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2015 Escape 73.5k miles

Sorry for the wall of text..
About a month ago, i went to get in my escape and it would not unlock with my remote key, so i unlocked it manually. Then it wouldnt start, but all my dash lights were working. After the dashlights came on, the remote key worked to lock/unlock, but the car still would not start. Called for a jump, and we got it started right away, so i figured it was just a bad battery. Took it to the dealership to get it replaced, and upon testing the battery it was fine. Then, the car would not start for them either. They ultimately ended up testing the battery outside of the car and it said it needed replaced, so they replaced it and i drove home. Next morning, it started fine. Drove to work, and about an hour into work i went out to get something from my car and the key unlock/lock didnt work, and the car would not start again. I called for a jumpstart to take it to the dealer, but before they arrived it magically decided to start like nothing was wrong. So I took it to the dealer anyway and they could not replicate the issue, and i took the car home. About 2 weeks pass, no issues. Yesterday after work i ran a couple errands before coming home, culminating in about an hour drive time. An hour after being home, I went to go start the car to leave for dinner...would not start. So i let the car sit overnight, and when I got up this morning I went out to try it and it started just fine. The dealership has no idea whats wrong because it is not throwing any error codes or anything. Any help/knowledge would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Justin
 

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Sunset 2014 Escape Ti 2.0 Persian Green 2020 Escape Ti Hybrid
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The only thing I can think of would be the BCM going to sleep and not waking up correctly or the BMS needing to be reset.
I'd ask the dealer if there are any available calibration updates (Ford speak for firmware) for any of the modules in the car and if there are then get everything flashed to the last release.
 

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2016 Kuga Titanium 2.0l EcoBoost
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Some info off the top of my head- check the negative battery terminal and the box on the terminal clamp (that has 2 wires going to it) for corrosion damage. There's a wiring loom fault in some year models where splices in the loom become intermittent. There's a wiring junction box on the front of the battery cover- at least one person has posted finding loose connections in there.

Also look into ForScan as then you'll be able to do the logged fault code check and measure other relevant data yourself. Don't trust the dealer has bothered to check for logged faults.
 
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Weird shot in the dark....is yours push to start, or key? How is the battery in your fob (or remote, if you prefer)? Do you have a spare to see if it works better? Worth a try.
 

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Sunset 2014 Escape Ti 2.0 Persian Green 2020 Escape Ti Hybrid
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Some info off the top of my head- check the negative battery terminal and the box on the terminal clamp (that has 2 wires going to it) for corrosion damage. There's a wiring loom fault in some year models where splices in the loom become intermittent. There's a wiring junction box on the front of the battery cover- at least one person has posted finding loose connections in there.

Also look into ForScan as then you'll be able to do the logged fault code check and measure other relevant data yourself. Don't trust the dealer has bothered to check for logged faults.
The little box on the clamp is the battery management sensor.
There's also a warning from Ford to never connect an add on accessory ground there are it will throw off the system.
 

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2016 Kuga Titanium 2.0l EcoBoost
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The little box on the clamp is the battery management sensor.
:) Yes, I know that. I was keeping it simple as if I put in "check the BMS sensor for corrosion" anyone not familiar with the system would probably be confused as to what I was talking about.
 
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What vehicle is that pic of/ from? (n)

It doesn't match up with what my 2016 Kuga BMS sensor/ negative battery clamp looks like! See below - the 2015 Escape should be the same. But keep in mind this sensor is hidden right up the back of the battery near the firewall.... The lower cowling below the windscreen will obscure the view. I took the below picture with the cowling removed.

78138
 

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Read all my old posts
my negative cable was loose and caused a lot of weird electrical problems
the dealership never took the time to inspect the negative cable
My BCM was not bad
 

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Sunset 2014 Escape Ti 2.0 Persian Green 2020 Escape Ti Hybrid
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What vehicle is that pic of/ from? (n)

It doesn't match up with what my 2016 Kuga BMS sensor/ negative battery clamp looks like! See below - the 2015 Escape should be the same. But keep in mind this sensor is hidden right up the back of the battery near the firewall.... The lower cowling below the windscreen will obscure the view. I took the below picture with the cowling removed.

View attachment 78138
Mine is a 2014.
Just like the Fusion/Mondeo the Escape and the Kuga are not 100% identical on all parts/options, it depends on what part of the world the Kuga was built in (US 2013+ are all built at Louisville).
Kugas get diesel engines along with nice things like heated washer jets and rear foglamps among other things that we never see here in the states.
One would think that Ford US engineering would have a lot more in common with say Ford Germany, but as we've seen with Forscan they don't even leave something as simple as BCM calibrations (Ford speak for firmware) alone. Hence the reason the job 1 2013-2014 Escape had an issue with not maintaining the cluster brightness setting after the car was turned off for 30 minutes, something which didn't happen on the Kugas.
With the second gen Fusions, the 2013s programming is different than the Mondeos or the 2014+ Fusions (there's actually a note in etis build info on the late 2014s "after 9/16/14 built as Mondeo".
 

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Read all my old posts
my negative cable was loose and caused a lot of weird electrical problems
the dealership never took the time to inspect the negative cable
My BCM was not bad
I didn't say your BCM was bad I suggested they check for a calibration update for it since the BCM goes into "deep sleep" after 30 minutes, it could also be the PCM since the PATS security is in that module.
If it were mine, I would use ForScan to drop my AsBuilt back into the modules on the side chance that the configuration in one had gotten corrupted.
As far as not leaving codes, for the first 24k miles if I took my 2014 through a specific car wash I'd get a traction control off\ABS light that cleared within 3 minutes. Even with having an ODB II scanner plugged in while it was going through the car wash it never showed a code.
 

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My 2015 Ford escape 2.0L will not start?any help
You need to provide a ton more info for anyone to be able to help. My first inclination is to say to jump start it but I'm fairly sure by posting here, you have at least tried the basics
 

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2014 Ford Escape Titanium, 2.0L, Sync 2 MFT
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My 2015 Ford escape 2.0L will not start?any help
As the above poster mentioned, we need more information to help. Also, have you had a look at the other posts in this thread to see if any of them will help you? You should also mention what you have already tried to get your vehicle to start.
 
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