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Our guess is that the BMS may have gone bad and allowed the battery to be overcharged as the sides of the battery were bowed out which allowed battery acid to get to the negative connector or it could have been the other way around with the battery going bad, etc.

Forgot to commend your hubby on his diagnosis, 100% correct. The loose connection allowed the ALT to overcharge the BAT, causing it to sulfate and the resultant released vapors to corrode the sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Just to clarify the 2 cavity male connector is part of the engine wiring Harness!!
The cost of the engine wiring harness is $800.00 and tons of labor!
the cost of the 2 cavity male plug pig tail "sensor battery current" is under $14.00. the negative cable $41.00 "battery system Management" the sensor is on the negative cable.
4 different Ford dealer parts department told me there was no pigtail available!!! and I would have to buy the the engine wiring harness!!
My Ford dealer Service director said they don't like to splice in pigtails?? They recommend replacing the whole harness!!
Why?? They make tons of money on the harness!! And the very big part of the the cost is the labor probably cost you 4 or 5 hours. in northern California labor rate at least $150.00 an hour
I found the pigtail connector in the Motorcraft pigtail connector catalog after hours of searching!!
I am glade I helped all of you to find this elusive connector which is not suppose to be available!!
 

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Just to clarify the 2 cavity male connector is part of the engine wiring Harness!!

The cost of the engine wiring harness is $800.00 and tons of labor!
the cost of the 2 cavity male plug pig tail "sensor battery current" is under $14.00. the negative cable $41.00 "battery system Management" the sensor is on the negative cable.

4 different Ford dealer parts department told me there was no pigtail available!!! and I would have to buy the the engine wiring harness!!

My Ford dealer Service director said they don't like to splice in pigtails?? They recommend replacing the whole harness!!

Why?? They make tons of money on the harness!! And the very big part of the the cost is the labor probably cost you 4 or 5 hours. in northern California labor rate at least $150.00 an hour


I found the pigtail connector in the Motorcraft pigtail connector catalog after hours of searching!!

I am glade I helped all of you to find this elusive connector which is not suppose to be available!!
GREAT INFO HERE!

The actual connector is a repair kit and yes FORD does approve of the splice if done according to their procedures. You can bet the dealer will not install a complete harness on a warranty repair as FORD will not pay for a new harness and associated labor.

-MOTORCRAFT Wiring Pigtail Kits-
 

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My battery is still good but just in case I thought I would get a 2 leg gear puller for my tool box. I found the Capri Tools 10501 3" 2-Jaw Gear Puller at Walmart, Home Depot, and Amazon for $6.85 + tax. Not in stock in-store at Walmart and Home Depot but free shipping to your store.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Capri-Tools-CP10501-3-Inch-2-Jaw-Gear-Puller/43937727
https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-10501-Puller-3-Inch/dp/B00T8WIF9O
Capri Tools 3 in. 2-Jaw Gear Puller-CP10501 - The Home Depot

I didn't pull an arm off but it should work as well as the more expensive OTC 1020 puller. You will need a 14mm socket and ratchet.


 

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Hey guys i replaced my 2013 S 2.5 battery yesterday. Started fine previously but had all the weak electr symptoms of a fading battery & CCA (orig battery) had dropped to 440. During changeout, i found negative lead w sensor encrusted w acid corrosion. Submerged/soaked entire end of terminal (incl sensor, which looked watertight) into hot water baking soda mix, which cleaned it up nicely, but now it wont start, or click or attempt to turn over, screen reads: Engine malfunction, service now. Pigtail connector looked fine. Likely that i did myself in submerging this sensor, any feedback or experience?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
you should probably replace the negative cable the sensor is on it "battery system management" the sensor and cable parts number has been updated 6 times!!
It would probably be wise to replace the pigtail 2 cavity male connector.
then you know you are good as new!! also have dealer do a battery reset.. they did mine no charge!!
 

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Negative cable w sensor did not work, but reseating the fuse box harness did! (had removed it & reseated it prior, accessing battery via removal of air filter box & fuse harness). Thx
 

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you should probably replace the negative cable the sensor is on it "battery system management" the sensor and cable parts number has been updated 6 times!!
It would probably be wise to replace the pigtail 2 cavity male connector.
then you know you are good as new!! also have dealer do a battery reset.. they did mine no charge!!
I notice that these parts all start with
AV6Z 10C679 but end with different letters...

does one need to find the exact letter ending? Because i searched high and low and mine doesnt appear
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)

This is the latest revision get this negative cable AV6Z10C679P The sensor has the part number on it!
the cable does not show the part # the sensor is what's important.you will see a software version on it. this is what has been updated at least 10 times!
the cable is the same it is the sensor that has caused the problems! that is why you see so many part numbers. the very last letter is what is important! P is the latest revision of software
 

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are you saying it wont work if it isnt the latest software?
It'll work just fine with any of the applicable PNs. The PN suffix change may indicate 'tweaking' of the internal algorithm (BTW, that's firmware, not software), or may just indicate a change in the vendor supplying the part to Ford.

Either may result in a PN distinction, necessary for defect tracking purposes if one should arise.

Whatever the case, there's literally millions of Escapes, Focus, etc working just fine on the road with the 'obsolete' OEM battery cable / BMS sensor PN still installed. Whatever the differences, it hasn't given rise to even a TSB on the subject.
 

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I had two battery go south over 5 years. first had terrible corrosion of the positive cable. Second of the negative.
Forscan showed a fault in the BMS. so I replaced the negative cable, the wiring from the BMS (pigtail) , and the battery and NOW i get 4 faults (not one)!!!
:roll:


Now i have 4 faults
1) Lost Communication With Battery Monitoring Sensor A
2) Code: U0073 - Control Module Communication Bus A Off
3) Code: U0140 - Lost Communication With Body Control Module
4) Code: U3003 - Battery Voltage


Any adive at all would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
are you sure you have a good splice? did you use heat shrink splice covers?
did you get a new and the latest negative cable? BMS Are all your cables tight? the negative cable that bolts to the body?
have you ever thought about getting all your modules updated. there are something like 12 modules that can be updated and 1 of them is the "body control module" which is above the glovebox.
I have had all my modules updated a couple of times
 

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how sensitive can splicing be?
Cables all tightened. Can forscan update the modules?
The poster above indicates that the new and latest cable is not a neccesity.
 

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The poster above indicates that the new and latest cable is not a neccesity.
NO, I said the latest PN (module firmware) is not necessary for your Escape to function, in answer to your question only about the 'software' specifically.

I have no way of knowing whether or not your BMS module hardware is damaged or defective; IF IT IS, you'll need a replacement negative cable with the integral BMS module.

And, even then, I have no way of knowing whether that's the cause of any or all of the problems you are experiencing.

It is my opinion that your problem does not lie in the software/firmware version of any module (contrary to @waverunner10's suggestion). Again, the evidence in support of that is the millions of vehicles that are performing just fine never having had their modules 'updated'; and those vehicles not suddenly displaying DTCs / fault codes.

And no, FORScan does not provide the programming values to 'update' modules.

That's all very different from module, sensor, or other component hardware failure or defect, or defect in any of the many interconnecting harnesses, which may well trigger DTCs.
 

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NO, I said the latest PN (module firmware) is not necessary for your Escape to function, in answer to your question only about the 'software' specifically.

I have no way of knowing whether or not your BMS module hardware is damaged or defective; IF IT IS, you'll need a replacement negative cable with the integral BMS module.

And, even then, I have no way of knowing whether that's the cause of any or all of the problems you are experiencing.

It is my opinion that your problem does not lie in the software/firmware version of any module (contrary to @waverunner10's suggestion). Again, the evidence in support of that is the millions of vehicles that are performing just fine never having had their modules 'updated'; and those vehicles not suddenly displaying DTCs / fault codes.

And no, FORScan does not provide the programming values to 'update' modules.

That's all very different from module, sensor, or other component hardware failure or defect, or defect in any of the many interconnecting harnesses, which may well trigger DTCs.

As I said, I did replace the Battery cable with integral BMS module.
and I agree it does not lie with the software/firmware version. You are right to say otherwise we would be seeing this with all owners.

It is amazing to scour theintenet and see just how many folks have this same issue of repeated battery faiure.
One more area where ford has screwed up. One more area where they have not taken owners complaints seriouslty.
One more reason to never buy FORD
 
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