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2020 Ford Escape Titanium 2.0 Ecoboost AWD / 2013 Ford Mustang GT Premium MT-82
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Mine has started again today.

For the third time, it came home great and then 3 or 4 days in, there is some rattle, then it gets progressively worse.

I've opened a case with Ford on this. I have a problem with my drivers seat cushion too.

I wish I had kept the 2017. Never had a single issue in it. I just really liked the new style and the added tech (I'm in IT).

I've driven Escapes since 2007. I kept the 2007 for 10 years (had to do a transmission replacement in the middle), then got the 2017, now the 2020.

I really regret buying this vehicle.
I'm not happy about the subwoofer rattling either but doesn't sour my opinion of the vehicle. Hopefully Ford will get a real fix.
 

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Mine has started again today.

For the third time, it came home great and then 3 or 4 days in, there is some rattle, then it gets progressively worse.
Can you replicate it with specific songs and can you replicate it so you hear it when you have the liftgate open and you're standing next to the subwoofer?

I'm asking because, as I wrote previously, I think this may be multi-factorial in that some loose screws might have been the cause for some owners, but there may be a larger resonance issue that is just a result of the design and how air vibrates in (and through) that back panel section. There may not be enough "give" in the panel, causing the resonance. Or, there may be too much "give" to it which causes the rattle. After having removed mine once, I hear it now about 5% of the time.
 

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2020 Ford Escape Titanium/AWD
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32 Posts
Yes.

I work in radio (one reason why sound is so important to me) and last time, I made a list of 3 songs. Then, I took the parts that showcased it well, looped them in my audio software, then made them a USB of 3 different tracks.

When I got it back, the USB was totally clean. The noise was 100% gone. There is some slight noise from the doors, but it's low and tolerable.

About 3 days after I got it back, I was happy and left the radio on while I ran into a store real quick. When I got back in, I was very disappointed, as it was making another rattle/squeaking noise combo.

At this stage, it still sounds far better than it did. I have another issue with the vehicle that it's supposed to go back in the shop as soon as they have a loaner available and I plan to loop another 3 songs that I wrote down.

I left one song playing and held the sub panel in various parts and it didn't stop the noise, but it didn't seem to be resonance from my point of view. With my head by the sub port, It was clearly coming from the speaker and/or mount.
 

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2020 Escape Titanium
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5 Posts
For those with the B&O System in their Titanium Escape's, are you guys experiencing an annoying rattling coming from the subwoofer at any volume? I had my dealer replace the subwoofer but the rattle is still present and even more annoying. They opened a case with Ford to see if there is a recommended fix. According to my service advisor, the rattling is coming from a loose module on the subwoofer.
 

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2020 Escape Titanium
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Bought a 2020 escape titanium less than a month ago and experiencing the same rattling sound from the sub woofer area. Very annoying. There are others areas of rattling in the doors while playing music. For a stereo system that is supposed to be a higher caliber, I’m somewhat disappointed with it. The highs seem shrill and the door speakers have too much bass. They should have used a higher crossover point on the door speakers. I was quite surprised by how much low bass the sub puts out though (So much though that it shakes the car apart apparently).
 

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2020 Escape Titanium
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Well, I decided to fix the rattling sub myself. I was apprehensive about working on my new car, but thought what could go wrong. Thanks to VladOhio’s post about getting to the sub area. Much appreciated. It wasn’t as bad as I thought, taking it apart. Anyways, the source of the rattling, for me, was the nut clip vibrating in the metal hole that holds the nut clip in place in the top right connection of the speaker. I tried tightening the bolt, but that didn’t make any difference. The nut clip is loose in the hole. Why oh why didn’t Ford use a welded nut for this application? The plastic that the bolt goes through seems kind of cheap too. I removed the sub and put rubber flat washers from the hardware store (7/16” id, 1” od) on both sides of the 4 plastic connections points. I re-bolted the sub and tested it out. The rattling is gone now. I hope the nut clip doesn’t become loose again.
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2020 Ford Escape Titanium/AWD
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32 Posts
Well, I decided to fix the rattling sub myself. I was apprehensive about working on my new car, but thought what could go wrong. Thanks to VladOhio’s post about getting to the sub area. Much appreciated. It wasn’t as bad as I thought, taking it apart. Anyways, the source of the rattling, for me, was the nut clip vibrating in the metal hole that holds the nut clip in place in the top right connection of the speaker. I tried tightening the bolt, but that didn’t make any difference. The nut clip is loose in the hole. Why oh why didn’t Ford use a welded nut for this application? The plastic that the bolt goes through seems kind of cheap too. I removed the sub and put rubber flat washers from the hardware store (7/16” id, 1” od) on both sides of the 4 plastic connections points. I re-bolted the sub and tested it out. The rattling is gone now. I hope the nut clip doesn’t become loose again.
Let me know if it stays 'fixed'.

When I go back in, it will be the third time. It never works over 10 days for me.

I have Ford involved this time, so I'm hoping my Premium system I paid for can at least go to volume level 8 without a rattle fest.

I have four other issues too, so most of my time is waiting for a loaner to free up.
 

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Just grabbed a used 2020 Titanium a few days ago and this was the first thing I noticed on the drive home. The sub rattling is driving me nuts.

I came from a vehicle with a fully upgraded professional audio system. 2 IDQ 12's, Morel components. The B&O sound system isn't horrible in my opinion. The tweets and mids are decent, and the mids are pushing out ok mid-bass which is always a struggle. In some ways, the mids are probably doing most of the heavy lifting versus the subwoofer, which pushes out crap for sub bass and has that infernal rattling to boot.

So as much as I'd like to fix the rattling, I'm not feeling great about the sub to begin with. Does anyone have any specs on the sub? I'd like to just rewire it to a separate sub box, but knowing more specs on the system in general would help. I can't find anything aside from 575 watt 10 speaker system.
 

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2020 Ford Escape Titanium/AWD
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32 Posts
Just grabbed a used 2020 Titanium a few days ago and this was the first thing I noticed on the drive home. The sub rattling is driving me nuts.

I came from a vehicle with a fully upgraded professional audio system. 2 IDQ 12's, Morel components. The B&O sound system isn't horrible in my opinion. The tweets and mids are decent, and the mids are pushing out ok mid-bass which is always a struggle. In some ways, the mids are probably doing most of the heavy lifting versus the subwoofer, which pushes out crap for sub bass and has that infernal rattling to boot.

So as much as I'd like to fix the rattling, I'm not feeling great about the sub to begin with. Does anyone have any specs on the sub? I'd like to just rewire it to a separate sub box, but knowing more specs on the system in general would help. I can't find anything aside from 575 watt 10 speaker system.
There is a thread in this forum from someone who added a sub. You should be able to find it pretty easily.

This system sounds far better than the 10 Speaker Sony from my 2017. Difference, though... The Sony never had a single problem. That B&O Sub has only worked 21 days out of 3 months properly. It does hit deep bass well, though. Moreso than the Sony.

I'm no car audio expert, but isn't the branding just based on a DSP with custom settings? I'd imagine the speakers are still relatively cheap stuff.
 
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