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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My 2016 1.6 EB is very low on miles but I like to change the coolant every 3-4 years or so just as general maintenance in any of our vehicles. Did an oil change today and since the bottom engine cover was off I had collected some supplies to do a drain and fill of the coolant.

In my opinion its much cheaper to buy the concentrated Motorcraft coolant and mix a 50/50 yourself with a $1 gallon of distilled water. You can make 2 useable gallons out of one for about the same price as a gallon of the pre-diluted, just be sure to use only distilled water and not just sink water. About $20 from the Ford dealer for the gallon jug. I would highly suggest using the motorcraft coolant and not aftermarket stuff and DO NOT mix types or colors of other stuff. I think the total capacity of mine is about a gallon and a half or a little more but you'll only be able to drain about a gallon or less out. Thats a good reason not to try to do a flush or regular water flush because with whats left in the cooling system you can't get it out it would be very difficult to maintain or figure out the 50/50 mix ratio when you're done. Better to just drain and fill with the 50/50 in my opinion.

74858


I jacked mine up and set the tires back down on some concrete pavers to give me enough space to lay underneath and keep the vehicle level. You'll find the plastic drain-cock on the drivers side of the radiator. Theres a nipple on the side of it that some 3/8" ID vinyl tubing from any hardware store will slide onto securely and you can aim it into a gallon milk jug or something so you don't make a big mess. Theres an air pipe (I'm guessing for the turbo?) thats kind of in your way but you can flex it around a little bit to make room for some pliers. BE VERY easy with the drain cock. It doesn't look or feel very sturdy. I used a combination of some right angle needle nose pliers and some regular pliers to back it out. Try to keep even pressure all the way across the plastic tab and don't try to focus the "twist" on a single small area of it. Gingerly back it out counter-clockwise and it will reach a point where the coolant starts flowing out then stop. Heres what it looks like with the tubing on the nipple. Sorry for the blurry pic....

74859


I got almost exactly one gallon out after I let it drip for a good 30 minutes or so. Obviously removing the cap from the coolant tank lets it flow easier. Heres what I removed....still looks good but theres an every so slight film of dirtiness in it on top. Nothing unusual.

74860


Next, go back underneath and remove the vinyl tubing. VERY CAREFULLY screw back in the plastic drain cock. It has a positive feel when its ready to stop so don't force it or try to twist/tighten it past that point. Next, refill the coolant. I found a handy right angle funnel that works well for the tight space. Its kinda stupid that they place the cap way back under the cowl on the 13-16 escapes.

74861


While I prefer to use my pneumatic/vacuum Airlift tool kit for refilling coolant to avoid airlocks or trapped air theres just no room without removing the cowl panel and since the coolant tank appears to be the high point on the system I was hoping for no problems. Fill the tank up past the MAX fill line as the level will drop as you run the engine.

Next, start the car, turn the HVAC to heat and high fan speed. Let it idle for a good 20 minutes or so and give it some 2000-3000 rpm revs occasionally during this time. Watch the temp gauge and make sure you are getting some heat out of the vents after it warms up some. I left the coolant tank cap off for this to allow the air to escape. You'll see lots of air bubbles and some foamy appearance to the coolant in the tank as it warms up and works the air out of the system and the level will drop some. Refill as necessary to keep it at the MAX mark. After this I obviously checked for leaks around the drain-cock area and put the cap back on so the cooling system could pressurize. I left the bottom engine cover off for now just to check after a drive for any leaks. Next, I took the E out for a "sprirted" drive, give it a few full throttle accelerations, get every thing good and hot/normal operating temp. Keep an eye on the temp gauge and make sure it doesn't spike.

74862


After I got back home it was nearly at a perfect level. I'll watch it for a few days and adjust/add if necessary but I experienced no airlock issues, no leaks, have good heat, and the engine temp is right on the money normal. Seems that for a simple drain and fill these don't require any special procedures or special air bleeding. Obviously your situation may vary but that was mine. Hope this is helpful to someone!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So glad Ford redesigned the coolant tank cap for the 17+ Escapes.
Yea, I noticed that. Dumb design for the 13-16. One of those things where they really want you to go to the dealer for if you don't have any ingenuity or mechanical aptitude. Of course most folks never change things like coolant or trans fluid or even regularly change their oil...lol

Fortunately I didn't have any airlock problems so I didn't need to use my vac filler tool. Our Edges tank is right out in the open for when it'll need done in a year or two....easy access.
 

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My 2016 1.6 EB is very low on miles but I like to change the coolant every 3-4 years or so just as general maintenance in any of our vehicles. Did an oil change today and since the bottom engine cover was off I had collected some supplies to do a drain and fill of the coolant.

In my opinion its much cheaper to buy the concentrated Motorcraft coolant and mix a 50/50 yourself with a $1 gallon of distilled water. You can make 2 useable gallons out of one for about the same price as a gallon of the pre-diluted, just be sure to use only distilled water and not just sink water. About $20 from the Ford dealer for the gallon jug. I would highly suggest using the motorcraft coolant and not aftermarket stuff and DO NOT mix types or colors of other stuff. I think the total capacity of mine is about a gallon and a half or a little more but you'll only be able to drain about a gallon or less out. Thats a good reason not to try to do a flush or regular water flush because with whats left in the cooling system you can't get it out it would be very difficult to maintain or figure out the 50/50 mix ratio when you're done. Better to just drain and fill with the 50/50 in my opinion.

View attachment 74858

I jacked mine up and set the tires back down on some concrete pavers to give me enough space to lay underneath and keep the vehicle level. You'll find the plastic drain-cock on the drivers side of the radiator. Theres a nipple on the side of it that some 3/8" ID vinyl tubing from any hardware store will slide onto securely and you can aim it into a gallon milk jug or something so you don't make a big mess. Theres an air pipe (I'm guessing for the turbo?) thats kind of in your way but you can flex it around a little bit to make room for some pliers. BE VERY easy with the drain cock. It doesn't look or feel very sturdy. I used a combination of some right angle needle nose pliers and some regular pliers to back it out. Try to keep even pressure all the way across the plastic tab and don't try to focus the "twist" on a single small area of it. Gingerly back it out counter-clockwise and it will reach a point where the coolant starts flowing out then stop. Heres what it looks like with the tubing on the nipple. Sorry for the blurry pic....

View attachment 74859

I got almost exactly one gallon out after I let it drip for a good 30 minutes or so. Obviously removing the cap from the coolant tank lets it flow easier. Heres what I removed....still looks good but theres an every so slight film of dirtiness in it on top. Nothing unusual.

View attachment 74860

Next, go back underneath and remove the vinyl tubing. VERY CAREFULLY screw back in the plastic drain cock. It has a positive feel when its ready to stop so don't force it or try to twist/tighten it past that point. Next, refill the coolant. I found a handy right angle funnel that works well for the tight space. Its kinda stupid that they place the cap way back under the cowl on the 13-16 escapes.

View attachment 74861

While I prefer to use my pneumatic/vacuum Airlift tool kit for refilling coolant to avoid airlocks or trapped air theres just no room without removing the cowl panel and since the coolant tank appears to be the high point on the system I was hoping for no problems. Fill the tank up past the MAX fill line as the level will drop as you run the engine.

Next, start the car, turn the HVAC to heat and high fan speed. Let it idle for a good 20 minutes or so and give it some 2000-3000 rpm revs occasionally during this time. Watch the temp gauge and make sure you are getting some heat out of the vents after it warms up some. I left the coolant tank cap off for this to allow the air to escape. You'll see lots of air bubbles and some foamy appearance to the coolant in the tank as it warms up and works the air out of the system and the level will drop some. Refill as necessary to keep it at the MAX mark. After this I obviously checked for leaks around the drain-cock area and put the cap back on so the cooling system could pressurize. I left the bottom engine cover off for now just to check after a drive for any leaks. Next, I took the E out for a "sprirted" drive, give it a few full throttle accelerations, get every thing good and hot/normal operating temp. Keep an eye on the temp gauge and make sure it doesn't spike.

View attachment 74862

After I got back home it was nearly at a perfect level. I'll watch it for a few days and adjust/add if necessary but I experienced no airlock issues, no leaks, have good heat, and the engine temp is right on the money normal. Seems that for a simple drain and fill these don't require any special procedures or special air bleeding. Obviously your situation may vary but that was mine. Hope this is helpful to someone!
I like the idea that you cant get all the coolant out, so just replace what you drain at the 50/50 mixture...and just do every 3 yrs instead of 5...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I like the idea that you cant get all the coolant out, so just replace what you drain at the 50/50 mixture...and just do every 3 yrs instead of 5...
Yea, I won't be doing it too often. Im not sure how many times that fragile drain plug will handle getting loosened and tightened before I'd need a new radiator.....it doesn't feel very robust.
 

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Yea, I won't be doing it too often. Im not sure how many times that fragile drain plug will handle getting loosened and tightened before I'd need a new radiator.....it doesn't feel very robust.
Wonder how the dealers drain it all out since theres no engine block drain...It holds about 2 gal.total, so the heater core must contain about a gal. too.. Wonder if your put the heater on high and shut the engine off while its still on, the valve to the core will remain open so the coolant will drain back out the radiator?? BTW, on the OEM coolant bottle , does it give the yrs/ mileage for it..
 

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Wonder how the dealers drain it all out since theres no engine block drain...It holds about 2 gal.total, so the heater core must contain about a gal. too.. Wonder if your put the heater on high and shut the engine off while its still on, the valve to the core will remain open so the coolant will drain back out the radiator?? BTW, on the OEM coolant bottle , does it give the yrs/ mileage for it..
I'd guess the dealers don't worry about it. I also know they just use hose water to mix the coolant, they don't care much....lol. I don't see a mileage/year recommendation on the jug. Like I said its just something I do that the vast majority of people never do.
 

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Thanks for the write up. I am going to replace my coolant this week. Its 7 years old @ 58k, I should have changed it a year or more ago. It was great to hear you can hook up a 3/8 id hose so the coolant doesn't go all over. Just comparing the shop manual procedure... It says you can only drain 80% max of the coolant. For the 1.6L motor the capacity is 8L. Using the excel spreadsheet for drain and fill from Bob the oil guy site, the original poster drained 45%. based on that amount of drain, the 2nd drain and fill will get you 69%, 3rd 83%, and 4th 91%. If you can get 80% to drain than 1st 80%, 2nd 96%. I have a 2.0L engine with 9.2L capacity, I have 10L of 50/50 orange to exchange. I'll let you know the outcome.. Alan
 

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What do you folks think is the determining factor when changing coolant, yrs. or milage? Mine will be 3 years old in Jan.2020 but it only has 23,000 kilometers on it. :oops:
 

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What do you folks think is the determining factor when changing coolant, yrs. or milage? Mine will be 3 years old in Jan.2020 but it only has 23,000 kilometers on it. :oops:

My manual says 10 years which is ridiculous. In your case where you are only doing low mileage I would change it every 5 years (Jan., 2022) or 50,000km.). My opinion only.
 

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My manual says: Initial change: 6 years or 100K mile. After Initial change: 3 years or 50K miles.
 

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I was only able to drain 1 gallon. Same as the OP. I drained and filled twice and am at 65% new. I will drain and fill one more time to get to 80%. Pretty easy job. You only need to jack up on the passenger side.
 

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What do you folks think is the determining factor when changing coolant, yrs. or milage? Mine will be 3 years old in Jan.2020 but it only has 23,000 kilometers on it. :oops:
For you time since you don’t drive that much.
I doubt any dealer drains a radiator with the drain plug. They suck it out with a machine. Out with the old in with the new. I think it depends but you could get near 100% old coolant out.
 

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For you time since you don’t drive that much.
I doubt any dealer drains a radiator with the drain plug. They suck it out with a machine. Out with the old in with the new. I think it depends but you could get near 100% old coolant out.
My shop manual says: Up to 80% of the coolant can be removed. The engine must be taken out for 100% removal.
 

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It outlines draining thru the radiator drain cock and vacuum filling.
 

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It outlines draining thru the radiator drain cock and vacuum filling.
That method doesn't need a machine costing $k's.

With the expensive machine: The engine is running, and you're essentially cutting the line to the radiator, diverting the old to waste and adding new coolant equal to whats taken out. The only way you don't get all the old coolant out is if there's areas in the engine where it essentially sits for a fairly long timespan before being pushed out by the flow of coolant in the engine. I wouldn't think this would be a good idea so that "stagnant" coolant would ideally be minimized. 20% in that category seems way too much.
 
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