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2014 Escape AWD SE, I was leaving a gas pump and I hit the center "island" surrounding the pump, it made the loudest bang i've heard in a long time, I assumed I wiped out the quarter panel somehow, now I wish I had. I pulled over, and the right rear wheel is toed out probably 4" towards the right front of the vehicle.

I put it on the lift, looked underneath, and could see the lower control arm was visibly twisted back towards the rear. I replaced the control arm yesterday, and it didn't change all that much at all, it's "better" but still way off. The TC light and the hill assist warning were lit prior to changing the control arm, and after the install they are no longer lit.

Here's the major issue, I cannot see anything else that is visibly bent beyond the lower arm that I replaced, but with the way the right rear (RR) wheel is toed out, I am assuming I bent the knuckle assembly somehow? I removed the trailing link that goes from the knuckle to the subframe, and the bolts came out easily, not crooked, they threaded back in fine, etc. so, I can replace the knuckle assembly, which I see I cannot just buy the black trailing arm by itself?

If replacing the knuckle/trailing arm doesn't get the toe at least back to somewhat normal, i'm at a total loss.

I will post pics as soon as I upload them, so you fine folks can see how bad it is.
 

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Are the mounting points on the subframe/ body all okay?
 

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Careful comparison (eyeball, straightedge, and point-to-point measurements) of the symmetric though mirrored left and right will probably give a good indication of what's screwed up.

Were it me, I'd completely disassemble the right suspension / drivetrain to conduct a thorough inspection.

Given your description I'd not be surprised to find multiple locating arms bent and/or distortion / tearing at their respective subframe / body pan mounts. You may find slightly 'elongated' / stretched mounting bolt holes and/or subtle 'wrinkling' of the mounting flanges on the subframe. The degree of bends / displacement / distortion may be subtle but of course all critical to rear alignment and any hopes of ever getting it to all align / track correctly again.

If you managed to drive any distance the right rear halfshaft CV joint(s) may also have exceeded their operating angle limits and suffered yet undetected internal damage.

If you find any displacement / distortion of the subframe>locating arm hard points IMO your best bet may be to find a front-end damaged wreck and swap-out the entire rear subframe with suspension as a unit. Most repair facilities won't even attempt to correct a damaged subframe - it's too labor intensive and the outcome is hit-or-miss.

I can replace the knuckle assembly, which I see I cannot just buy the black trailing arm by itself?
No explaining Ford parts bundling - wrecking / used parts yards are the option.

Good luck, try to keep laughing.
 

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How difficult was it to get the new control arm in? If the horizontal axis appears straight, then i'd look at the vertical axis. Strut/shock tower, knuckle, got twisted.

As Centex suggested disassembly of the entire damaged side is most likely necessary. In the process of doing that you need to visually compare the left and right side of the vehicle to see what looks "out of place" on the messed up side. Also, checking your mounting points for distortion. A quarter inch bend in a mounting point can translate to a one inch or more difference at the other end depending on the length of the part and what else it's attached to.

A body shop does more than just visually inspect. They have have specifications on what distances and angles are acceptable for various mounting points and various points of interest on the suspension to check that the geometry is correct. If one of those measurements is off, then the geometry will be off.
 

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A body shop does more than just visually inspect. They have have specifications on what distances and angles are acceptable for various mounting points and various points of interest on the suspension to check that the geometry is correct.
Agree, and therefore interesting (to me at least) that when I look at the '13-'14 Escape WSM it lacks any point-to-point dimensional info on the front and rear subframes. Plenty of that sort of info for the unibody / "Frame", but none on the subframes and respective suspension mounting points ( ! ? )

Perhaps indicative of the intent that when those subframes are damaged they are to be replaced rather than repaired, though one might reasonably question how one is to determine subtle damage lacking OE dimensional data?

Curious.
 

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I would look closely at what I will call the upper control arm. It has a natural bow to it and to me would be the weak link. If you bent the lower I would think the upper would also go. Being that it normally has a bow in it you may just have to replace it to see if it is the culprit. I would think that an accurate measurement may be difficult. Sometimes If you remove the item, with close inspection you maybe able to see a metal or paint defect from the bending process. I would think that piece would bend before mounting locations or the "spindle"
 

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Agree, and therefore interesting (to me at least) that when I look at the '13-'14 Escape WSM it lacks any point-to-point dimensional info on the front and rear subframes. Plenty of that sort of info for the unibody / "Frame", but none on the subframes and respective suspension mounting points ( ! ? )

Perhaps indicative of the intent that when those subframes are damaged they are to be replaced rather than repaired, though one might reasonably question how one is to determine subtle damage lacking OE dimensional data?

Curious.
That would be my thought as well if the subchassis/frames have no data; Simply remove and replace the entire subsection.

There may be other indirect means of determine if the sub section is in need of replacement like the alignment specs are off or the doors do not properly align when adjustments are made etc. Kind of a "you know 'A' failed if 'B' cannot be brought into spec with standard adjustments available for 'B' I think the severe toe of the passenger rear 'B' would be a tell-tale that the sub 'A' has failed.
 

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Look for possible cracked paint around mounting area locations. Especially fresh shiney areas where bolts or bushings goes through the substructures. That's why the paint race car chassis with often a grey color to see the paint crack on something that may be bent.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
How difficult was it to get the new control arm in? If the horizontal axis appears straight, then i'd look at the vertical axis. Strut/shock tower, knuckle, got twisted.

As Centex suggested disassembly of the entire damaged side is most likely necessary. In the process of doing that you need to visually compare the left and right side of the vehicle to see what looks "out of place" on the messed up side. Also, checking your mounting points for distortion. A quarter inch bend in a mounting point can translate to a one inch or more difference at the other end depending on the length of the part and what else it's attached to.
Yep, it was. Boy, that is not a fun job to try and diagnose what actually was bent/twisted, etc.

I ended up buying a used knuckle assembly, with the trailing arm, and surprisingly it also had the control arms on it, upon arrival.

I replaced basically all the parts, minus the shock, and the brakes, and had it aligned today (2 months later) and it's back to "normal" I say that because the toe is still wacky in these Escapes, but it tracked straight on the way home.

I'm still shocked such a low impact hit did that much damage to the right rear suspension!
 

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Yep, it was. Boy, that is not a fun job to try and diagnose what actually was bent/twisted, etc.

I ended up buying a used knuckle assembly, with the trailing arm, and surprisingly it also had the control arms on it, upon arrival.

I replaced basically all the parts, minus the shock, and the brakes, and had it aligned today (2 months later) and it's back to "normal" I say that because the toe is still wacky in these Escapes, but it tracked straight on the way home.

I'm still shocked such a low impact hit did that much damage to the right rear suspension!
Same thing for me. Coming up our driveway a family member bumped/low impact a cut tree log by the right rear tire and at first I thought the hole in the tire sidewall was all that was wrong. (rim was fine)
After a new tire I took it up the street and boy was it messed up. Steering wheel off and really sloppy handling. Only drove it 1/4 mile and parked it.

From the rear I can see the lower control arm is twisted down a little and the lateral trailing arm running toward the front is bent as well. Same as you I can't find JUST the lateral trailing arm that bolts the the knuckle. I'll probably end up getting parts at a salvage yard as well.

Again though, low impact on the RR tire under 3-4 MPH and ending up with WAY more damage that expected....
 

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Same thing for me. Coming up our driveway a family member bumped/low impact a cut tree log by the right rear tire and at first I thought the hole in the tire sidewall was all that was wrong. (rim was fine)
After a new tire I took it up the street and boy was it messed up. Steering wheel off and really sloppy handling. Only drove it 1/4 mile and parked it.

From the rear I can see the lower control arm is twisted down a little and the lateral trailing arm running toward the front is bent as well. Same as you I can't find JUST the lateral trailing arm that bolts the the knuckle. I'll problem end up getting parts at a salvage yard as well.

Again though, low impact on the RR tire under 3-4 MPH and ending up with WAY more damage that expected....
I should add it's a 2017 2.0 AWD Titanium
 

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Parts order, should be in today. Ended up same as OP, ordered a salvage yard knuckle with ALL the arms attached just incase.
Took the right rear down to the knuckle then removed that too. Not sure what was bent so I replaced everything same as OP. It seems to be fixed. Test drive was good except for a slight pull to the left and the steering wheel slightly to the right. I'm off to get it alignment tomorrow.
 
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