know if i was successfully able to realign the wipers now that they're working.

Btw, I did purchase an OB2 to usb cable that's elm327 compliant (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6VMH6W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) but i have been unable to get FoCCCus working (even after an hour ironing out driver issues) . Forscan works so I'm going to try and use that to initiate the wiper motor recalibration.
 
#22 ·
Btw, I did purchase an OB2 to usb cable that's elm327 compliant (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6VMH6W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) but i have been unable to get FoCCCus working (even after an hour ironing out driver issues) . Forscan works so I'm going to try and use that to initiate the wiper motor recalibration.
Does that interface has the switch modification to allow reading Ford's Medium Speed Bus? If it hasn't, you won't be able to read all the systems. See here FORScan forum ? View topic - How to access MS CAN bus using FORScanV2 and modified ELM327

ForScan seems to be a lot more tolerant of the interface used- I even got a ~10yr old ELM327 V1.3 working with it on the high speed bus.
 
#19 ·
Cleaned the windshield real good and went through the realignment process in forscan (awesome freakin program btw) and everything is good as new. I'm still not completely sure what that orange,caramelized substance was (best guess is some of the gear lubricant/grease that got overheated) but cleaning that off the board seemed to do the trick. The orange substance was not on the passenger side motor circuit board. Thank you everyone for being so helpful and welcoming. Really feels like a community here. If anyone has any follow up questions or you feel i glossed over anything please let me know. I'm still kicking myself for not taking pictures of the board before i cleaned it.
 
#23 ·
Now that you mention it, I do remember reading somewhere about "if your cable has the switch" or something like that. Guess i just hoped that was set by the system with my cable. Dang. I did trying and mess with the baud rate and com settings but couldn't get it to sync(hehehehehe). Now I probably know why. I'll keep messing with it next time i can borrow a laptop but forscan was still really cool!
 
#24 ·
Have a play around with what you've got and see if you require anything better- or add the switch yourself. At the moment you'll be missing the info for the systems on the MS bus. I can't remember off the top of my head which systems are on that bus?

There's a long thread on here about FoCCCus and the trials and tribulations on finding OBD2 interfaces that work.

PS: Well done on fixing it yourself! I didn't realise the wiper alignment was in ForScan- I did it on mine with FoCCCus.
 
#25 ·
@ajandruzzi , following on David's "add the switch yourself" mention .... long before commercial 'switched' ELM's were popular on the market that's what I did on my ancient Chinese clone ELM following the schematic here

ELMConfig - Enable/Disable Ford ECU Functions - James Simpson

It works great to provide both HS and MS bus functions with both Focccus and FORScan on my '14 Escape so should work similarly for your '13.

IMHO for our '13 & '14 models, if your ELM is working with FORScan it should work with Focccus also. Just be aware it's pretty well established that Focccus is a bit wonky compared to FORScan - don't be surprised if it 'hangs' and requires repeated attempts to complete an upload.

If you're having problems with Focccus 0.8.6 you might try rev 0.8.5 to see if it behaves better.