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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
At 3224 miles, my vehicle would not start one morning. After several day at the local Ford dealership, to await an appointment date, they determined that the battery (12 volt) was dead. Cleared codes, re-charged the battery without a clue as to why this happened.
Therefore, I am not confident that this will cure the issue for good.
Any thoughts?
 

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At 3224 miles, my vehicle would not start one morning. After several day at the local Ford dealership, to await an appointment date, they determined that the battery (12 volt) was dead. Cleared codes, re-charged the battery without a clue as to why this happened.
Therefore, I am not confident that this will cure the issue for good.
Any thoughts?
How long since you had driven the vehicle? For how many miles. What engine? Do you have S/S? Do you have any non oem items connected? You also might check the 3G board for similar posts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How long since you had driven the vehicle? For how many miles. What engine? Do you have S/S? Do you have any non oem items connected? You also might check the 3G board for similar posts.
I drove the vehicle on 12/31/2020 and parked it in my driveway late that afternoon. The total mileage is 3,224, since August 2020, when I purchased the vehicle. Engine type is 99Z (I think), FWD only. I did not attempt to operate the vehicle on 1/1/2021. However on the morning of 1/2/2021, the battery was apparently dead. I had it "jumped" and drove it for about 20 minutes. About an hour later, dead battery, again. My VIN# 1FMCU0DZ1LUB70953. I'm not sure what S/S means. Can that be determined in my VIN #? The only NON-OEM items in or on the vehicle are Weather Tech floor mats. I am not familiar with the 3G board.
 

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I drove the vehicle on 12/31/2020 and parked it in my driveway late that afternoon. The total mileage is 3,224, since August 2020, when I purchased the vehicle. Engine type is 99Z (I think), FWD only. I did not attempt to operate the vehicle on 1/1/2021. However on the morning of 1/2/2021, the battery was apparently dead. I had it "jumped" and drove it for about 20 minutes. About an hour later, dead battery, again. My VIN# 1FMCU0DZ1LUB70953. I'm not sure what S/S means. Can that be determined in my VIN #? The only NON-OEM items in or on the vehicle are Weather Tech floor mats. I am not familiar with the 3G board.
S/S is referring to the stop/start system. If that is not working it is normally because there is a problem with the battery not charged fully or not retaining it's charge.
This usually occurs if the car has not been driven for some time or you have been doing many short trips even if the battery is fairly new as it is in your case.
If you have stop/start feature and it's functioning ok that is a good sign that your battery is fully charged.
 

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If you car does "die" again because of a dead battery I would ask a mechanic to do a parasitic draw test. What happens sometimes is that the electronics of the car might get goofy and start turning on by itself for some reason. Even if it's something very small it can slowly drain the battery to a point where you can charge the battery but eventually it'll lose that charge to the parasitic draw. Some things such as loose wire or a bad ground can cause parasitic draw.
 
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Some Rav4 hybrid owners have been experiencing same issue with 12v battery dead by some ghost draw if car not used for several days.
 

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.........Engine type is 99Z (I think), FWD only.
2020 Ford Escape Hybrids have a 2.5L Atkinson cycle engine.

BTW a jump starter battery may come in handy. Here’s the one I have:

 
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I drove the vehicle on 12/31/2020 and parked it in my driveway late that afternoon. The total mileage is 3,224, since August 2020, when I purchased the vehicle. Engine type is 99Z (I think), FWD only. I did not attempt to operate the vehicle on 1/1/2021. However on the morning of 1/2/2021, the battery was apparently dead. I had it "jumped" and drove it for about 20 minutes. About an hour later, dead battery, again. My VIN# 1FMCU0DZ1LUB70953. I'm not sure what S/S means. Can that be determined in my VIN #? The only NON-OEM items in or on the vehicle are Weather Tech floor mats. I am not familiar with the 3G board.
More specifically: do you have the 2.5 hybrid, the 1.5 liter ecoboost, or the 2.0 ecoboost engine. I need that information in order to give you a best guess. Are the trips you make almost daily long or short? The 3G section on this board is in the main menu. If you have either of the ecoboost engines, chances are your issue is already addressed by multiple posts and answers.
 

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More specifically: do you have the 2.5 hybrid, the 1.5 liter ecoboost, or the 2.0 ecoboost engine. I need that information in order to give you a best guess.
@ralph7up the title says 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid Titanium.
 
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@ralph7up the title says 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid Titanium.
Doesn’t mean anything. Some members post in threads with engines that don’t match the thread title. That’s why confirmation is sometimes needed.
 

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Doesn’t mean anything. Some members post in threads with engines that don’t match the thread title. That’s why confirmation is sometimes needed.
So you’re telling me the OP didn’t write the title....
 

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@ralph7up the title says 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid Titanium.
Thanks. Missed that. Too used to seeing in text or signature line. Poster then has the 2.5 Atkinson engine with battery as for engine starting and no S/S per se. it is the hybrid. Likely that owner got a bad 12 volt battery.
 
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At 3224 miles, my vehicle would not start one morning. After several day at the local Ford dealership, to await an appointment date, they determined that the battery (12 volt) was dead. Cleared codes, re-charged the battery without a clue as to why this happened.
Therefore, I am not confident that this will cure the issue for good.
Any thoughts?
Look for the build date on the sticker on the driver's side door jamb. Your 12v battery could have gone bad if it sat on the dealer's lot for months before you bought it, then if you drive it infrequently, It may not be able to accept an adequate charge. I would have the battery load tested (surprised the dealer didn't do that).
 

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Your 12V battery is kept charged with current from your Hybrid battery power only... You may well consider upgrading your 12V battery if your Ford dealer won't replace it on warranty.

Ironically, this happened to me yesterday. I was using the car 24 hours before. It was completely dead 24 hours later, no power anywhere. Called roadside and they jumped it. I ended up using Sport mode and driving in circles. Really wish there was a way to manage starter battery better, and was hoping the Fordpass app would at least pop up a warning for me before it discharged.
"Decided to quit screwing around with the Ford tiny battery and took your advice. I bought a H6 (group 48) AGM battery. You are right it exactly fits the space in the trunk where the original battery was mounted. Once I was in there I set up a parasitic test to see if there were any large current draws. My amp meter could only go down to 100 mA where it would read 0.01, so I suspect the draw is lower. Anyway, I am hoping the larger battery takes care of the strange behaviors I have been seeing. I'll post how it goes over time."

Blue Ox for 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid - Page 6 - iRV2 Forums

12V battery may also be maintained with an automatic charger connected to the Jump Start connectors... 12V battery actually sits in the trunk underneath spare tire.

JUMP STARTING THE VEHICLE - HYBRID ELECTRIC VEHICLE (HEV)/PLUG-IN HYBRID ELECTRIC VEHICLE (PHEV)

Your vehicle has a 12-volt battery that has two prongs accessible from under the hood. Your vehicle can be jumped the same way conventional vehicles can by using these prongs.
78460

A - Positive prong (+). Pull the red plastic cap backward.

B - Negative prong (-).

 

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A - Positive prong (+). Pull the red rubber boot backward.

B - Negative prong (-).
This maybe obvious but I’ll ask anyway. I tried to pull the red rubber boot backward but it wouldn’t move. Jiggles around a bit but firmly in place. Is there a trick to doing this?
 

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This maybe obvious but I’ll ask anyway. I tried to pull the red rubber boot backward but it wouldn’t move. Jiggles around a bit but firmly in place. Is there a trick to doing this?
I should have said: Instead of a red rubber boot I have a red hard plastic cover over the positive post.
 

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I had exactly same issue ... my car (same model as OP) had similar mileage (3200) and was driven every 2-3 days since purchase at the end of July. It was dropped off for subwoofer fix on Monday, returned on Tuesday, was driven to/from work on Wednesday, and dead on Thursday. A jumpstart from Roadside took care of the issue, and I bought a portable jumpstart battery in case this happens again. Interesting though, I didn't realize that a larger battery could fit in that space.
 

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It is a Ford after all, and not a Japanese engineered Toyota RAV4... I'm actually here because my sister got a 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid Titanium last spring.

The best you can do is use an automatic battery charger to maintain your 12V battery.

12V battery can be upgraded to a larger H6 in the Hybrid, as it sits in the trunk underneath spare tire. That is not the case with your 2019 Escape Titanium Turbo. Its battery is behind fuse box on driver's side, I think.
 

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Along the same lines I purchased my 2019 escape titanium turbo in December of 2019. The start stop feature worked for about a month and then it didn't. I took the car back to the dealer and they put in a new battery. The start stop feature worked up until 2 months ago. I just brought the car in in December for a yearly oil change at 2,056 miles at which time I asked them to check out the auto start stop and why it isn't working. I picked up the car and was told I don't drive it enough to charge the battery which start stop feature needs. And I would have to put the battery on a trickle charge to keep it at optimum level so the start stop feature would work. that means I would have to drive my car more than I want to just to ensure the battery is at optimum charge. Never heard of such a thing. The escape is not my only vehicle and I really don't drive my car other than around town. Furthermore it's a little difficult charging the battery when the positive terminal is inaccessible. Since the car is still under warranty I have requested a new battery but that in itself has created a problem because I was advised by the dealer they are on back order. I am disappointed that this vehicle and others like it are experiencing such problems and inconveniencing the owners. I question the pride in workmanship.
Your dealer is correct in saying the stop/start feature will not work unless the battery is at it's optimum charge. If you do not drive the vehicle much or only take short trips you are probably wise to put the battery on a trickle charger as advised unless you take it for a regular 30 mile or more trip.
Many modern cars these days need the battery to be fully charged for all the current technology to work properly, not only Fords.
I think you will find that the negative terminal is under the cowl and you do not need to access it to attach the charger as there is an extension to it under a bolt on the firewall or strut tower as shown here:-

 
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