[Scootwarner]

New to the site. 2013 Ford Escape SE 1.6L, 85,000 miles. Second owner. First owner got into collision with only cosmetic damage.

I've had the vehicle for about 10 months. I've had it in the shop 2x in the past 2 weeks. First for an ABS/Trac control issue that was solved by replacing the rear wheel speed sensor. As soon as I got it home I got a low coolant alert. Took it in again to a 3rd party shop; they told me coolant was leaking into the engine and I would have to get the engine replaced. While they were running diagnostics, they said the battery died and it would also have to be replaced. Took it to a Ford dealership for a second opinion - they ran a pressure check and let it idle for 1+ hour and couldn't find any issues with the engine or the battery. $500+ later, the ABS and traction control are working as normal and I no longer have an alert for low coolant.

I let it sit for a couple days when I got it home and the battery died. I was able to jump it and drive for a few minutes to get it recharged a bit, so it seems to be good for now. In case I do end up needing to replace the battery, do I need to take it to the dealership or can I do it at home? I've seen the 2 different methods for getting access to the battery and I'm confident I can do that, but I'm not sure what actually needs to be done/what's doable at home for the BMS reset. Is that something only the dealer can reset or can I do it at home? I don't have forscan or any way of keeping a charge on it while I'm working.

Thanks.

 

[ralph7up]

New to the site. 2013 Ford Escape SE 1.6L, 85,000 miles. Second owner. First owner got into collision with only cosmetic damage.

I've had the vehicle for about 10 months. I've had it in the shop 2x in the past 2 weeks. First for an ABS/Trac control issue that was solved by replacing the rear wheel speed sensor. As soon as I got it home I got a low coolant alert. Took it in again to a 3rd party shop; they told me coolant was leaking into the engine and I would have to get the engine replaced. While they were running diagnostics, they said the battery died and it would also have to be replaced. Took it to a Ford dealership for a second opinion - they ran a pressure check and let it idle for 1+ hour and couldn't find any issues with the engine or the battery. $500+ later, the ABS and traction control are working as normal and I no longer have an alert for low coolant.

I let it sit for a couple days when I got it home and the battery died. I was able to jump it and drive for a few minutes to get it recharged a bit, so it seems to be good for now. In case I do end up needing to replace the battery, do I need to take it to the dealership or can I do it at home? I've seen the 2 different methods for getting access to the battery and I'm confident I can do that, but I'm not sure what actually needs to be done/what's doable at home for the BMS reset. Is that something only the dealer can reset or can I do it at home? I don't have forscan or any way of keeping a charge on it while I'm working.

Thanks.

Sound like you have at least glanced at some of the threads on the various topics. Short answer on th4e battery question about setting BMS yourself without Forscan or other is No. You may have alarger problem with the engine if your independent dealer is to be believed. Many threads on that issue as well. Was it in the recall group? If so, has the recall work been done? Has the vehicle been losing coolant?

 

[Scootwarner]

Sound like you have at least glanced at some of the threads on the various topics. Short answer on th4e battery question about setting BMS yourself without Forscan or other is No. You may have alarger problem with the engine if your independent dealer is to be believed. Many threads on that issue as well. Was it in the recall group? If so, has the recall work been done? Has the vehicle been losing coolant?

It was the same issue from the same plant just a different time frame, so it wasn't included in the recall group. I filed a complaint with the NHTSA and Ford but haven't heard anything back on that yet.

Haven't noticed it losing coolant, but I will continue to keep an eye on it. I asked the dealer if it could have been an electronics issue that tripped the low coolant warning, and they said no, but I don't know why two shops would've gotten different results from pressure tests.

 

[ralph7up]

It was the same issue from the same plant just a different time frame, so it wasn't included in the recall group. I filed a complaint with the NHTSA and Ford but haven't heard anything back on that yet.

Haven't noticed it losing coolant, but I will continue to keep an eye on it. I asked the dealer if it could have been an electronics issue that tripped the low coolant warning, and they said no, but I don't know why two shops would've gotten different results from pressure tests.

so you have had pressure tests done. By whom? What were results? Did the use same procedure? What was the procedure? You have some pretty complicated issues here. The more information you provide us the better we may be able to help.

 

[TBlack13SE]

This may be a dumb question, but when it was parked, was it on an incline? I recently had the low coolant light come on and found if I parked a set distance from my garage in my driveway, I was leaking out the overflow “valve.” In my experience, dealerships tend to jump on the expensive repairs, so if they were not indicating it needed a new engine, I doubt it did.