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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I found it! $13.59 Three different Ford Dealer Parts Counter men and a Parts Manager could not find this connector!!
"Motorcraft Wiring Pigtail Kits Identification Guide"
Finding this was like, finding a needle in a haystack! this connector is part of the engine wiring harness which costs over $800.00 plus lots of labor!!!!!!!!
"Sensor- Battery Current" This sensor/connector gives feedback to the BCM. It causes a lot of electrical problems when it is bad! Gremlins!! Wipers/navigation/low voltage/battery drain!!
Had excessive corrosion on the Negative battery post which you can't see, unless you remove the cowl! Replaced negative battery cable with sensor attached to it called "battery management system", Part number "AV6Z-10C679-M". the male connector to the sensor was also badly damaged and melted this is a 2 cavity male connector. Ford told me there was no available connector!!
After replacing the negative cable and new battery 590cca my charging system analyzer battery/alternator/ starting system said my battery needs to be recharged?? What!! Ford also said my BCM was bad? I don't believe so!! It is the battery management system that is causing the problems!! this part number has been revised 5 times!!
Here is the male connector part number for the battery sensor.

Part number

WPT-1396
DU2Z-14S411-AZA
 

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Discussion Starter #2
also took car to ford dealer to do a battery reset
I think everything will be fine now!
TBT to be determined??
 

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Discussion Starter #5
FYI

This battery current connector is used on all "Ford Products"
Not just the Escape
model years 2013 and up!
 

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Very good info guys. Who would think to check way back there. Will keep an eye on that area.

Just another thing to have to keep track of on this car with all its electronics to drive you crazy. Guess they couldn't make it a sealed assy to prevent this.
 

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You must remove the wiper arms and cowl to get at the negative cable on the Battery post!!
It must be tight!!
After replacing the bad battery current terminal Pigtail connector to the sensor, I drove about 30 miles.
connected my midtronics battery/alternator/starter analyzer!
new battery is now fully charged/ starter and alternator 100%
It is amazing what a loose battery cable can do to your car!!
Especially when you can't get to it or see it
FYI!!

I hope most or all of my electrical/Gremlins are now gone!!
This was the original Battery!
The Louisville Kentucky Assembly Plant caused this!!, by not properly torquing the negative battery cable!!
Have turned this over to NHTSA
This has caused major electrical issues!! and it is so simple!, but you can't get to negative cable because you have to remove parts to get to it !
The dealer never did a look see!!
They did everything on a computer! and never went to the most common source!! A loose Negative Battery cable!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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....The Louisville Kentucky Assembly Plant caused this **** up!!, by not properly torquing the negative battery cable.
Sir, you've reported on this forum that you bought your '13 Escape used with 38k miles on it. You may not prefer the method but it's well-established that the battery can be, and often is, fully-accessed by airbox removal from the front without pulling the wipers/cowl.

Though your battery may be original, do you have any way of assuredly knowing that no-one ever messed-around with/displaced your negative cable for whatever unknown reason during the 38k miles it was not in your possession? Not saying anyone did, but can you be 100% sure they didn't? Do you (un)realistically assume and accept zero-risk when you buy a used car?

Your episode reported here (only instance of the problem here, even though you used multiple threads to cover the one topic(?)) and the one you linked on Focus Forum (both followed with others reporting inspection of their batteries revealed no corrosion), as well as very limited hits when searching the interweb on the topic, simply don't support the notion that there is/was a systemic assembly problem of the sort that earns NHTSA follow-up action.

Some lessons learned, you've shared some good info for folks to follow-up on, but gee whiz, try keeping it in perspective.

(!!!!!)
 

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I always appreciate the follow through with part numbers !!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The easiest way to get to the battery is by removing wiper arms and cowl. it takes about 20 minutes or less!
No further disassembly required and you don't have to pull out the battery!
You can not tighten or replace the negative without removing the cowl

 

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This is certainly one way to get to the battery. Not yet convinced about the wiper arm removal and those pesky clips as being the best way. Time will tell when it comes time to get to the battery whether I remove the air box or battle the wipers and clips.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Once you have the "OTC 1020" 2 jaw puller The arms are removed in 2 shakes of a lambs tail!
You use a very small flat head to get under clips and work them out! all of 5 minutes!
You have complete access to the battery and both positive and negative posts. takes less time to push them back in by hand!
No further teardown or parts removal needed!
 

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Where does one get the OTC 2 jaw puller?
Just do a web search for: OTC 1020 - 2-Jaw Puller
Many auto parts stores carry this.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I live in Walnut Creek California
None of parts stores had it! Napa/autozone/O'reilly/ Monument/harbor freight/Sears.
I bought it online ! ebay and amazon
cost me $31.00 no shipping charge on amazon
It shouldn't cost that much, but that's what it is.
this was the best price I found!
the base of the wiper arms is 2"
this spreader opens to 2 1/8"
There are no 3 arm jaws that are small enough!
the OTC 1020 is very small and opens enough to get under the 2" arms!
 

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2013 Escape Neg Battery Cable & BMS parts

All my hubby wanted to do was to replace the battery in our 2013 Escape SEL. Yes, it is a **** getting to it. In the process of removing the negative cable, he found that the end on the battery was seriously corroded and the BMS was too and in fact came off in pieces it was so bad - the connector to the battery wiring harness was totally gone. Our guess is that the BMS may have gone bad and allowed the battery to be overcharged as the sides of the battery were bowed out which allowed battery acid to get to the negative connector or it could have been the other way around with the battery going bad, etc.

Ok, we head to the nearest car parts to get a new cable and module - nope those are dealer only parts. Went to a dealer who gave us the part number of the cable but could not find a connector that would work. He sent us to another dealer (luckily we live in east valley of Phoenix with lots of Ford dealers) to get the cable. This happened to be the dealer we purchased the Escape from. Hubby was told that there was no connector available that they always just replaced the battery wiring harness ($500 plus labor). Went back to the first dealership and asked him to research some more since we now knew what the connector was to. He talked to a tech and the tech gave him the part number for the connector. Unfortunately, he didn't have one and sent us to yet another dealer to get it.

This appears to be somewhat of a problem with this model of Escape so we wanted people to know what the part numbers are so they don't have to run all over trying to fix this mess that Ford created.

Negative Cable AV6210C679M
Wiring Pigtail Kit DU2Z14S411AZA

To replace the connector, it does require some soldering and shrink seal, but that is a whole lot cheaper and easier than replacing the whole battery harness.
 

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BCM 5951 – 2012 – 2013 Focus / 2013 Escape – Positive Battery Cable Now Available

Positive battery cable for 2012 – 2013 Focus and 2013 Escape vehicles is now available separate from the 14290 harness assembly. If a positive battery cable is needed to service these vehicles, order part number CV6Z-14300-A, and do not replace the entire 14290 harness.
Please excuse the SERGEANT @ ARMS here for his severe dressing down. He seems to be RA and dedicated to his tenure. At least he did not put him into the ever dreaded DYING COCKROACH POSITION while bringing him up to current regulations regarding this forum.

The parts are hard to discover in the system as in first production the BAT cable and Sensor was part of the main engine harness. It seems as problems arose with the Battery Management System, engineering had to release separate service parts to control warranty repair costs.

Some vehicles were assembled with a loose NEG BAT connection and that caused many problem(s) before engineering finally traced the cause down. Several TSB's have been released concerning the problem and have read endless testimonies of owners having the problem(s).

Battery monitoring System – BMS

Battery Replacement –FORD Service Manual

If the vehicle battery is replaced, it is very important to perform the battery monitoring system reset using the scan tool. If the battery monitoring system reset is not carried out, it holds the old battery parameters and time in service counter in memory. Additionally it tells the system the battery is in an aged state and may limit the Electrical Energy Management system functions.

The BMS data is held in non-volatile memory (it is retained even when the battery is disconnected) and cannot be reset by any means other than use of an appropriate tool plugged into the diagnostics port on the car to send the correct 'BMS reset' command-code to the Body Control Module (BCM).
_____________________________________________________________________________________
MOTORCRAFT Connector Catalogue-

2 PIN Connector

Sensor - Battery Current

DU2Z-14S411-AZA (WPT-1396)

Sensor- Negative BAT Cable "Battery Management System"

AV6Z 10C679-M

When charging the vehicle battery by connecting the charger to the negative battery terminal is necessary, such as when using a combination battery charger and battery tester/analyzer, like the GR 1 190 V3.0 Intelligent Diagnostic Charger, the BCM will not immediately update the battery state of charge. In this instance, after charging, you must carry out the Battery Monitoring System (BMS) Reset using the scan tool. This reset is needed for proper engine off load shedding and to prevent invoking of engine off load shedding earlier than normal.

NOTE: If the reset is not carried out, when the battery is charged by connecting the charger to the negative battery terminal, it takes approximately 8 hours for the BCM to learn the new battery state of charge. During this 8 hour period, the vehicle must be undisturbed, with no doors opened or keyless entry button presses. If the vehicle is used before the BCM is allowed to learn the new battery state of charge, engine off load shedding can still occur and a message may be displayed.

When charging the vehicle battery by connecting the charger to engine or chassis ground, the negative charger clamp must be connected to an unpainted chassis surface or a solid engine component such as a generator mount or engine lifting eye. In this instance, after charging, the BMS Reset is not required. Through this method of charging the BCM will update the battery state of charge during the charging process.
 

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All my hubby wanted to do was to replace the battery in our 2013 Escape SEL. Yes, it is a **** getting to it. In the process of removing the negative cable, he found that the end on the battery was seriously corroded and the BMS was too and in fact came off in pieces it was so bad - the connector to the battery wiring harness was totally gone. Our guess is that the BMS may have gone bad and allowed the battery to be overcharged as the sides of the battery were bowed out which allowed battery acid to get to the negative connector or it could have been the other way around with the battery going bad, etc.

Ok, we head to the nearest car parts to get a new cable and module - nope those are dealer only parts. Went to a dealer who gave us the part number of the cable but could not find a connector that would work. He sent us to another dealer (luckily we live in east valley of Phoenix with lots of Ford dealers) to get the cable. This happened to be the dealer we purchased the Escape from. Hubby was told that there was no connector available that they always just replaced the battery wiring harness ($500 plus labor). Went back to the first dealership and asked him to research some more since we now knew what the connector was to. He talked to a tech and the tech gave him the part number for the connector. Unfortunately, he didn't have one and sent us to yet another dealer to get it.

This appears to be somewhat of a problem with this model of Escape so we wanted people to know what the part numbers are so they don't have to run all over trying to fix this mess that Ford created.

Negative Cable AV6210C679M
Wiring Pigtail Kit DU2Z14S411AZA

To replace the connector, it does require some soldering and shrink seal, but that is a whole lot cheaper and easier than replacing the whole battery harness.
Please note that the correct part number is AV6Z.....
 
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