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Discussion Starter #21
I replaced the spark plugs this week just to eliminate one possible problem for the rough idle. The old ones didn't look bad, the gaps ranged from 0.030 to 0.032 from left to right. Maybe the facts that cylinder 4 had the largest spark plug gap and the largest carbon deposit on the intake valve are related.
Attached some pictures of the pistons inside. They have a strange tongue shape in the middle. The endoscope has a very narrow field of view so I couldn't get the whole piston. The bottom part is toward the intake, upper part toward the exhaust.

Anyway, for my car it looks like it has a transmission problem. Two days ago it stalled again when coming to a stop. It seems that the transmission sometimes cannot shift to N and stalls the engine. No check engine light though, which makes me question the car software. Today it did some grinding noise while shifting in reverse. So I'll let the dealership handle this problem further.
 

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Have you checked for any codes? There are faults that can be logged but do not cause the dash light to illuminate.
 

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Direct injection means carbon buildup.No fuel gets to flow over the valve stem or back.This is a problem with other manufactures as well.I think there are some cleaners you can run through the air intake,as air is the only thing to touch the back of the valves
 

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Direct injection means carbon buildup.No fuel gets to flow over the valve stem or back.This is a problem with other manufactures as well.I think there are some cleaners you can run through the air intake,as air is the only thing to touch the back of the valves
Uh, that's great info, but this has already been talked about. Running cleaners through the intake is not recommended. But go for it. IMHO that method is just a snake oil solution. The only way that method would work is if you are diligent and do it every 10,000 miles or so from the start. And if you do that your reducing the life of your turbo. No thanks.

The best way is to just wait until it's a problem and clean them by hand or blast them. The intake is easy to take off versus a BMW, Audi, etc.

I've got 100,000 miles and my valves are dirty and she runs just fine.
 

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I replaced the spark plugs this week just to eliminate one possible problem for the rough idle. The old ones didn't look bad, the gaps ranged from 0.030 to 0.032 from left to right. Maybe the facts that cylinder 4 had the largest spark plug gap and the largest carbon deposit on the intake valve are related.
Attached some pictures of the pistons inside. They have a strange tongue shape in the middle. The endoscope has a very narrow field of view so I couldn't get the whole piston. The bottom part is toward the intake, upper part toward the exhaust.

Anyway, for my car it looks like it has a transmission problem. Two days ago it stalled again when coming to a stop. It seems that the transmission sometimes cannot shift to N and stalls the engine. No check engine light though, which makes me question the car software. Today it did some grinding noise while shifting in reverse. So I'll let the dealership handle this problem further.
that shape of cleanliness on the piston is most likely due to the bowl in the piston to control flame propagation. The injector sprays into that bowl and by doing so cleans that area of the piston. But by the time the mist reaches the outer area of the piston it has already ignited. Di is amazing to me because the fuel timing as well as ignition timing can be adjusted to control knock. You did a great job of cleaning the valves though. I just did it this past weekend on mine and they didn't looks as good as yours.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Took me many hours to clean those valves. I would recommend going with the walnut shell blasting. I saw on youtube someone complaining that it took 4 hours to clean the valves with the walnut shells. But it took me 3-4 hours per cylinder with the basic method of scraping with long tools and sanding with scotch brite.

Q: how long does it take for you to make an appointment for Ford dealership? For me it always takes at least 2 weeks, usually 3-4 weeks. I almost envy my wife's Toyota, she made the appointment in an afternoon for next day morning. And that dealership is more busy than the Ford one.
So now while waiting for the service appointment, I keep driving the car to try to understand its problem(s). Sometimes looks like the torque converter is bad, or the transmission, or the Evap purge, or the Pcv, or the throttle body, or the breather tube, or electrical connectors, or wiring. Or maybe all of them.
Is there a Ford engineer on this forum? I do data logging on the car, and some things don't make sense. For example today the engine stalled again at idle, speed 0mph, but the intake manifold pressure shows boost! And the boost doesn't rev the engine up, it actually chokes it. Where is that boost coming from? The pressure sensor is relatively new, few months old.

Engine coolant temp also doesn't make sense, jumping from 152 to 190 in 1 second.
 

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Took me many hours to clean those valves. I would recommend going with the walnut shell blasting. .....
It'd be nice if someone offered an adaptor to fit the 2.0EB similar to this one for BMW's. Anyone run across such for our engines?

I'd bet that using an adaptor like that, with a hole for the blasting-wand and a connection for a shop-vac to capture the media/debris makes the whole DIY undertaking much much more efficient, effective and easy.

Hmmm, given only $45+shipping for a 2.0 plastic intake with gasket (likely even less as a used item) I might have to look at buying that and doing a bit of hacking to fabricate such an adaptor if ever faced with cleaning the valves .... still likely less expensive than dealer/commercial service (but then I already have a compressor, media-pot / basic blasting rig; even if one doesn't have the blasting rig, they can be got cheap through sources like Harbor Freight, and walnut shell media is cheap).

Sometimes spending a few dollars and hours making a tool is more than offset by how it helps with the project.

;)
 

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I did end up buying the BMW adapter tool. When I get a chance I will remove my intake and dimension/trace the intake port. Then simply modify the port flange on the tool to work with my 2.0. Stay tuned for a fall tutorial.
 

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I also heard that if you run the engine hard a few times a week, hard acceleration from time to time it should help with this build up? I know when i drive my wifes 2013 2.0 and get on it it will puff quite a bit grey smoke out the pipes. Just seems like a lot of maintenance to do on a $30k car with relatively low miles by today's standards.
 

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This is a common problem on this motor. The best way to fix it is adding a proper oil catch can. My Focus st has to be emptied every 3k. The only way to stop it is adding a second fuel injection rail to clean the valves; or beat the crap out of it so that heats off; or walnut blasting. Never add seafoam. It is pointless and if things do break off it can harm the turbo.
 

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What about the fuel system service at your local dealer, will this solve the carbon buildup on the 2.0? I have 75000 on my 2013 and sometimes I get a slight rough idle stopped at a light, should I be worried. BTW, I use regular unleaded, am I supposed to use 93 octane even if I'm not towing, just regular driving. Thanks in advance.
 

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What about the fuel system service at your local dealer, will this solve the carbon buildup on the 2.0? I have 75000 on my 2013 and sometimes I get a slight rough idle stopped at a light, should I be worried. BTW, I use regular unleaded, am I supposed to use 93 octane even if I'm not towing, just regular driving. Thanks in advance.
Mine was having the same symptoms. Ended up being my purge valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
My original trouble with the rough idle and stalling was actually an electrical problem. Same as recall 14S17.
The dealer service fixed the wire connection 2 years ago. This year 2019 the rough idle and stalling came back so I redid the wire connection myself. But I forgot to disconnect the battery, so I fried the computer. Now with a new computer ($1400) and fixed wire connection ($5) the car drives like new.
The wire connection has 6 wires into a small butt connector. Too many 18 gauge wires into that connector, it doesn't crimp right, and I guess vibration and heat/cold cycles makes it loose and build resistance. The wires are the signal ground for MAP sensor and temp sensor and others. That's why the engine was accelerating by itself or stalling. The computer was confused with the MAP sensor readings.


To answer the question about the oil catch can: I had it for a year, it did help some, but the hoses were smelling like burned oil plus gas. I had to drive with the windows open. So I removed it and rely on valve cleaning.
 

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My original trouble with the rough idle and stalling was actually an electrical problem. Same as recall 14S17.
The dealer service fixed the wire connection 2 years ago. This year 2019 the rough idle and stalling came back so I redid the wire connection myself. But I forgot to disconnect the battery, so I fried the computer. Now with a new computer ($1400) and fixed wire connection ($5) the car drives like new.
The wire connection has 6 wires into a small butt connector. Too many 18 gauge wires into that connector, it doesn't crimp right, and I guess vibration and heat/cold cycles makes it loose and build resistance. The wires are the signal ground for MAP sensor and temp sensor and others. That's why the engine was accelerating by itself or stalling. The computer was confused with the MAP sensor readings.


To answer the question about the oil catch can: I had it for a year, it did help some, but the hoses were smelling like burned oil plus gas. I had to drive with the windows open. So I removed it and rely on valve cleaning.
Great write up. Just happened to read the whole thread and here you post an update! I was thinking it had to be a sensor issue. Hard to see how boost value and temp could jump thst quickly. Did not think of a bad splice! Good god that harness.

Thanks for the info. Impressive determination and follow through with this job. You really went into the salt mines with that valve cleaning! I know the feeling of endless hours on simple tasks.

Did you get the computer at the dealer? Which part was it exactly?
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Went to a Ford specialized mechanic to change and reprogram it. Don't know the part number. I wanted to take the old computer to look at the motherboard, but he had to return it as a core.
 
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