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I used the procedure described in VladOhio's thread (incredibly helpful - thank you!) to get at my subwoofer because the rattling seemed to have picked up lately. My subwoofer module was very tight to the frame. There was no play or movement in it at all. As VladOhio noted, the screws were hand-tightened. There is probably good reason for that (see below). I took the screws out and pulled the subwoofer out of the frame. Others had mentioned a module call-out by the dealer. No, it's just one piece. Nothing screws into it in the back or anywhere else.

The 4 screws holding it in place don't screw into plastic. They screw into metal clipped brackets attached to the metal frame. The plastic of the subwoofer module fits in front of the metal frame.

I put it back in and gave some thought to using Locktite on the screws. I decided against it because I'm not convinced the rattle comes from loose screws (and by extension a loose subwoofer).

I tightened the screws beyond hand-tight, and one of the plastic brackets in the subwoofer module cracked. It's in there rock solid and I decided against pulling it out, trying to glue it and all that. I mention this because if you do it yourself, don't over-tighten.

I'm skeptical that it is the screws. One person noted the dealer allegedly tightened the screws and the rattling was still there, and perhaps worse.

I haven't heard a rattle like something is loose. I've heard a resonating sound at a different frequency. Having taken apart that area, I think it might be a vibration in that rear panel that is causing a resonance. It has only happened to me at certain frequencies of bass and subwoofer power. If it is not the screws, the answer may be in putting some material farther up the panel, near the wheel well so that the panel doesn't vibrate.

I will drive it this weekend and see if I can replicate the rattle. But as I said, I'm skeptical that after having tightened those screws as I did, they they will loosen up in minutes of playing bass through the subwoofer.

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Update after 6-7 hours of driving....

I don't think it is the screws because the rattle was replicated in 20 minutes of driving following the tightening described above. The little sound I put through the sub-woofer didn't magically generate extensive torque to loosen the screws. I was able to replicate the issue with a specific song over and over again while the vehicle was stopped. I was also able to stand and listen to it with the rear liftgate open. I now think it's caused by one of three things:

1) Vibration of the cabling that runs along the inside top of the panel for the lighting
2) Vibration of something unseen in the area hollowed out near the taillight where the subwoofer fits into and where the sound gets pushed
3) A resonance at specific frequencies as a result of airflow and design of the panel and how it's ventilated

I'm leaning toward #3, but when I have more time I'm going to take the panel off and see if I can replicate the issue with that song while the panel is off.
 

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2020 Ford Escape Hybrid Titanium
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125 Posts
My first experience with a dealer on this issue was a disaster. They kept the car for 5 days (!!), and claimed they fixed it by tightening a couple of the subwoofer screws they said were loose. When I picked up the car, no buzzing in the lot. I left to head home, kept the radio on a station with lots of songs with a heavy beat, and within 10 minutes, the buzzing started up again, and never quit.

I took the car in yesterday to the other Ford dealership in town. Here's the write up they did:
77754


So, according to this dealer, the issue (at least for my car) was the "approaching vehicle audible control module," which, according the service advisor, controls the rear cross traffic alert system.

The buzz was gone for my entire trip home. Hopefully, this is a fix for good. We'll see.

[FWIW, here is a link to the Rotunda Squeak and Rattle Kit]
 

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I have awful rattling and clacking noises in my car (2020 titanium hybrid), makes me cringe during the drive. Does anyone know if dealers are aware of the issue, or do I need to work on convincing them there is a problem?
 

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2020 Escape Hybrid Titanium - The Dark Knight
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Funny thing is I mentioned it in passing at my dealer (it's not totally obnoxious yet, I carry a number of things in the cargo area and that seems to keep the problem mostly muted) even my salesperson says his demo is doing the same thing.

They did the "insulation fix" but had to tear everything apart in and around the subwoofer to do it.

NefCanuck
 

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For those with the B&O System in their Titanium Escape's, are you guys experiencing an annoying rattling coming from the subwoofer at any volume? I had my dealer replace the subwoofer but the rattle is still present and even more annoying. They opened a case with Ford to see if there is a recommended fix. According to my service advisor, the rattling is coming from a loose module on the subwoofer.
Within three weeks of driving my 2020 Escape Titanium home, it developed this exact same rattle! The problem isn't with the subwoofer itself, but the bracket directly above the subwoofer. Ford's engineers really cheaped out here. The bracket is bolted directly to the body, which wouldn't be a problem if the bolts stay tight. But there is no lock washer or loctite to keep them snug, so the moment they loosen up you get metal on metal rattling with any hit of the bass or any time the vehicle goes over a bump. I ended up mounting a couple of rubber washers between the bracket and the body, and put some loctite red on the bolts. Problem solved! I hope the rest of the engineering on the car is a little better than this, because Ford used some really low budget design for this part of the car.
77758
 

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Within three weeks of driving my 2020 Escape Titanium home, it developed this exact same rattle! The problem isn't with the subwoofer itself, but the bracket directly above the subwoofer. Ford's engineers really cheaped out here. The bracket is bolted directly to the body, which wouldn't be a problem if the bolts stay tight. But there is no lock washer or loctite to keep them snug, so the moment they loosen up you get metal on metal rattling with any hit of the bass or any time the vehicle goes over a bump. I ended up mounting a couple of rubber washers between the bracket and the body, and put some loctite red on the bolts. Problem solved! I hope the rest of the engineering on the car is a little better than this, because Ford used some really low budget design for this part of the car.
I have taken apart my 2020 Escape Titanium (as described above). That silver metal box with the three screws that is bolted "north" of the subwoofer is not in my vehicle.
 

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2020 Ford Escape Titanium/AWD
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I took my vehicle in for this today and was shocked at the number of things he fixed. Apparently his knowledge is solid, so I am appreciative. Mine wasn't just the sub, it rattled while driving over bumps. Here are some of his words.

"Using stereo volume as a diag assistant, was able to duplicate rattle in rear passenger section. Upon gaining visual access, the mouting bracket for the amp was loose, not even finger tight. Properly secured bracket and tightened bolts that hold amp to bracket. Sub rattle gone".

"inner fender well at right rear is location where sub is vented, visually inspected and located 3 loose bolts that secured rear fender skirt and tightened them... Loose on drivers side too, also tightened them, which corrected driving rattle."

"during final inspection noticed a second sound that was masked by the first coming from right rear. Right, rear tail lamp assembly was loose. made adjustments, vehicle OK."

This is a new vehicle, by the way. He fixed another trim related thing I hadn't noticed. Driving in that vehicle is so much different now. The quiet, with the volume down, then the music without two rattles competing with each other is lovely.

Overall, the dealership was all over this and had a brand new explorer for me to ride in while this was done. Took them one day.

"
 

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2020 Ford Escape Titanium/AWD
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Update:

Rattle back with a vengeance. Not the rattle that happened when I hit the bumps, but audio rattles at low volumes. I rarely listen over 7 or 8 and many drum beats are unlistenable (again).

Tonight, driving home from work, it was worse than originally.

Already texted service and getting another loaner while they work this job next week. Unsure if I should talk with the store manager yet or give them another chance. He did fix it for a bit and the bump rattle is still long gone.

Irritating that they would do an 'upgraded' sound system this poorly. My two previous Escapes (2007 and then a 2017) never had audio issues. I had the 10 Speaker Sony in the 2017... 0 problems.
 

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I dropped off my car for the rattle fix - on Monday. They told me on Wednesday that a part was ordered but they are not done yet - so its now been 5 days. No loaner, but I got a free Hertz rental from the dealership.
 

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Had mine in the shop for 4 hours yesterday, tech completely took apart rear interior and added some felt-like tape between those three circled mounts and bolts, as well as between the module and the bracket screws, and vibration is completely gone now.
 

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Finally got my car back after 7 days. Per service advisor, they repaired the subwoofer (I wasn't clear on what exactly was done). I also complained about buzzing and resonance in driver side speakers by door and windshield, but I was told they appear to be ok. Driving home, wow ... What a difference, I can actually enjoy the music. The resonance in front speakers is still there, but not noticeable in most stuff that I play. The sub actually acts like a sub now instead of a rattler.
 

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Thanks, I am supposed to go back tomorrow to get a loaner.

I'll be printing these solutions for them as well as a PM that someone who had fixed it on their own sent me.

I've been really nice thus far, but I've had more than the sound issue and I'm at 700 miles. I'm unsure whether I keep it nice (my normal) or become more aggressive.

This is my second service in <3 weeks. I can't wait for a loaner every few weeks, but I also want to be fair, as their service department didn't build or directly cause my issues.
 

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2020 Ford Escape Titanium 2.0 Ecoboost AWD / 2013 Ford Mustang GT Premium MT-82
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I just had my sub replaced and it still rattles. Going back next time I need something.
 

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Now about 2 weeks after the rattle was repaired it's slowly beginning to creep back in. It's mostly unnoticeable for now, but I'd hate to deal with the repair again (which took 7 days).
 

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The did it different this time. Insulated all screws and repositioned sub slightly.

So far, so good.

Shocking there isn't a TSB on this.
 

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2020 Escape Hybrid Titanium - The Dark Knight
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The did it different this time. Insulated all screws and repositioned sub slightly.

So far, so good.

Shocking there isn't a TSB on this.
Probably because there isn't a "guaranteed fix" yet because from what I've read and seen (including my salesman who admitted that his sub rattled too) they have been providing "best guess manual fixes" that aren't consistent or consistently working.

NefCanuck
 

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Probably because there isn't a "guaranteed fix" yet because from what I've read and seen (including my salesman who admitted that his sub rattled too) they have been providing "best guess manual fixes" that aren't consistent or consistently working.

NefCanuck
I've been watching this thread closely as my Escape is experiencing this rattle as well. I don't want to bring it in until there is a "guaranteed fix".
 

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I was waiting, too, but I bet there's never a TSB on this. Too few customers will notice. I've only heard it once, but I know the song very well, and can't accept how it sounds. I hope I'm wrong.
Frank
 

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For some of us, the rattle was so constant and pronounced that one couldn’t possibly miss it. That was my case.
 

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Mine has started again today.

For the third time, it came home great and then 3 or 4 days in, there is some rattle, then it gets progressively worse.

I've opened a case with Ford on this. I have a problem with my drivers seat cushion too.

I wish I had kept the 2017. Never had a single issue in it. I just really liked the new style and the added tech (I'm in IT).

I've driven Escapes since 2007. I kept the 2007 for 10 years (had to do a transmission replacement in the middle), then got the 2017, now the 2020.

I really regret buying this vehicle.
 
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