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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello i have a 2013 escape sel and every day battery is needing charge dealer says nothing wrong with car or battery
Im ready to stand outside on sidewalk with a sign! 4 times into dealer to be told nothing wrong
Try completing chemo for 5 hours and getting stuck
Something is draining batter and everything has been turned off drive enough as thats what i was told prior as well
This is unbelievable ford not helping me or anyone else ive seen in forums
Im noe to you for help
 

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Hello i have a 2013 escape sel and every day battery is needing charge dealer says nothing wrong with car or battery
Im ready to stand outside on sidewalk with a sign! 4 times into dealer to be told nothing wrong
Try completing chemo for 5 hours and getting stuck
Something is draining batter and everything has been turned off drive enough as thats what i was told prior as well
This is unbelievable ford not helping me or anyone else ive seen in forums
Im noe to you for help
Sorry for you issue. When was the battery last replaced? Have you read the very many threads on this board with the same issues? Most likely your battery needs replacing and BMS reset.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Battery was checked and replaced a year ago its one yr old
I had that discussion with ford they said pretty much not their issue and i dont drive enough
Well i have been driving enough and its still falling to 20 % power clearly theres a hidden issue they cant even figure out
why if i need bms reset is it ford service wouldnt do it?
That makes no sense so here i am stuck again and will call service monday and ask. They claim all fuses are good and i don’t remember anything about bms…its interesting ford wont even take it back at this point they just check battery and i told them of course its going to be charged !
 

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I suggest having someone check the electrical charging system (via Body Control Module) and view the following data while the engine is running:

Battery Age - Days in service
Battery Current
State of Charge
Battery Charging Voltage Desired
Battery Voltage
Battery Regenerative Charge State

I use the FORScan tool to do this.
 

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2017 Escape Titanium 2.0l Ecoboost
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For the first four years of my Escape's life I had many signs and symptoms of a bum battery. Whenever I took it in to Ford for service, I'd mention I thought I had a bad battery. They would test it and say it was fine.

At 4 years the car wouldn't start. Had the battery replaced and all of the issues I thought were related to a bad battery are gone now.

I would suggest you have someone install a new battery and reset the BMS. If you've still got a problem after that, take to it a known good mechanic. The dealer you've been seeing clearly isn't adequately looking into the problem...
 

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Battery was checked and replaced a year ago its one yr old
I had that discussion with ford they said pretty much not their issue and i dont drive enough
Well i have been driving enough and its still falling to 20 % power clearly theres a hidden issue they cant even figure out
why if i need bms reset is it ford service wouldnt do it?
That makes no sense so here i am stuck again and will call service monday and ask. They claim all fuses are good and i don’t remember anything about bms…its interesting ford wont even take it back at this point they just check battery and i told them of course its going to be charged !
I have had my ford dealer forget. Caught them before I left dealer using my Carista and my reader specifically for “days in service”. Also good idea to read the very many posts already on this topic.
 

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Battery was checked and replaced a year ago its one yr old
I had that discussion with ford they said pretty much not their issue and i dont drive enough
Well i have been driving enough and its still falling to 20 % power clearly theres a hidden issue they cant even figure out
why if i need bms reset is it ford service wouldnt do it?
That makes no sense so here i am stuck again and will call service monday and ask. They claim all fuses are good and i don’t remember anything about bms…its interesting ford wont even take it back at this point they just check battery and i told them of course its going to be charged !
Do you have anything permanently plugged into the 12v port such as a dashcam or phone?
I am sorry if I appear to be stating the obvious but just trying to check every possibility. :) .
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited by Moderator)
I
I suggest having someone check the electrical charging system (via Body Control Module) and view the following data while the engine is running:

Battery Age - Days in service
Battery Current
State of Charge
Battery Charging Voltage Desired
Battery Voltage
Battery Regenerative Charge State

I use the FORScan tool to do this.
Do you have anything permanently plugged into the 12v port such as a dashcam or phone?
I am sorry if I appear to be stating the obvious but just trying to check every possibility. :) .
no problem at all
I have nothing plugged in or being used everything is off and even disconnected my phone completely

that was what the dealer said

so in tegards to the test above wouldnt that be something ford service would have done? Again understand this vehicle has been in multiple times and if i was to be honest ford seems to be stumped and from looking online this isn’t anything new

so i will ask but i tell ya having a patient out there with a sign and having called the on your side news media story here may be a way to get
Fords attention

well see i could be wrong but reposting blogs and folks storied to all on line avenues is also a good message to warn buyers

the sad thing is i baught two vehicles at the time i purchased this one and this is the nightmare again I believe ford knows and is not correcting

to leave people stranded and ford service to not even know or have a clue is surprising but as i said in the beginning i will let everyone know as its unfair to me and truely everyone out there

Today we have social media and local news is for….if i can fight cancer i can certainly fight this i cant afford another car

thanks for the suggestions well see how it goes
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Everything you all have asked was done 4 visits so far to ford dealership
Only thing is i didnt verify if they did the above test but i would assume ford mechanics and service with 4 visits would have
Ill ask however as im driving there tuesday after of course i get a jump…ridiculous
The phone the auto start the blue tooth the radio the everything is off however
 

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Everything you all have asked was done 4 visits so far to ford dealership
Only thing is i didnt verify if they did the above test but i would assume ford mechanics and service with 4 visits would have
Ill ask however as im driving there tuesday after of course i get a jump…ridiculous
The phone the auto start the blue tooth the radio the everything is off however
I suggest you copy the complete message #4 here and request that they check those items and also ask them to reset the BMS as well which they should be able to do if it hasn't already been done.
Also tell them the sort of distances you are travelling so as to discount their claim that you are not using the car enough to charge the battery.
 

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There are numerous modules that shut down at after a time when you shut the car off. Turning the car off does not turn off everything at once. I am totally surprised that the dealer didn't test the current draw with the car off and see if any of the modules are staying on. I don't care if you leave your phone or dash cam plugged in (I know you don't). This shouldn't cause a battery to die overnight. You need to find a competent mechanic who specializes in electronics and not go back to the dealership that obviously isn't even looking. The car is not under warrantee and there is no reason to go back to Ford.
 

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are you still under warranty? for the escape? or the battery?

i would leave the Ford dealer ship an find another mechanic. Someone who will test the battery (and get a warranty replacement battery if your 1 year old battery has failed) as well as check for parasitic drains.
 

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I meant to say take….gotta love spellcheck 😂
I know it is off subject but if you want to correct something on your post after it has been sent you can just click on the 3 vertical dots to the top right of your post and edit it anytime.. ;).
 

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I would have someone check the fuses in the BCM. I recently had an issue where the battery would drain and leave me stranded. After the third time bringing my 2013 in and it not starting at the dealership it was found to have a bad fuse in the BCM (body control module).
 

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1st off Cherie,
As a cancer survivor of Burkitts Lymphoma Stage 3, I feel your pain. I was 20 when i was diagnosed and next month I will be 20 years in remission. I wish you luck- stay strong!

Yesterday on my 2018 BONE STOCK Escape i pulled the battery to work on adding some wires for stereo and it was at 50% I don't even see that in the winter on my car when it sits for months.I put it on a battery charger at the lowest setting ( 2 amps) overnight as slow charging a battery is the most efficient way to have a longer duty cycle.

This car seems to have a higher than normal parasitic loss of battery, I don't drive mine much at all either as I have a mustang for the summer, but most cars after a week of sitting should still be at 80-90%.

FIRST AND FOREMOST- CHECK YOUR CONNECTION- There are wires going from the bottom of the batterys cover to the Alternator, and there is a ground wire that is on the drivers side strut tower. Make sure they are tight and there is no corrosion. That right there is the number one cause of battery problems.

If you verified everything is secure- and theres no signs of damage from mice or squirrels then suggest you get a better battery, honestly most batteries will test fine if you drive them to AutoZone or a dealer for a load test ( they test for high Loads like engine start) but its possible the cells are corroded and will test OK but running any accessories could drain faster than the alternator can charge it.

Batteries are made to last on average 2-4 years depending on how many times they are cycled and conditions like cold and load. After that they lose efficiency, they will charge quickly but wont hold a charge, then the maximum reserve power drops more and more as the plates inside begin to corrode. Cold weather and poor connections just make it worse..

Owning for one year sounds like you may have a warranty claim from the battery, almost every battery comes with at least a 1 year or 2 year warranty.. If you bought "the cheapest one" last year then sometimes you get what you pay for. If you bought the car and it came with that battery then replace it, the previous owners most likely lied. Everyone likes going the cheap route, but cheap will just get you by when it comes to battery build quality.

There IS a HUGE difference between a cheap $75.00 walmart /autozone battery and the $150 -5-6-7 year "Ultra Gold Version".
Get something with a 5 year warranty minimum, and as long as it fits, the more CCA Rating the better. Not all batteries are made the same. Im not going to say to go and shell out $300 for an OPTIMA battery, but if its cold where you live ( i live in Erie PA- it gets COLD here) then you should always opt for the middle or higher end model of battery that can fit.

If you are low on cash- there are small lithium jump starters under $30 that work great- I carry one everywhere i go.
I believe the core problem here is your battery or connection, the post #4 having them test those variables is also a GREAT IDEA.,

If you replace it with a new charged one and it still happens then i would look further into having an electronic tech look into a potential wiring issue. Carol mentioned the BCM had a bad connection so those things are possible, although rare. The battery in these cars is one of the WORST someone can change on their own. I just tape my battery receipt to the cover and every 2-3 yrs go to wal-mart and swap for a fresh one for free, no questions asked.

But for escape owners its a little more difficult, at least on my 2018 i have to remove my airbox or wipers to get to it. its a nightmare and dont recommend you DIY unless you are experienced.

Best of luck to you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
1st off Cherie,
As a cancer survivor of Burkitts Lymphoma Stage 3, I feel your pain. I was 20 when i was diagnosed and next month I will be 20 years in remission. I wish you luck- stay strong!

Yesterday on my 2018 BONE STOCK Escape i pulled the battery to work on adding some wires for stereo and it was at 50% I don't even see that in the winter on my car when it sits for months.I put it on a battery charger at the lowest setting ( 2 amps) overnight as slow charging a battery is the most efficient way to have a longer duty cycle.

This car seems to have a higher than normal parasitic loss of battery, I don't drive mine much at all either as I have a mustang for the summer, but most cars after a week of sitting should still be at 80-90%.

FIRST AND FOREMOST- CHECK YOUR CONNECTION- There are wires going from the bottom of the batterys cover to the Alternator, and there is a ground wire that is on the drivers side strut tower. Make sure they are tight and there is no corrosion. That right there is the number one cause of battery problems.

If you verified everything is secure- and theres no signs of damage from mice or squirrels then suggest you get a better battery, honestly most batteries will test fine if you drive them to AutoZone or a dealer for a load test ( they test for high Loads like engine start) but its possible the cells are corroded and will test OK but running any accessories could drain faster than the alternator can charge it.

Batteries are made to last on average 2-4 years depending on how many times they are cycled and conditions like cold and load. After that they lose efficiency, they will charge quickly but wont hold a charge, then the maximum reserve power drops more and more as the plates inside begin to corrode. Cold weather and poor connections just make it worse..

Owning for one year sounds like you may have a warranty claim from the battery, almost every battery comes with at least a 1 year or 2 year warranty.. If you bought "the cheapest one" last year then sometimes you get what you pay for. If you bought the car and it came with that battery then replace it, the previous owners most likely lied. Everyone likes going the cheap route, but cheap will just get you by when it comes to battery build quality.

There IS a HUGE difference between a cheap $75.00 walmart /autozone battery and the $150 -5-6-7 year "Ultra Gold Version".
Get something with a 5 year warranty minimum, and as long as it fits, the more CCA Rating the better. Not all batteries are made the same. Im not going to say to go and shell out $300 for an OPTIMA battery, but if its cold where you live ( i live in Erie PA- it gets COLD here) then you should always opt for the middle or higher end model of battery that can fit.

If you are low on cash- there are small lithium jump starters under $30 that work great- I carry one everywhere i go.
I believe the core problem here is your battery or connection, the post #4 having them test those variables is also a GREAT IDEA.,

If you replace it with a new charged one and it still happens then i would look further into having an electronic tech look into a potential wiring issue. Carol mentioned the BCM had a bad connection so those things are possible, although rare. The battery in these cars is one of the WORST someone can change on their own. I just tape my battery receipt to the cover and every 2-3 yrs go to wal-mart and swap for a fresh one for free, no questions asked.

But for escape owners its a little more difficult, at least on my 2018 i have to remove my airbox or wipers to get to it. its a nightmare and dont recommend you DIY unless you are experienced.

Best of luck to you!
1st off Cherie,
As a cancer survivor of Burkitts Lymphoma Stage 3, I feel your pain. I was 20 when i was diagnosed and next month I will be 20 years in remission. I wish you luck- stay strong!

Yesterday on my 2018 BONE STOCK Escape i pulled the battery to work on adding some wires for stereo and it was at 50% I don't even see that in the winter on my car when it sits for months.I put it on a battery charger at the lowest setting ( 2 amps) overnight as slow charging a battery is the most efficient way to have a longer duty cycle.

This car seems to have a higher than normal parasitic loss of battery, I don't drive mine much at all either as I have a mustang for the summer, but most cars after a week of sitting should still be at 80-90%.

FIRST AND FOREMOST- CHECK YOUR CONNECTION- There are wires going from the bottom of the batterys cover to the Alternator, and there is a ground wire that is on the drivers side strut tower. Make sure they are tight and there is no corrosion. That right there is the number one cause of battery problems.

If you verified everything is secure- and theres no signs of damage from mice or squirrels then suggest you get a better battery, honestly most batteries will test fine if you drive them to AutoZone or a dealer for a load test ( they test for high Loads like engine start) but its possible the cells are corroded and will test OK but running any accessories could drain faster than the alternator can charge it.

Batteries are made to last on average 2-4 years depending on how many times they are cycled and conditions like cold and load. After that they lose efficiency, they will charge quickly but wont hold a charge, then the maximum reserve power drops more and more as the plates inside begin to corrode. Cold weather and poor connections just make it worse..

Owning for one year sounds like you may have a warranty claim from the battery, almost every battery comes with at least a 1 year or 2 year warranty.. If you bought "the cheapest one" last year then sometimes you get what you pay for. If you bought the car and it came with that battery then replace it, the previous owners most likely lied. Everyone likes going the cheap route, but cheap will just get you by when it comes to battery build quality.

There IS a HUGE difference between a cheap $75.00 walmart /autozone battery and the $150 -5-6-7 year "Ultra Gold Version".
Get something with a 5 year warranty minimum, and as long as it fits, the more CCA Rating the better. Not all batteries are made the same. Im not going to say to go and shell out $300 for an OPTIMA battery, but if its cold where you live ( i live in Erie PA- it gets COLD here) then you should always opt for the middle or higher end model of battery that can fit.

If you are low on cash- there are small lithium jump starters under $30 that work great- I carry one everywhere i go.
I believe the core problem here is your battery or connection, the post #4 having them test those variables is also a GREAT IDEA.,

If you replace it with a new charged one and it still happens then i would look further into having an electronic tech look into a potential wiring issue. Carol mentioned the BCM had a bad connection so those things are possible, although rare. The battery in these cars is one of the WORST someone can change on their own. I just tape my battery receipt to the cover and every 2-3 yrs go to wal-mart and swap for a fresh one for free, no questions asked.

But for escape owners its a little more difficult, at least on my 2018 i have to remove my airbox or wipers to get to it. its a nightmare and dont recommend you DIY unless you are experienced.

Best of luck to you!
thank you as a cancer patient for the 6th time …i have hope and realize how blessed i am
I called ford and discussed everything posted and they replaced the battery after a fight
It failed all tests and set the bms i think thats right LOL
Ford has a problem with these escapes i have no doubt and trust me i will get it in with any problems
The more folks that report issues the better the vehicle with become
Until ford fixed and admits im not interested in another ford and i baught two cars at one time…their loss as what they dont know if i purchased several on top of it for a work fleet
Anyway thank you all again
As always I appreciate folks taking the time to help
 

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2016 Kuga Titanium 2.0l EcoBoost
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dealer says nothing wrong with car or battery
If it's anything like my dealer, their testing methods are dubious at best.

My original battery was tested by them 2 weeks ago and was only down 10 CCA from the new spec. I find it very hard to believe that given it's over 5yo! I don't have any battery issues but that would certainly be the first thing I would be changing if anything electrical starts misbehaving.
 

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A full battery test takes a little over an hour by Ford, it sounds they are only doing a quick test. In my F350, I run a 850 CCA Battery when standard is a 650. I had a new 850 ( with 6 yr warranty ) from Ford and within a year, my truck wasn't starting in the mornings. I had it tested a couple times at Ford and they said it was fine. It continued it's ritual in not starting so back to Ford I went. The Service Manager said I could have a full test done which would take 60-90 minutes. If the battery was bad, they would replace it under warranty, if it was good I had to pay for the test. It had 1 bad cell, I got a new battery. So ya, you can buy a good battery and they still can go bad. If you don't like one dealer, try a different one.
 
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