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Actually that is what the guy said. The "flash" took about 30 minute (I think) which is why I am unclear. How long does it take to reset the BLM via Forscan? My sense is that it should be VERY quick. Is that true?

Thanks.
Basically, I said reset, and it immediately came back and said it had been done. :)
 

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I agree that the BMS reset using FORScan takes care of everything needed when replacing a battery as described by @atlcarl69 (replacement with same battery spec as OEM).

With regard to dealer servicing procedures ...

From reading lots of Ford-related forum threads I've formed the impression (meaning I've no firm fact basis) that it's not uncommon for dealers to, if using IDS for service on a module, to reflash that entire module if not all modules with the latest "As-Built" for the VIN in question.

I put "As-Built" in quotes because IMHO that's a bit of a misnomer - It seems that in Ford IDS parlance that doesn't necessarily mean the exact program code that the car was delivered with, rather it means the then-current programming code for that VIN, which may include any number of updates large or small that Ford has developed and decided are appropriate for vehicles with the equipment matching that VIN.

Again, I've no firm fact basis I can point to in support of my "impression" and I could be all wrong. Nor do I know that all dealers necessarily follow the same 'practice' I describe, even if my general impression is correct.

Back to the heart of the thread ... I've not yet had to replace my battery but having done both cowl removal and tinkering with the airbox for other reasons, I'll certainly be using the 'Air Box Method' when my time is due. Nice to know of both approaches but that'll be my personal preference based on my experience to date; others might choose different and that's cool, but no reason for argument or ranting advocacy either way, IMHO. I'm thankful, too, that FORScan provides a method to support complete correct DIY battery replacement, regardless of the mechanical approach used.
 

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I replaced my battery using the air filter access.

Interesting that my lift gate was up during the change, and would not work after.
I manually closed it, and then it went back to normal.
 

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I replaced my battery using the air filter access.

Interesting that my lift gate was up during the change, and would not work after.
I manually closed it, and then it went back to normal.
I've encountered the same when doing 'liftgate up' battery disconnects in conjunction with cargo-area audio mods; I think the gate just forgets its 'position' and needs a gentle reminder after the battery is reconnected - all OK after closing it manually just like you found, no worries!
 

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I recently had to replace the Battery on my 2014. After looking at the different methods of getting it out, I choose to go through the Air Box. I found this Video useful. Ford Escape Battery Replacement - The Battery Shop by The Battery Shop.

One big tip there is to disconnect the Neg battery cable / stud from the body first. This is great for a couple of reasons, but it will greatly help in sliding the battery out, enabling you to loosing the Negative terminal from the battery post where you have more room to loosen it.




thanks for videolink.
 

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Just had to do this last night. Battery had acted up a few times during the month, but it completely was dead yesterday morning. Then again after work, and again after my classes last night. Had my wife pick me up the battery and changed it when I got home. Wasn't too bad, I've done much more difficult jobs when I worked at an auto shop.

I think the only frustrating part was that I didn't have a deep 13mm socket for the ground cable (connected to the frame). Everything else was easy.
 

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I used the removal of the airbox to replaced mom's battery on her 13.. was easier than I thought.
 

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This method is WAY better than the cowl removal method I read about on this forum (IMO). Now I have to see if I need a Forscan tool like VW with it's VCDS, Ugh...gone are the days when a good set of mechanics tools did what you needed, now you need specialized software to boot!
 

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How long does it take to replace the battery using air box method?
I do know removing the wipers arms and cowl takes no more than 20 minutes to get to the battery.
After that it is a cakewalk!
 

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How long does it take to replace the battery using air box method?
I do know removing the wipers arms and cowl takes no more than 20 minutes to get to the battery.
After that it is a cakewalk!
I know it's been a while and you probably got your answer, but last night I did the air box method and it took me about 45 minutes. it's not 'horrible' but good lord it's convoluted for a battery change. I changed the wifes 2012 battery in around 5 minutes earlier this year.

I haven't changed the BMS yet, I only have a generic code scanner as well as a blutooth one that I got off amazon for cheap.
 

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I know it's been a while and you probably got your answer, but last night I did the air box method and it took me about 45 minutes. it's not 'horrible' but good lord it's convoluted for a battery change. I changed the wifes 2012 battery in around 5 minutes earlier this year.

I haven't changed the BMS yet, I only have a generic code scanner as well as a blutooth one that I got off amazon for cheap.
There may be others but I have never known a vehicle that has the battery in such a stupid awkward place that requires dismantling part of the car to get at it. I have even had cars (MX5) that had the battery in the boot/trunk or behind the spare wheel (MR2) but at least you can get at it...:(
 

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The easiest way is the wiper arm and cowl removal
no more than 15 minutes to get to the Battery!
Then putting in the Battery is a slum dunk !!
 

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The easiest way is the wiper arm and cowl removal

no more than 15 minutes to get to the Battery!

Then putting in the Battery is a slum dunk !!

Please keep this discussion to the other thread that discusses this method.
 

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There may be others but I have never known a vehicle that has the battery in such a stupid awkward place that requires dismantling part of the car to get at it. I have even had cars (MX5) that had the battery in the boot/trunk or behind the spare wheel (MR2) but at least you can get at it...:(
My wife's old Sebring was darn near as troublesome- you had to remove the front driver's side wheel and fender well liner and pull the battery out. Had 2 posts under the hood for jumping, but no way to remove the battery from there :(
I did my '14 Escape in about 30-35 minutes using the air box method, since Wallyworld wouldn't do it They told me that AFTER I'd been waiting for about 45 minutes. I had specifically pointed out to them what all it would entail to do the swap, but was assured there would be no problem doing it. I can't believe I'm the first 2013 or newer Escape to ever been in there.

They replaced the Sebring's battery for free.
 

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My ~5 ½ year old original battery died on me this week. Luckily, the car was in my garage. Because I did not want to remove my Redline hood struts, that’s a whole other story, to remove the cowl l chose the air box method to replace the battery.
The video is pretty much spot on except for the part at ~2.00 minutes where he removes the lower air box assembly. Because of the 3 whatever they're called on the bottom of the assembly (not shown in the video) it requires a little bit of force to remove it (see pic).

Bottom Lower Air Box.JPG

Like in the video, I had to remove the wire loom plastic fasteners to get the front of the battery box down enough to slide the battery forward. I noticed in the video that he used a Lisle 35260 Plastic Fastener Remover. This is a must tool for your toolbox. It’s inexpensive and I have used it several times to remove plastic fasteners.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-35260-Plastic-Fastener-Remover/dp/B0002SRCMO
It took me about 1 ½ - 2 hours, I’m old and slow, to replace the battery using this method, including time to clean some corrosion off the negative terminal. After installing the new battery, I used clear silicone grease to coat the terminals.

I had planned to replace the battery with an Interstate battery from Costco, but because of low demand, our local Costco stopped stocking it. https://costco.interstatebatteries.com/home/results?key=auto&ZipCode=37801&l=37801&Program=100500&choice1=1405878&choice2=1406833&choice3=1406862&choice4=1406866&choice5=1406867&Country=US
I purchased a Bosch battery, 590 CCA and 3-year free replacement, from Pep Boys. With a 20% off instant rebate ($25.) the price was $99.99 + tax. https://www.pepboys.com/bosch-premium-performance-battery-group-size-96r/product/9929951/2014/FORD/ESCAPE/4-121 2.0L DOHC?quantity=1
There’s also an additional $20. submit online/mail in Visa Prepaid card rebate until 2/24. That brings the price down to $79.99 + tax.
http://img.rewardpromo.com/1/7226/20407.pdf
https://pepboysrebates.rewardpromo.com/#/home/receipts
They will install the battery for an extra $22. fee. From their website: "Your vehicle has a difficult battery installation which requires additional service time for your technician." I didn’t ask what method they use.

Except for having to reset the time and date, all my settings and our 2 paired phones were intact.

I reset the BMS using the latest FORScan software. https://www.forscan.org/download.html and a bbfly-BF32302 USB OBD-II Scan Tool. I purchased it from AliExpress last year for $17. It’s no longer available there but can still be purchased from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/bbfly-BF32302-modified-Windows-ELMconfig-Forscan/dp/B01N9R9QS2 It uses a FTDI chip. It comes with a USB driver CD, or you can download the latest USB drivers from FTDI. https://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm
For this scan tool set FORScan’s Connection type to FTDI and MS-CAN Support to HS/MS switch.

Torques from the video:
Holdown Bracket Nuts: 8nm = 71 inch-pounds. IMO, this is a bit high. I tightened them until snug.
Terminal Nuts and Lower Air Cleaner assembly screws: 5nm = 44 inch-pounds. I torqued the terminal nuts but, IMO, too high for the screws.
Negative Terminal shaft Nut: 23nm = 17 foot-pounds. I torqued this nut.
 

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BobP.....thanks for info but I am also old and slow and that sounds like an absolute nightmare.

Hopefully my local Ford dealer can do it for me down the track and reset the BMS etc. I think I would rather get ripped off in labour for this job than attempt it myself not being very confident or mechanically minded...
 

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BobP.....thanks for info but I am also old and slow and that sounds like an absolute nightmare.

Hopefully my local Ford dealer can do it for me down the track and reset the BMS etc. I think I would rather get ripped off in labour for this job than attempt it myself not being very confident or mechanically minded...
It's really not as bad as it looks and it gives you a chance to inspect the air filter. After 20K miles mine needed to be replaced.

Dirty Air Filter.JPG
 
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