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Are you or is anyone else familiar with a good method of getting in contact with them?
Phone Ford Customer service. A quick google search will give you the number. You can also search this site for the number
 

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Has anyone come up with s solution for this issue? My husband is afraid to drive his afraid it will stall while on the interstate and be in an accident with the kids in the car?






I have a 2013 Escape SE with the 1.6 in it that will consistently stall after a warm start.


I have figured out the exact conditions to make the car stall. It does it once the vehicle is warmed up and after the car has sat in a parking lot for 20-25 minutes. I can start the car up cold and drive it anywhere and its perfect, but after its been parked for a short period as soon as I start moving in drive it will sputter out and die like its running out of gas. After it dies it has an extended crank but has always starts back up. Sometimes after it starts back up it will die again. It also wont do it if it has sat for a couple of hours.



The engine light does not illuminate and there are no codes.



I have searched this forum and found multiple threads about people having the same issue, but no one has seemed to been able to get it fixed. At this point I am hoping someone has some insight or information.



Any help would be appreciated!
 

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I had a similar issue recently, and it was the throttle body. There was no engine light or persistent code, but I was lucky enough to have access to people who could pull the historical codes out of the ECU. I think it was a P2111, and they weren't surprised to see it. A dealer shop should have the software to pull those saved codes.

The part is fairly cheap, and it's literally a 15 minute install, if that is the problem.
My dad's Transit van had the exact same issue.
 

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Hasn’t anyone solved this issue. I have it on 2016

Looking fo the solution to stalling and rough running after warm up. Can’t believe no one has a answer. Please post if you know what this is.
 

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I finally solved the issue on my wife’s escape. I work at a shop so I have some access to information and equipment some of you may not. First thing was I found a TSB that vaguely described the problem. The TSB reference number is 16-0161. This is the TSB “Some 2015-2016 Escape vehicles equipped with 1.6L Gasoline Turbocharged Direct Injection (GTDI) engines built on or before 30-Sep-2015 may exhibit runs rough, lack of power, surge, buck/jerk, miss, loss of RPM, hesitation and/or an illuminated MIL with diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0236 stored in the powertrain control module (PCM) memory. These conditions may be caused by a wiring concern in the reference voltage circuit (VREF) splice”. After finding that TSB I proceeded to replace the splice. At the same time as replacing the splice I chose to update the software in the PCM, BCM and TCM using ford software. After updating the software the vehicle started saying engine fault service now in the center information center yet did not turn on the check engine light. It did however have a code stored in the pcm for the low pressure fuel pressure sensor. I proceeded to replace that sensor and at the same time I noticed oil leaking out of both camshaft sensors. I also replaced the cam sensors. After that series of repairs the car has been perfect for months. I’m not sure which exact repair fixed it but I do know that is finally fixed. I hope this information will help you fellow escape owners get that annoying problem fixed.
 

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Well thank you for this answer. I’was Leaning towards the same conclusion as the wiring harness since the codes I’m getting are all over the place. Additionally the permanent codes were P0106 and P0236 which were referenced in the 13-12-12 TSB. I would have expected the 2016 to have been corrected. I have the 2.0 ECO and I already replaced the 2 fuel pressure sensors and not seeing fuel as an issue. The amount and different codes are so random and (pending) unconfirmed its apparent many are the result of the stalling and not the cause. I really can’t thank you enough for confirming this in these later year vehicles. Unfortunately I guessing this isn’t covered in the Powertrain warranty. 36 months expired on 2/4/19 and problem started 2/7/19. I’m already at 42,000 miles so that’s that. Can you tell me were in the harness I should be looking for the splice(s) I will need to fix?

Thanks again.
 

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Well thank you for this answer. I’was Leaning towards the same conclusion as the wiring harness since the codes I’m getting are all over the place. Additionally the permanent codes were P0106 and P0236 which were referenced in the 13-12-12 TSB. I would have expected the 2016 to have been corrected. I have the 2.0 ECO and I already replaced the 2 fuel pressure sensors and not seeing fuel as an issue. The amount and different codes are so random and (pending) unconfirmed its apparent many are the result of the stalling and not the cause. I really can’t thank you enough for confirming this in these later year vehicles. Unfortunately I guessing this isn’t covered in the Powertrain warranty. 36 months expired on 2/4/19 and problem started 2/7/19. I’m already at 42,000 miles so that’s that. Can you tell me were in the harness I should be looking for the splice(s) I will need to fix?

Thanks again.
As WaveRunner mentioned, your powertrain warranty is still in effect. I would get this to the dealer when you have the opportunity. I hope you didn't replace those centers on your dime, they likely would've been covered under your warranty.
 

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Solved stalling problem

​I have a 2016, 2.0. After 3 weeks of trying to figure out what the problem is the solution is now found and I'm betting I won't be the only one with this issue. This wire issue is not the one in the TSB and not currently in a recall. This vehicle at approximately 43,000 mile produced the same symptoms as the TSB 13-12-12. Motor suddenly stalling, backfire sometimes, rough running, loss of power, etc. Wire had worn through the wire harness wrap and eventually one of the wires in the bundle atop the motor from chaffing on a post. This caused the PCM to throw numerous codes and disable critical safety systems. Random, erratic and unpredictable. Wire bundle aligned with the fuel rail begins at the driver side of the motor. At the point where it begins up come to the motor there is a post (aluminum, top, front, drivers side of motor). This wire bundle was not sufficiently protected from chaffing The remainder of the wire is well secured and insulated but this point is literally and accident waiting to happen. This was very difficult to find as the problem as it was so intermittent. Not covered under the 5/100 K warranty and my dealer charged me $318.00 which I feel was good considering what it could have been. Not happy I had to pay at all but! In total I've spent over $600 getting this figured out and resolved. I like Ford cars and trucks but this is unacceptable. This last breakdown placed my family in great danger as there was no safe place to get off the road (70 MPH Interstate with little shoulder and merging state highway). This was the third time having to tow this vehicle for this. I will be making a report to NHTSA. I am certain others will experience this failure and I hope no one gets hurt. In my case it also disabled the restraint systems and airbags when it occurred.
 

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I still believe this should have been covered on the Drivetrain Warranty!!
did you ever call Ford Motor Company 800 number?
Unless you did something to the vehicle to cause this in an accident or modification?
Did you ever talk to the Service Manager?
 

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I was unaware the dealer was open for service on Saturday and expected it to be addressed Monday. It was towed in Friday night. They had a specialized Tech working there Saturday and the service manager was not available. I'm not done talking. I will be addressing this further. I met with the tech and he was no doubt above average. I made my arguments with the service rep working weekends but he really had no power to make any decisions and beating him up would be pointless. The car has had no mods or wrecks and it's beyond clear this is just a bad job on wiring design. The problem is the wiring harness is specifically not covered past 3/36k. I agree with you that it should be. It makes me wonder why the harness isn't in the 5/60K warranty. Any properly installed harness should last way beyond these mileages without issues. I get that corrosion may infiltrate them in the rust belt but again, not the issue in this vehicle. Very obvious this is just a poor design. I will be call the Ford 800 number.
 

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Ford's answer to their obvious defect is "sorry." "We can't do anything for you". I guess maybe there was something I should have done to prevent this? Maybe they're only designed for 40,000 miles? I'll buy a spare harness and keep it with the spare tire. Too stupid. I grew up in Dearborn. Sad. I thought better of Ford.
 

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I'm sorry I've not read the entire post. Have you tried cleaning/replacing the "mass air sensor"? Seems I've read someplace that this can cause stalling and rough idling issues. Just a thought. :)
 

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I'm sorry I've not read the entire post. Have you tried cleaning/replacing the "mass air sensor"? Seems I've read someplace that this can cause stalling and rough idling issues. Just a thought. :)
Apparently it was a wiring harness problem with one wire freeing itself and chaffing on the body somewhere...:)
 

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2015 Titanium stalling after warm start

My 2015 Titanium started occasionally stalling after a warm start at about 52000 miles. By 57000 miles, it was doing it all the time, and it had also started stalling while idling in traffic jams. It had gotten to the point where I was afraid to drive it! I took it to the Ford dealer, and the first time, they replaced the Active Grill Shutter, which they said was causing the problem. I will say that the Escape had more power after the replacement, but unfortunately it stalled again. So, I took it back to the dealer, along with a printout of this forum discussion. Fortunately, they were able to replicate the problem, and after 4 days of diagnostics, they narrowed it down to the Fuel Pressure Sensor, which was replaced under my extended warranty. I'm getting it back tomorrow and I am crossing my fingers that it is really fixed this time!
 

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Bump! I’m reviving this old thread because my wife was just a victim to the stalling while driving. IT HAPPEN ON THE INTERSTATE! With my 2 month son in the back, she managed to get the car off the road dodging a semi and another vehicle. She restarted it and drove it home to get in my GMC Duramax. Car unfortunately has just over 100k on it, we bought it Certified Pre-Owned. I’m contacting Ford in the morning. I keep reading about this issue and Ford apparently issues a recall but we were never informed. Car was only 4 months old when we bought it. I can only image what Ford is going to say or lack of. Did anyone find a definite fix for this issue? I know I am not comfortable with my wife and child driving a vehicle with this issue.
 

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Bump! I’m reviving this old thread because my wife was just a victim to the stalling while driving. IT HAPPEN ON THE INTERSTATE! With my 2 month son in the back, she managed to get the car off the road dodging a semi and another vehicle. She restarted it and drove it home to get in my GMC Duramax. Car unfortunately has just over 100k on it, we bought it Certified Pre-Owned. I’m contacting Ford in the morning. I keep reading about this issue and Ford apparently issues a recall but we were never informed. Car was only 4 months old when we bought it. I can only image what Ford is going to say or lack of. Did anyone find a definite fix for this issue? I know I am not comfortable with my wife and child driving a vehicle with this issue.
This may be the same issue I had. Very frustrating and sounds very much the same. Works, then doesn't work. The wiring harness on top of the motor was the culprit. Pull off the engine cover. Simply pull up on it and pay attention to the plastic hub connectors before putting it back on later. The harness looked perfect but was rubbing on one of the aluminum posts it was routed around. With engine running and moving around these wires the engine would stall and then its just a matter of shielding them with anything. Plastic loom works. You should fix the exposed wire of course. I've never had it happen again since fixing this.
 
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