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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey you guys. Planning to replace the idler pulley (bearing going bad), tensioner, and belts. Any chance someone knows the torque spec for the idler pulley? I want to make sure I get it on tight but not crush the bearing. Torque spec for the tensioner would be nice to know too but I'm not worried about messing up its bearing since the pulley comes installed on the unit. Thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I went ahead and got a 72 hr subscription to the motorcraft WSM:

Idler Pulley - 93 in-lb (10.5 Nm)
Tensioner - 18 lb-ft (25 Nm)

I had assumed the manual would give good instructions of how to attack the job but surprisingly it gives instructions like the engine is out of the car sitting in a stand:
  • Remove drive belt
  • Loosen bolt and remove idler pulley
  • Reverse to install
That's great and all but it looks pretty cramped - was hoping for some insight into how to get to this stuff. Maybe I'm missing something - or had unrealistic expectations. 馃榾
 

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I had assumed the manual would give good instructions of how to attack the job but surprisingly it gives instructions like the engine is out of the car sitting in a stand
There's a copy of the 2013 US Escape WSM floating around on the internet( - not on here as copyrighted material is banned.)

It's very vague and makes a lot of procedures (e.g. removing the front struts) sound super simple, when it isn't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ha. I'm worried about torque but there is no way to get a torque wrench on that bolt - its too close to the fender to get a ratchet in there. I'll have to use a box/open end to get it off. Maybe they make torque wrenches like that but I sure don't have one.
 

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10.5 and 25Nm isn't much torque. Perhaps just practice with your torque wrench and a normal spanner on a different bolt to get an idea of how tight it is. Then use the spanner. Some medium strength (blue) Loctite on the bolts would also be a good idea. (All the new Ford suspension bolts I've bought come with some on them.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok. Thanks. The more I look at it, the more I think the torque isn't going to matter like I was thinking it would. So I'm more optimistic that the TFAR method should be fine. I'll also mark/index the bolt head before I remove and track the turns to get it out. I doubt anyone is that interested but I'll still report back with how it goes. Hopefully I can get it done tomorrow evening or Sat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok so I got it done. Not too bad. Here are my comments/thoughts:
  • The Lisle stretch belt tool worked exactly like it was supposed to for the AC belt - both off and on. Although I could have just cut the old one off.
  • Releasing the tensioner turned out to be more difficult than I was expecting. Figured that would be the easy part. However, I couldn't get a ratchet into the square socket on the tensioner because its hits the tensioner support. I have a pretty thin ratchet and it was still too thick. A 13/16" open end would fit over the square tensioner socket but then there was no room to turn it at all. Ended up getting a flat circular knurled doohicky with a 3/8" drive that you'd use to turn a socket by hand. I was able to get that in the tensioner and then grab and turn that with channel locks. Seems like you need a 2" piece of square 3/8" shaft that you could put in the socket and then put an open end on that. I wonder what the Ford techs use.
  • The idler pulley pulley being noisy was the main reason for this job. Vehicle has 137k on it.
  • I used a ratcheting box end to get the idler pulley off. Not much room but doable. Tightened it back up based on feel - tried to get it back to the tightness I felt removing it. The pulley spun just fine once tightened up. I have a buddy who works for NAPA and he was able to look up some info on this in a Mitchell? manual. He said it shows removing the motor mount and lifting the motor slightly so you can get a torque wrench on it. Hopefully my TFAR method was good enough. Removing a motor mount seems like a pretty big hassle.
  • I replaced the tensioner too because why not. Apparently Ford changed this part. The one that came off has 3 support arms with bolts. The new one is basically the same but only has two support arms. I guess they decided that 3rd arm didn't add enough to warrant the extra material. I just put the 3rd bolt back in it's hole.
  • The belts that came off actually look pretty good. AC belt had maybe 1 small spot of missing rib. Serpentine had no missing rib spots. Didn't really look cracked either. I guess they've gotten pretty good at making belts.
Hope everybody has a great weekend!
 

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The Lisle stretch belt tool worked exactly like it was supposed to
That's a new tool I haven't seen before. It would beat risking getting your finger tips sandwiched. :)
 
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