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My 2013 Escape 2.0 had a tough time during zero temps keeping a full charge. We went to Florida for 2 weeks and took my Jeep Grand Cherokee to leave at the Boston airport. Good thing, because when we got home, the Escape was dead as a door nail. I could not see anything that could have caused a elec drawdown other the the alarm was set. Jump started it and let it charge up. But even after a few more cold days it cranks rather slow. I think the battery is not up to speed with so many cold nights. I would like to replace with the larger battery, but sounds like the Ford dealers are not set up to do that? Do they offer a larger battery yet? Has anyone had Sears change their battery with the Diehard?
Do you have a Pano roof? There is a TSB out about the motors of the roof will drain your battery. It takes 2 weeks to kill the battery according to the TSB, and since your battery was already iffy I thought that might be the culprit. TSB 13-3-4

Some 2013 Escape vehicles built on 8/28/2012 and
through 12/5/2012 and equipped with a roof Roof Opening Panel
may exhibit a discharged battery
condition only after the vehicle has not been driven
for two weeks or longer.
 

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Thanks,
Yes, I have the Pano roof. So that must be the problem. I guess I will see if there is any updates to address the problem. Or install the bigger battery and get a couple more weeks before it poops out. Battery shut off switch would help, but make it impossible to get back into the car unless you leave it unlocked. In my garage that would work.
 

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Thanks,
Yes, I have the Pano roof. So that must be the problem. I guess I will see if there is any updates to address the problem. Or install the bigger battery and get a couple more weeks before it poops out. Battery shut off switch would help, but make it impossible to get back into the car unless you leave it unlocked. In my garage that would work.
you could still use the metal key contained in your fob to open the drivers door.
 

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Thanks,
Yes, I have the Pano roof. So that must be the problem. I guess I will see if there is any updates to address the problem. Or install the bigger battery and get a couple more weeks before it poops out. Battery shut off switch would help, but make it impossible to get back into the car unless you leave it unlocked. In my garage that would work.
I would tell your dealer about the problem. Are you out of your warrenty period? If not, there are new roof motors that will resolve your problem. If you are out of warrenty, then the dealer may or may not charge you.
 

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12V batteries aren't 12V and because the laws of physics apply here the "13.8V" charging system isn't going anywhere. Lead oxide and sulfuric is a losing battle that will continue to eat batteries long after we are gone no matter what kind of fancy charging cycles we implement.
At the SEMA show a few years back, there was talk that the manufacturers would be switching to a 54V system due to the amount of current required for all of the electronics in the vehicles. Has anyone heard anything about that?
>:D
 

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I bought the extended warranty. After all the problems I had already. Better be safe. I will check with the dealer when I get back. I have leave a car at the airport for 12 days this Saturday. I won't be using the Escape for sure. It's not an easy car to put jumper cables on either.
 

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54 Volts

At the SEMA show a few years back, there was talk that the manufacturers would be switching to a 54V system due to the amount of current required for all of the electronics in the vehicles. Has anyone heard anything about that?
>:D
spotterjoe,

A 54 Volt system would allow you to use smaller wire (less copper) and would save some vehicle weight. Airplanes used to have 28 Volt systems for some of the same reasons.

HKS
 

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When I just got my 2013 CPO FE the car was dead on the lot when I wanted to test drive it. It was sitting for a while so they jumped it. As we started to agree on a price and when we were close I said OK but I want a new battery since it is a CPO car and it was run down, they said ok.

So I got a new one and I am kind of happy I did seeing how muck work it is to replace one.

I read on here about the TSB for the shade motors, next time I go in for service i will mention it to them and see if my 2013 falls under the TSB and see if the shade motors can be replaced.
 

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spotterjoe,

A 54 Volt system would allow you to use smaller wire (less copper) and would save some vehicle weight. Airplanes used to have 28 Volt systems for some of the same reasons.

HKS
HKS, you are correct about the reduction in the wire size. They stated that since the new vehicles would have so much electronics/electric systems that 54V systems would be the next logical step. I was just wondering if there was any more talk about it. I remember back in 1956 when Ford switched from 6v to 12V.
>:D
 

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How to get to 54 Volts

13.5 Volts x 4 = 54 Volts in lead acid terms.

Lithium Ion is like 3.2Volts. That would take 18 of the 3.2 Volt cells.

HKS
 

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Measured voltage has nothing to do with the composition or technology of a battery, they are just commonly manufactured in voltage multiples of a standard 1.5 volts.
 

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Volts

I think,

Zinc dry cell = 1.5 volts. Nicad cell = 1.2 volts. Lithium cells are stamped 3.0 volts but may put out more when new. Lead acid cell = 2.2 volts (2.2 x 6 cells = 13.2 volts).

I don't remember the Nickel Metal Hydride voltage.
HKS
 

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restored - great DIY for ALL '13-'17 ESCAPE

THIS IS A RESTORATION OF LONG-GONE @alphapart's GREAT ORIGINAL POST WITH ORIGINAL PICS FROM A PDF COPY I'D SAVED BEFORE THE PHOTOSHOP DEBACLE - ALL TEXT AND PICS BY alphapart

Tools/parts needed: 10 mm crescent wrench, 10 mm & 13 mm sockets/wrench, replacement battery (see discussion for size) and a cold beer

Approximate time required: 30 min

Quick discussion about batteries: All of the 2013 Escapes come standard with a size 96R battery. It's one of the smallest batteries (in terms of cranking amps, reserve capacity, & weight) that you can get [I'm referencing the Duracell Automotive Battery spec sheet - these are the batteries sold at Sam's club].



In other words, the stock battery sucks. I assume Ford was saving some money with the 96R battery, but the good news is that the battery tray can accept a larger battery without any cutting, drilling, or any other permanent modifications. And who doesn't want more cranking amps and reserve capacity? Especially if you run a lot of accessories (remote start, tow, lights etc.)

So how big can I go?? The simple answer is that a size 94R (H7) fits without any trouble. See the pictures below for the relative size comparison. I'm using an AGM battery, but a normal flooded battery should fit just the same.



Battery removal/replacement:

1. Turn off the car and and prop the hood open. Locate the battery cover and air intake which houses the air filter. Remove the battery cover and disconnect the positive wire using a 10 mm wrench. Pop open the air intake as if you were replacing the air filter, but don't remove the air filter. Just disconnect the wire plugged in at the top and move the cover to the left so it's out of the way. (The plug is easily removed by pushing the red plastic piece back with your finger nail about a quarter inch, then pull the entire plug backwards.)



With the air intake out of the way, you should be able to access the 4 black plastic plugs (green arrows in the picture). Pull all four of these plugs out. Now you should be able to lift the front cover of the battery tray about 1 inch so that it has some free movement. With the cover lifted up about 1 inch, you should be able to access the two wires that are attached on the bottom left of the cover (red arrows in the picture). Use a 10 mm socket and a 13 mm socket to remove the nuts and then slide the wires off. I've already removed the 10 mm nut in the picture below. Don't drop the 13 mm nut; it's not attached to the wire like the 10 mm one!



Now you should be able to move the battery tray front cover out the way to the right like this:



Before we can move the battery, we need to loosen the clamp holding it down. Remove the two nuts that are holding the metal clamp (green arrows in pciture). The bar can then be lifted off the bolts.



Pull the battery forward and lift it over the edge of the tray. Don't worry, the negative wire should be long enough, but keep an eye on the small wire plugged into the negative terminal (green arrow in picture). Don't put excessive tension on this small wire. Now you should have enough room to use your hand to unplug the small wire from the side of the negative terminal. With the small wire out of the way, the battery should come forward all the way, and you can use a 10 mm wrench to remove the negative terminal.



Remove the old battery from the vehicle.

The empty battery tray should look like this. Note the two plastic adapters that Ford added to accommodate the smaller battery (green arrows). Remove both of these plastic pieces. The rear piece easily pops out by hand. The piece in the front needs to be gently pried upwards.




Congratulations! Now your Ford Escape can accept a "real" battery.



Now get your replacement battery and essentially reverse the process. If you are using the larger 94R (H7) size battery, you may need to remove the handles if it has any so that the metal battery clamp can fit nicely in the center groove. I've included more pictures below of the new battery being installed.





Now that you're finished, you can relax and enjoy the cold beer.

THIS IS A RESTORATION OF LONG-GONE @alphapart's GREAT ORIGINAL POST WITH ORIGINAL PICS FROM A PDF COPY I'D SAVED BEFORE THE PHOTOSHOP DEBACLE - ALL TEXT AND PICS BY alphapart
 

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post required to complete above restoration due to attached pics limit
 

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unfortunately for me I can not open your photobucket pictures
Anywhere on this or any other website, when you see



the ability to open/view ^those^ pics has been eliminated by a recent change in Photobucket.com hosting/photo-sharing policies.

The pics in the post I 'restored' (post 74) are not hosted on Photobucket, they are hosted on this forum's server as "attachments". You can 'open' those pics by clicking on the "Attached Thumbnails" at the bottom of the post (at least that works if you are using a 'normal browser' .... may be different if using TapaTalk, etc).

Are you able to see the pics in post 74 when you view that post? If not, what browser are you using to view this site?
 

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@centex I'm able to see your images using Tapatalk and Chrome.
Cool, thanks.

Can you delete the empty double-post 75 as a 'clean-up' item .... I had fits getting this all done ;)

Maybe even add a 'jump link with note' in post one to the 'restored' post 74 so folks can see the OP's original pics ?
 
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