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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello. Sorry for starting a new thread. My question is related to the rear caliper (piston). So let me start off with I thought I watched enough videos but clearly I missed the one key bit of useful information that would have saved me from even having to post on this forum.

In a nutshell I was trying to save a few hundred dollars (Canadian money) and was told that I needed about 1000 bucks worth of work, from what I can tell it must be mostly labor I would have been paying for. I found and bought the parts needed to replace my front and rear rotors and brake pads. All the right hardware was delivered to me.

made some plans with the youngest boy I have that has done quite a few rotor and pad changes himself. So we got started on the task at hand. We jacked up the rear and began disassembling both sides, got all the parts off and cleaned up ready to place the new hardware on. I do not own the compression tool to get the piston back into the housing, I have ordered one and it should arrive this week. The problem now is when we both were looking for howto's on this procedure, we never once stumbled on the procedure to enter the car into Maintenance MODE. ( i did not get a manual with the vehicle - used vehicle) arg. so guess what happened next and why I am posting here. We tried to enable the maintenance mode with no brake pads attached so there was no pressure to stop the emergency brake. so instead of getting into maintenance mode I have an error on the dash saying limited functionality, service required.

So the pistons are extremely extended but do not pop out of the house yet, but I don't think at this point I could even get the compression tool instead to start the depression process. Is there a way to resolve this on my own? I do not see any tearing on or around the rubber boot.

Would I be able to unplug the EBS from the socket and depending on the polarity of a manual connection retract the piston back in to a point where I can use the compression tool? Would the pressure I am getting on the piston currently release some pressure if I opened the bleeder valve?

Any thoughts or help would be appreciated.

thanks for your time.
Chris
 

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These have to be wound in or the EPB has to be put in maintenance mode.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
These have to be wound in or the EPB has to be put in maintenance mode.
Thanks for taking the time to reply, much appreciated. Ironically that is the exact clip I found after we tried doing the work. My problem is I am unable to enter maint. mode now .. I figure because there is no resistance for the piston / caliper to stop at, so trying to enable maint. mode is not working and causes a fault / error now and has extended the piston alot, almost touching other side of caliper.. not quite but close. I'd be quite relieved if I can just twist and decompress the piston when the tool arrives. There is quite a bit of force on the piston being extended so high yet, I'm expecting brake fluid leakage as I push down. This shouldn't be a surprise if I have some leakage right?
 

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Next thing to try after that is to wind in the caliper by hand with a caliper tool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks. Waiting for the tool to arrive tomorrow. So do you think I should attach a bleed hose to the bleed valve or just a catch basin under the caliper? I'm concerned because the piston is high up, doesn't that mean there is a bit of brake fluid in there to hold up the piston meaning as I try my best to compress that piston again doesn't that fluid need to go somewhere? Or because I'm using the tool it goes slow enough to make spillage a non issue and just run back into the brake line reservoir?

Thanks again.
Chris
 

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Try the deactivation procedure. I didn't think the 2017's screw in.

Deactivation
NOTE: Carry out the following service mode deactivation procedure to activate the EPB system.
1. Set the ignition to ON.
2. Press and hold the accelerator pedal and place the EPB switch in the APPLY (upward) position. Continue to hold the accelerator pedal and the EPB switch.
3. Set the ignition to OFF then set the ignition to ON within 5 seconds. Continue to hold the accelerator pedal and the EPB switch.
4. NOTE: The EPB system will fully apply and release the parking brake to guarantee sufficient air gap between the rear brake pads and brake disc.
Release the accelerator pedal and the EPB switch
 

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@gary407....he has gone too far with the job in dismantling things to do that sadly. The parking brake has no resistance. This deactivation procedure/maintenance mode only works if you enable it at the start of the brake job before removing anything.
 

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@gary407....he has gone too far with the job in dismantling things to do that sadly. The parking brake has no resistance. This deactivation procedure/maintenance mode only works if you enable it at the start of the brake job before removing anything.
Ok I understand what you are saying. Can you confirm if the piston is the screw in type on the 17's
 

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All of the rears with EPB (and even the 2013-2016 without) are screw in pistons.
These are "handed", so one side screws in clockwise and the other counter-clockwise.
 

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When you get your caliper tool if its the good kind it will push in at the same time you turn it in just do one side atva time the fluid will travel back up into your reservoir go easy with it dont try to get into a hurry
 

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When you get your caliper tool if its the good kind it will push in at the same time you turn it in just do one side atva time the fluid will travel back up into your reservoir go easy with it dont try to get into a hurry
And IMHO the best time to bleed your brake lines. Right when you get everything back together, but before you take them out of maintenance mode. That way you bleed out all the old fluid that has been pushed up into the lines. And then you get fresh fluid into your pistons when you apply the brakes for the first time.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Morning. Just a quick update. The caliper tool arrived and I was able to compress the piston back in, new rotors and pads are on and the brakes work. :) thanks everyone for your opinions and thoughts on this. Very much appreciated. The issue that I am encountering now though is a warning chime that goes on and on and on and does not seem to turn off until I remove the key from the ignition. it is chiming about the EPB and says to release it, it is not engaged. Just says limited parking break functionality and then a few moments later a red message comes up and says service EPB. I have tried to enable the maintenance mode again with all the parts installed, no luck at all. I also have gone as far as removing the battery connection for an hour to reset things. It did not help clear or reset the error. It seems to be stored somewhere from the last time I enabled maint mode without the resistance it need before I started the job originally and extended the pistons very far.

There are no other warning lights on the dash, no ABS messages no nothing, just the service EPB and a super obnoxious chime to keep reminding me I messed up. I do not own a OBD tool. From what i have read I am not sure a tool would help me reset it and hopefully get it to set a new home with the new pads on. Would it be worth taking the motor off each caliper and try rewinding the actuator rod by hand / torgue bit Does anyone have any thoughts? i'd be content just to have the dinging / chiming stop.

thanks again.
Chris
 

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Morning. Just a quick update. The caliper tool arrived and I was able to compress the piston back in, new rotors and pads are on and the brakes work. :) thanks everyone for your opinions and thoughts on this. Very much appreciated. The issue that I am encountering now though is a warning chime that goes on and on and on and does not seem to turn off until I remove the key from the ignition. it is chiming about the EPB and says to release it, it is not engaged. Just says limited parking break functionality and then a few moments later a red message comes up and says service EPB. I have tried to enable the maintenance mode again with all the parts installed, no luck at all. I also have gone as far as removing the battery connection for an hour to reset things. It did not help clear or reset the error. It seems to be stored somewhere from the last time I enabled maint mode without the resistance it need before I started the job originally and extended the pistons very far.

There are no other warning lights on the dash, no ABS messages no nothing, just the service EPB and a super obnoxious chime to keep reminding me I messed up. I do not own a OBD tool. From what i have read I am not sure a tool would help me reset it and hopefully get it to set a new home with the new pads on. Would it be worth taking the motor off each caliper and try rewinding the actuator rod by hand / torgue bit Does anyone have any thoughts? i'd be content just to have the dinging / chiming stop.

thanks again.
Chris
Buy a modded ELM327, download FORSscan, connect to the car and see what fault codes are stored and clear them. Plenty of tutorials on Forscan and Youtube on how it works. It sounds like you have created an error code when you did the maintenance mode after you stripped it down.

Incidentally, did your pistons just push back in or did you have to turn them in clockwise/counter clockwise. This is a decent ELM327.


This is better and what I have.


First item on the weblink below. FORScan for windows v.2.3.43 and it's free.

 

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You say you tried enabling maintenance mode again but have you tried disabling maintenance mode in case the car now 'thinks' it is in maintenance mode?
Apologize if you have already tried this...
 
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That's a good point @wiz043 - I missed that. Time to go to bed I think and it would appear cars shipped to the UK must have different calipers to the USA. Manual handbrake both sides wind in clockwise and EPB just push in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hey guys, thank you for getting back to me. Naw the pistons needed the compression tool and the drivers side went clockwise, passenger side was counter. I bit the bullet and grabbed the obdlink ex+ from Amazon. It was the only one I could get here in a couple of days. I wanted the USB one but was gonna be like 2 weeks to get here. I plan to check out FORscan and hope to get some results. I don't think the epb actuators are broke they appear to run .. hoping to figure something out. Hoping they are in an error state from memory. :) will keep ya'll updated eventually.
 

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Hey guys, thank you for getting back to me. Naw the pistons needed the compression tool and the drivers side went clockwise, passenger side was counter. I bit the bullet and grabbed the obdlink ex+ from Amazon. It was the only one I could get here in a couple of days. I wanted the USB one but was gonna be like 2 weeks to get here. I plan to check out FORscan and hope to get some results. I don't think the epb actuators are broke they appear to run .. hoping to figure something out. Hoping they are in an error state from memory. :) will keep ya'll updated eventually.
Looks like your rear calipers are different to the European Kuga. The OBDLink EX is a decent tool. I hope it's just a stored code that's causing you the trouble.
 
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