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I read a lot in this forum about the coolant problems. Surprised how little help the Ford dealers seem to provide as was my experience with 2 dealers as well. I think they suspect the severity of the problem and the cost to resolve and don't want to be the bearer of bad news.

I was surprised the cylinder pressure was the same between 2 and 3. I even bought an endoscope to look in the cylinders and couldn't see a whole lot of difference. These days it only gets run locally which is about 3000mi/year. At the current rate that's about 30 cups of coolant (2 gallons). Been dealing with it so far. Mostly a pain going out in a cold garage to check on it periodically.
 
I read a lot in this forum about the coolant problems. Surprised how little help the Ford dealers seem to provide as was my experience with 2 dealers as well. I think they suspect the severity of the problem and the cost to resolve and don't want to be the bearer of bad news.

I was surprised the cylinder pressure was the same between 2 and 3. I even bought an endoscope to look in the cylinders and couldn't see a whole lot of difference. These days it only gets run locally which is about 3000mi/year. At the current rate that's about 30 cups of coolant (2 gallons). Been dealing with it so far. Mostly a pain going out in a cold garage to check on it periodically.
I merged your thread with the existing thread on this issue. List of information here that may help you.
 
My wife's Escape was bought new and has had excellent care since purchased (40k miles now). The heater started working very poorly in Feb 2022 then stopped completely. One warm spring afternoon only a few miles from home the overheat alarm went off and we stopped immediately. Checked the coolant reservoir and was bone dry. Loosened the coolant cap and the reservoir filled itself back back up about half way. The temp gage went back to normal so we drove it home. Added coolant and found a youtube on how to "burp" the system by idling and adding coolant. The heater immediately started working and the car ran fine as always. Soon found I had to add about a cup of coolant about every 100miles. Had my dealer pressurize the system during an oil change and he found no visible leaks. Sometime weeks later an SES code came on with a cylinder 3 misfire. I removed cylinder 2 and 3 spark plugs and got 125psi on both cylinders and both plugs looked to be about the same condition. Took it to another Ford dealer who slightly overfilled the reservoir and marked it and had me come back after 100miles. Didn't trust me I guess. It was down about 1-2 inches and said that was normal and it would fill back up to his mark when it cooled. He didn't think I knew how that worked. Won't go there again. A couple times after setting for several days the car would start up very rough and quit. I figure the coolant caused the misfire. I sometimes smell a faint sweet order when 1st started. Other than that the car runs great (and the heater works). I don't want to trade the car and stick the problem with someone else. Been reading about the manifold/block leaks and I suspect its a fairly small leak. A garage said he could probably put a used engine in for around $4k but I no longer trust the 1.6L engine. Really want to try a sealant while the leak is small. Has anyone had success with the sealants.

Exactly same issues here on my 2014 Escape with 1.6L Ecoboost and 108k miles, over the last couple months adding coolant (more frequently than usual), and P0303 issue for cylinder 3 misfire. Coil and plug has already recently been replaced for cylinder 3 so I'm confident it's not a spark issue. Frequently at startup it's rough and burns coolant (can smell it). Restarting another time or two it usually clears up. Well, I was sure it was a coolant leak into the cylinder and I see now from all the similar posts about these engines it's a known common issue. While it's odd that it's not every startup, my take is the coolant gets pushed into the cylinder after sitting from the last time it was run, until the coolant system gets de-pressurized, and the rough start is while all that coolant that got pushed into the cylinders gets burned off. I could be wrong here, just a theory. Anyway, I checked the recall info for my build date and I'm not covered despite being the same engine with the coolant path between cylinders 2 and 3 at the top of the block compromising the gasket seal. I called a local dealer and they were quick to quote me $10k for a new engine swap, no sense in even tearing down or repairing. That's... not gonna happen. But what now?

@teepster49 What did you end up doing? Or does anyone have input on this? Seems like this should be a no-brainer for expanding a recall. We shouldn't need to rely on a warranty to cover known problems... right? 😨
 
Exactly same issues here on my 2014 Escape with 1.6L Ecoboost and 108k miles, over the last couple months adding coolant (more frequently than usual), and P0303 issue for cylinder 3 misfire. Coil and plug has already recently been replaced for cylinder 3 so I'm confident it's not a spark issue. Frequently at startup it's rough and burns coolant (can smell it). Restarting another time or two it usually clears up. Well, I was sure it was a coolant leak into the cylinder and I see now from all the similar posts about these engines it's a known common issue. While it's odd that it's not every startup, my take is the coolant gets pushed into the cylinder after sitting from the last time it was run, until the coolant system gets de-pressurized, and the rough start is while all that coolant that got pushed into the cylinders gets burned off. I could be wrong here, just a theory. Anyway, I checked the recall info for my build date and I'm not covered despite being the same engine with the coolant path between cylinders 2 and 3 at the top of the block compromising the gasket seal. I called a local dealer and they were quick to quote me $10k for a new engine swap, no sense in even tearing down or repairing. That's... not gonna happen. But what now?

@teepster49 What did you end up doing? Or does anyone have input on this? Seems like this should be a no-brainer for expanding a recall. We shouldn't need to rely on a warranty to cover known problems... right? 😨
Decided to just use the car around town and add coolant as needed. Visited several repair shops and didn't make sense to put money out for another untrustworthy 1.6L. I refuse to trade it and dump it on someone else. I found one highly regarded local shop who said he would replace the 1.6L engine for less than $4k until he found out it had a turbo. Its a slow coolant loss so I decided to deal with that but the 303 misfire will be a problem in NYS when inspection comes due this spring. I have a code reader so I can reset it. The SES lite just came on yesterday after more than 100miles since my last reset.
 
Exactly same issues here on my 2014 Escape with 1.6L Ecoboost and 108k miles, over the last couple months adding coolant (more frequently than usual), and P0303 issue for cylinder 3 misfire. Coil and plug has already recently been replaced for cylinder 3 so I'm confident it's not a spark issue. Frequently at startup it's rough and burns coolant (can smell it). Restarting another time or two it usually clears up. Well, I was sure it was a coolant leak into the cylinder and I see now from all the similar posts about these engines it's a known common issue. While it's odd that it's not every startup, my take is the coolant gets pushed into the cylinder after sitting from the last time it was run, until the coolant system gets de-pressurized, and the rough start is while all that coolant that got pushed into the cylinders gets burned off. I could be wrong here, just a theory. Anyway, I checked the recall info for my build date and I'm not covered despite being the same engine with the coolant path between cylinders 2 and 3 at the top of the block compromising the gasket seal. I called a local dealer and they were quick to quote me $10k for a new engine swap, no sense in even tearing down or repairing. That's... not gonna happen. But what now?

@teepster49 What did you end up doing? Or does anyone have input on this? Seems like this should be a no-brainer for expanding a recall. We shouldn't need to rely on a warranty to cover known problems... right? 😨
You may be correct on your theory about restarts and coolant burning off but sadly in both your case and @teepster49's case the issue will only get worse.
$10k is a ridiculous price for an engine swap based on the value of your car so I would be shopping around to see if it can be done cheaper by a reputable workshop somewhere. You may even be able to get the later model engine from a salvage vehicle somewhere to have fitted.
Also it may only be the block that you need to replace with the later modified one as that is the culprit here but I don't know whether there would be much difference in price compared to replacing the whole engine due to the work involved.
Ford have wiped their hands of it and it appears class actions on this matter have stalled unless someone knows better.
 
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Finally found my leak that has plagued me for months. Leaks during cool down but not when pressure tested.
It appears to resemble a bleed off type of circuit between the heater valve, heater core and engine. It connects the heater valve and heater core to the engine.

I have not found the exact one on any on line parts diagram. The leaking connection is directly above and to the left of the transmission cooler. I may have to resort to seeing the dealer to find the exact one.

View attachment 77959




Tasca Parts shows this as my replacement according to my VIN but it looks different. Very hard to reach the back of the motor to see where the added Tee connects to. I suppose that is why they used these "EZ connections" that leak.

Anyone else know about this replacement?

Is there an air bleed procedure after refilling coolant?

Any help is appreciated.

View attachment 77970 View attachment 77971
Thanks,

Bob
I know this is an old thread- pardon the re-entry point, but did anyone ever find out what part number the OP ended up using? I have the same hose, but the 3 way fitting appears to be what's failing. '13 1.6L SE / AWD
 
I did find this:
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But I am reading that Ford changed the design due to faulty quick connect fittings- it's unclear which one is the direct swap out though. I think the replacement hoses just have clamps at the end - but will this be ok to just fit overtop of the existing quick connect fitting areas??? I just called my local dealer and they said the PN for the most up to date part is CV6Z-18472-AB instead of -F.

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I'm buying the updated part and will repost with results.
 
I have a 2013 Ford Escape SE 1.6L GTDI. I have taken my car in to the dealership 3 different times for coolant loss. Ford customer service has been contacted and the dealership has tried all of the recommendations at this point. Ford is now telling me that they can see the coolant levels drop but, they can not find where it is going. Since they can't find where it is going then there isn't any issue with the car and it is "safe" to drive. The car has about 20,000 mile on it currently. I have had the vehicle in the shop for about 32 days now. This last time was 7 days in the shop with no solution. I was told that since Ford has can't find the leak there is no issue. I am wondering if anyone else is having the same issue with their Escape or am I just special. Thanks for any help.
i have the same issue with mine but my moms escape has over 110,000 miles on it
 
Hi I just bought a 2013 Ford Escape SE it drove fine the first four days then it overheated and I had to stop on the highway. I’m leaking coolant when I stop driving the top of the radiator is wet from the top view looking down into the engine and it’s leaking under the passenger side of the engine. Wondering where to start-replace the radiator? Replaces hoses? The water pump maybe?
 
What engine?
The 1.6L is known to develop cracks in the heater bypass valve, its right at the front of the engine about 1/4 of the way down from the top. I could see that spraying the radiator and blowing back.
No matter what I hope you didn't warp the head from overheating.
 
Hi I just bought a 2013 Ford Escape SE it drove fine the first four days then it overheated and I had to stop on the highway. I’m leaking coolant when I stop driving the top of the radiator is wet from the top view looking down into the engine and it’s leaking under the passenger side of the engine. Wondering where to start-replace the radiator? Replaces hoses? The water pump maybe?
I merged your thread with one of the existing f threads on this issue. Have a look at the other posts for some possible help.
 
Finally found my leak that has plagued me for months. Leaks during cool down but not when pressure tested. It appears to resemble a bleed off type of circuit between the heater valve, heater core and engine. It connects the heater valve and heater core to the engine. I have not found the exact one on any on line parts diagram. The leaking connection is directly above and to the left of the transmission cooler. I may have to resort to seeing the dealer to find the exact one. View attachment 77959 Tasca Parts shows this as my replacement according to my VIN but it looks different. Very hard to reach the back of the motor to see where the added Tee connects to. I suppose that is why they used these "EZ connections" that leak. Anyone else know about this replacement? Is there an air bleed procedure after refilling coolant? Any help is appreciated. View attachment 77970 View attachment 77971 Thanks, Bob
I am dealing with a radiator leak. Soon as you add antifreeze you look underneath the vehicle and past the front tires its leaking out. Off center but just a bit farther back than where the front tires on. This happens without the motor running. I can't find it
 
duke594, I want to take a look at your customer service case and see what's going on with your Escape. Will you please PM me your VIN or case number? Thanks! Ashley
My Ford escape is the same. The same dealership story. We know it's leaking but cannot find out where. Wow. It must work fine then ? Well anyone with common sense knows this is a lie. Cars are not supposed to leak fluid. That's why there are mechanics to fix issues. We replace our engine once. And two years later the same issues with new engine occured. Guess what Ford said. The same thing. Wtf.
 
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