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Discussion Starter #1
I need a source for the 2016 Ford Escape wiring diagram. I found one at Ford online for $229 which is a bit out of my price range. I specifically need information on the wiring harness in the left rear behind the trim panel. There are about 20 wires in that harness and I need to find 3 circuits:

1 stop light circuit
2 +12v (When the key is ON.)
3 Ground (This is nice to have, but I could make do without this one).
 

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Welcome to the forum!

Search Wiring Diagrams

^^ Though not yet showing 2016, 2015 is available and likely very similar (the big changes came with '17)

The linked site is displaying the diagrams from the Motorcraft Workshop Manual, they're just missing the easier-to-use index, hyperlinks and connector details in the expensive CD ROM from Motorcraft/Helm.

If you want the full easy-to-use interactive manual 'experience' (same as the CD ROM) you can get a short term online subscription at the Motorcraft Service website - 72 hours for $21.95 USD here https://www.motorcraftservice.com/Purchase/ViewProduct.


Tip: For the key-on +12v you may do better looking/testing for a fuse to tap for that in the fuse box behind the right-rear cargo panel. You can grab the right stop lamp circuit behind that panel, too; IMHO it's much easier to find the stop-lamp wire in the 4-wire harness just where it exits the body interior to go to the taillight housing. On the '14 Escape that is a 4 wire harness just before the body-plug exit to the taillamp, might be the same for yours:
Violet/green = STOP (R&L)
Violet/green = PARK (R&L) yeah, same color, different circuit :-(
Green/orange = TURN (R) or Grey/orange = TURN (L)
black/white = GROUND

Tip 2: Not sure what you're up to but FYI the Escape uses logic-controlled fault-finding in the BCM rather than simple fuses for the critical stop/turn lamp feeds. Depending what you do, tapping those circuits may trip one of the fault-checks and result in a warning lamp or erratic operation of the circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The schematics on that website for 2015 shows all wires as BK-WH. Not much help. See image.
I made a mistake in my original post. I need the Stop circuit and the Reverse circuit. Like you said, I found the +12 with key on in the fuse panel you described.

Per your post, Stop Left and right = Violet/green (will test to see which one is correct)
Reverse = ???

I am connecting a 7-pin trailer connector with a brake controller. The 7-pin connector gets the tail lights, left & right turn from the existing 4-pin connector. Ground for the 7-pin connector is now a bolted on frame ground. I have added +12v key on (thank you) and now I need to find Reverse and stop.

The reverse circuit will light 2 LED backup lights on the trailer. The stop circuit will trigger the brake controller.
 

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The schematics on that website for 2015 shows all wires as BK-WH. Not much help. See image..
You accessed only the diagram for grounds - not the full wiring diagram for each component of interest. Lacking an interactive index/table of contents it takes a bit of work to find things on that free source, but they are there.
I made a mistake in my original post. I need the Stop circuit and the Reverse circuit. Like you said, I found the +12 with key on in the fuse panel you described.

Per your post, Stop Left and right = Violet/green (will test to see which one is correct)
Reverse = ???

I am connecting a 7-pin trailer connector with a brake controller. The 7-pin connector gets the tail lights, left & right turn from the existing 4-pin connector. Ground for the 7-pin connector is now a bolted on frame ground. I have added +12v key on (thank you) and now I need to find Reverse and stop.

The reverse circuit will light 2 LED backup lights on the trailer. The stop circuit will trigger the brake controller.
Suggest you search this forum for threads about trailer wiring / brake controller hookup - I know they are here.

Back-up lights are in the liftgate so that's a different harness from the Stop-tail-turn I provided in response to your OP. Again, that should be covered in one of those threads that's specific to trailer brake controller hookup.

What do you need a 12v key-on wire for? That's definitely not standard for a 7-pin controller/trailer setup. The typical is a high-capacity (40A +/-) wire direct from the battery for powering things in the trailer like interior lights, trailer battery charge, 3-way reefer in 12V mode when driving, etc. , etc. If you pull that load from the rear fuse box you invite overload disaster.

If you want, for some reason not typical for 'conventional' trailer wiring, your main 12v feed from the battery to the trailer to switch-off when the key is off, I'd use a key-on fuse trigger in the front and install a non-standard relay rated for 40+ amps on that feed near the battery.

I'm off to watch Superbowl, if I don't see you posting that you found one of those spot-on threads I'll look-and-link after football. Not my teams but the last game of the season, ya know.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The +12 Key on voltage is used to power up the brake Controller and it also charges the little emergency brake battery. Not much of a load at all. It is standard on pin 4 on a 7-pin trailer connector.
 

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Respectfully, there is no "8th pin" dedicated solely to charging the brake backup battery separate from all other auxiliary 12 volt trailer demands. The pin in your diagram labeled "Aux 12v + Charging" is the sole 12V feed for any and all trailer demands except the taillights and electric brakes. While your current trailer may not have anything other than a brake backup battery (E.g. a bare utility trailer), the long-standing convention is to wire that pin with capacity to carry common Auxiliary RV Trailer demands which very often includes much more than just the backup brake battery charge. If you don't wire for those demands your connector will be 'non-standard'.

Example here, schematic near bottom of the page Trailer Hitch Instructions For DrawTite, Reese, Hidden Hitch & More - etrailer.com

May I ask what brand/model brake controller you are using? All I've seen (many models of Tekonsha and Draw-Tite) use the same high-current power source direct from the battery for both controller operation and electric brake feed - I'd like to learn if there's a new type that uses a separate key-on feed to turn-on the controller itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That schematic helps. Thank you.

I will rewire this so that trailer connector pin 4 goes to a 40 amp fuse directly connected to the car battery. That will make the connector wiring standard.

I am a little reluctant to power the brake controller directly from the battery even though the car off current draw would likely be miniscule or zero. I will use a heavy duty relay with a 30 amp fuse to power the Tekonsha brake controller directly from the battery. Then I can use the 12v key on power to activate the relay. That will ensure zero current draw when the car is off even if something went wrong with the controller.

Note:, the trailer is an enclosed 8x11 trailer with brakes and it is non-standard because I installed a separate full size car battery to run the internal trailer lights and other 12v equipment. That circuit is not connected to the emergency battery circuit. The full size battery is connected to a charger that runs on the 110 V input that I installed. We will use this trailer a few times a year to go camping. This Escape has the towing package that is rated for 3500 lbs towing. The total weight of the trailer is well below the 3500 lb capacity.

Please let me knbow if I am still off base with this.

Thanks
 

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Sounds like you have a cool trailer - is it a bike hauler, too? I see lots of enclosed bike haulers converted for sleeping in the paddock at CMRAracing.com events where I'm a race official.

You can of course wire your connector however you like, IMHO it's just good practice to go with convention so any future user won't be surprised and you have full flexibility with a different trailer if you want.

I understand your concern about the controller draw. I'll only offer the following for your consideration ....

+ The Tekonsha Prodigy BC on my F150, now a 10+yr old model controller, goes into a 'sleep mode' after a long period of inactivity. I'd imagine they still employ such a feature on their current models. I can tell by looking in that truck after it's been parked awhile and see none of the controller LEDs lit. As soon as I step on the brake pedal, even with key-off and no trailer connected, it "awakens" as indicated by an LED dot in the controller display. I've never measured but I suspect the sleep-mode draw is very very low. Yeah, that could 'fail' and the load increase, but in 40 years of towing with Tekonsha I've never had any sort of failure period.

+ Obviously, the trailer brake control is a critical circuit. While relays are generally very reliable, they are an electro-mechanical device with mechanical contacts, subject to corrosion, etc. Personally I'm loath to introduce anything in the path of the critical brakes that isn't strictly necessary, be that a splice, plug or relay. I love relays and the great things they facilitate in electrical circuits. But, I have had relays fail/hang/arc/introduce unanticipated high circuit resistance in my years of messing with cars and bikes.

IMHO the likelihood of either the controller failing to 'go to sleep' or a relay failing are both low, but the latter is higher. For the former the worst-case consequence is a dead battery hassle; for the latter the worst-case consequence is no trailer brakes, maybe when least expected.

Have fun with your Escape, your trailer, camping and bikes! I can relate to all of those.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, the trailer hauls a 2012 Goldwing Trike. We park the bike at the campsite and then instal three 2x4's across the trailer and lower the bed onto them with a boat type crank. The result is a toy hauler/camper complete with a heater and an air conditioner at about 1/20th the cost. Total weight is about 3000 lbs.

I may just take your advice and forget about the relay too.

Thank you for all your help !

PS: Hope you are not a Patriots fan.
 

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Lol, 'my' Cowboys missed the cut so no real 'stake' in this one (watch for 'us' next year ;-).

It's obviously not getting my undivided attention but must say the Falcons D has been particularly impressive.

Happy trails with your rig!
 

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Bought a set of heated mirrors to replace my 2015 non-heated ones and want to use the rear defroster power to power them instead of installing separate timed delay off relay to power them.
Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the rear defroster power and where is the convenient place to tap in order to power my side mirror heater with that circuit? Understand the power to the heating element is off of the relay from at the engine compartment but don’t know which wire to tap.
Any help is much appreciated and thanks in advance!
 

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Bought a set of heated mirrors to replace my 2015 non-heated ones and want to use the rear defroster power to power them instead of installing separate timed delay off relay to power them.
Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the rear defroster power and where is the convenient place to tap in order to power my side mirror heater with that circuit? Understand the power to the heating element is off of the relay from at the engine compartment but don’t know which wire to tap.
Any help is much appreciated and thanks in advance!
Never mind, bought a separate rear defroster relay and will wire a separate momentary switch to activate the relay.
 
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