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2020 Ford Escape Hybrid - replace 12 volt battery with larger Group 48 AGM

51441 Views 169 Replies 56 Participants Last post by  Jaxpony
Here's a quick how to video that I made showing replacing the stock 12v 45AH lead acid battery with a 12v 70AH AGM battery.
Some folks have had issues with the stock 12v battery running down and not being able to unlock the vehicle, or start it by remote, or some to even start it at all, as it is needed to engage the relays for the high voltage battery. Some also get the "Deep Sleep" message in the FordPass app that indicates a low battery voltage for the 12v battery.
Adding a larger AGM battery helps to prevent these issues.
Besides topping up the AGM battery prior to install, it took about 20 minutes.

Edit - The 12 volt battery is under the floor in the rear cargo area. In the Titanium hybrid, the spare tire covers it, so remove the spare tire to see it. In the SE hybrid, there is no spare tire, so you'll see it once you lift up the floor of the rear cargo area. - Edit

Here is the battery that I used because I found one for $125! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FWCLHU
But any Group 48 AGM 12 volt battery will work. (Also called size H6)

Edit 2 - Thanks to a tip, I checked with the Ford service department and they said they do need to reset the BMS for an AGM battery. - Edit 2

Edit 3 - If you want to keep it all Ford, or have the dealer do it, here is the Ford battery:
Part #: BAGM48H6760 (48H6)
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/electrical/battery-and-related-components/battery-7862483-1 - Edit 3



For everyone asking, here is the BMS reset procedure
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It worked on my Hybrid and I watched the tech do it on my car. No Forscan needed on my car , 2017 fusion hybrid and my sons 2020 F350 diesel
The discussion should be limited to 2020 and newer Escapes only.
Just joining this party with my 2020 Escape SE Sport Hybrid AWD. The battery depleted in less than 24 hours. The whole ordeal of "deep sleep mode", not being able to use the key fob to unlock or lock doors, trying to jump start it and it not holding the charge beyond an hour or so is very frustrating. Called a tow truck, then the car actually started up, so I high-tailed it to the Ford dealer and dropped it off. They claim the AGM is not necessary, nor is it a proper fit or appropriate for the vehicle and that their technician has never seen one in a hybrid Escape. Also that my extended warranty won't cover it. How much nonsense can one person deal with? So my point for this rant is, how do I tell them AGM will indeed fit and work?
Just put one in yourself. Or take it to an independent battery shop and have them do it.
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What's a typical resting voltage of the 12v battery? I have a 2022 PHEV with the small 45AH stock battery that doesn't seem to fully charge the 12v battery despite being driven at least 40 minutes a day and plugged into the wall to charge every day for a few hours. Using a cigarette lighter voltmeter, it's showing 12.2V-12.3V resting voltage. The charging algorithm seems to be working properly. When the car is plugged into the wall, the cigarette lighter is showing ~14.6V. When it's unplugged, but car is in drive or 'ready' mode, the voltage is showing around 13.1V showing DC to DC conversion from high voltage traction battery to 12v battery. When I turn off the car, but turn on the radio by pressing the volume knob, I see 12.2-12.4V.

So I am perplexed as to why the battery seems to be always at 12.2-12.3V instead of more typical 12.6V for 100% charge. Is it because I am measuring it from the cigarette lighter?

I've tried changing the 'Target State of Charge' in Forscan. I've set it to 80%, 100%, and 120% (stock value), and it doesn't seem to affect it.
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What's a typical resting voltage of the 12v battery? I have a 2022 PHEV with the small 45AH stock battery that doesn't seem to fully charge the 12v battery despite being driven at least 40 minutes a day and plugged into the wall to charge every day for a few hours. Using a cigarette lighter voltmeter, it's showing 12.2V-12.3V resting voltage. The charging algorithm seems to be working properly. When the car is plugged into the wall, the cigarette lighter is showing ~14.6V. When it's unplugged, but car is in drive or 'ready' mode, the voltage is showing around 13.1V showing DC to DC conversion from high voltage traction battery to 12v battery. When I turn off the car, but turn on the radio by pressing the volume knob, I see 12.2-12.4V.

So I am perplexed as to why the battery seems to be always at 12.2-12.3V instead of more typical 12.6V for 100% charge. Is it because I am measuring it from the cigarette lighter?

I've tried changing the 'Target State of Charge' in Forscan. I've set it to 80%, 100%, and 120% (stock value), and it doesn't seem to affect it.
The resting voltage of a fully charged 12v flooded lead acid battery should be 12.8 volts at the battery. Rule of thumb is 100% @12.8v, 75% @12.6v, 50% @12.4v, 25% @12.2v.
('Rested' means fully charged and allowed to sit, no load, for 24 hours @ 68-74°f)

Minimum charging voltage should be 13.8 volts to a maximum of 14.4 volts.

While I'd certainly expect to see some voltage loss at the accessory socket, your numbers seem really low. That said, the cigarette lighter meter is likely to be be inaccurate. I'd certainly compare it to the readings at the terminals from a good multimeter ( FLUKE77 at the least).
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The resting voltage of a fully charged 12v flooded lead acid battery should be 12.8 volts at the battery. Rule of thumb is 100% @12.8v, 75% @12.6v, 50% @12.4v, 25% @12.2v.
('Rested' means fully charged and allowed to sit, no load, for 24 hours @ 68-74°f)

Minimum charging voltage should be 13.8 volts to a maximum of 14.4 volts.

While I'd certainly expect to see some voltage loss at the accessory socket, your numbers seem really low. That said, the cigarette lighter meter is likely to be be inaccurate. I'd certainly compare it to the readings at the terminals from a good multimeter ( FLUKE77 at the least).
Thanks for the info. It's concerning considering I've only had it for 2 months and it was built just 4 months ago. I don't have a fluke multimeter, but I do have some $30 ones that I will use to test.

I also have a trickle charger that I can attach to the car to see if it'll charge fully and how the car behaves then.
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Question #4 – People talk about a BMS Battery “Days in Service” but I can’t find that setting. Where should I look in FORScan (I’d like to see what it is “now” before changing the battery)?
Hey, if you're still wondering about this, I found it in Forscan. It's using the live data tab. Look at this youtube video:

The battery voltage, day in service, current, and state of charge is in bdycm (body control module).
Has anyone tried the Walmart EverStart Platinum AGM H6?

EverStart Platinum at Walmart

At $170, it's $10 cheaper than the Interstate AGM H6 from Costco and it comes with 4 year warranty instead of 3 years.

From what I've read, both batteries are made by Varta in Germany so it's likely to be identical. The longer warranty is nice, but I'm sure they're harder to deal with than Costco.
The discussion should be limited to 2020 and newer Escapes only.
I was speaking of my 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid
The discussion should be limited to 2020 and newer Escapes only.
I was referring to my 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid(which worked as I saw the tech at the dealer to it with me watching ) I was mentioning the other two vehicles as that reset process worked on all THREE vehicles stating the years of the vehicles for a reference as to the process of the manual reset
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