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Update: I replaced the negative battery cable with sensor (AV6Z10C679M) and so far have logged over 1000 miles with no problems. While I had the battery accessible I did a little snooping around with a flashlight and noticed that when the battery was replaced by the Ford dealership in April, they neglected to clean out the corrosion/acid deposits in the bottom of the battery box left by the previous battery. Thoroughly cleaned before reassembling, and also loosened, cleaned, and re-torqued the now-rusty bolts in case they are part of the grounding system.
hey bro i have the exact same issue some reason car act like it's losing battery power screen says shutting down to save power ac goes up then down computer icons going crazy, hill top, brakes, battery light. sensors etc. i have a new battery and new alternator still same problem one time windows didn't won't to go up sometime in traffic car sounds like it want to shut off i know a little about cars and can say i very much doubt it's the computer something feeding the bcm bad reads it'll make since it's a battery sensor since it seem like it's losing power, i ordered the part today the negative battery post with sensor and i got a strong feeling this is the issue
 

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hey bro i have the exact same issue some reason car act like it's losing battery power screen says shutting down to save power ac goes up then down computer icons going crazy, hill top, brakes, battery light. sensors etc. i have a new battery and new alternator still same problem one time windows didn't won't to go up sometime in traffic car sounds like it want to shut off i know a little about cars and can say i very much doubt it's the computer something feeding the bcm bad reads it'll make since it's a battery sensor since it seem like it's losing power, i ordered the part today the negative battery post with sensor and i got a strong feeling this is the issue
The grounding is on the drivers side wheel well!!
the Battery box bolts have nothing to do with it !!
just poor water in there and get rid of the acid!
 

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The grounding is on the drivers side wheel well!!
the Battery box bolts have nothing to do with it !!
just poor water in there and get rid of the acid!
thanks but i have no idea what I'll be looking for on the driver side wheel well. and it's exact location by the wheel
 

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As I had an intermittent issue with this a few months back and spent a lot of time staring at the battery, I can say the battery ground wire is attached to the driver side strut tower; photo attached. Unfortunately, I think the only proper way to get full visibility of the battery and its tray is to remove the wipers, cowl cover and drain tray; not as difficult as it sounds. At that point you can easily swap out the battery cable, clean the terminals with water/baking soda and a brush.
74962
 

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Well, last week it got interesting. I bought groceries, and returned to the 2015 Escape (Titanium 1.6l). Started up, but would not disengage from Park. While looking up how to override the interlock, it stalled with a Starting System Fault. Pushbutton would not shut it off, everything else seemed ok. So, being an IT guy, I thought I'd 'turn it off and turn it back on again', so I got out and hit the lock, and it locked up and shut down. Went in the store and got a wrench so I could disconnect the battery. I didn't have the presence of mind to try to read codes before I locked it.

Battery disconnect did nothing, still dead to the start/stop button. I knew the BMS was unlikely to be a problem as I'd replaced the battery not long ago and there was no corrosion present.

Read that the battery needs to be off ~40 mins to bleed residual energy out, so I did that. Still no response from start/stop so I went home and read up on fuses related. My plan was to check all related to the systems required, which are in all three fuse boxes. When I returned the next day, I hit the remote start and it fired right up. Locked up my bike, and got in to try to take it home. I made it less than a half mile, but managed to get off the road safely. Read the trouble codes before shutting it down by locking, all pointed to fuel pump control module, so I ordered one.

Put the fuel pump module in the next day, easy enough, it's under the carpet on the passenger rear seat side. Got in, no response from start/stop button. Removed the battery cable for 40-50 minutes, and reconnected. Started right up! Checked response to revs, worked as it should, ran for 15 minutes or so. Shut down to erase the DTCs, and started back up. Looked good so I had a friend meet me at my house and took the motorcycle home. When we returned, nothing. Called the insurance company and had it towed to the dealer.

They diagnosed what I thought it was, body control module. The BCM happens to be integral to the interior fuse box in the 2015 Escape. No bolts, easy to remove/swap, but since the keyless entry is on it you have to have Ford program it so I had them do it, and should it quit again, it's their work.

~$675 and I"m back on the road. Hope this proves to be the real problem and nothing else is suspect. Dealer says it's not common, but they see 2-3 a year.

Thought I'd share, just in case anybody experiences the same thing.

Next up, the parking brake cable! It's in the garage awaiting time for me to replace it.
 

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2014 Ford Escape Titanium, 2.0L, Sync 2 MFT
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Well, last week it got interesting. I bought groceries, and returned to the 2015 Escape (Titanium 1.6l). Started up, but would not disengage from Park. While looking up how to override the interlock, it stalled with a Starting System Fault. Pushbutton would not shut it off, everything else seemed ok. So, being an IT guy, I thought I'd 'turn it off and turn it back on again', so I got out and hit the lock, and it locked up and shut down. Went in the store and got a wrench so I could disconnect the battery. I didn't have the presence of mind to try to read codes before I locked it.

Battery disconnect did nothing, still dead to the start/stop button. I knew the BMS was unlikely to be a problem as I'd replaced the battery not long ago and there was no corrosion present.

Read that the battery needs to be off ~40 mins to bleed residual energy out, so I did that. Still no response from start/stop so I went home and read up on fuses related. My plan was to check all related to the systems required, which are in all three fuse boxes. When I returned the next day, I hit the remote start and it fired right up. Locked up my bike, and got in to try to take it home. I made it less than a half mile, but managed to get off the road safely. Read the trouble codes before shutting it down by locking, all pointed to fuel pump control module, so I ordered one.

Put the fuel pump module in the next day, easy enough, it's under the carpet on the passenger rear seat side. Got in, no response from start/stop button. Removed the battery cable for 40-50 minutes, and reconnected. Started right up! Checked response to revs, worked as it should, ran for 15 minutes or so. Shut down to erase the DTCs, and started back up. Looked good so I had a friend meet me at my house and took the motorcycle home. When we returned, nothing. Called the insurance company and had it towed to the dealer.

They diagnosed what I thought it was, body control module. The BCM happens to be integral to the interior fuse box in the 2015 Escape. No bolts, easy to remove/swap, but since the keyless entry is on it you have to have Ford program it so I had them do it, and should it quit again, it's their work.

~$675 and I"m back on the road. Hope this proves to be the real problem and nothing else is suspect. Dealer says it's not common, but they see 2-3 a year.

Thought I'd share, just in case anybody experiences the same thing.

Next up, the parking brake cable! It's in the garage awaiting time for me to replace it.
Merged your thread with this existing thread on the same topic.
 

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Well, last week it got interesting. I bought groceries, and returned to the 2015 Escape (Titanium 1.6l). Started up, but would not disengage from Park. While looking up how to override the interlock, it stalled with a Starting System Fault. Pushbutton would not shut it off, everything else seemed ok. So, being an IT guy, I thought I'd 'turn it off and turn it back on again', so I got out and hit the lock, and it locked up and shut down. Went in the store and got a wrench so I could disconnect the battery. I didn't have the presence of mind to try to read codes before I locked it.

Battery disconnect did nothing, still dead to the start/stop button. I knew the BMS was unlikely to be a problem as I'd replaced the battery not long ago and there was no corrosion present.

Read that the battery needs to be off ~40 mins to bleed residual energy out, so I did that. Still no response from start/stop so I went home and read up on fuses related. My plan was to check all related to the systems required, which are in all three fuse boxes. When I returned the next day, I hit the remote start and it fired right up. Locked up my bike, and got in to try to take it home. I made it less than a half mile, but managed to get off the road safely. Read the trouble codes before shutting it down by locking, all pointed to fuel pump control module, so I ordered one.

Put the fuel pump module in the next day, easy enough, it's under the carpet on the passenger rear seat side. Got in, no response from start/stop button. Removed the battery cable for 40-50 minutes, and reconnected. Started right up! Checked response to revs, worked as it should, ran for 15 minutes or so. Shut down to erase the DTCs, and started back up. Looked good so I had a friend meet me at my house and took the motorcycle home. When we returned, nothing. Called the insurance company and had it towed to the dealer.

They diagnosed what I thought it was, body control module. The BCM happens to be integral to the interior fuse box in the 2015 Escape. No bolts, easy to remove/swap, but since the keyless entry is on it you have to have Ford program it so I had them do it, and should it quit again, it's their work.

~$675 and I"m back on the road. Hope this proves to be the real problem and nothing else is suspect. Dealer says it's not common, but they see 2-3 a year.

Thought I'd share, just in case anybody experiences the same thing.

Next up, the parking brake cable! It's in the garage awaiting time for me to replace it.
What dealership did you take this to? I'm having the same problem and I want to see if I can have my dealership call them.
 

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Well you can add me to the growing list of people who have had issues with the BCM in their Ford Escape. My 2014 FE Titanium is at 98,000 miles. Last week I was running errands when I got the same “Starting System Fault” message that at @gooberwiper saw. Numerous attempts to start it were unsuccessful, although the gauges all illuminated and I was able to put the windows down. I reached under the hood as well as I could and it felt like the negative terminal was solid. The ground also looked good.

I ended up calling Roadside Assistance through my insurance company and waited about 90 minutes for the tow truck to arrive. The tow driver got in to check the mileage and the car started right up without any errors! He offered to still tow it for me since Progressive was paying so I had him take it to my house instead of the dealer as we had planned. He backed it off the truck and left it idling for me as he left. I backed it into my driveway and wouldn’t you know it - it wouldn’t turn off. Just like @gooberwiper, hitting the keyfob “lock” button turned off the engine. I then checked the codes and also got two codes pointing to the fuel pump module: P025A and U0109 (this all happened before I saw @gooberwiper’s post)

A couple days later I attempted to drive it for the first time so I could take it to the dealer and it started right up again. I drove it all the way there without any issues. The diagnosis was pretty quick: failing BCM. Unfortunately, my total cost is slightly north of $1300. Before approving the work I did call my independent mechanic (whom I trust implicitly), who said the diagnosis sounded right and that the price quoted sounded about right, too.
 
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Update: Picked up my FE this evening with the new BCM installed. Drove home and parked in the driveway. An hour later I went out to run an errand and the car wouldn’t start. Pressed the On/Off button and no response, although the lights do turn on when you open the doors. Tried jumping it and still nothing.

Well you can add me to the growing list of people who have had issues with the BCM in their Ford Escape. My 2014 FE Titanium is at 98,000 miles. Last week I was running errands when I got the same “Starting System Fault” message that at @gooberwiper saw. Numerous attempts to start it were unsuccessful, although the gauges all illuminated and I was able to put the windows down. I reached under the hood as well as I could and it felt like the negative terminal was solid. The ground also looked good.

I ended up calling Roadside Assistance through my insurance company and waited about 90 minutes for the tow truck to arrive. The tow driver got in to check the mileage and the car started right up without any errors! He offered to still tow it for me since Progressive was paying so I had him take it to my house instead of the dealer as we had planned. He backed it off the truck and left it idling for me as he left. I backed it into my driveway and wouldn’t you know it - it wouldn’t turn off. Just like @gooberwiper, hitting the keyfob “lock” button turned off the engine. I then checked the codes and also got two codes pointing to the fuel pump module: P025A and U0109 (this all happened before I saw @gooberwiper’s post)

A couple days later I attempted to drive it for the first time so I could take it to the dealer and it started right up again. I drove it all the way there without any issues. The diagnosis was pretty quick: failing BCM. Unfortunately, my total cost is slightly north of $1300. Before approving the work I did call my independent mechanic (whom I trust implicitly), who said the diagnosis sounded right and that the price quoted sounded about right, too.
 

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Update: Picked up my FE this evening with the new BCM installed. Drove home and parked in the driveway. An hour later I went out to run an errand and the car wouldn’t start. Pressed the On/Off button and no response, although the lights do turn on when you open the doors. Tried jumping it and still nothing.
That sucks. Have you contacted the dealer that did the BCM replacement yet?

(Personally, I avoid jump starting any modern vehicle. There are so many electronic systems that may not like the associated voltage and current spikes.)
 
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