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Might as well post it here. Haven’t seen a single member with the 2.0 post any coolant problems, yet. Knock on wood.

3/30/2018 6275 - 2015-2018 Various Vehicles - 2.0L EcoBoost - Engine Runs Rough With Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304 And/Or P0316
Some 2015-2018 Fusion/MKZ/MKC/Escape/Edge vehicles equipped with a 2.0L EcoBoost engine may exhibit a runs rough condition with DTCs P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304 and/or P0316. This may be due to coolant intrusion due to corrosion on the engine block. To diagnose this concern, with the engine at normal operating temperature, pressurize the cooling system to 138 kPa (20 psi) and hold for 5 hours. If the coolant pressure drops 27.57 kPa (4psi), remove the spark plugs and inspect for coolant in the cylinders. If coolant is found in any of the cylinders, replace the engine long block assembly. Follow normal prior approval process for your Dealership. However, follow the diagnostic repair procedure in this article to determine correct repair. For claiming, use causal part 6006 and applicable labor operations in Section 6 of the SLTS Manual.
 

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Any idea if this, like many TSB, is 'covered' during the 5yr/60,000 mile powertrain warranty (or longer ESP term), but borne by the owner if beyond that?

Or, is there indication of some extended coverage?

Knocking on wood along with you.
 

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I wonder what the real cause of failure is...Bad coolant, bad head gasket, bad block, poor assembly..??? Seems too random to pin down....
 

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Since it's not a recall I'd suspect that it would only be covered under the usual powertrain warranty. Very interested to read more about this, but not much seems to be out there yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Right now all I know is what you folks have read in my original post. Beyond that,what is worrisome is that issues are cropping up across parts of Fords lineup relating to ecoboost engines. Maybe some of you saw my post asking @markboris about his RS. He was one of the early folks to purchase one and it seems the early builds are having head gasket/coolant leak issues. No reason to panic, but due diligence in finding the facts is in order.

Back to real world testing, my Escape has over 115,000 miles on her. I have done one drain and fill of the coolant at around 75,000 miles. Going to do another this spring. I have never had an overheat issue. Only thing I noticed is after my drain and fill I would keep topping the reservoir off and i would notice the level ends up a little less than the minimum line. I chalked it up to the system self-leveling out and draining from the overflow what it doesn’t need after self-burping. All this per the workshop manual.

And to note, as far as I know, no members of this forum with the 2.0 have reported issues. That’s a good sign.
 

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Right now all I know is what you folks have read in my original post. Beyond that,what is worrisome is that issues are cropping up across parts of Fords lineup relating to ecoboost engines. Maybe some of you saw my post asking @markboris about his RS. He was one of the early folks to purchase one and it seems the early builds are having head gasket/coolant leak issues. No reason to panic, but due diligence in finding the facts is in order.

Back to real world testing, my Escape has over 115,000 miles on her. I have done one drain and fill of the coolant at around 75,000 miles. Going to do another this spring. I have never had an overheat issue. Only thing I noticed is after my drain and fill I would keep topping the reservoir off and i would notice the level ends up a little less than the minimum line. I chalked it up to the system self-leveling out and draining from the overflow what it doesn’t need after self-burping. All this per the workshop manual.

And to note, as far as I know, no members of this forum with the 2.0 have reported issues. That’s a good sign.
When you did your coolant change, where did you drain it from??.. When underneath I couldn't see a radiator drain or engine block drain plug....Did you use OEM coolant or the best aftermarket you could get?? Thanks......
 

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Discussion Starter #8
When you did your coolant change, where did you drain it from??.. When underneath I couldn't see a radiator drain or engine block drain plug....Did you use OEM coolant or the best aftermarket you could get?? Thanks......
Not sure about your model year,but on I’m the radiator peacock was located on the drivers side right bottom corner of the radiator. OEM coolant all the way since is wasn’t a flush.
 

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Not sure about your model year,but on I’m the radiator peacock was located on the drivers side right bottom corner of the radiator. OEM coolant all the way since is wasn’t a flush.
Thanks, don't think I looked on the drivers side, most I done always on passengers side of radiator.
 

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This is what happened to my engine. Running rough and on the 3rd trip in the dealership finally contacted Ford and were told to run the test described above. This led to replacing the block with a remanufactured one on a vehicle with 33,000 miles that is 18 months old.

Needless to say, my Ford fandom is pretty much dead at this point.
 

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This is what happened to my engine. Running rough and on the 3rd trip in the dealership finally contacted Ford and were told to run the test described above. This led to replacing the block with a remanufactured one on a vehicle with 33,000 miles that is 18 months old.

Needless to say, my Ford fandom is pretty much dead at this point.
Did they give you any reason why this problem occurs??..Manufacturing defect of block, assembled incorrectly, bad coolant, any clue??..Did you ask why they gave you a remanufactured one instead of a new one??
 

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aren't the 2016 and under and 2017 and over 2.0L engines totally different?
Yes, that was what I was thinking. It seems to include the "all new" twin scroll turbo version.
 

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Did they give you any reason why this problem occurs??..Manufacturing defect of block, assembled incorrectly, bad coolant, any clue??..Did you ask why they gave you a remanufactured one instead of a new one??
They weren’t specific but indicated it was probably manufacturing (porosity in the block allowing coolant to seep through?). I didn’t know it was a remanufactured block until I picked it up and looked at the paperwork.
 

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To my knowledge they only replace with a brand-new engine if the vehicle is within 12 months/12,000 miles of the initial in-service date.

Which, IMHO, doesn't matter for anything. A well rebuilt engine is functionally identical to a brand-new one. I'd have every bit as much confidence in a rebuilt engine as one straight out of the factory.
 

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Thanks Tinman, At least now we have some idea what the problem could be..Poor block manufacturing...Now is it where the blocks were made, if there's more than one..??
 

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Good question. One of the reasons I had to wait is because there were some in front of me.

Do you know your date of manufacture ? Better yet, if you look on your passenger side on the engine block or head, there should be a tag with place of manufacture and date....Oh, forgot they just replaced it, take a look anyway either way...
 

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Do you know your date of manufacture ? Better yet, if you look on your passenger side on the engine block or head, there should be a tag with place of manufacture and date....Oh, forgot they just replaced it, take a look anyway either way...
Sorry, but I can't. I don't have the vehicle any longer.
 
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