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I know, right? The day before that night my Escape turned into a 2-ton paperweight, I'd done plenty of driving, both on arterials and the freeway. It had sat for barely more than a day.

I'm still inclined to think that the SYNC software update is to blame, even if the dealer's service department are clueless. That's the only thing that's recently changed. For now I'll be keeping an eye on it, and hope the next update solves the problem (assuming it wasn't just a one-off thing).
I wonder if the software update may have either become stuck, or had a poor signal and kept on trying to update until the battery wore down. I could see that happening.
 

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If you have a vehicle that dies constantly open the hood when you get home from a drive. Come back after 45 min to an hour, there’s a pump on the firewall that sits low, that pump kicks on randomly on my vehicle. I’ve tried to figure out why it does and I have no idea why it does. The early days of the 2020 escape hybrids there is a code that Ford says to disregard in a TSB
IPC | U0293 : 82 : 0A


Lost Communication with Hybrid/EV Powertrain Control Module

the pump that runs randomly after shutdown I think is a symptom of this code and here’s why.
Vehicles now supply modules with 12 volts constantly and when you turn on the ignition it sends out a network signal over the CanBus to wake up the modules. If the instrument cluster looses communication with the hybrid power train control module it can’t get the shut down signal and that module turns on the pump in question then the module may still think the car is driving along, the issues is now it’s cold out and if you was driving along and the battery was cold that module would be calling for warm engine coolant to warm the battery because in my theory the module never gets its shutdown signal so when the temp dips it wants to warm up but the vehicle isn’t charging the battery and therefor it dies.
 

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I wonder if the software update may have either become stuck, or had a poor signal and kept on trying to update until the battery wore down. I could see that happening.
My Escape has never been able to connect to my home wi-fi network, so I download the updates to a USB drive and install them that way. But that does remind me that I should check the setting so that the system isn't trying to connect to my home network anyway.
 

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This just happened to me. I've had the 2020 Titanium Hybrid for a week. I've been driving it everyday. I think I'll add a group 48 AGM battery and a battery tender. I fly for work trips and the vehicle will be unused for a few weeks at a time.
 

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I sometimes walk past my car after it's been sitting idle for a few hours and it's like the vehicle is talking to me, it makes the weirdest noises. Something to do with it trying to connect the key?
 

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This just happened to me. I've had the 2020 Titanium Hybrid for a week. I've been driving it everyday. I think I'll add a group 48 AGM battery and a battery tender. I fly for work trips and the vehicle will be unused for a few weeks at a time.
Would putting a different battery in the car invalidate the manufacturer warranty?
 

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Would putting a different battery in the car invalidate the manufacturer warranty?
In the USA warrantied items are covered under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. A user or 3rd party can use items that are not made by the manufacturer and it will not void the warranty unless the manufacturer proves that the 3rd party item has caused the damage that the covered party wishes to have repaired under the warranty. The 3rd party item would not be covered under the vehicle warranty, but under the warranty of its manufacturer. I'm not sure what the law is in Canada.
 

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78872

This is the wet cell Mexican made 470 CCA H4 battery you have sitting in the trunk... No, you cannot be penalized for upgrading to an Advanced Glass Mat H6 (Group 48) 760 CCA battery. Your 2020 Escape Hybrid is already made to accept a larger H6 battery.


"I've seen several posts concerning the Escape Hybrid small factory 12 volt flooded H4 battery discharging while towing. It is only 45 AH, which isn't very much. I replaced it with an EverStart Platinum AGM which has 70 AH. The battery area under spare tire is designed to hold this larger H6 battery, and even includes a threaded hole for the battery hold down mount in the correct location to hold this battery in place... We can have the Escape Hybrid in tow mode for 8 hours, with RVi3 and wireless TowMate lights connected to battery, without it going dead."
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SMSgt USAF Retired

Blue Ox for 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid - Page 10 - iRV2 Forums
 

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This is the wet cell Mexican made 470 CCA H4 battery you have sitting in the trunk... No, you cannot be penalized for upgrading to an Advanced Glass Mat H6 (Group 48) 760 CCA battery. Your 2020 Escape Hybrid is already made to accept a larger H6 battery.


"I've seen several posts concerning the Escape Hybrid small factory 12 volt flooded H4 battery discharging while towing. It is only 45 AH, which isn't very much. I replaced it with an EverStart Platinum AGM which has 70 AH. The battery area under spare tire is designed to hold this larger H6 battery, and even includes a threaded hole for the battery hold down mount in the correct location to hold this battery in place... We can have the Escape Hybrid in tow mode for 8 hours, with RVi3 and wireless TowMate lights connected to battery, without it going dead."
__
SMSgt USAF Retired

Blue Ox for 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid - Page 10 - iRV2 Forums
Interesting. Thank you for the information. Do you have any idea if there is a BMS that must be reset as in non-hybrid Escapes?
 

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What the hell is a BMS?
:ROFLMAO: Battery Management System
No reset required. 12v battery in the hybrid is charged by a DC to DC converter from the High Voltage Battery, not from an alternator

Edit - According to the service person at the Ford dealership, the BMS does need to be put in a different mode for AGM battery.
 

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:ROFLMAO: Battery Management System
No reset required. 12v battery in the hybrid is charged by a DC to DC converter from the High Voltage Battery, not from an alternator
Thank you. I had learned that earlier but was unsure if there still was an algorithm that managed the battery charge for optimization.
 
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If you have a vehicle that dies constantly open the hood when you get home from a drive. Come back after 45 min to an hour, there’s a pump on the firewall that sits low, that pump kicks on randomly on my vehicle. I’ve tried to figure out why it does and I have no idea why it does. The early days of the 2020 escape hybrids there is a code that Ford says to disregard in a TSB
IPC | U0293 : 82 : 0A


Lost Communication with Hybrid/EV Powertrain Control Module

the pump that runs randomly after shutdown I think is a symptom of this code and here’s why.
Vehicles now supply modules with 12 volts constantly and when you turn on the ignition it sends out a network signal over the CanBus to wake up the modules. If the instrument cluster looses communication with the hybrid power train control module it can’t get the shut down signal and that module turns on the pump in question then the module may still think the car is driving along, the issues is now it’s cold out and if you was driving along and the battery was cold that module would be calling for warm engine coolant to warm the battery because in my theory the module never gets its shutdown signal so when the temp dips it wants to warm up but the vehicle isn’t charging the battery and therefor it dies.

So in February, after purchasing the 202 Ford Escape Titanium Hybrid on Black Friday, the thing turns into a paper weight over night. No warning, no indicators, just plain "Its dead Jim!" We had to jump start it and that seemed to work so we drove it for about 30 minutes. While driving the car "texted" us and it popped up on the Ford app that:

Malfunction Indicator Lamp Dash Regulatory - Power Train Control Module has detected the power relay de-energized earlier than expected

Power Train Malfunction / Reduced Power - Illuminates when the system has detected a power train or 4wd fault

Malfunction Indicator Lamp Dash Regulatory - Engine Timer Concern

We took the car to the car in to the dealer, they looked at it and said there was nothing that they could find wrong with the car, they ran test and besides a dead battery they found nothing and nothing came up in any "Service Alert Bulletins". They said that because we have a plug in dash cam that this was the reason the battery died.

The camera had been in the car for 5-6 weeks and we took a really long trip three to four days before the car went dead. Interestingly enough, I had noticed that our "economy" was stuck at around 34.1 to 34.5 MPG combine average prior to taking in the vehicle. After getting the vehicle back we are up to 38+MPG combined and rising. While I can understand that the 12V plug is hot all the time and I should have gotten a hardwire kit (purchased it recently and need to install it), I find it hard to believe that in the 2 months of driving with the camera there were no issues and then, boom, issues. I did do the Sync upgrade over Wi-Fi in my driveway that did not take but 10 minutes if that. So I'm wondering if the Sync upgrade screwed our vehicle up too. And I too would want the bigger battery, but fear that will void the warranty that I have. Didn't tell us that a bigger battery was an option.
 

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@NorbertD ...It is possible that over time your dashcam could have flattened/damaged the battery even though you did a long trip 3 or 4 days before the battery went dead.
How long was the car garaged/parked after your trip and previous trips? You may have to keep an eye on the battery going forward in case the dashcam may have permanently affected the charge rate based on the behaviour you have experienced with the car.

Hopefully it will be ok. ;)
 

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The camera had been in the car for 5-6 weeks and we took a really long trip three to four days before the car went dead. I did do the Sync upgrade over Wi-Fi in my driveway that did not take but 10 minutes if that.
That would be enough to discharge the 45AH battery... Consider maintaining your 12V battery's state of charge to prevent deterioration from sulfation and subsequent breakdowns.

Energizer ENC4A - InverterSupply.com

Amazon.com: Energizer ENC8A ENC8A 8-Amp Battery Charger/Maintainer: Automotive
 

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@NorbertD ...It is possible that over time your dashcam could have flattened/damaged the battery even though you did a long trip 3 or 4 days before the battery went dead.
How long was the car garaged/parked after your trip and previous trips? You may have to keep an eye on the battery going forward in case the dashcam may have permanently affected the charge rate based on the behaviour you have experienced with the car.

Hopefully it will be ok. ;)
We drive the car daily for the most part. Not great distances considering COVID. We mainly take short 10-15 minute drives to the store and back. That week we drove the really long 250 mile trip and then the car was not driven for a day and a half, maybe 2 days total. Then the battery was dead, no computer screen, no fob opening the door, we had to use a key to get into the car.
 

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We drive the car daily for the most part. Not great distances considering COVID. We mainly take short 10-15 minute drives to the store and back. That week we drove the really long 250 mile trip and then the car was not driven for a day and a half, maybe 2 days total. Then the battery was dead, no computer screen, no fob opening the door, we had to use a key to get into the car.
If the camera was plugged in when parked for one or two days that would be enough to finish the battery off given the previous circumstances.
Hopefully it will hold it's charge now...:)
 

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This may be unrelated, but our 2015 MKZ 12V batteries kept dying. Re-flashing the power trunk module seems to have solved the issue of communication issues with other modules in the car. A YouTube video pointed us in the right direction.
 
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