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guess i will try another Cable and see if that one works. Seems unlikley. Not sure HO wi would test the harnesses?
 

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My 2016 Titanium is at Long-Lewis Ford right now waiting on parts from Memphis. The service advisor sent me these part numbers: battery cable is part no. AV6Z-10C679-P (OEM part is -BF); pigtail connector is part no. DU2Z-14S411-AZA (aka WPT-1396). He said the parts total around $100 but he quoted $443 for the whole job. If you can replace these parts yourself, you can definitely save some money. This is what the original part looks like on a four-year-old car.

DSCN4629.JPG
 

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This is what the original part looks like on a four-year-old car.
Not all four-year-old cars.

That corrosion on a negative terminal / cable is the combined effect of hydrogen gas, atmospheric air, an unprotected terminal, and is exacerbated by an undercharged / near end-of-life / damaged battery. All of the same factors apply to the positive terminal except that overcharging is the exacerbating condition.
  • All flooded-cell batteries generate hydrogen gas which is vented to the atmosphere (true AGM batteries are not flooded-cell and do not have a vent); that alone is enough to promote corrosion, particularly if the battery has a cover which restricts dispersion of that gas.
  • It's not terribly uncommon for batteries to suffer damage to the seal where the post(s) penetrate the plastic case, allowing both hydrogen gas and sometimes even the liquid acid solution to leak from the case at that point (making terminal corrosion very likely); inspection for dampness around the post can reveal that (battery replacement is the cure when that happens).
  • A liberal coating of generic bearing grease, covering all metal surfaces of the terminal and cable-end, can go a long way toward preventing corrosion by isolating the metal from surrounding atmosphere; it may be a bit messy but IME is longer lasting and more effective than so-called 'battery terminal protection sprays'.
  • Pushing a battery to it's absolute end-of-life increases the potential for an ongoing undercharged condition, exacerbating the tendency for negative terminal corrosion.
A bit of preventive maintenance will allow battery terminals to remain 'as good as new' for many, many years, avoiding consequential issues / costs along the way. BTDT, I've never had significant corrosion (nip-it when first observed) or had to replace an OE battery terminal / cable on any vehicle I've ever owned, all of them over 4-years old (including my Escape), many of them decades old.

Just FYI.
 

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"Preventative maintenance" I am with you 100% on that.
But I wish Ford would grease up at the factory. Especially after they made it hard to get to the negative terminal.
 

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Hey guys!
Im having the same issue with remote start turning off after 15-30 seconds. It all started a couple of months ago with Sears not even changing out the battery but just testing it. Could they of jostled something during the test? I had thought that it was the battery and had the battery swapped out but still same problem. Brought to Ford and they said it was the bms module that the connector was chafed and that it would need replacement and quoted me $487 dollars plus tax. I took some pics of the wire that's freyed but none of the copper was affected so I cant imagine that's where the problem is?

Do I need a new bms module? Or just the 2 pin connector? Or just a battery system reset? Even my negative battery cable is clean as a whistle. Does anyone have any thoughts? It's a 2013 Ford escape and I included some Pics to hopefully clarify.just trying to figure out how to upload them because I think they might be too big. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
 

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You could get a pin removal tool. They are sold in a lot of places. Remove the pins , slide a piece of heat shrink over the pin and place over the chaffed area, heat it with a hair dryer then put the pin in the connector.

That will work. Of course that’s assuming they did not damage the connector or the module.
 

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Check for resistance (using a multimeter) between the connector pin and that bared section of copper. (It appears the wire might have been pulled out the plug a bit?)

I'd just get some decent heat shrink tape and wrap it up if the continuity is okay. It saves trying to remove the pin from the plug.
 

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Check for resistance (using a multimeter) between the connector pin and that bared section of copper. (It appears the wire might have been pulled out the plug a bit?)

I'd just get some decent heat shrink tape and wrap it up if the continuity is okay. It saves trying to remove the pin from the plug.
Thanks murcod! My buddy who is an electrician didn't think that the exposed copper would cause a voltage drop or change in current. Good idea to check it though!

I'll check it and then check back in.

Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk
 

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Any idea what caused the damage to the wire insulation, Sears perhaps? You could probably safely get away with decent insulation tape on that wire- it's in a protected area.

Ideally, you'd want to check for continuity for both electrical pins to the relevant BCM plug, but the usual source for legit free online wiring diagrams has shutdown public access.
 
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