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Hello, first post here. Our Escape has about 41,000 miles on it now. Bought it brand new. Right before the bumper-bumper warranty ran out we had it in service for an idle stumble issue that started around 30,000 miles. The idle will dip to about 500 RPM while sitting with the car in park, and sometimes while sitting still in Drive. They replaced spark plug boots, I believe that's all they did. Now its back to its old ways again. All the recalls have been done that we have received in the mail. Also the trans shifts hard sometimes, searching here it looks like there may be a TSB for that.

Just wondering if anyone has had this issue and what the remedy may have been.
 

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I have read about direct injection causing the intake valves to build up carbon. So whats the fix? And why aren't they catching it?
 

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the fix for the ecoboost is apparently to swap out the cylinder head with a new one.
for VW/Audi they blast the intake valves clean with walnut shells (no, i'm not kidding).

The best thing you can do is avoid having it happen in the first place. I use 94 octane exclusively and use full synthetic oil changed regularly.
I had my valves scoped to see how they looked at around the 60,000 km mark and they are clean.

You can try a few full tanks of 93/94 octane and go drive the beejeeesus out of it for a while (let it rev above 4 k accelerating from a stop). You can blow a remarkable amount of carbon out of it that way.
 

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the fix for the ecoboost is apparently to swap out the cylinder head with a new one.
for VW/Audi they blast the intake valves clean with walnut shells (no, i'm not kidding).

The best thing you can do is avoid having it happen in the first place. I use 94 octane exclusively and use full synthetic oil changed regularly.
I had my valves scoped to see how they looked at around the 60,000 km mark and they are clean.

You can try a few full tanks of 93/94 octane and go drive the beejeeesus out of it for a while (let it rev above 4 k accelerating from a stop). You can blow a remarkable amount of carbon out of it that way.

Hmmm....well I have a hard time believing that the frequency in which you changed your oil would matter on the intake valve unless the car was burning oil, which mine is not. The gas maybe, but I can have the wife put some 93 in it. She made a video on her phone of what its doing, she said it had already done it 4 times when she caught it on the 5th.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkTm4w61aLQ
 

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This could be lots of things from dirty injectors, a dirty engine air cleaner, dirty valves, dirty mass air flow sensor, etc..... But for the dealer to take the time to diagnose the problem is another story. Dealer should of been able to hook it up to the scan tool and watch in real time what is going on. I'm not really buying the dirty valve thing. Not at that mileage. But it is a good idea to do a hard acceleration every now and then. Just make sure your engine is completely warmed up, the hotter the better, to blow out carbon.
 

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This could be lots of things from dirty injectors, a dirty engine air cleaner, dirty valves, dirty mass air flow sensor, etc..... But for the dealer to take the time to diagnose the problem is another story. Dealer should of been able to hook it up to the scan tool and watch in real time what is going on. I'm not really buying the dirty valve thing. Not at that mileage. But it is a good idea to do a hard acceleration every now and then. Just make sure your engine is completely warmed up, the hotter the better, to blow out carbon.
It started doing it in the high 20,000 range, we just delt with it. Trying to find time to get it in for service is a pain. We figured we had better get it looked at before the 36,000 mile warranty ran out. It was gone for a while, now its back.
 

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the fix for the ecoboost is apparently to swap out the cylinder head with a new one.
for VW/Audi they blast the intake valves clean with walnut shells (no, i'm not kidding).

The best thing you can do is avoid having it happen in the first place. I use 94 octane exclusively and use full synthetic oil changed regularly.
I had my valves scoped to see how they looked at around the 60,000 km mark and they are clean.

You can try a few full tanks of 93/94 octane and go drive the beejeeesus out of it for a while (let it rev above 4 k accelerating from a stop). You can blow a remarkable amount of carbon out of it that way.
What would the octane have to do with it, also it is a direct injected engine.
 

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It started doing it in the high 20,000 range, we just delt with it. Trying to find time to get it in for service is a pain. We figured we had better get it looked at before the 36,000 mile warranty ran out. It was gone for a while, now its back.
You have 5 yr/60,000 mi powertrain, I would reach out to ford customer service on here for help.
 

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Has your car thrown a cel yet?

You can remove your intake manifold with 5 or 6 bolts and look into the intake runners and see your valves with a flashlight.

You can close the one you're working on and some shops just use a wire brush on a drill and clean them up, then vacuum the runner out.

If you are handy at all, I would check your own spark plugs. I would also suggest going 1 step colder plug. I did that to my dads 14' and he commented that it ran so much smoother. I would then suggest running 91+ non oxy fuel as well.

We don't have a maf, but we have a few map sensors and then a sensor at the intake. I would say you could check and clean those. One is on the intake manifold, on on the passenger side of the intercooler and then the intake sensor to the left of the air box. The intake itself get a lot of oil running through it so if those sensors get covered then j can see it not being able to meter properly.
 

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It started doing it in the high 20,000 range, we just delt with it. Trying to find time to get it in for service is a pain. We figured we had better get it looked at before the 36,000 mile warranty ran out. It was gone for a while, now its back.
Hi 96lt4c4,

Have you been back to your dealer since it returned? Please let me know, along with your updated mileage.

You have 5 yr/60,000 mi powertrain, I would reach out to ford customer service on here for help.
Thanks, SteveTurbo!

Meagan
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Has your car thrown a cel yet?

You can remove your intake manifold with 5 or 6 bolts and look into the intake runners and see your valves with a flashlight.

You can close the one you're working on and some shops just use a wire brush on a drill and clean them up, then vacuum the runner out.

If you are handy at all, I would check your own spark plugs. I would also suggest going 1 step colder plug. I did that to my dads 14' and he commented that it ran so much smoother. I would then suggest running 91+ non oxy fuel as well.

We don't have a maf, but we have a few map sensors and then a sensor at the intake. I would say you could check and clean those. One is on the intake manifold, on on the passenger side of the intercooler and then the intake sensor to the left of the air box. The intake itself get a lot of oil running through it so if those sensors get covered then j can see it not being able to meter properly.
It has never thrown a code. When we had it in to the dealer they said there was a misfire code. I kind of find that hard to believe because a misfire code should have set the CEL. I do EFI tuning on the side so, I could have hooked to it and checked, but I didn't want to touch it and take a chance on voiding the warranty. What plugs did you put in? And what did you gap them at? I know the gaps should be a little tighter on boosted engines. I have a turbo charged small block chevy 383 and run the pugs at about .029.
 

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Also you should try top tier gasoline. Top Tier Gasoline These brands have more detergent additives than required by the EPA, and can help keep your fuel system clean. My son fixed the idle stumble on his Cadillac CTS (took several months) by switching to top tier gas exclusively.
 

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Ok, so we finally made time to get the Escape in the shop. Conway Heaton Ford in Bardstown KY. The Escape went in for a recall, transmission randomly shifting hard and the idle stumble. They completed the recall and told us that there were computer updates for the transmission and for the rough idle. So, $40.00 later the car comes home and now we have an idle stumble in park and in drive. just got off the phone with the wife, she took it by the dealership. They told her "They can do crazy things, when its cold outside". She made an appointment for next Tuesday. This will be the 3rd time in for this same issue. The car has just a little over 40,000 miles on it. Just like all the other times, there are no MIL or CEL lights on.

We also switched to 93 Octane fuel. Didn't help.
 

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Ok, so we finally made time to get the Escape in the shop. Conway Heaton Ford in Bardstown KY. The Escape went in for a recall, transmission randomly shifting hard and the idle stumble. They completed the recall and told us that there were computer updates for the transmission and for the rough idle. So, $40.00 later the car comes home and now we have an idle stumble in park and in drive. just got off the phone with the wife, she took it by the dealership. They told her "They can do crazy things, when its cold outside". She made an appointment for next Tuesday. This will be the 3rd time in for this same issue. The car has just a little over 40,000 miles on it. Just like all the other times, there are no MIL or CEL lights on.

We also switched to 93 Octane fuel. Didn't help.
Did you try new spark plugs yet?
 

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I know this is an old post but I’m having the exact same issues as the OP. I have a 2013 SEL 4WD 2.0 with 98,000 miles. When I bought the escape a few months ago I was averaging 22 MPG which I was happy with. Then I ran a bottle of a Marvel Mystery Fuel Injector cleaner in my gas tank. Since then I’ve been averaginging 16 MPG. It’s been 3 months and 3000 miles and no change.

When idling, my engine will randomly dip down to 500 RPM’s like it’s briefly starving for fuel but it quickly goes back up to the proper idle. I also have the same issue with the trans shifting a little hard. Was winding what the OP’s solution ended up being?
SShurricane is offline
 

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Hello, first post here. Our Escape has about 41,000 miles on it now. Bought it brand new. Right before the bumper-bumper warranty ran out we had it in service for an idle stumble issue that started around 30,000 miles. The idle will dip to about 500 RPM while sitting with the car in park, and sometimes while sitting still in Drive. They replaced spark plug boots, I believe that's all they did. Now its back to its old ways again. All the recalls have been done that we have received in the mail. Also the trans shifts hard sometimes, searching here it looks like there may be a TSB for that.

Just wondering if anyone has had this issue and what the remedy may have been.
Hello

I have a Ford Escape 2013 2.0L ecoboost with 109,000 miles. I had the same issue with the engine idle stumble. I took it to my mechanic and he said that Fords have a problem with the purge valve of the EGR (Engine Gas Recirculation). He change it and in my case, this resolve the issue. You have to take your Escape to a good mechanic cause it may be a EGR sistem problem. Fords tend to have these kinds of problems with the EGR system without the check engine show off.
 

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I bought this car used and have had it about a month....up until 2 weeks ago it ran like a top...now the engine light is flashing and it acts like it wants to stall out...also ive had issue with the coolant light coming on however that has stopped and now just the engine light flashes and it idles rough and seems to have a hard time accelerating but once it accelerated it starts to shake and is rough help
 
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