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Hello Again.
I should elaborate more on my symptoms. The heater turns on by itself to a temp of 24 degrees. The windows , all except the driver side back window do not open. The instrument panel illuminates all the warning signs like service engine soon, ABS light comes on , a few other warning lights as well. Just some of the symptoms. Disconnected battery the most recent time and problem temporarily went away. Now in a Ford dealership shop where we originally purchased vehicle new. Seriously not impressed especially after reading all these blogs and also seeing recalls in Canada and U.S. Dealership keeps saying no recall regarding our problem, have not pinpointed problem so we are waiting to see what they( dealership and / or Ford Canada ) are prepared to do. Hopefully one of the 2 will step up. Sure looks like a lot of the same problems/ issues in some of the recalls. If it is not it definitely should be a recall. Again is there anyone out there that can enlighten us as to what to expect or how other people are having success with their problem. Any information is appreciated.
 

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you must get to the negative battery cable on the battery post!
mine was loose and full of corrosion!!
It caused all sort of gremlins like you are having
Replace negative battery cable with the most recent updated part
Read my earlier posts!!
I have gone over everything with part numbers.
 

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@thedaries: To answer your question, Ford dealership was unable to fix my 2013's problem after about 5 service appointments (I honestly lost track), even after consulting with the factory. I purchased and replaced the negative cable with sensor. (Thanks waverunner10!) It seemed to do the trick, and the dealership sent me a check to pay for the cable and what they had charged me to date for their failed attempts at repair. I traded the Escape in back in June and now have a C-Max. Aside from this issue, the Escape was a good vehicle, but I was not impressed with the support.
 

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@loulamb
Update - 2500 miles with no issues. Dealership refunded my money for the unsuccessful repairs AND paid for the cable I bought online.
Are there step-by-step instructions somewhere for replacing the negative battery cable? I have been searching everywhere for more than a week but have come up with nothing. My car is having this intermittent issue starting. Basically, I press the start button and everything dies. No screens, remote doesn't work--like the car has no battery. When I wiggle the battery cables everything comes back. No other issues with the car and the battery was replaced at the dealer in March.

Also, since this cable has the BMS on it, does anything need to be programmed or reset?
 

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@loulamb


Are there step-by-step instructions somewhere for replacing the negative battery cable? I have been searching everywhere for more than a week but have come up with nothing. My car is having this intermittent issue starting. Basically, I press the start button and everything dies. No screens, remote doesn't work--like the car has no battery. When I wiggle the battery cables everything comes back. No other issues with the car and the battery was replaced at the dealer in March.

Also, since this cable has the BMS on it, does anything need to be programmed or reset?
I am not aware of any but that does not mean there are none. I just started reading this thread and found it very interesting. First, consider posting your vehicle year, model, sync version and other important informaiton in your signature line. Helps us all help you. Second, read the threads on battery replacement. If you decided to do this, you will be going through a process very much like that. Be aware that by disconnecting the battery, you will lose certain setting which the car will have to re-learn. You will have two methods to get to the negative battery terminal, the air filter box removal method or the cowl removal method.
 

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@loulamb

Are there step-by-step instructions somewhere for replacing the negative battery cable? I have been searching everywhere for more than a week but have come up with nothing. My car is having this intermittent issue starting. Basically, I press the start button and everything dies. No screens, remote doesn't work--like the car has no battery. When I wiggle the battery cables everything comes back. No other issues with the car and the battery was replaced at the dealer in March.

Also, since this cable has the BMS on it, does anything need to be programmed or reset?
It's pretty simple, just take off the negative terminal from the battery, disconnect the battery current sensor harness, and then unbolt the end attached to the body and replace. If you need more room, then you will have to remove the wipers and the cowl and replace.
 

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Yes my escape is a 2014 SE FWD(17,684 miles) its pretty loaded for an SE purchased it brand new Leather heated seats, moonroof , the larger touchscreen and all the mytouch. The BCM failure made itself known by basically geeking out the radio would shut off off and come back on by itself and same with the heater. It would say something on the screen about my parking assist is engaged, well I dont have park assist. After awhile the whole dash and screen would shutoff, no tachometer no speedometer. Basically just use your imagination on what i was experiencing. The lady at the service desk says that aliens have taken over my vehicle. The 1st two times the BCM module was replaced under warranty and I'm sure this time it will be covered also.
The 1st time the warranty covered $2,178.65, the second time it costed $856.00.
I'm contacting customer relations tomorrow to talk to them about getting out of this vehicle. I think it is unsafe if I dont know how fast im going and no blinkers, hell i didnt even think about the brake light coming on when i hit the brakes.

THANK YOU FOR ANY FEEDBACK GUYS!!! TIM
afternoon Tim im having the exact same issues as you I was told yesterday it could be my BCM but I want to make sure I'm not wasting money and it happens again this car is wired my screen shots off saying power mode, hill assist pops up sometimes when im driving straight radio shuts off a/c goes in and out if I run the a/c and radio together it'll start losing power new battery, new alternator e.t.c check all fuses and some how car still act like it's losing power please help me understand the issue if you can . pat
 

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Remove the wipers arms and cowl!
will take 15>20 minutes
Watch a youtube video!!!
very easy and simple!!
...you seem pretty knowledgable about these type of cars. my escape titanium with a new battery new alternator fuses good still some ...how acts like it's losing power when driving sometimes the main screens shuts off with a message saying power saving mode, A/C goes in and out can't run the a/c and radio together it'll cut off again and the steering wheel will get hard as if the car shutting off . mechanic told me it may very well be the BCM I put so much money into this car now it's not so worth it. do you have an idea what this problem could be
 

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(Re my previous post...) Took it to dealership. They cleaned up the battery terminals and "updated software on several modules". Next day the same symptoms came back. Took it back to dealership - they have now had it 5 days and cannot duplicate the problem.

I found a post from 2013 on another forum that describes my scenario almost exactly, but there was no resolution...Instrument Cluster Turns On and Off While Driving
While driving down the highway yesterday all of a sudden my power windows stopped working on all windows except the left rear. Then the AC changed itself to 75 degrees defrost, no matter what I changed it to it would keep going back to that. Then the Nav gave off Nav fault alert. Then the instrument cluster started turning on and off like I was turning the car on and off, even giving a warning for not having the car in park (kind of tough since I was driving down the highway at 70 mph). Then the AC stopped working all together and the display went blank. The Nav screen began flickering. I got home to the safety of my driveway and turned the car off and it wouldn't turn back on again for about an hour.
 

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smh I have the Exact ! same problem right now breaking my pockets don't know what to do only had it for 6 months and been having problem with it for 4 months
 

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you must get to the negative battery cable on the battery post!
mine was loose and full of corrosion!!
It caused all sort of gremlins like you are having
Replace negative battery cable with the most recent updated part
Read my earlier posts!!
I have gone over everything with part numbers.
so you think I should just get the pigtail part ?
 

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so you think I should just get the pigtail part ?
That is the way I read his advice to you. It would be a good first start. If you have read this and other forums related to similiar issues then you know that a cooroded positive battery cable is discussed as a problem frequently and can lead to all sorts of "weird" unexplained electrical issues.
 

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That is the way I read his advice to you. It would be a good first start. If you have read this and other forums related to similiar issues then you know that a cooroded positive battery cable is discussed as a problem frequently and can lead to all sorts of "weird" unexplained electrical issues.
yes I agree I read nearly ten comments explaining the same issue, even some saying it wasn't even the module. and at times the car act like the battery is no good when in fact it's brand spanking new then next day or two cranks with no problem with out a jump weird. I know a few things about cars and if it's connected to the module then a malfunction can have the system going crazy sending mix signals to the computer do to a bad sensor on the cable connected to the battery so it made plenty sense especially when my mechanic said something may have the module going crazy
 

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https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-negative-cable-av6z10c679p/?c=Zz1lbGVjdHJpY2FsJnM9YmF0dGVyeSZpPUpLMTIwOTA1JnI9MTEmYT1mb3JkJm89ZXNjYXBlJnk9MjAxMyZ0PXRpdGFuaXVtJmU9Mi0wbC1sNC1nYXM=

the sensor on the negative cable has been updated at least 10 times since the car came out in 2013. the software is embedded in the sensor. I believe if you look at the latest sensor it will say ver 3.8
hey Warner where can i get this sensor for my 2014 ford escape titanium, i want to get it asap
 

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hey Warner where can i get this sensor for my 2014 ford escape titanium, i want to get it asap
the sensor is part of the negative cable!! "Battery management system" it is an integral part of the negative cable!!
the sensor is not separate!! this is sold as a whole unit
but it at a
dealer or online
I have given you the part number! go find the part online or buy it from a ford dealer!!!
 

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the sensor is part of the negative cable!! "Battery management system" it is an integral part of the negative cable!!
the sensor is not separate!! this is sold as a whole unit
but it at a
dealer or online
I have given you the part number! go find the part online or buy it from a ford dealer!!!
yea i noticed it right after i sent that message i ordered it to day. thanks
 
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