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Been following this thread and have my OBDII > USB on order. But after my 2nd jump in a week, I need to get the battery now. How bad will it be to run the new battery on the old battery settings for a few days until I can run the BMS reset on FORScan?
 

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Been following this thread and have my OBDII > USB on order. But after my 2nd jump in a week, I need to get the battery now. How bad will it be to run the new battery on the old battery settings for a few days until I can run the BMS reset on FORScan?
It isn't likely to make any difference at all IMHO. I think of the BMS as a system designed for long-term battery life that probably doesn't make any difference at all in the short-term. The majority of battery replacements occur without any knowledge that this system is supposed to be replaced.
 

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It isn't likely to make any difference at all IMHO. I think of the BMS as a system designed for long-term battery life that probably doesn't make any difference at all in the short-term. The majority of battery replacements occur without any knowledge that this system is supposed to be replaced.
Concur with short term but suggest you get it reset ASAP. My layman's understanding is that left un-reset, the charging system handles the charging function like it is an OLD battery. I believe you will find an occasional post here where some owners have reported difficulties.
 

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I just wanted to take a moment to express my gratitude to everyone who has posted their knowledge and experiences on this thread. On principle alone (with a healthy dose of stubbornness), I was not about to spend $300 to buy and replace my battery at a local shop or dealer. After reviewing Youtube and this thread, I not only replaced the battery (via removing the wipers and cowl), but I also purchased the right OBDII connector, downloaded and geeked out on FORScan, performed the BMS reset, and recalibrated my wipers. Might seem simple to some of you folks, but this girl is pretty proud of herself. Couldn't have done it without all of you. THANK YOU!!!

P.S. Would have posted links for others to reference, but I don't have a high enough post count yet apparently. That'll change, I have questions regarding some codes the DTC threw out. But that's for another post.
 

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Discussion Starter #125
..... I have questions regarding some codes the DTC threw out. But that's for another post.
Just FYI it's not uncommon to see a batch of odd DTC's after completing an operation with FORScan - just clear 'em as your last step before exiting FORScan and all should be good with no recurrence (unless they're 'bona fide').

Congrats on your DIY success!

:)
 

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Kicking the can down the road

At the end of the day, I like my wife's 2014 base 2.5L Escape. We tow with it occasionally and it does very well every day. That being said, I pull the battery every January, check the fluid level, check the specific gravity of each cell, and perform a load test just to see how it is holding up. Yes, I know that it is a bitch to get to the battery. I can get it out in about 10 minutes now doing the air filter method.

I know that we're going to sell the Escape in about 3 more years. Fingers crossed that our current battery does well during next month's "gauntlet" of tests I am going to perform on it. If I put in a new battery in the next year or so, then that leaves about 2 years of time on the truck until we sell it. I will pay for a standard wet cell battery at Napa, install it myself and be on my way. If I were going to keep the car, I would have Ford install a Motorcraft battery and execute the reset... one stop shop.

So I guess it depends on what you believe will happen if you do or don't do the reset. This thread has been excellent with tremendous input. It's stuff like this thread that keeps me geeking out on DIY for my cars despite the fact that modern technology seems to make it more of a challenge with each new model. Keep fighting to DIY guys (and gals!)... maybe someday the suits at Ford will revert back to "basics" which may have a lasting impact on their overall sales numbers as word gets out that you can actually DIY on a FORD... like the old days. :nerd:
 

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So to properly reset the BMS

i need this. amazon.com/dp/B01F0GVBWY?tag=vs-auto-convert-amazon-20

and download FORscan.

anything else im missing.
 

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Update

Well, I had the dealer install a battery in July 2016. The dealer DID NOT do the re set. The Winter has been quite cold here in Southern Ontario and my battery died. Went to the dealer and they replaced it under Warranty.

Now I am wondering if not doing the reset had anything to do with the short life or I just got a bad battery.

Hmmmmmm...........

Vin
 

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So to properly reset the BMS

i need this. amazon.com/dp/B01F0GVBWY?tag=vs-auto-convert-amazon-20

and download FORscan.

anything else im missing.
And of course you will need to join the Forum at forscan.org and use the license tool. From within Forscan, on the computer you will be using to do the reset, you will generate a key and enter that key at the Forscan website. You will then be emailed a free license good for a couple of months or so.

They don't offer paid long-term licenses, so if you use it a lot to play as I do you'll need to periodically renew. If you're just doing this one thing it will be a one-shot deal.

Without the license, you can't do the service procedures.
 

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If I purchase a replacement battery from an independent dealer that gives a certain number months of free placement and they are not able to do the reset, will I still be able to get a replacement from them if it dies within their free replacement period?
 

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If I purchase a replacement battery from an independent dealer that gives a certain number months of free placement and they are not able to do the reset, will I still be able to get a replacement from them if it dies within their free replacement period?
I can't imagine that they have any access whatsoever to the system to determine that. However, for your own convenience, it's a good practice to reset it as you don't need an unpredictable failure.

That said, you're unlikely to have a major problem. However, particularly with AGM batteries, I highly recommend doing what's necessary to optimize the charging system.
 

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If I purchase a replacement battery from an independent dealer that gives a certain number months of free placement and they are not able to do the reset, will I still be able to get a replacement from them if it dies within their free replacement period?
Yep, battery warranty periods are about time in service, and nothing more. I have a tough time believing that failing to reset the BMS will have a meaningful impact on the life of a battery, but it's probably a good idea. The Escape is certainly not the only vehicle out there with a BMS, I'm fairly sure other makes use this kind of tech as well. If it were a big issue it would be common knowledge, especially among dealership service departments.
 

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And of course you will need to join the Forum at forscan.org and use the license tool. From within Forscan, on the computer you will be using to do the reset, you will generate a key and enter that key at the Forscan website. You will then be emailed a free license good for a couple of months or so.

They don't offer paid long-term licenses, so if you use it a lot to play as I do you'll need to periodically renew. If you're just doing this one thing it will be a one-shot deal.

Without the license, you can't do the service procedures.
Some procedures using ForScan can be done without the licence. eg. I did the wiper alignment last week with the non licensed version. I didn't check if the BMS reset was available.
 

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Some procedures using ForScan can be done without the licence. eg. I did the wiper alignment last week with the non licensed version. I didn't check if the BMS reset was available.
Cool. Did not know that. I thought all the service procedures required the license. Then again, most of the service procedure use I did was keeping the clutches of the DCT in my 2014 Focus working properly, lol. For that the license was required.

I'll have to have a look and see what's in the open sometime, thanks.
 

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It really does matter... Just swapped the battery on my 2013 escape when it started dying overnight, and afterwards I kept getting the battery saver message while on accessory mode after a minute or so. Once I reset the BMS this problem completely went away, and it's also starting up faster when I leave it sitting over the weekend (even with my dashcam running all weekend).
 

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It really does matter... Just swapped the battery on my 2013 escape when it started dying overnight, and afterwards I kept getting the battery saver message while on accessory mode after a minute or so. Once I reset the BMS this problem completely went away, and it's also starting up faster when I leave it sitting over the weekend (even with my dashcam running all weekend).
Very interesting. I'd expect the low battery shutoff because it doesn't properly infer the battery's state of charge. The faster starting doesn't make sense, though...there's no sort of current regulation to the starter motor. The circuit is either complete or it isn't, which is switched by the starter solenoid.
 

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My battery died this morning. I will be doing this when my new ELM gets here. Joy.

But thank you for the write-up

Edit: After reading through all 14 pages of this thread what I have come to realize is that few people actually understand what the BLM does.

There are PIDs to view the Battery age. The computer will run the alternator duty cycle differently based on the age, keeping the battery charge % (also a PID you can view) to opitmize the life of the battery as well as decrease load on the engine to increase fuel economy. Both my '15 1.0L Focus and my '13 2.0L Escape have these systems and I have been watching the charge percentage for a while. Both batteries (until today) were the original batteries. How that affects the charging system is as follows:

In my escape (which obviously has a dead battery now) the charge percentage was always really really low. But the charge would shoot up quickly after initial warm up. I had to get a jump a few weekends ago because we were in and out of the car many times throughout the night. When we got jumped the charge was 8%, 20 minutes later we were charged to 52%. By the time we got home (an hour or so later) we were topped out at 56%.

In my focus I drive 3 miles to work. 88% of my driving is done with the engine cold. So my charge % will dip down in the 20s pretty often. The charging system won't run the alternator until exactly 20% and even then it will only usually get to around 50% before levelling off. Similar to the escape. But in the focus even long trips (200miles) the charge won't get over 60%.

The ideal charge for the battery is not 100% such as the case with Lithium Ion batteries. Fully charging an AGM or Lead acid is not ideal. The computer uses the BLM as well as charge percentage to base its charging rates. Obviously the battery has to have enough juice to crank, but outside of that the system is only charging the battery enough so that it doesn't degrade it's life.

In all the cars I have owned and worked on I have never had a battery go more than 3 years. Both my current Fords were up to 4 and 4.5 years. I'd say that adding a year to the life of the battery is pretty significant. On top of that the system is smart enough to turn off accessories to conserve enough charge to crank the engine when you need it.

Ford should have made the system as easy to reset as the oil life monitor. This doesn't make sense to me. But I don't think it is a ploy from Ford to get more service work.
 

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I have read through this thread several times, and I didn't see any mention the method of resetting the BMS via pushing the rear fog lamp switch and hazard flasher switch without using any computer, it works for Kuga in Taiwan, or is it because there is not rear fog lamp switch for the Escape in the US?
 

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Hey Turbo,, Are you making a funny on that fog and flasher switch thing, or is that for real??? If its for real , maybe the US models are too.. Front Fog and Flasher switches together....I wish.....
 

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I have read through this thread several times, and I didn't see any mention the method of resetting the BMS via pushing the rear fog lamp switch and hazard flasher switch without using any computer, it works for Kuga in Taiwan, or is it because there is not rear fog lamp switch for the Escape in the US?
That's probably because U.S. models don't have rear fog lights, hence no rear fog light switch. Interesting fact for those who live in places that do, though.
 
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