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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, Today i replaced the rear speakers in my 2020 Ford Escape Titanium with the factory premium B & O sound system.
Lessons learned, don't cheap out, get good component speakers. I bought NVX VSP65KIT, Somewhat junk. I say that because the screw mounts are positioned that if you are not careful, you will rip the speaker. they are poorly designed. You can tell by looking at the cone they are made for an amplifier.
The tweeters were too big, had to cut the hole from the original tweeters. If i could do it again, I would have bought 6 3/4 in speakers, Plenty of room for them.
You need a 7mm and 8mm socket, a pry tool for door removal, a tiny flat screw driver, speaker spacer kit and speaker cables, a soldering gun, flux, and speaker wire.and a cloth to protect your paint when you're prying the door off which is a bit unnerving..I used the 9.95 Crutchfield instructions, you can buy, don't ask me to give them out. I don't want to get sued.
It took me all day.
My installation was NOT to replace the B & O amplifier so I installed the component speakers without the crossovers as the original speakers and tweeters are already fed the correct frequencies from the B&O amp.
After i removed the original speakers i cut out sound deadening material and applied it to the door through the speaker hole.
This setup will not give you more bass, but it will give you high end CLEAN sound. The tweeters on this NVX system are crisp good sounding. I had to turn the treble way down.
Since i didn't replace the front door speakers, dash speakers or hooked up an amp and a better subwoofer, the system is a bit lopsided, better sounding in the rear, stock up front. I plan to replace ALL the cheap Chinese speakers from the B & O System.
There are 2 screws under the hand rest once you pry it up from the back.'There is a screw behind the red lens which you pry from the back. There is a screw behind the door handle, pry that plastic panel out with a small thin flat screwdriver. There are 2 screws on the perimeter of the interior panel. They only allow 10 photos..so i am leaving out a lot that i took. Prying off the door panel was the unnerving part. You feel like you are going to break something. Takes a lot of pressure. The original speakers are 4 ohm.
I'm not good at posting so i hope all 10 pics show up.By the way, the end result sounds a lot better. Oh, you can Youtube any other escape door panel removal, or a 2016 ford focus door removal. I swear this was exactly like my former 2016 focus panel removal.
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Discussion Starter #2
Given this setup some afterthought. Looking at the Crutchfield wiring diagrams, the rear tweeters don't have their own output from the B&O amp. I think the tweeters are wired to the woofers and not on their own feed from the B&O amp so i need to install some bass blockers or a crossover..I think the NVX woofer in this photo with the hard cardboard ring around it is not the speaker that is advertised on the box and i already wrote to the seller about it. I may be removing these and installing some 6 3/4 Memphis audio component speakers instead.
 

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Try using the supplied crossovers.

I learned how to design loudspeakers a few years back. It involves measuring the drivers' electrical and loudness responses across audible frequencies, and then combining the driver responses with electrical components using software to predict a driver/crossover combination that gives minimal linear and non-linear distortion over the power range of the drivers. Add an enclosure based on T/S parameters, and you can create one fine speaker.

With what I've learned, I would never consider changing drivers unless I was changing crossovers as well, preferably after characterizing the new drivers in-vehicle. Try using NVX XO circuits.

Looking at your pictures, and NVX specs, Ford's drivers are not conspicuously inferior, just rated for half the power. The NVX mid-woofers have a stamped steel basket, an upgrade over what looks like cast plastic in the OEM, but they're still 2mm Xmax drivers, so no great excursion is expected. Ford's smaller neodymium magnet is likely every bit the equal of the big NVX ferrite. Ford's voice coil looks smaller, but again, this is a small, low-excursion mid-woofer, so there's not much advantage to a larger one unless you want more power handling. The NVX is very likely also Chinese.

Stay well,
Frank
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I looked at the NVX website and none of these speakers have this cardboard ring. I am going to see if i can remove it without ripping the speakers. As i said in my follow up post, i think the tweeter plug connector is wired in parallel with the woofer so yes it needs the crossover. There isn't much room inside the door behind the speaker to mount it and it means i have to drill a hole in the door metal to route wires. I may work on it tomorrow as i have tons of yardwork to do first, lol. If there's anything interesting to post picture wise, I'll add some follow up picks. I was rushing yesterday to install these and it took me 6 hours, but now that i have experience to take apart the doors, it should go a lot quicker.
 

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UPDATE: Ok never rush when installing speakers like i did the first time. These speakers aren't junk, they are actually good for the back doors. I will put Sony 6 1/2's in the front. They are more expensive at 250.00 a pair. I looked at the wiring diagram, the tweeters are fed off the woofer and they have a capacitor on the tweeter to filter out the bass. I installed the NVX Crossover and mounted it using double sided tape right under the woofer.. Next are the front door speakers, then dash, then I will write about taking the subwoofer out. I will run 12v power from the battery to the back to power a Sony amp and install a 10" Sony subwoofer.
 

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Update today: I installed the Sony XS-GS1621C woofers in the front doors using their crossover, and installed the tweeters in the dash no crossover as the tweeters are fed from the head unit they are already bass cut, and there's no way to wire them into the doors easily. It is totally DIY with the tweeters. I had to use a dremel tool to trim a metal ring and the original rear ford tweeter covers to install the Sony tweeters. It took all day. With all but the center speaker replaced, so far, the sound is crystal clear. I can hear things in the music i never heard before. The tweeters are loud so i had to turn the treble down. No Muddy sound. I also ran a positive wire from the battery thru the firewall to the back for the next project, to remove the right rear panel to the subwoofer. It is a big project as you have to remove a lot of trim pieces.
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Those stock woofers look a bit average for a B&O "Premium" sound system.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I agree. They looked like crap. I will also state I'm not sure how Crutchfield can say that you can install 2 way coaxial speakers into the doors. Possibly only if you wire them through the ford passage between the door and the body (an impossible task), and run the wire to a new separate amp. I purchased some coax Infinity speakers and installed them. The tweeters didn't work because of Fords BO amp and the woofers cracked on high bass. Possibly if you have a standard stereo system, not the B&O, then you may be able to use coax in the doors. I sent them back to Amazon. These Sony separates handle the bass very well in the front doors. Next step I'll be looking at using a PAC APH-FD02 speaker cable running to High Impedience inputs on a Sony amp to run the door speakers at higher power. I am not a purist that needs absolute flat response to go into a sound processor. If the cheaper alternative doesn't work then I'll look into the NAV-TV adapter for $500+ dollars.
 

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I (or one of the other Mods) can do it- what do you want it changed to?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Center speaker removal is pretty easy. I want to make note, if you think the whole system is going to get louder just by replacing all the speakers, it won't. You get a cleaner clearer sound, but the volume still peaks out quickly. I replaced the center speaker today with a Rockford Fosgate speaker. I have one left over to sell. Some modification was needed to make it fit. You have to use a dremel tool to gently grind the mounting ring around the speaker and grind off the sharp angles on the mounting tabs. Also, unsolder the connector from the B&O Speaker and solder it to the new one you are installing. Pretty simple. Prying out the grill, start at a corner, use 2 pry devices as you'll see in the pics there are a lot of tabs.
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Discussion Starter #12
A more appropriate title would be 2020 Titanium Escape B&O speaker replacement. I plan on starting a new thread for the subwoofer removal.
 

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Hi, I pryed them out with a tiny flat screwdriver on one of the edges, pry them out slowly, then unplug the connector. I used the grills from the back tweeters with a metal ring that came with my NVX tweeters which had to be dremel tooled down to fit. I press fit the Sony tweeters into the hole. I connected them using the blue tap connectors that you can buy at an auto parts store.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I don't recommend the Punch tweeters, I have to listen to them a little more, but what everyone says about them that they buzz at certain notes happened to me. I am looking at some other brand.Anyway, they dont fit without alot of dremel tool grinding.
 
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