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Android Car Stereo?

Hi! Has anyone ever installed the Android GPS Car stereo? I want to buy one and install in my car. How about the Seicane Android car stereo?
 

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Hi! Has anyone ever installed the Android GPS Car stereo? I want to buy one and install in my car. How about the Seicane Android car stereo?
Moved your post here where there's a lot of information about installing it. It'll still show up and folks can reply. Generally, it's good idea to search out a thread that has things related to what you are doing and post there -- otherwise we'll just move it anyway, lol.

However, some things about the answer you need could change depending on your year, trim, which version of Sync you have, etc.

Please make a signature describing your Escape so that when you ask further questions, people will know right away what you have and give you better answers.

Also, your first post, right? Welcome!
 

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I can't tell for sure from the pictures but was that the base model sync module originally, the one without the touch screen that you took out? I ask because I am curious how the individual buttons work, I would love to find a way to be able to automate several button presses in succession, but I am not sure how the buttons are triggered and what kind of electrical signals they send.

Basically looking for a "switch to Bluetooth audio in a noisy car without hitting six buttons fix"
 

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Hi, I have a base 2014 with the 4.2" screen and active guidelines. I am considering installing an aftermarket radio using te Scosche FD02SR and moving the camara wires to the scosche connector to retain the factory camera and screen. My question is, will the active guidelines still work? Thanks in advance.
 

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Did my install this weekend. Used iDatalink Maestro RR with the FO2 harness and a Metra dash kit and a Kenwood DDX6905s. Took me about 3 hours to complete. The hardest part is really just cutting up the dash. It was trial and error until I got the double din to fit. I did end up cutting 2 wires on the back of the stock unit that I am unsure what they did. They were seperate from the main harnesses and I couldn't for the life of me figure out the connectors and how they detached. Anyone know what they were? I'm assuming it was something for the radio antennae because I bought an adapter and no connection on the radio ressembled the adapter I bought and when I look on eBay at 2015 Escape radios I see they do have the antennae hookup that the adapter I bought has.
 

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Hi, I have a base 2014 with the 4.2" screen and active guidelines. I am considering installing an aftermarket radio using te Scosche FD02SR and moving the camara wires to the scosche connector to retain the factory camera and screen. My question is, will the active guidelines still work? Thanks in advance.

Using the iDatalink Maestro I have the active guidelines and the camera shows up on the Kenwood and the original 4.2" screen is non-functional. However the image quality is a bit poorer compared to the 4.2" screen.
 

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I've got a 2014 SE with SYNC 1 (no touchscreen, just the single small screen that also shows the backup camera).

I picked up the Android-based, double-DIN, 7" touchscreen ATOTO A6 today during Amazon's Prime Day for $131 and some change.

I don't care about keeping steering wheel controls, but I do want to keep the stock backup camera. I don't particularly care if the backup camera continues to output to the tiny screen or displays on the head unit. The wiring harness has a pink wire for the rear camera power, and there's an RCA port for the rear camera video feed.

So my question is this: what is the bare minimum I would need to purchase to replace the stock SYNC 1 system with the ATOTO A6 while retaining operation of the backup camera? To take it a step farther, what additional things would I need to purchase to retain steering wheel controls?

I tried to post links, but the system didn't like it, so hopefully that's enough info.

Thanks!
 

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Yes, I didn't have to change anything to keep the back-up camera through the 4.2" original display!

The display when parked has the blue rectangles as a background image, and then when you start driving it goes all black and shows the Temp, Date, and Time on the display.
Does the factory backup camera work through the 4.2 display when you put it in reverse? What parts did you need to retain this functionality? Also did your set up retain the turn signal clicks through the speakers? What did you use to retain that functionality?
 

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Hey all, I am in the process of going through adding a double din radio to my car currently...I am waiting on one more harness to show up then I will post a full write up also since I used different parts that were potentially not avaiable when this awesome post as written. As of right now these are the parts I am using:

Dask kit - Metra 99-5833B
Main Harness - Metra XSVI-5524-NAV
Backup cam Harness - Axxess AX-FDSYNC-SWC (Still waiting for it to arrive to finish write up)
Steering wheel control Harness - Metra Axxess ASWC-1
Antenna Harness - Metra 40-EU10
Headunit - Sony XAV-ax5000

Even though the Main harness is hardwired for the ASWC-1 you actually neeed to either hard wire it yourself to the wires running into your 4.2" screen(And the only info you'll find about that is on their website looking for a 2014 Ford Focus hookup) or you can use the the AX-FDSYNC-SWC and that way the backup image is sent over to your new headunit as well. The steering wheel controller will not work plugged into your main harness :(
 

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I am new to the forums and have finished reading the sticky which lead me here. Seems like a really good informative post, however, since it’s an old one I was hoping I could get some questions answered

1) How much of the dash needed to be cut, and does any one have pictures of what was cut?

2) I know some of the newer after market options that don’t have a disk player built in are only about 2” deep. I am wondering if going that route would help.
 

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I have circled where I made the two cuts in red so you can see. I totally forgot to post all of this stuff up when I was finished.
The head unit I put in was not very deep but because it installs at an angle it will still need to be removed.

76391
 

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I had my Kenwood Excelon DDX9904S DVD Car Receiver installed with the iDatalink Maestro and iDatalink wiring harness successfully installed.

The only thing is that the steering wheel controls do not work unless the cable from the Sync Screen is disconnected and then plugged into the Kenwood headhunt. The Sync screen remains dim. Not a huge issue because everything works great otherwise. I use the Kenwood for bluetooth.

Anyway to get the screen to turn on and maybe show the date and time or something like that? I don't care if it does anything else just the OCD in me wants it to be on. Maybe even take out the screen and add some sort of a shelf if that's available for purchase somewhere?

I attached what it looks like below.

About how much was the install
 

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This thread was very helpful for my install, so I thought I'd share my experience with mine after 6 months of use.

Base vehicle: 2013 Ford Escape SE with 4.3" Sync system, XM radio, no camera, no park aid sensors.

78239


Parts:
Sony XAV-AX210
iDataLink HRN-RR-FO2 Wire harness
Metra 40-EU10 Antenna Adapter
Metra 99-5833B Dash Kit (Matte Black)
Posi-Products Car Stereo Wiring Harness Connectors (1 pack)
iDatalink Maestro RR Interface Module
ParkVision back-up camera
Flush-mount USB 2.0 port with 3 foot extension.

Total cost was around 900$ Canadian

78240


I did this upgrade as a spontaneous gift for my girlfriend in preparation for a week-long trip this summer. I also leather-wrapped the wheel and installed a trailer hitch to carry bikes.
She didn't care about XM radio, so I didn't buy the tuner, she wanted a volume knob, a back-up camera, and Apple CarPlay compatibility.

Comments on functionality and compatibility:
  • For some reason, even with the correct antenna adaptor, I get zero AM reception. Sony has accepted to replace the unit, but my girlfriend doesn't care about AM radio (it bothers me way more than it bothers her).
  • The ability to change button colours and background is really appreciated. The buttons can light up in the same shade of blue as the rest of the instrument cluster (even though it looks purple in the pictures for some reason). Combined with the fact that the premium sound system on the Escape was originally Sony-branded, this gives a very OEM look.
  • The unit also works with Android auto
  • The resistive touch display is the best I've ever used. It isn't as good as a capacitive touch, but it's very useable and never caused problems. This isn't at all like an old PDA or GPS.
  • The head unit doesn't recognize night/day brightness settings from the iDatalink Maestro, the display needs to be manually dimmed or brightened, but the dark setting is good even during the day. But, if I recall correctly, Android Auto and Apple Car Play automatically do night/day brightness via other means that work in their interface.
  • The Metra head unit surround matches the OEM plastics perfectly. I'm very impressed. My only complaint is that the orange LED that turns on to indicate that the doors are locked is too bright when driving at night.
  • Only the cluster of buttons at the bottom right of the steering wheel (skip, previous, hang up, pick up call, volume up, volume down) react to long press inputs. The arrow keys and OK button on the top right do not react to long presses, so flashing extra functions on the iDatalink Maestro will do nothing. The buttons also don't react to multi-functions, so the Seek + & Hang up button needs to be programmed Seek + for quick press, and hang up for long press. The "Seek + & Hang up" function for quick press only from the Maestro software is not recognized by the unit.
  • The worst problem by far has been that the Sony unit does not make any distinction between Seek up/down and Preset up/down commands from the steering wheel / Maestro in the radio tuner. It'll just do Preset up/down regardless. This isn't too bad if you always listen to the same few radio stations, but going to anything outside your presets requires going to the screen and repeatedly tapping the seek button. This is especially annoying when driving through a new town with stations you aren't familiar with.
  • My girlfriend doesn't like that the old 4.3" screen stops being functional when the head unit is installed (the wireharness that used to go to it is re-routed to the Maestro). The only real loss from this is the ambient temperature reading. The closest thing to that is the intake temperature in the gauges menu of the head unit, but that reading becomes too high when the engine starts warming up.

Wiring and installation notes:
  • If you plug in an aftermarket backup camera with an RCA cable to the radio directly, it'll still recognize it over the empty input from the datalink wireharness
  • If I could go back and do my wiring differently, I'd wire the back-up camera to a constant 12v and have the video feed turn on and off with the head unit trigger. The way it's setup now, it gets power directly from the reverse lights, and shuts off a few seconds before the head unit has had time to react to shifting out of reverse, so it'll display "NO VIDEO" for this duration. This wiring also prevents me from going into the camera settings with a live feed. Going into reverse to try to turn on the video feed in the settings menu overrides the camera settings menu and goes to the regular camera display. Just viewing the rear camera when not in reverse is also not possible. I'll probably fix this later. Not having the live feed outside reverse just means making adjustments on a black screen.
  • I'm quite proud of my flush-mount USB port install. Due to the pre-installed factory connectors, this is the most centered it could be on the panel. Routing the cable can be done with the head unit out, and using the Sony USB extension that came with the unit. The cable can be guided under the center-passenger side vent, and then pulled down almost to the carpet through an opening made when the glovebox is removed. Once close to the carpet, a plastic door on the plastic trim panel needs to be pryed off, exposing a push pin. The panel can then be pryed open along most of the bottom. At this point, the 3 foot extension needs to be connected, and the center console trim partially disassembled. Finally, the second extension can be guided up into the center console storage compartment. The factory panel with the USB IN and AUX IN is simply pryed away. I used a Dremel tool to cut the hole for the flush-mount USB port.

78241
 

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This thread was very helpful for my install, so I thought I'd share my experience with mine after 6 months of use.

Base vehicle: 2013 Ford Escape SE with 4.3" Sync system, XM radio, no camera, no park aid sensors.

View attachment 78239

Parts:
Sony XAV-AX210
iDataLink HRN-RR-FO2 Wire harness
Metra 40-EU10 Antenna Adapter
Metra 99-5833B Dash Kit (Matte Black)
Posi-Products Car Stereo Wiring Harness Connectors (1 pack)
iDatalink Maestro RR Interface Module
ParkVision back-up camera
Flush-mount USB 2.0 port with 3 foot extension.

Total cost was around 900$ Canadian

View attachment 78240

I did this upgrade as a spontaneous gift for my girlfriend in preparation for a week-long trip this summer. I also leather-wrapped the wheel and installed a trailer hitch to carry bikes.
She didn't care about XM radio, so I didn't buy the tuner, she wanted a volume knob, a back-up camera, and Apple CarPlay compatibility.

Comments on functionality and compatibility:
  • For some reason, even with the correct antenna adaptor, I get zero AM reception. Sony has accepted to replace the unit, but my girlfriend doesn't care about AM radio (it bothers me way more than it bothers her).
  • The ability to change button colours and background is really appreciated. The buttons can light up in the same shade of blue as the rest of the instrument cluster (even though it looks purple in the pictures for some reason). Combined with the fact that the premium sound system on the Escape was originally Sony-branded, this gives a very OEM look.
  • The unit also works with Android auto
  • The resistive touch display is the best I've ever used. It isn't as good as a capacitive touch, but it's very useable and never caused problems. This isn't at all like an old PDA or GPS.
  • The head unit doesn't recognize night/day brightness settings from the iDatalink Maestro, the display needs to be manually dimmed or brightened, but the dark setting is good even during the day. But, if I recall correctly, Android Auto and Apple Car Play automatically do night/day brightness via other means that work in their interface.
  • The Metra head unit surround matches the OEM plastics perfectly. I'm very impressed. My only complaint is that the orange LED that turns on to indicate that the doors are locked is too bright when driving at night.
  • Only the cluster of buttons at the bottom right of the steering wheel (skip, previous, hang up, pick up call, volume up, volume down) react to long press inputs. The arrow keys and OK button on the top right do not react to long presses, so flashing extra functions on the iDatalink Maestro will do nothing. The buttons also don't react to multi-functions, so the Seek + & Hang up button needs to be programmed Seek + for quick press, and hang up for long press. The "Seek + & Hang up" function for quick press only from the Maestro software is not recognized by the unit.
  • The worst problem by far has been that the Sony unit does not make any distinction between Seek up/down and Preset up/down commands from the steering wheel / Maestro in the radio tuner. It'll just do Preset up/down regardless. This isn't too bad if you always listen to the same few radio stations, but going to anything outside your presets requires going to the screen and repeatedly tapping the seek button. This is especially annoying when driving through a new town with stations you aren't familiar with.
  • My girlfriend doesn't like that the old 4.3" screen stops being functional when the head unit is installed (the wireharness that used to go to it is re-routed to the Maestro). The only real loss from this is the ambient temperature reading. The closest thing to that is the intake temperature in the gauges menu of the head unit, but that reading becomes too high when the engine starts warming up.

Wiring and installation notes:
  • If you plug in an aftermarket backup camera with an RCA cable to the radio directly, it'll still recognize it over the empty input from the datalink wireharness
  • If I could go back and do my wiring differently, I'd wire the back-up camera to a constant 12v and have the video feed turn on and off with the head unit trigger. The way it's setup now, it gets power directly from the reverse lights, and shuts off a few seconds before the head unit has had time to react to shifting out of reverse, so it'll display "NO VIDEO" for this duration. This wiring also prevents me from going into the camera settings with a live feed. Going into reverse to try to turn on the video feed in the settings menu overrides the camera settings menu and goes to the regular camera display. Just viewing the rear camera when not in reverse is also not possible. I'll probably fix this later. Not having the live feed outside reverse just means making adjustments on a black screen.
  • I'm quite proud of my flush-mount USB port install. Due to the pre-installed factory connectors, this is the most centered it could be on the panel. Routing the cable can be done with the head unit out, and using the Sony USB extension that came with the unit. The cable can be guided under the center-passenger side vent, and then pulled down almost to the carpet through an opening made when the glovebox is removed. Once close to the carpet, a plastic door on the plastic trim panel needs to be pryed off, exposing a push pin. The panel can then be pryed open along most of the bottom. At this point, the 3 foot extension needs to be connected, and the center console trim partially disassembled. Finally, the second extension can be guided up into the center console storage compartment. The factory panel with the USB IN and AUX IN is simply pryed away. I used a Dremel tool to cut the hole for the flush-mount USB port.

View attachment 78241
Personally I just unplugged my old stock screen so its just black all the time. Android Auto displays current temperature. It is kind of annoying if anything happens to the batter I will need to let the screen boot once to get my reverse guidance back but thats it.

I have also read leaving the camera in a constant on position will burn it out and youll wind up replacing often, I have never experience that though.

Make sure you have the latest firmware for your head unit and for any adaptive controllers youre using. From time to time things will just stop working and there is always a seriese of updates that seems to bring it back.
 

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Wow, this thread is full of excellent information.

I was wondering if anyone could help me in selecting the parts that I need to upgrade my elderly father's 2014 Escape. His stereo stopped working earlier this year, and I tried all of the reset procedures (pulling fuses, disconnecting battery) etc, but he still has no sound. The stereo turns on, but the radio and CD have no sound coming through the speakers. He lives 300 miles away from me, so troubleshooting is very periodic based on when I can visit.... I'm assuming that the ACM is bad, and from what I've read about having to have the dealer program it, this thread make is seem like it would be easier and cheaper for me to put a new head unit in the car, especially since I have a Dual XHD7714 head unit laying around that I removed from one of my vehicles.

This is his setup, which appears to be the four inch screen.
78296

He doesn't have a smartphone and has never used Sync.

I need to retain the functionality of the backup camera on the stock display, which appears to be possible from what I've read in this thread.
Can somebody advise me on what wiring kit to use, which would accomplish this?

I like the look of the SWRFD-60E kit from Crux: SWRFD-60E | Radio Replacement with Steering Wheel Control Retention for Select Ford Vehicles with 4” Screen – CRUX Interfacing Solutions But I'm not sure if the backup camera will still work.
The manual here says: https://www.cruxinterfacing.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/SWRFD-60E_MANUAL-1.pdf
- Retains factory features in select Ford vehicles with 4” screen.​
- Pre-programmed to retain factory Steering Wheel Controls.​
- Retains factory 4” screen.​
- Works on vehicles with or without Sync.​
- Retains factory Aux-Input on vehicles without Sync.​
- Retains voice command features on vehicles with Sync.​
- Phone pick up and hang up functions using the steering wheel control buttons​

All I really care about is the backup camera, and it doesn't particularly mention it.

Any preferences on which dash mounting kit to use? Do I need to use the Metra kit since I'm installing a single DIN head unit?

I'm trying to order the parts now, so I can solder up the connectors for the stereo at home before hopefully visiting him after Christmas, when I will install it on his car.
Thanks in advance!
 

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Wow, this thread is full of excellent information.

I was wondering if anyone could help me in selecting the parts that I need to upgrade my elderly father's 2014 Escape. His stereo stopped working earlier this year, and I tried all of the reset procedures (pulling fuses, disconnecting battery) etc, but he still has no sound. The stereo turns on, but the radio and CD have no sound coming through the speakers. He lives 300 miles away from me, so troubleshooting is very periodic based on when I can visit.... I'm assuming that the ACM is bad, and from what I've read about having to have the dealer program it, this thread make is seem like it would be easier and cheaper for me to put a new head unit in the car, especially since I have a Dual XHD7714 head unit laying around that I removed from one of my vehicles.

This is his setup, which appears to be the four inch screen.
View attachment 78296
He doesn't have a smartphone and has never used Sync.

I need to retain the functionality of the backup camera on the stock display, which appears to be possible from what I've read in this thread.
Can somebody advise me on what wiring kit to use, which would accomplish this?

I like the look of the SWRFD-60E kit from Crux: SWRFD-60E | Radio Replacement with Steering Wheel Control Retention for Select Ford Vehicles with 4” Screen – CRUX Interfacing Solutions But I'm not sure if the backup camera will still work.
The manual here says: https://www.cruxinterfacing.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/SWRFD-60E_MANUAL-1.pdf
- Retains factory features in select Ford vehicles with 4” screen.​
- Pre-programmed to retain factory Steering Wheel Controls.​
- Retains factory 4” screen.​
- Works on vehicles with or without Sync.​
- Retains factory Aux-Input on vehicles without Sync.​
- Retains voice command features on vehicles with Sync.​
- Phone pick up and hang up functions using the steering wheel control buttons​

All I really care about is the backup camera, and it doesn't particularly mention it.

Any preferences on which dash mounting kit to use? Do I need to use the Metra kit since I'm installing a single DIN head unit?

I'm trying to order the parts now, so I can solder up the connectors for the stereo at home before hopefully visiting him after Christmas, when I will install it on his car.
Thanks in advance!
Honestly call the 800 number for Metra and they can walk you through everything you'd actually need to accomplish a setup for your pops
 

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Wow, this thread is full of excellent information.

I was wondering if anyone could help me in selecting the parts that I need to upgrade my elderly father's 2014 Escape. His stereo stopped working earlier this year, and I tried all of the reset procedures (pulling fuses, disconnecting battery) etc, but he still has no sound. The stereo turns on, but the radio and CD have no sound coming through the speakers. He lives 300 miles away from me, so troubleshooting is very periodic based on when I can visit.... I'm assuming that the ACM is bad, and from what I've read about having to have the dealer program it, this thread make is seem like it would be easier and cheaper for me to put a new head unit in the car, especially since I have a Dual XHD7714 head unit laying around that I removed from one of my vehicles.

This is his setup, which appears to be the four inch screen.
View attachment 78296
He doesn't have a smartphone and has never used Sync.

I need to retain the functionality of the backup camera on the stock display, which appears to be possible from what I've read in this thread.
Can somebody advise me on what wiring kit to use, which would accomplish this?

I like the look of the SWRFD-60E kit from Crux: SWRFD-60E | Radio Replacement with Steering Wheel Control Retention for Select Ford Vehicles with 4” Screen – CRUX Interfacing Solutions But I'm not sure if the backup camera will still work.

All I really care about is the backup camera, and it doesn't particularly mention it.

Any preferences on which dash mounting kit to use? Do I need to use the Metra kit since I'm installing a single DIN head unit?

I'm trying to order the parts now, so I can solder up the connectors for the stereo at home before hopefully visiting him after Christmas, when I will install it on his car.
Thanks in advance!
I ended up contacting CRUX directly and they verified that the backup camera functionality will still work on the stock screen. Very helpful and quick tech support via email!
So, I ended up ordering the CRUX SWRFD-60E, the Metra 99-5833B dash kit, and the Metra 40-EU10 antenna adapter from Sonic Electronix. I've never ordered from them before, but they were listed as an authorized seller for Crux and their prices were quite good. Plus, I'd rather give somebody besides amazon my business.
Hopefully I'll be able to travel in to visit my dad and perform the installation over the Christmas break. I'll post an update after I get to do the install.
Thanks again folks.
 
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