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replaced battery for my 2014 today

I want to thank everyone for the sharing.

The battery on my Escape 2014 SE died a few days ago. A local shop asked $40 of new battery installation and another $60 for BMS reset.

I decided to do it myself.

I tried the wiper arm and cowl method first. Unfortunately, I could not get the wipers off. So I switched to this air filter way.

Here are the steps I follow:

Disconnect the negative battery cable/ stud from the body. one 13mm nut, Need a long socket to do this job.
Remove the battery cover.
Remove the air cleaner cover, remove four 8mm nuts .
Remove the air cleaner.
Remove the lower air box assembly. loose two 8mm nuts on the left side, don’t need to completely remove them. then pull the assembly out. There are three plastic hooks(sorry I don't know how to call them) on the bottom of the assembly, requires a little bit of force to pull them out.
Remove the wire loop grommet attached to the battery side. Move the wire away. Some people did not do this, but removing them give me more space when move the old battery out. Don’t need to remove the two nuts at the bottom of the front of the battery box like some videos show, them will just fold down with the front cover.
Remove the positive battery cable. 10mm nut
Bring the front of the battery box down.
Remove the batteries hold down bracket. Removing the two 10mm nuts was hard for me because there is no enough space for my wrench. A short socket could not reach the nuts. I tried a long socket first, after screwing the nuts up a little bit, use a short socket.
Move the battery forward.
Disconnect the negative battery cable. There are two cables connecting to the negative pole. One is already loosed in the beginning of the process, another short one, connecting to somewhere back, does not allow me pull the battery out too much. I have to wiggle the loosed cable a few times to get the cables out of the pole.
Remove the old battery.

Put the new battery on, clean the poles, clean the positive/negative cables.
Reinstall negative battery cable. Re-tighten the nut.
Put the battery in, install the hold down bracket.
Reinstall the front of the battery box.
Reinstall positive battery cable. Tight the 10mm nut
Reinstall the wiring harness (if you removed them)
Reinstall the lower air cleaner assembly
Reinstall the air filter/air filter cover.
Reinstall battery cover
Reinstall the neg battery cable.( I did this after reinstall the positive cable to new battery).
 

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Being naturally clumsy I would have got the shop to do it and reset the BMS FOR $100. Did you also reset the BMS yourself?
 

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Hi John,

Yes I did. Posted on the BMS reset thread. post 150. Sorry I could not paste the link here.

I agree that $100 is a very reasonable price. I have been with that shop for many years and know the owner quite well.
I mainly want to try this Forscan thing. have another Ford vehicle(Edge 17).
 

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Don’t need to remove the two nuts at the bottom of the front of the battery box like some videos show, them will just fold down with the front cover.
Nice write-up. Maybe I missed it in the video but I didn't see him remove these 2 nuts, nor did I.

My main air hose was loose and when I removed the bottom air box assembly the hose fell off. If your hose is loose enough, then this could be an alternate method of removing the lower air box assembly without having to loosen the the 2-8mm screws.
Here's some more pics.
Wire loom detached and main air hose off. It may also be possible to remove the wire loom connector in the fuse box to get enough slack to pull the front of the battery box down.
Wire Loom.JPG
2-8mm screws that hold the main air hose assembly to the lower air box assembly.
Lower Air Box Screws.JPG
Check that your main air hose is tight when re-assembling everything. The screw to tighten the clamp on the hose is on the lower right. I could only reach it with a long flat bladed screwdriver.
main air intake hose.JPG
 

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To BobP,

You are right. In the video here the two nuts at the bottom of the front of the battery box are not touched.

I watched another video on carcarekiosk.com, which shows to remove those two nuts.
 

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Battery replacement
the easiest way is to remove the wipers and cowl. At the most 15 minutes to get to the Battery
Took my car to my local dealer and they did battery reset for Free!!
Why do things the hard way?
 

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Battery replacement
the easiest way is to remove the wipers and cowl. At the most 15 minutes to get to the Battery
Took my car to my local dealer and they did battery reset for Free!!
Why do things the hard way?
Third time in this thread you posted this. At least your finger didn't get stuck on the !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! key this time. And again I'm going to post that most dealers will not reset the BMS for free.
 

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Battery replacement
the easiest way is to remove the wipers and cowl. At the most 15 minutes to get to the Battery
Took my car to my local dealer and they did battery reset for Free!!
Why do things the hard way?


Please stay on topic. This thread is on the air box method of replacing the battery, not the cowl method. If you have to keep posting this same statement, please make sure it’s in the correct thread.

BTW, you have been told this before, your way of doing things is not necessarily the best way for all. Everyone has a right to repair their vehicle the way they want to. Just because it works best for you, doesn’t mean it is the best way for someone else to do.
 

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I won’t be using the air box method. I just came from the dealership. I had to order a lower air box housing on my 2017. I broke it while trying to access the upper transmission fill port. There is not a removable cap for the transmission fill port on the 2017 and later models.
 

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I won’t be using the air box method. I just came from the dealership. I had to order a lower air box housing on my 2017. I broke it while trying to access the upper transmission fill port. There is not a removable cap for the transmission fill port on the 2017 and later models.

I don't know if you'd want to go removing the wipers/ cowling if you managed to break an air-filter box..... There is a lot more to go wrong/ break using that method. ;)
 

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mucrod
The problem I had was cramped working conditions and not being able to see exactly what was going on underneath the air box housing. I wouldn’t have any of those problems going with the cowl method. I am one cut up joker, right now. I’ve pulled wipers before. Indexing their positions beforehand is the key. Ford should have located the battery for easier access.
 

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Yep...that's the only complaint I have about the Escape. It is ridiculous that you cannot access a necessary component without having to go to all that trouble.

For instance in the past I have had my local road service agent call and replace my battery in other cars coz they usually fail in my garage and in my case with one vehicle I cannot drive anywhere to get a new one to fit it myself.

Now I do not have the confidence to dismantle everything in the Escape to get at it as I am retired and mildly disabled and my road service rep won't touch it because of the time and labour involved.

So when mine fails I will have to jump start it somehow and drive to my local Ford dealer to replace it at a ridiculous cost I expect.
 

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John Waugh
And, taking it to the dealership may be what I do. Once I get the new lower air box housing installed, I ain’t messing with that thing again. Well, I will take the top off to put a new filter in.
 

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I've had the wipers and cowling off to do other work.



I wouldn't do it again unless there was no other way to access whatever component I was working on. You end up with the brake fluid reservoir hanging in free air, the wipers need a puller to remove them, the wiper motors spin freely with power off (adding to the fun of getting the wipers in exactly the same position.) If you don't get them right then you can either pull them off and try again - or leave them in the new parked position and use ForScan (or FoCCCus)- with a laptop and Ford compatible OBD2 interface- to do the wiper maximum sweep position reset. The clips holding the cowling together are also the type with jagged teeth- each time you remove them they gouge more plastic off the cowling.


If the air box method is slower, that's fine by me.



If you're concerned about battery failure and getting stuck, perhaps get roadside assistance that includes towing? If they won't change your battery in situ get it towed to a dealer. You could also do a preventative battery change and upgrade to an AGM battery (you're less likely to have a sudden failure from something like a cell collapsing.) You could also invest in one of those portable lithium ion jump starters- I'm not sure how good they are though?
 

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If you're concerned about battery failure and getting stuck, perhaps get roadside assistance that includes towing? If they won't change your battery in situ get it towed to a dealer. You could also do a preventative battery change and upgrade to an AGM battery (you're less likely to have a sudden failure from something like a cell collapsing.) You could also invest in one of those portable lithium ion jump starters- I'm not sure how good they are though?[/QUOTE]

Yep...I am with NRMA roadside service which includes towing which you would know about David coming from Australia.
I suppose the other problem is resetting the BMS which I would probably need the dealer to do anyway...:crying:
 

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Yes, I'm with RAA and courtesy of having a 70's vintage vehicle I've taken out their dearer membership which includes longer towing distances. ;) I haven't had to use it yet.



Come to think of it Ford Australia give you free RAA/RACV/NRMA etc. 12mth membership with your yearly service! Combined with the free Nav map upgrades it's not too bad a deal.


If you've got a laptop buy yourself a Ford compatible OBD2 interface and try using ForScan. Have a play around - even just reading engine operating data. It's an excellent tool to have.
 

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Yes, I'm with RAA and courtesy of having a 70's vintage vehicle I've taken out their dearer membership which includes longer towing distances. ;) I haven't had to use it yet.



Come to think of it Ford Australia give you free RAA/RACV/NRMA etc. 12mth membership with your yearly service! Combined with the free Nav map upgrades it's not too bad a deal.


If you've got a laptop buy yourself a Ford compatible OBD2 interface and try using ForScan. Have a play around - even just reading engine operating data. It's an excellent tool to have.
Yep...I have the free roadside assist membership, free map updates and also an extra 4 years Ford dealer warranty all til 2024.
As you know dealer warranties are difficult to claim on though unless you are a certain height and weight, been married for a specific time and know John Travolta and Meryl Streep personally...:)
 
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