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Abs problem?

6696 Views 26 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  kent.bell159
Wife has 2013 Escape titanium awd. She is currently 360 miles away watching the grandkids. Started driving and abs and tc light comes on. I did a search on here and saw that it could be abs speed sensor. She went to Autozone and used their scan tool. Nine codes came up, now at a loss. The codes are c0040-86,c0034-07, c0040-87, u3f10-78, u0001-80, u0101-00, uu0100-00, u0037-07 and u0136-00. I understand some of these codes, brake pedal switch, rf and lr abs speed sensor, traction control and lost communication with ecm/pcm. Any ideas on where to start. Battery and alternator are good. Roads where she is are bump. Maybe something came loose. This is the first major issue (besides battery) in 206k miles. She is supposed to be coming back next Saturday. I have obd module and for scan here at home. In your opinion do you think she’ll be able to get back okay? Thanks
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It will mean that both your traction control and ABS functions will not work or will not work correctly. It will be like driving a car from 20 years or so ago. My Kuga is the first car I have had with traction control so I wouldn't be too bothered about that. If it was me I would be driving the car home, but that is me and it would be wrong for me to advise you to do the same.

I wouldn't trust any codes that were from a generic device tbh.

It is more than likely an ABS sensor that has failed. FORScan wlll tell you which one. Make sure you replace it with EXACTLY the same part that comes off and ignore the guy at the shop if he tells you your VIN number says it's a different one. It has to be the same part number.
It will mean that both your traction control and ABS functions will not work or will not work correctly. It will be like driving a car from 20 years or so ago. My Kuga is the first car I have had with traction control so I wouldn't be too bothered about that. If it was me I would be driving the car home, but that is me and it would be wrong for me to advise you to do the same.

I wouldn't trust any codes that were from a generic device tbh.

It is more than likely an ABS sensor that has failed. FORScan wlll tell you which one. Make sure you replace it with EXACTLY the same part that comes off and ignore the guy at the shop if he tells you your VIN number says it's a different one. It has to be the same part number.
I was thinking that she would be able to drive it home. I also told here that she can turn off driver assist and traction control in the settings. Autozone used an Innova 5210 don’t know how good it is. Hey that for the advice
It could be worthwhile checking the battery negative terminal for corrosion.
Make sure you replace it with EXACTLY the same part that comes off and ignore the guy at the shop if he tells you your VIN number says it's a different one. It has to be the same part number.
If you buy from FORD, the PN will go by VIN entry on the CDP (parts cataloging) (or referring TSB). This will give you the current correct service PN. The visual number ID on any part is an ENGINEERING NO that does not change over time but the SERVICE PN may.

If ABS is disabled, there will be no hydraulic valving as was present in pre-ABS (proportioning - metering two examples). The ABS MODULE/HCU does that on an ABS equipped car. You may (your decision) drive it but if you encounter a hard braking event, the car may not respond correctly.

You will find the DIAGNOSTIC SEQUENCE in your FORD SHOP MANUAL or some scan tools may have a diagnostic sequence.
If you buy from FORD, the PN will go by VIN entry on the CDP (parts cataloging) (or referring TSB). This will give you the current correct service PN. The visual number ID on any part is an ENGINEERING NO that does not change over time but the SERVICE PN may.

If ABS is disabled, there will be no hydraulic valving as was present in pre-ABS (proportioning - metering two examples). The ABS MODULE/HCU does that on an ABS equipped car. You may (your decision) drive it but if you encounter a hard braking event, the car may not respond correctly.

You will find the DIAGNOSTIC SEQUENCE in your FORD SHOP MANUAL or some scan tools may have a diagnostic sequence.
I was just told the battery posts and cables were all good , no corrosion. Reading some other abs sensor posts, I will only be using Ford parts for the sensors.
I was just told the battery posts and cables were all good , no corrosion. Reading some other abs sensor posts, I will only be using Ford parts for the sensors.
Make sure brake fluid level is @ FULL. How dirty (color) is the fluid?
Replacing the speed sensor is easy, too. Had to do one earlier this year. Here is my service log entry.

Information light on and ABC and TSC icons illuminated. “Hill start assist not available and” and “4WD temporarily disabled” messages. Comes and goes. Finally, lights off, and “4wd restored’ displayed. FORSCAN to check: DTCs in ABS: C003A:11-28, C003A:07-68, C003A:4A-28. Order rear wheel speed sensor at Rockauto.com: $27.89. mail: $2.99. tax: $1.74.

Only, the part wasn't delivered to my house. Wanted to get it done, so I went to my Ford dealer. He didn't have it in stock. He searched and two nearby dealers had it. My dealer wrote down the part number. Good thing he did.

I called another dealer and he pulled the part for me and said it would be at the counter. Drove to get it, and it was a different number than the part my dealer pulled. I said, "Colonial Ford wrote down -B. This is -A." It was the front. I needed the rear. He checked the part numbers. He apologized that he pulled the wrong part from the bin. Good think I had the right part number from my dealer with me. :)

USPS tracked down where my Rockauto sensor was delivered to by GPS and it was delivered a day later.
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Wife has 2013 Escape titanium awd. She is currently 360 miles away watching the grandkids. Started driving and abs and tc light comes on. I did a search on here and saw that it could be abs speed sensor. She went to Autozone and used their scan tool. Nine codes came up, now at a loss. The codes are c0040-86,c0034-07, c0040-87, u3f10-78, u0001-80, u0101-00, uu0100-00, u0037-07 and u0136-00. I understand some of these codes, brake pedal switch, rf and lr abs speed sensor, traction control and lost communication with ecm/pcm. Any ideas on where to start. Battery and alternator are good. Roads where she is are bump. Maybe something came loose. This is the first major issue (besides battery) in 206k miles. She is supposed to be coming back next Saturday. I have obd module and for scan here at home. In your opinion do you think she’ll be able to get back okay? Thanks
If you're getting codes on so many seemingly unrelated processes, I would suspect either a ground issue (very common in an older vehicle) or corrosion in a wiring harness connector. Are you in the frozen north with salty winter roads? You'll need more than a code reader to track this problem down; a scan tool will be required.
Having BTDT, I'd bet on a rear wheel sensor. Here is my writeup on replacing it.
2013 SEL AWD Rear Wheel Sensor replacement

I turned off the Traction Control and was able to drive it without issues until I could get the part. Happened twice (both rear wheels) in three months. Part cost was $19 the first time and $37 the second time.

Good luck!
Having BTDT, I'd bet on a rear wheel sensor. Here is my writeup on replacing it.
2013 SEL AWD Rear Wheel Sensor replacement

I turned off the Traction Control and was able to drive it without issues until I could get the part. Happened twice (both rear wheels) in three months. Part cost was $19 the first time and $37 the second time.

Good luck!
Having BTDT, I'd bet on a rear wheel sensor. Here is my writeup on replacing it.
2013 SEL AWD Rear Wheel Sensor replacement

I turned off the Traction Control and was able to drive it without issues until I could get the part. Happened twice (both rear wheels) in three months. Part cost was $19 the first time and $37 the second time.

Good luck!
Wife talked me into driving to where she is on Friday. Going to check out codes with forscan. Don’t know if dealer will have part in stock there. But leaving on Saturday morning to come back home. Your writeup I already had saved when I was searching on how to replace them. Straightforward is nice. Thanks
Wife has 2013 Escape titanium awd. She is currently 360 miles away watching the grandkids. Started driving and abs and tc light comes on. I did a search on here and saw that it could be abs speed sensor. She went to Autozone and used their scan tool. Nine codes came up, now at a loss. The codes are c0040-86,c0034-07, c0040-87, u3f10-78, u0001-80, u0101-00, uu0100-00, u0037-07 and u0136-00. I understand some of these codes, brake pedal switch, rf and lr abs speed sensor, traction control and lost communication with ecm/pcm. Any ideas on where to start. Battery and alternator are good. Roads where she is are bump. Maybe something came loose. This is the first major issue (besides battery) in 206k miles. She is supposed to be coming back next Saturday. I have obd module and for scan here at home. In your opinion do you think she’ll be able to get back okay? Thanks
Check the abs ring that the sensor reads for cracks (looks like a bunch of teeth).
Make sure you replace it with EXACTLY the same part that comes off and ignore the guy at the shop if he tells you your VIN number says it's a different one. It has to be the same part number.
Maybe this is my problem. Replaced rear wheel hub on '17 Titanium from Rock Auto and my TC & ABS lights are on as well as Hill Assist. Maybe the part in the new hub isn't the exact same as in the old?? Should I try to remove the sensor from the old one and replace the new with it?
This was a correction in my previous post...but I figured out how to edit but not how to delete this one.
This was a correction in my previous post...but I figured out how to edit but not how to delete this one.
You can't delete a post but what I do is go to edit, remove everything and then just type "deleted" or "posted in error".
Maybe this is my problem. Replaced rear wheel hub on '17 Titanium from Rock Auto and my TC & ABS lights are on as well as Hill Assist. Maybe the part in the new hub isn't the exact same as in the old?? Should I try to remove the sensor from the old one and replace the new with it?
It has to be the same engineering part number that came off. That's normally four digits, then a dash, then five or six digits, then a dash, then two or three digits. As one of the above posts says the actual Ford part number may change in time which in the UK it's called a Finis number. Not sure if you have the same system over there.

Engineering part number example would be something like BV6T-2C190-GA

Always check the number on the car and make sure you get the same part number.
It has to be the same engineering part number that came off. That's normally four digits, then a dash, then five or six digits, then a dash, then two or three digits. As one of the above posts says the actual Ford part number may change in time which in the UK it's called a Finis number. Not sure if you have the same system over there.

Engineering part number example would be something like BV6T-2C190-GA

Always check the number on the car and make sure you get the same part number.
When a part is designed and released for assembly/service, it always has an ENGINEERING/IDENTIFICATION PN assigned. That ID NO stays the same throughout the PN USAGE HISTORY, it never changes. The SERVICE PN assigned to that ENG NO may change if and when any service upgrade is performed on that particular part.

If an original part is completely redesigned/upgraded, it will most likely have a new ENG PN assigned. The only way to be certain if you have the latest correct SERVICE PN is to present your VIN when purchasing the part, whether dealer or on-line dealer/MOTORCRAFT SOURCE or possibly have a source for current TSB's.

The above is fact, not IMO and/or IMHO as I consider myself somewhat honest ...
After clearing codes with forscan. Codes came back and only abs sensor this time was left rear. Ordered the sensor through local Ford dealership and of course it is on back order. Could of had it shipped from another dealer at extra cost. So I will just wait till the 8/23 for the part to come in. Thanks for all the help and information.
When a part is designed and released for assembly/service, it always has an ENGINEERING/IDENTIFICATION PN assigned. That ID NO stays the same throughout the PN USAGE HISTORY, it never changes. The SERVICE PN assigned to that ENG NO may change if and when any service upgrade is performed on that particular part.

If an original part is completely redesigned/upgraded, it will most likely have a new ENG PN assigned. The only way to be certain if you have the latest correct SERVICE PN is to present your VIN when purchasing the part, whether dealer or on-line dealer/MOTORCRAFT SOURCE or possibly have a source for current TSB's.

The above is fact, not IMO and/or IMHO as I consider myself somewhat honest ...
If the item is upgraded only the last two digits change.....fact. One of the digits reflects a major change and the other a minor change. My example of BV6T-2C190 will not change unless the part is discontinued and replaced with another.

BV6T = Kuga mk2 2012 on (UK Spec) = Your G3
2C190 = Product / Engineering Line
G = Major Revision
A = Minor Revision

Another fact in the UK is some motor factors have the incorrect part shown against the VIN number which caused one of our members a lot of wasted time and the outlet, not sure if it was Ford or not, would not order the correct part because the part the owner was requesting wasn't shown in the book as being correct to his VIN.
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