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Discussion Starter #1
I have a Midtronics Mico 570 Battery/Starting/charging system analyzer.
this all started after I had my torque converter replaced in july at Future ford in Sacramento at 90,000 miles
Last week my car would not start, pulled the cover and the positive cable was covered in corrosion and was loose.
I realize now the dealer removed the positive cable when they removed the transmission. the mechanic did not tighten the cable on the post after finishing the job!!
I replaced my Battery about 2 years ago motorcraft CCA 590
My scanner says battery is good needs charging. I drove 350 miles on Wednesday I 5 south averaging over 70 miles an hour!
My scanner says battery still needs charging!!!
Scanner says "Charging system problem" and "high charging voltage"
load off 14.97
load on 14.90
Is my battery bad, my BCM bad, starter is new the dealer broke the bolt when removing the positive cable
 

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I have a Midtronics Mico 570 Battery/Starting/charging system analyzer.
this all started after I had my torque converter replaced in july at Future ford in Sacramento at 90,000 miles
Last week my car would not start, pulled the cover and the positive cable was covered in corrosion and was loose.
I realize now the dealer removed the positive cable when they removed the transmission. the mechanic did not tighten the cable on the post after finishing the job!!
I replaced my Battery about 2 years ago motorcraft CCA 590
My scanner says battery is good needs charging. I drove 350 miles on Wednesday I 5 south averaging over 70 miles an hour!
My scanner says battery still needs charging!!!
Scanner says "Charging system problem" and "high charging voltage"
load off 14.97
load on 14.90
Is my battery bad, my BCM bad, starter is new the dealer broke the bolt when removing the positive cable
Do not know for sure, but at this early point my money is on the cable and corrosion. Is the corrosion so bad the cable needs replacing. I also would check the negative cable and the BMS. Also, I am assuming that your "scanner" can check the charging sytem much in the same way mine does. Did you run that test? Finally, it would be helpful if you would put the model, year, mileage, and trim of your vehicle in the signature line. It really helps getting good information.
 
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My midtronics also said my battery is good and needs charged 420 cca. Why then it is overcharging. All the Frozen room was cleaned out of the positive cable remove the wipers and cause the negative cable was tight again it was a mechanic that did not tighten it when I had the torque converter replaced should I do a battery system reset?
 

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should I do a battery system reset?
I've no ideas for the larger problem but I would not do a BMS reset if that's what you're referring to. The WSM is explicit in saying BMS reset should only be done when a new battery is installed; I can't find any reference to doing a BMS reset as part of the lengthy charging system diagnostics / troubleshooting / solution procedures.

IIRC from old posts you did the reset when that battery was replaced as called for - that would have set the 'battery age clock' appropriate to that battery. Again per the WSM all of the other battery status / condition variables will adjust 'on the fly' though some of them require a ~6 hr (nominal overnight) 'rest' period which I'm reasonably sure your normal use-patterns provide.

All that assuming that the sensor module on the negative cable is 'good' - again from past posts IIRC you replaced that assembly in the past so failure of that module seems unlikely?

If the 14.97 and 14.90 are voltages with the engine running, remember that the 'smart charging' system adjusts alternator output based not only on battery condition but also on many different engine operating conditions and complex algorithms designed to 'optimize fuel economy / alternator engine load' while also hopefully keeping the battery healthy.

The full range of spec alternator output is 12.2 minimum to 15.2 maximum, the latter being when 'the system' decides the battery is at risk of sulfation. The 'normal maximum' charging range is listed as 14.5-14.9 volts.

It's really a very difficult charging system to diagnose by 'traditional' methods with 'traditional' tools; the WSM diagnostics call for use of the Ford IDS tool and a lot of different 'indirect' measurements / comparisons to specs at different points in the system.

Good luck, you've got a puzzler.
 

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I had a similar issue on different vehicle (not FE) after a loose battery terminal a few years ago. The problem was the voltage regulator(build in the alternator). Went bad because the charging system can't push low amps charge back in the battery due to the poor connection. This would cause eventually flat battery which require many amps to charge. Then it would be like a dead short for the charging system at that point. Lose or dirty connections put a lot of stress on the charging system as the only current that would flow across is high current. If I were you, I would try to fully charge the battery with portable charger first. The best is if you can do slow trickle charging. Then if your problem persists, you know it's is not the battery. Another thing you can do is if you have clamp on multimeter try to measure the amps flowing at idle and at different engine speeds.
 

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My midtronics also said my battery is good and needs charged 420 cca. Why then it is overcharging. All the Frozen room was cleaned out of the positive cable remove the wipers and cause the negative cable was tight again it was a mechanic that did not tighten it when I had the torque converter replaced should I do a battery system reset?
My gizmo will check alternator. From what you said you have not checked it?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I drove down to Los Angeles over Thanksgiving put on over 1000 miles, at least 800 miles were highway
It is still telling me the battery needs recharged. Motorcraft battery 3 year free replacement 590 CCA
Midtronics Power Sensor micro 570
1st test was battery it said "battery is good" and needs to be recharged ("12.48V and "486 CCA") the battery is suppose to be 590 CCA
Charging system problem and High charging voltage.(Load off 14.94V) (Load on 14.90)
Diode Ripple Normal
I went to an autozone and had them put their tester on it and same results!
I have the most recent battery management system "Negative cable", also removed the wiper arms and cowl to make sure negative cable wasn't loose
The reason all this crap is going on is the mechanic at Future Ford in Sacramento forgot to tighten the positive cable when he put the transmission back in the car


 

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I had a 2006 ford escape hybrid. When you would test the battery at any time it always checked good but needs charged. The only way it showed OK was after an overnight 2 amp trickle charge. After that it would be Ok for several days and then go back to needs charged. Drove it for three years that way, never had an issue, but that was always in the back of my mind why?? I did ask a knowledgeable person about the issue and their claim was that they had seen batteries that showed low voltage at resting state.

Also have you ever scanned the Escape for any body control module codes???
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I put a battery charger on the battery and disconnected the positive cable.
had charger on for 4 hours charging at 12 volts.
I put my midtronics back on the battery and it says battery good needs a charge "486 CCA"
It has to be a bad battery!!!!!!!
My Actron OBD11 scanner did not pull any codes
 

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Sounds li
I put a battery charger on the battery and disconnected the positive cable.
had charger on for 4 hours charging at 12 volts.
I put my midtronics back on the battery and it says battery good needs a charge "486 CCA"
It has to be a bad battery!!!!!!!
My Actron OBD11 scanner did not pull any codes
sounds like you have a device similar to mine and it is taking secondary readings of the battery? I have the same device and found mine to give flaky results at times. I would supplement with multimeter direct voltage readings. Did your device check the alternator? If so, what were the results? Mines conducts several readings and requires me to run the engine at increased rpms for some readings. Again double check everything either multimeter readings.
 

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Do you know the charge rate of your charger? Charging amperage is at most importance here for proper deep battery saturation. Slow trickle charge (usually no more than 2amps) is best. Charging with higher amperage than that is not ideal for battery with issues. When battery is fully charged, charging voltage should read 14.40 Volts. Also there is no need to disconnect battery terminals before charging. Just clamp on your charger in the same fashion you would normally use booster cables(but don't start or crank your vehicle). When finished charging remove charging cables before attempting to start.

Imo you have 2 possibilities here. Either your battery has issues causing your charging system to output higher voltage in an attempt to fully charge it, or your charging system is messed up (unable to maintain proper Volt/Amps range) resulting in battery not being fully charged.
 

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Working at a used car dealer we had a battery on charge almost every day, and some days several. We were constantly dealing with weak batteries. The owner would drive cars every day. Driving a car does not put much back in a low battery. Most of the alternator's production goes into operating these late mode cars. The best way to charge a low battery is a low 2 amp charge over 8 to 16 hours. We had several Shumaker automatic chargers that let you know when full charge is accomplished that worked very well for us. At home i probably own at lesst 10 vehicles and tractors with full size 12 volt batteries and in the winter non use months I keep a battery maintainer on everything not being used. This reslly extends battery life for me.
 

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Sounds li
I put a battery charger on the battery and disconnected the positive cable.
had charger on for 4 hours charging at 12 volts.
I put my midtronics back on the battery and it says battery good needs a charge "486 CCA"
It has to be a bad battery!!!!!!!
My Actron OBD11 scanner did not pull any codes
sounds like you have a device similar to mine and it is taking secondary readings of the battery? I have the same device and found mine to give flaky results at times. I would supplement with multimeter direct voltage readings. Did your device check the alternator? If so, what were the results? Mines conducts several readings and requires me to run the engine at increased rpms for some readings. Again double check everything either multimeter read
Do you know the charge rate of your charger? Charging amperage is at most importance here for proper deep battery saturation. Slow trickle charge (usually no more than 2amps) is best. Charging with higher amperage than that is not ideal for battery with issues. When battery is fully charged, charging voltage should read 14.40 Volts. Also there is no need to disconnect battery terminals before charging. Just clamp on your charger in the same fashion you would normally use booster cables(but don't start or crank your vehicle). When finished charging remove charging cables before attempting to start.

Imo you have 2 possibilities here. Either your battery has issues causing your charging system to output higher voltage in an attempt to fully charge it, or your charging system is messed up (unable to maintain proper Volt/Amps range) resulting in battery not being fully charged.
Concur. Hard to tell from the OP information he has provided just what tests he has done with what equipment. He said he had a device to measure system but has given no information as to if he has tested the charging system. This unclarity makes it difficult to offer any advice. Not clear if he has taken car to dealer and/or who performed tests.
 

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yes I checked the charging system,it says normal,starter is new
Was the BMS reset when you put Motorcraft battery in? If so, who did the reset and how was it done?
 

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OK. I am going to guess that the BMS was reset by the dealer or you reset it using Forscan or equivalent so the the "days in service" counter read 0 when you installed the new battery. My only suggestion and observation at this point, is perhaps your measurement meter is bad. I believe (if it is like mine) it can give spurious results. At this point, I would take the vehicle to the dealer and get the electrical system checked using their equipment (I believe that Centex alluded to this). Based on the information that you have provided things just don't line up. Take the possible insturment and measurement errors out of the equation as far as possible. Good luck and let us know what you finally conclude.

Edit: a couple of more thoughts. My charging sytem device says "Good, Ok to charge" meaning the battery tests out by the device as a good battery and can be charged. This is as opposed to "bad, replace". Perhaps a semantics issue? Also, have you pulled the battery SOC value from the OBDII reader? If so, what value are you getting?
 
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To me it seems his battery always gets to the same state of charge regardless whether he drove the vehicle or put the portable charger on. He keeps measuring 486 cold cranking amps out of battery rated for 570. My bet is on the battery at this point.
 

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Two year old battery down approximately 85 cold cranking amps and checks good is probably a realistic figure. At that rate it should last another year or two depending on weather conditions. Sounds about right for a wet cell battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Today I was in my car with the radio on and engine off, the battery went dead in 15 minutes
I am saying it has to be the Battery! I had to jump start,it was completely dead
 
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