2013+ Ford Escape Forum banner

61 - 80 of 140 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I pulled the trigger and opted to replace the sub entirely. Got an 8" JL Audio micro-sub with ported enclosure, and ordered 10' of 12 awg and some right angle banana plugs with it. I was able to pull the rear panel back without removing it entirely, cut the signal wires where they clip into the existing sub, and patch the new wire in there. The 12awg was overkill, I think the existing wires are 18, but the new sub sounds much cleaner and crisper than the old one, and no more rattle. It takes up a little trunk space but the escape's got a big boot, so it should be good :)

While the new sub sounds considerably better than the old, it still cuts out at the bottom end so you'll miss a few of those deepest notes. As much as I miss running a few 12's or a 15, though, I don't miss it enough to start from scratch. A Nav TV Zen A2B costs $550, and that's just what it takes to get a clean signal from SYNC3 so you can start building a real aftermarket system.

sub.jpg
 

·
Registered
2020 Escape Titanium
Joined
·
26 Posts
I tried to beef up the bass in my Escape with a KICKER - CompC Loaded Enclosure Single-Voice-Coil 4-Ohm Subwoofer that was on sale. What a waste of time! The built-in sub is 5.5 ohms, by the way. I wired the speakers in series to avoid overloading the amp. It should have made a 9.5 ohm load that way, which makes the subs a little bit quieter. Anyway, all it did was make it worse. Sounded like garbage. I tried hooking up the Kicker sub by itself, the amp doesn't have enough power to drive the sub. Out of phase? I tried reversing the subs' polarity. No change. At volume 26-30, it made distortion (not the sub itself). Uggg! I returned the sub. I guess it doesn't take much power to drive a 6X9 sub. What a disappointment. I do realize the Kicker sub needs more power, but come on. Did Ford go cheap on this amp?
I had an early 90's Ford Explorer with a built-in 8" sub from Ford. I bypassed that sub speaker and hooked it up to a speaker box with two 15" subs using the Ford amp. That thing bumped like crazy. It hit so hard it made the steering wheel shake.

Escape sub pic.

78352
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I recently purchased my 2020 Ford Escape. The rear speaker is rattling. I took it into the dealer, who said, "the bass was turned all the way up," which I know was not true, I had looked at the settings, and had even turned the bass way down, to get rid of some of the rattling. .... Then, they told me that they could put some "tape" and "padding" around the subwoofer, to absorb the rattle. I hope that's a fix, but after reading through this post, I'm concerned that they either aren't aware of this problem, or aren't willing to admit there's a problem.
To date, is there a fix for this? How do we ask Ford to put out a TSB for this, seems there's a lot of us experiencing this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
I just got my car back after 2nd trip to fix the rattle. Service advisor actually took time to listed to demo song I played for him and cringed himself.
He told me they found 2 places that were causing rattle, including the trunk tailgate. He said they fixed things that were rattling and added soundproofing around that area.
Driving home today, sound was great and no rattles or resonance. Hopefully it will stick this time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
What demo track are you guys using to duplicate the rattle? I’d like to be able to test before purchase. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
2020 Ford Escape Titanium/AWD
Joined
·
150 Posts
I program a hip-hop, as well as a pop station.

I used the instrumental to WAP, to spare their ears of explicit language.

Pop song wise, Billie Eilish/Therefore I Am works as well.

Other hip hop songs that work are Heart on Ice/Rod Wave & Can I Get A/Jay-Z.

As I heard songs doing it on SiriusXM, I just started collecting either the clean versions or loops of the affected song. If you want to use the radio, channel 46/The Heat should take care of it for you.

USB, Sirius, or Bluetooth music will work better, since the AM/FM low frequency cut off is so much higher.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
For those with the B&O System in their Titanium Escape's, are you guys experiencing an annoying rattling coming from the subwoofer at any volume? I had my dealer replace the subwoofer but the rattle is still present and even more annoying. They opened a case with Ford to see if there is a recommended fix. According to my service advisor, the rattling is coming from a loose module on the subwoofer.
My dealer padded the subwoofer. Said they used a padded tape, insulator. The rattling is gone, sound is fine. This is a design flaw, the module under the subwoofer, mounts are too close to the subwoofer, so they rattle, and need to be padded. Atleaset, thats my basic understanding. Ford really should put out a specific fix.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
My dealer padded the subwoofer. Said they used a padded tape, insulator. The rattling is gone, sound is fine. This is a design flaw, the module under the subwoofer, mounts are too close to the subwoofer, so they rattle, and need to be padded. Atleaset, thats my basic understanding. Ford really should put out a specific fix.
So 4 weeks after my fix (maybe 400 miles???), the sound has been perfect, and no hint of rattle. So I am crossing my fingers that it will stay this way.
 

·
Registered
2020 Ford Escape Titanium/AWD
Joined
·
150 Posts
Just an update here...

My dealer told me this time that 'It's plastic, so it's going to rattle'.

Thanks to some good advice from VladOhio (Thank You!), I'll probably tackle this myself.

About to bury that dealership in both of the ratings I have to do for them. I have two, because they hadn't properly programmed my FordPass module when they replaced it... I had one wasted pickup and another with the plastic line.

Going to tear them down on Google too. Since 2004, I've dropped over 100K on vehicles with them. I'm stunned. I may try a dealership about 30 miles from here. They have a decent rep. I'm tired of it, though. I had a loaner for 3 weeks and 2 days this time.

Good luck to others with the problem. It does spread to the front doors as well. Just takes a little time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
You'd think that a stereo system with "Bang" for a first name would be distortion free🤔
 

·
Registered
2020 Ford Escape Titanium/AWD
Joined
·
150 Posts
You'd think that a stereo system with "Bang" for a first name would be distortion free🤔
For 500 miles. lol. I don't even listen over 10 at my max. That's not even halfway.

I work in the media (radio). I will talk to some of our salespeople and see who knows someone.

I had a contact at one 60 miles away (another state). I bought a 60K Ford Transit from him pre Covid for work. I wish he was still there, but sadly, he isn't. They'd take care of me, more than likely.

Unfortunately, due to policies, I can only blast them on my personal accounts. I wish I could get into them on my media accounts.
 

·
Registered
2020 Escape Titanium
Joined
·
26 Posts
I used Sofi Tukker's "Matadora" for the rattle check. At 45 seconds the bass plays. Making me cringe just thinking about that rattle I used to have. Subwoofer still not rattling after I fixed it 3 months ago. Keep jamming on the "Bang & Broken" sound system.
 

·
Registered
2020 Ford Escape Titanium/AWD
Joined
·
150 Posts
I used Sofi Tukker's "Matadora" for the rattle check. At 45 seconds the bass plays. Making me cringe just thinking about that rattle I used to have. Subwoofer still not rattling after I fixed it 3 months ago. Keep jamming on the "Bang & Broken" sound system.
Vlad broke it down for me and I bought a $10 manual on Crutchfield for the vehicle that not only tells you how to get to and remove all the speakers in great detail, but the head unit too.

I'm just fixing rattle, though. Very satisfied with it's non rattling audio quality.

I'm disappointed in Ford for not having a real 'fix' for this over a model year later.

More disappointed that my dealer copped out of doing the right thing and not even checking the screw tightness in my doors. I'd look at a customer that has bought 4 vehicles from me and just go pay one of the sound companies here to fix it out of my pocket, to keep the customer happy with the purchase history I had. Shortsited on their part.
 

·
Registered
2020 Ford Escape Titanium 2.0 Ecoboost AWD / 2013 Ford Mustang GT Premium MT-82
Joined
·
50 Posts
Just blew my third rear sub. Wasn't even a week when it started rattling and I had the bass down a little and never turned it up. Dealer specifically said last time I had it fixed that the speaker was damaged. I'm not bringing it in again til there is a real fix from Ford. Haven't been able to enjoy my 575 watt B&O sound system yet and I just passed one year of ownership.
 

·
Registered
2020 Ford Escape Titanium/AWD
Joined
·
150 Posts
Just blew my third rear sub. Wasn't even a week when it started rattling and I had the bass down a little and never turned it up. Dealer specifically said last time I had it fixed that the speaker was damaged. I'm not bringing it in again til there is a real fix from Ford. Haven't been able to enjoy my 575 watt B&O sound system yet and I just passed one year of ownership.
Your dealership is like mine. The very least they could have done is replaced it last time if the KNEW it was damaged.
 

·
Registered
2020 Escape Hybrid Titanium
Joined
·
370 Posts
I used an app called AudioTools connected via Bluetooth to do a frequency sweep.
  • the rattle is most excited at 65Hz +/-5Hz. Not terribly low in frequency.
  • once you get it started, the rattle gets much worse. This is not a perceptual thing, the rattle happens all the time now.

I got the Crutchfield install guide, but I'll give the dealer a go first. There are lots of minor buzzes that I won't mention if they fix the big rattle. Service scheduled April 2.
 

·
Registered
2020 Ford Escape Titanium/AWD
Joined
·
150 Posts
My doors ratlle badly now too at the same frequency. Mostly the passenger and rear door (ironically the two doors my dealer had to work on for other issues).

Often times, that rattle is what I'm hearing more than my sub. If I keep this car, I'm going to have someone sound deaden all of my doors and the liftgate. I'm tired of this. I program radio stations. Music & Tech are the two biggest parts of my work life.

Thing is, I am not a loud listener. My ears are crazy sensitive. I am usually at 5-8 on the volume. At that level, I am still getting 'full' bass. As you turn it up, the B&O DSP artificially lowers the bass and raises mid bass and midrange so you hear loudness, but not the same clean, deep bass.

I bought that manual too. Very much worth $10.
 
61 - 80 of 140 Posts
Top