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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there! I have a 2013 Escape SEL with the 1.6L engine. It's got 109,000 miles and had a new transmission put in at 80,000. Unfortunately, I have a new problem and I'd love some advice.

Last Tuesday I went to get gas and when I got in my car to turn it back on it wouldn't start. All the lights would illuminate when I opened the door and my key fob would work, but when I went to press the start button nothing would happen and my brake would seize up. I called AAA and they came out to jump the car. The headlights were still turning on and the screens inside the car were illuminated. The battery was fine but we couldn't get the car to start even with a jump. We tried remote starting and nothing. He disconnected and we just kept trying to turn the car on and after about 20 minutes the car started and ran for about 10 second before the engine cut out, but the battery stayed on. The engine had cut out but my AC kept running, radio kept playing etc. I went to try and turn the car completely off and the start stop button wasn't responding. AAA called a tow truck for me and left. I sat there for about 10 minutes and opened my door and the battery kept running. However, with the door open I was able to press the start button and the car turned off. I sat for an hour waiting for the tow truck and when they arrived the car started normally and they advised I drive to the dealer.

I dropped the car off at the dealer and explained the situation and they said they would look into it. On Wednesday they called and said that my vapor fuel valve would cause my car to not be able to start after fueling and that they also cleaned my fuel system. I explained that I didn't think it was a fuel related issue but we payed the $900 and I went on my way thinking my car was fine. I drove 35 miles to where I go to college and stopped at my house to grab a few things and when I came back out an hour later the car wouldn't start. The buttons would unlock, and the lights would illuminate but the car would start. I proceeded to attempt to remote start which would work but then the engine cut out and the battery remained on and would not shut off. I called the dealer and they sent a tow truck and two hours later when the truck arrived the car started.

Thursday the dealer had the car and said they were testing and it and everything was fine until my service advisor went to check the milage and experienced the issue I had been describing. They called on Friday and said the car has been starting as normal all day but that since they haven't figured out what caused the issue I had experienced twice and they had experienced once that they would keep it over they holiday weekend and check it again on Tuesday.

I called on Tuesday and they said they still hadn't figured out the problem and that I could come and get it since they are unsure of what to do. I picked the car up and asked if it happens again if I should bring it back since we spent $900 for them to fix the wrong part and they said I don't know what we will be able to do since we didn't find the issue, which wasn't a reassuring response. I drove it around a bit Tuesday night and all was well.

Today (Wednesday) I ran some errands and when I got home I went to shut my car off and when I opened the door SYNC remained playing music and would not shut off. I pressed the ignition and it would not respond. I closed the door and tried again and it shut off. I went to try and turn the car on and it was not responding and doing the same thing, unlocking via fob and the cloud SYNC images on the screens. Tried to jump the car just in case and it did not help. Called the dealer and complained that they gave me back an unsafe car and they are having me drive to the dealer in the morning to get a loaner while they attempt to troubleshoot.

I asked if they checked the starter, ignition, alternator and battery and they claimed they did but I'm not sure I believe them. If you knew this dealership you would probably think similarly. I'd appreciate any advice, especially if someone has had a similar experience.
 

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OMG...Did you fill your gas tank right to the top?
In any case if this problem started just after you filled your tank it certainly points to a vapor fuel valve issue. Do you know if they actually replaced it?
Many of the other issues may be related if they did not replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OMG...Did you fill your gas tank right to the top?
In any case if this problem started just after you filled your tank it certainly points to a vapor fuel valve issue. Do you know if they actually replaced it?
Many of the other issues may be related if they did not replace it.
I filled my tank like 3/4 of the way. They listed my complaint as "hard start after fueling" and then replaced the vapor fuel valve and cleaned my fuel system. But now it's happened 3 more times since they repaired it and I haven't fueled since. We know an engineer with GM and they suggested it's an ignition switch issue which is causing the car to get confused as to what state it is in and not turn off or cause the engine to cut out. Not sure though, it could be anything in this awful cursed car.
 

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Sunset 2014 Escape Ti 2.0 Persian Green 2020 Escape Ti Hybrid
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Few questions...
1) Have you got a Qi wireless charge cell phone mount in the car? There have been reports of those putting out enough RF to cause problems.
2) Have you tried a different remote?
3) How old is the battery in the remote?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Few questions...
1) Have you got a Qi wireless charge cell phone mount in the car? There have been reports of those putting out enough RF to cause problems.
2) Have you tried a different remote?
3) How old is the battery in the remote?
1. I have a charger but I unplug it every time I get out now since I got my battery replaced a month ago for an unexplained die.
2. I tried a different key and even changed the battery and it doesn’t affect the issue.
3. the battery in the remote is maybe 2 years old? Haven’t gotten any low battery or key not detected notifications.

It’s a strange intermittent issue that the dealer can’t seem to pinpoint, hopefully tomorrow they can get something tomorrow.
 

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My daughter's 2014 Escape Ti does not give a low battery warning for her key fobs (the 2014 Fusion that we had did).
Everything you describe could also be a problem on the data bus, so for a long shot ask if the checked the BMS sensor and connector when they changed the battery. If either of those is bad its been known to cause everything from wipers that go nuts to power rear hatches that won't open.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks! Ford reset the BMS and said they have checked everything related to it since that could be the cause. My car typically gives a low key fob battery notification, but I went ahead and changed it anyways!
 

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I was referring to did they check it or it's connector for corrosion.
The only way it can be checked is by pulling the upper and lower cowl assemblies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was referring to did they check it or it's connector for corrosion.
The only way it can be checked is by pulling the upper and lower cowl assemblies.
Oh, sorry. Today they were able to figure out the culprit of the issue. They said the 50 amp fuse on the battery box was shot and that is what was causing intermittent issues with power. I'm glad it is finally resolved and not something more serious.
 

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Wow, so they made you pay $900.00 for something you did not need.
That's why I refuse to let dealers even put air on my tires.
I recommend you find a reputable, local shop. I'm lucky that i have one close by, and they tackle whatever I can't.
Good luck
 
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