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My Ford Escape with 62,000 miles in it shut off while driving 45 mile per hour road. I took it to dealership but they can’t diagnose anything except only 50 % of battery left. They put new battery but after driving for 6 weeks it shut off again in the middle of the road. I don’t feel safe driving this car. Any advice out there?
 

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My brand new 2014 Escape S quit at least 5 times while I owned it, but only when shifting from reverse to drive when backing up. When it quit the first tim, it was pitch dark outside, and everything electrical on the vehicle went dead, in addition to the engine. No headlights, no instrument lights, no radio, no chimes or warnings. Had to turn ignition off completely before it would come back to life and restart. Of course, the dealer could not duplicate the issue.

Since yours has quit again, did you check to see if your new battery is still good? Maybe something is drawing it down. I realize it's only been six weeks, but you never know.
 

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My 2014 Escape at 53k miles, just yesterday shut off while driving. A yellow box came up on the dash screen then before I could read it, everything was working fine again. I initially thought it was only the radio system because ( coincedentaly), it shut off as I went under a bridge and was up again right after I was out from under it. This morning I went out to my car. Unlocked it and could not start the engine. Car is completely dead. Stuck in park. I can’t even fully lock it up.
 

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My 2014 Escape at 53k miles, just yesterday shut off while driving. A yellow box came up on the dash screen then before I could read it, everything was working fine again. I initially thought it was only the radio system because ( coincedentaly), it shut off as I went under a bridge and was up again right after I was out from under it. This morning I went out to my car. Unlocked it and could not start the engine. Car is completely dead. Stuck in park. I can’t even fully lock it up.
Are you first owner? Is this original battery?
 

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I don’t know what BMS reset means. Hopefully the problem is only a battery issue.
I am guessing at this point, the dealer did not change the battery. Short version is that the BMS must be reset on a battery change otherwise the computer that controls charging continues charging as if the battery is very old. This has led to a variety of electrical issues. Encourage you to read threads on this board on battery, battery change, BMS, electrical issues. Also consider adding your vehicle information to your signature. It helps others help you.
 

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To the OP Nets101....

Your problem can be difficult to properly diagnose. It is possible that you experienced a very quick "glitch" from an engine management sensor that killed your engine but unfortunately did not set a code. (Ironically, some refer to events like these as an "escape") One specific engine management sensor that can do this when on the front end of failure would be the crankshaft position sensor. Please know I'm not advocating replacing this sensor on a guess, I'm just giving you an example of what can happen with all of the sensors and computer modules on late model vehicle.

If a vehicle dies like you are describing, you have to determine whether you are missing spark, fuel or fuel injector pulse and without having diagnostic equipment installed at the time that the engine dies, that can be tough.

Just to confirm, did the dealership do a complete scan of ALL OBDII and also all mfg. specific computers/modules on your Escape to look for any codes or pending codes? Assuming they did, especially at a dealership, but still have to ask. If they didn't, that is absolutely positively job #1, even if the check engine light is not on or never was illuminated.

I was a Technician for 23 years and by far, the hardest thing to fix is an intermittent issue, especially one that can't be recreated within a short period of time. If the vehicle is running well when brought in for diagnosis and there are no codes, unless you want to load up the "parts cannon" and start replacing parts, it is really quite challenging.

Please keep us updated on this.....I'm interested to see where it goes.
 

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I am guessing at this point, the dealer did not change the battery. Short version is that the BMS must be reset on a battery change otherwise the computer that controls charging continues charging as if the battery is very old. This has led to a variety of electrical issues. Encourage you to read threads on this board on battery, battery change, BMS, electrical issues. Also consider adding your vehicle information to your signature. It helps others help you.
Thank you. You are correct. A non dealer mechanic changed the battery. My manual doesn’t t even mention anything anout the reset so I wouldn’t have known about it.
 

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I am guessing at this point, the dealer did not change the battery. Short version is that the BMS must be reset on a battery change otherwise the computer that controls charging continues charging as if the battery is very old. This has led to a variety of electrical issues. Encourage you to read threads on this board on battery, battery change, BMS, electrical issues. Also consider adding your vehicle information to your signature. It helps others help you.
Thanks for the help. The problem seems to have been a bad battery. It was still under the warranty at the mechanic. I mentioned the reset and they made sure it was done.
 
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