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This may be the same issue I had. Very frustrating and sounds very much the same. Works, then doesn't work. The wiring harness on top of the motor was the culprit. Pull off the engine cover. Simply pull up on it and pay attention to the plastic hub connectors before putting it back on later. The harness looked perfect but was rubbing on one of the aluminum posts it was routed around. With engine running and moving around these wires the engine would stall and then its just a matter of shielding them with anything. Plastic loom works. You should fix the exposed wire of course. I've never had it happen again since fixing this.
Can you post your Yr. and Engine,, so others can check theirs for same...Pictures would be helpful too...Thanks
 

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I have a 2015 Ford Escape Ecoboost that I purchased in 2017. I purchased an OSI warranty with it. The engine started stalling randomly when I pressed the brakes. I spoke with the dealership and was told that it sounded like a typical throttle body failure. The part was replaced quickly. It happened again within a few weeks, the dealership recommended a new battery. Done. Within another few weeks, it happened yet again. They put a flight recorder on my car, the problem didnt occur during the week it was installed. They took it back on a Friday, the next Thursday, my car died again. This time, they spoke of a TSB that came out about a wire in the wiring harness that caused similar symptoms. We went ahead with that, and yet again the problem repeated itself. I left my car with them for a week while out of the country. During that week, they discovered the remote start on my car. Apparently, they were unaware my car had it. After some research, Ive discovered that this Ford part was installed on my vehicle by a Ford technician at a dealership during the original purchase. According to the dealership, this isnt covered by my warranty, they cant replicate the problem, and its going to cost me a couple of hundred dollars to have it disconnected to try and correct the problem. The tech at the dealership informed me that they had seen in the forums that the remote start could cause these issues. BUT since its an "aftermarket" modification, no one seems to want to fix it. Personally, I feel since Ford manufactured and installed this part into a Ford vehicle, and Ford knows this causes a safety issue within their vehicles, it shouldn't be my responsibility to pay to disable it. Extra aggravation with the whole, they still don't know if this will fix it situation. I have a call in to the Ford CSR and they were of no help, so a "supervisor" should be returning my call tomorrow. We'll see. I will never purchase a Ford again.
 

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Anyone who keeps having this problem of their engine cutting out and the dealership not being able to duplicate or fix the problem all have the same problem. It's the throttle body, have that replaced and it will fix your issue. If your dealership wont warranty it just fork over the $140 for a new one and just have done and fixed and over. But that is what causes the problem, it's very intermittent, and most of the time doesn't throw a code for some reason. I used to be a service manager at a Ford dealership in Utah for 5 years before going somewhere else and I found that out a long time ago and made the lives of many ford owners very happy. And this problem just isnt with the ford escape, it's on most models that have that same throttle body on all different engines eco boost or not.
 

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Anyone who keeps having this problem of their engine cutting out and the dealership not being able to duplicate or fix the problem all have the same problem. It's the throttle body, have that replaced and it will fix your issue. If your dealership wont warranty it just fork over the $140 for a new one and just have done and fixed and over. But that is what causes the problem, it's very intermittent, and most of the time doesn't throw a code for some reason. I used to be a service manager at a Ford dealership in Utah for 5 years before going somewhere else and I found that out a long time ago and made the lives of many ford owners very happy. And this problem just isnt with the ford escape, it's on most models that have that same throttle body on all different engines eco boost or not.
Well, I hope you stick around and help forum members with your wealth of knowledge.
 

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I have a 2013 1.6 litre ford escape which I have been experiencing similar issues with for years now. It started with a couple strange sensors displaying warnings like 4x4 is shutting down, but never completing the sequence on the dash graphic and hill assist is shutting down. It stalls while vehicle is in driving down the road, RpM's fluctuate all over the place before the stall actual occurs. I've had it to Multiple dealships over the years that state they can't recreate this issue. Since my vehicle has started experiencing the first effect of the stalls 2 years ago it has had both the water pump flow selonoid and turbo control solenoid fail and need replacing. Issue went away for about almost a year, however after having the timing belt replaced recently the issue has returned and is worse then ever. It's been stalling while driving down the road at higher speeds, have experienced jolting while driving down the highway. Hard time starting, engine turns over continuously then stalls. RpM's fluctuating while idling and then stalling. There is no warning lights that display on the dash with the exception of when it stalls the oil light and engine light appear. Dealerships have never been able to pull a code for this stalling issue. However, these issues aren't happening everytime I use the car. It will act normally for a couple short trips to the store or to work, then it will act up again the next morning. Brought back to the dealership who did the timing belt replacement. They said the timing is fine, but the alternator is giving a voltage drop and they want to replace it for $1200. However, I have owned many vehicles in the past and have never experienced an alternator that has had these symptoms before. Currently my vehicle is sitting I. Front of my house while I had to rent a car because it wouldn't start forthe first 5 tries this morning, then once it did start it only made it a couple of blocks from the house and stalled and refused to start again. I have never been so disappointed in a vehicle make and series of dealerships in their lack of fixing an issue.
 

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If there are any folks out there who have had this problem and taken it to the dealer only to be told "We cant duplicate it and we dont know what to do to fix it" I have just had to take mine to the dealer after 2 separate incidents of eng cutting out while turning at intersections, the fix for this is TSB 13-12-12 see below, the dealer was aware of this problem and went straight to the fix first time and was able to duplicate the exact same issue, they were able to get the eng to stall by playing with the wiring harness. Hope this helps anyone who has been getting the 'runaround' from their dealer.
TSB Number: TSB-13-12-12NHTSA Number: 10054363TSB Date: November 28, 2013Date Added to File: January 15, 2014 Failing Component:
Electrical System Summary:
Ford: diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0106, P0236, for loss of rpm, hesitation, difficult to start, crank no start, runs rough, lack of power and also a message displayed-engine fault service engine now may be caused by wiring in signal ret:):):)
Yep, had that issue with my '13 SEL. Dealer couldn't duplicate it so after a year of never knowing what intersection it was going to shut off, I traded it in.
 

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Anyone who keeps having this problem of their engine cutting out and the dealership not being able to duplicate or fix the problem all have the same problem. It's the throttle body, have that replaced and it will fix your issue. If your dealership wont warranty it just fork over the $140 for a new one and just have done and fixed and over. But that is what causes the problem, it's very intermittent, and most of the time doesn't throw a code for some reason. I used to be a service manager at a Ford dealership in Utah for 5 years before going somewhere else and I found that out a long time ago and made the lives of many ford owners very happy. And this problem just isnt with the ford escape, it's on most models that have that same throttle body on all different engines eco boost or not.
Denied. While it is the most common problem, it isnt the only problem. As I have had my throttle body replaced already and then theyve looked at it repeatedly since then. Check my previous comment out, its just before yours. My intermittent cut off is caused by the Ford Remote Start.
 

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Hello Tricia,
My name is Brian Roberts. Sitting in my driveway is a 1997 Ford Expedition (works great), a 2013 Ford Escape (issues since we got it), a 2005 Ford Excursion (6.0 Power Stroke, we all know the issues those had) and at my father's house is a 2005 Ford Escape that was given to me by my Mother due to transmission shudder and then I gave it to my father (they are divorced).
So at this point in my life, I've been pretty loyal to Ford. I would think for a relatively cheap fix on Ford's part, fixing this issues would be something Ford would choose to do, but maybe not. This will be the last Ford purchased, EVER, if this doesn't get resolved, because right after I send this I am getting into my Ford Excursion (with a $15,000 new engine I needed to install since Ford's 6.0 was junk) hooking up my trailer and going to pick up my wives 2013 Escape sitting in her works parking lot.

So far it had problems from the get go. I went to Lebanon Ford in Lebanon Ohio and they did some door handle fixes and BS recalls that didn't help us in any way. I was a Green Beret in the Military and worked for many "agencies" so doing my due diligence is something I quite use to. I told them everyone was saying on the forums it was a wiring harness issue. They would not fix it. I have since read how Ford chose to not have an external transmission filter and how Ford chose to use sub par quality parts (for the years 2013-2014) and the transmission filter would become clogged due to the breakdown of material in the transmission. This car has left my wife stranded numerous times and it's getting old.

Please see what can be done because I have spent no less than 20 hours reading forums, talking to mechanics, and picking this POS up when it breaks. Pardon my language, but if I was as successful at my job as Ford was at building a car, Al-Qaeda would be overrunning our streets. I have 12 deployments to Iraq, Afghanistan and others. I have spent more time in war zones them most spend in an entire enlistment and I damn sure don't want to be working on a 2013 Ford ( I understand why I would need to work on my 1997, but it works just fine, was this before Ford made a conscious decision to start designing stuff to break or need service? (That's how I see it)

VIN 1FMCU9H94DUC70920
Milage 60,000 is my best guess, it's at her work.
I went to Lebanon Ford, they don't seem helpful. I even brought up how Ford would be liable if her car stalls on the highway and she gets in an accident, since this has been addressed and there and countless examples of this being a problem, they don't care.
Phone number 513-939-5930

Respectfully,

Brian Roberts
US Army Special Forces (Veteran)
 

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Hi @Specialforces18e

I wanted to let you know that Ford Service no longer monitors this forum, they haven’t for quite a while. So Tricia won’t see your post. Your best bet is to contact Ford customer service and open a case file with them. You can google the phone number. If you want to speak with Ford corporate. Oh, and welcome to the forum.
 

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So anyone that may be of some assistance or advice I would greatly appreciate it. I got to my wife's work and the car was backed into a spot that may of had a 4% uphill. (Probably 3%). I tried to give it throttle and then put it into drive, stalled. I then started it in neutral and reaved it to about 4K rpms and it actually would roll back and then try to go into gear at 2000 rpms. I figured this was a safety feature so I then started from neutral and began to throttle as I shifted from N into D. I went about a foot each time turning to the right to try to get the car flat (leaning to the right but flat as we face forward since the 3% downgrade was to our right now). Then I told my son to push the car as I did it. The car ALMOST stalled but did go. I tried it several more times and was able to keep the car running as long as I put it in N at a red light and it was flat. For all other lights that had an incline, I (safely) ran those to keep the car moving.

My conclusion is the engine is running fine. The idle seems to be where it needs to be. I can't see this as a wiring harness because I am aware of how a short circuit and or rubbing wires would act and this is consistently the same issue, consistently, and shorts don't behave in this manner.

My questions are:
1. Will a throttle body fix this? I have read this may fix my issue.
2. I also read this maybe a torque converter issue. Any one think this may be the problem with what I listed as the symptoms?
3. I just recently had the transmission oil changed (yes I used the proper ATF) trying to fix this problem, does anyone see this being the problem? I have read the "Forced" method that Ford uses can actually create more problems then draining it and refilling it several times, plus I am really starting to not trust Ford, so I elected to go that route.

Thanks in advance to anyone that can help.

Respectfully,

Brian
 

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Did you do the level check when you drained and refilled the atf fluid? Just putting back what comes out doesn’t necess do it.

Don’t get why you say the engine is running fine when at stop lights you have to go to neutral and massage the throttle.
Also why you dismiss wiring issues on a digital computer controlled car. Shorts in a digital system aren't like normal power shorts.
Maybe you know something else? Can’t figure it out from your description.


From reading this thread recently, seems to be 3 or 4 choices. There may be more further back.
1)Throttle body.
2) TSB wiring loom issue.
3) Other wiring loom
4) TSB plus fuel pressure sensors plus cam sensors.

2) TSB issue:
Some 2015-2016 Escape vehicles equipped with 1.6L Gasoline Turbocharged Direct Injection (GTDI) engines built on or before 30-Sep-2015 may exhibit runs rough, lack of power, surge, buck/jerk, miss, loss of RPM, hesitation and/or an illuminated MIL with diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0236 stored in the powertrain control module (PCM) memory. These conditions may be caused by a wiring concern in the reference voltage circuit (VREF) splice”.
3) Other wiring loom issue.
This wire issue is not the one in the TSB and not currently in a recall. This vehicle at approximately 43,000 mile produced the same symptoms as the TSB 13-12-12. Motor suddenly stalling, backfire sometimes, rough running, loss of power, etc. Wire had worn through the wire harness wrap and eventually one of the wires in the bundle atop the motor from chaffing on a post. This caused the PCM to throw numerous codes and disable critical safety systems. Random, erratic and unpredictable. Wire bundle aligned with the fuel rail begins at the driver side of the motor. A
4) -I think that was the guy I quoted in 2) above. He did the whole thing at once and wasn't certain if it was one or all.
 

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I should clarify. On my original post I thought the person reading (I have been made aware that Ford does not read this now) my wife has the 2.0 turbo, not the 1.6.
I will try to address everything but I have to scroll up and down and get very little of my screen to use with the keyboard up and the menu at the top (mobile device).

The ATF was not checked. After about 10 (just like with Intel overseas, the information needs to be sourced many times before it's considered actionable) videos on YouTube, some of the people saying they work for Ford, that there isn't a dip stick or way to check them, just to plug the upper hole when it stops coming out (or trickles out). This is how we checked it if that is what you mean.

Why I say the engine is running fine is because if no load is put on the engine (the transmission) it will start and run flawless. It idles perfectly and never for a moment even feels like it would die. Throttle up and it revs with no issues. (Yes it may be the engine, but from my 30 years of working on 4 wheelers, boats, motorcycles, jet skis, excavators and other automobiles, it doesn't seem to be the engine, however with newer cars and more complex systems, it may be). I put it in neutral to remove the load, I did not have to play with the throttle until it was time to move, then throttle up as I was shifting from N to D to get enough speed to prevent the engine from dying. If I didn't give it throttle before shifting, it would die. It seems like as long as the car is moving, it won't die.

Dismissing the wiring issue on a car with computers, that is my mistake, it won't happen again. It could be the wiring. My line of thought was a brake light that has a frayed wire will work sometimes and not others. Or a temperature gauge on my excavator, it would kill the machine sometimes (I found the short eventually) but for the most part it worked. It kept getting worse and worse until I had to address it.

1)Throttle body. (I have no clue and will try this)
2) TSB wiring loom issue. (Ford ranger our VIN and said we were not part of that recall. I see some people on here have the same issue yet their VIN isn't on the recall either. Just like them, I don't know why some are and some are not, but reading through the forum, another dealer did his wiring harness and it did fix his although his VIN wasn't on the list.
3) Other wiring loom (First I have heard of this, the more information you provide the better chances I can get it fixed)
4) TSB plus fuel pressure sensors plus cam sensors. (Fuel pressure sensor seems likely, it feels like it isn't getting enough fuel to keep the rpms up with a load on it unless moving already. Also the scan tool said the cam sensor was an issue, but after about 4 hours (and my god some of you must be geniuses because this technician had his computer hooked up and showed what damn near everything did and how it effected the other sensor and wow) of more YouTube videos about cam sensors and more forums, it was decided to wait on that. I didn't want to throw on part after part when the problem may lie elsewhere.

So, like I always do when I'm in the know and other and not. "This is what I would do if I was you".

That is the question for anyone that can help. Tell me "this is what I would do if I was you".

Thank you.
 

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It’s that damn rebuilt carb somebody put in! Only new ones work right!
Oh wait, wrong decade...
If those things were black magic, we’ve hyper-spaced to all black with magic lights.

I guess the issue with throttle bodies is the electronics in that black end cap. It doesn’t know what position the throttle is in, sends wrong signals etc.

I don’t know what part# it is. I get varying answers.

Tasca Parts CP9Z-9E926-A $216
Ford Parts Giant DS7Z-9E926-C $107
Rock Auto DS7Z-9E926-C -reman for $66 plus core charge. (Prob just say no)

Ford just gives 9E926 and the photo is a different # all together. $191
(Note PS = German for horse-strength,”Pferdestärke”. Close enough to Sae hp.)

Wholesale Ford Parts Fast
CP9Z-9E926-A $220

So I’d go to thr dealer with the VIN and get the right number. Or you could read it off the one you have. Then see if it’s superseded at dealer. (Doesn’t look it.

If it was me, and I don’t know much about these, only been here a few weeks, I’d start with that wiring harness Bruce mentioned, and the throttle body. I’d probably clean it and relearn it first before replacing it. Take it off to clean it. Don’t do it while it is hooked up, as it can break a finger or chop off a tip.
While in there look at the cam sensors see if they’re leaking oil.

I’d want to find an indy Ford guy. Unless the dealer is good and you could talk to the mechanic or knowledgeable svce manager. I might find the Snap-On or Mac Tools guy and ask them.

Hopefully the indy would have the Ford IDS system. (Couple grand, or couple hundred and a prayer Chinese knockoff) .
At the very least Forscan freeware.

Most don’t want to deal with “internet theories”. In a way, I can’t blame them, like Docs dealing with people diagnosing themselves with bizarre diseases.

I should have mentioned I’d get a service manual. Not some Haynes/Chilton thing.

 

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Jsnow,
What does "relearn it before replacing it" mean?

"I'd want to find an Indy Ford guy". Does that mean an independent Ford guy?

Sorry if these are dumb questions. This isn't my world. My wife has told me many times I might as well be speaking Chinese when I start talking with other Special Ops guys. Any term that is common sense in the mechanic/technician arena I may not know, my apologies.

Thank you for the reply.
 

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I have found what relearn the fuel module is. I am cleaning it now. Is there a way a "normal" guy can relearn this (maybe by holding a wire from the positive side of the battery and the negative disconnected terminal?) Someone said this will reset the computer but I don't know if that procedure sets the fuel module back to it's normal setting as well.
 

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Jsnow,
What does "relearn it before replacing it" mean?

"I'd want to find an Indy Ford guy". Does that mean an independent Ford guy?

Sorry if these are dumb questions. This isn't my world. My wife has told me many times I might as well be speaking Chinese when I start talking with other Special Ops guys. Any term that is common sense in the mechanic/technician arena I may not know, my apologies.

Thank you for the reply.
Yes independent Ford mechanic. Not a Ford dealer.

"Relearn" - watch the video. Don't know if this is actually necessary or it will happen anyway just by driving. Appears it can also be done by the computer repair system tool used by mechanic.

The computer and the throttle body need to come back to speaking terms, so to speak. How the signal from the computer affects the throttle plate position, where the position is, how much air is actually let in to affect fuel-air ratio. (a lot of that is me guessing)

Before "drive by wire", electronic control of throttle, it was a cable pulled by the gas pedal that controlled the throttle plate.
Drive by wire is why these days you can get delays between when you press the pedal and when the car accelerates. Like the delay on digital cameras between pressing the button and when it takes the picture.

I don't really know all that much about this stuff, but here's dome badics.
Likely your brain is crammed full of acronyms. Here's a few more:
OBD: onboard diagnostic
OBD Port is the plug you connect to for access to the system.
OBDII is used on vehicles since 1996
Thosee OBD readers you can buy for $20+ have very limited use. Mainly reading some codes. They can't get to the level to make system changes or advanced diagnostics.
Not the worse thing as you can make things inoperable screwing around with the vehicle's system.
IDS = Integrated Diagnostic system, Ford's proprietary system. It works on a software license of fixed time. You pay for the time period. Not cheap.

VCM = Vehicle Control Module.
They're using VCM2, VCMII, now. It's the hardware piece that plugs into the OBDII port left of steering wheel.
I think minimum for this piece is $800+. Then you need the software license to use it.
There are chinese copies and cracked software available. Some work.

Also, systems available from Snap-On and other makers of vehicle diagnostic tools. How exactly they are limited compared to IDS is beyond me. Functionally, probably close. None are cheap.

Forscan = Freeware, free software, developed by people to get around Ford's proprietary IDS system. (Forscan.org is the site. Very confusing btw. Remember, it's free or basically free)
It communicates with the vehicle system on a level way beyond simple OBD scanner tools. You can change things, get codes, watch signals from sensors. Possible to screw things up also. It works with $20-80 OBD port connectors.

There's also Foccus, a freeware program. Don't know much about it.

There's lots of modules to the car. Essentially small computers that communicste with the things that make the car work, operate windows, hvac, etc. Very few things are the old ststem of a powered wire to a device.
DTC- diagnostic trouble code
PID- parameter identifier. An address in in memory which has information
CAN- controller area network. Connects the modules
HSCAN- high speed CAN
MSCAN- medium speed CAN

Some modules:

HS CAN:
PCM - powertrain control module
BCM - body control module
APIM - accesory protocol interface module (wtf!) basically the Sync computer
SASM- steering angle sensor module
PSCM- power steering control module
ABSM- abs module
RCM- restraint control module
PAM- parking aid control module
OCS- occupant classification system module
MSCAN
FCIM- front controls interface module
PDM- passenger door module
DDM- drivers door module
HVAC - hvac module
IPC- instrument control module
ACM - audio control module

So one simple area where "dumb objects" meet the vehicle system is the battery. There are no chips in the battery to tell the vehicle what it is. So when you replace it, the car doesn't know it's new. This matters to the BMS, battery management system, because charge rates and how long say the radio is left on changes. I guess a sophisticated battery "tester" is too expensive for little benefit. Just tell the computer you changed the battery. Fair enough, but on the escape, at least 2014, 16 might be different, you need to plug into the obd port and use something like Forscan, vcm2, or other tool, to reset.
The car will still run fine, but the battery won't get it's proper charge rate.

This issue somewhat happens with everyday battery packs.. Remember all those lithium battery fires? The situation has been dealt with by the electronic controllers of the batteries. So that cordless drill bat has a controller in it. With a lot of them you can't just go in and solder new battery cells in if they go bad. Like you can with older nickel metal hydride, nimh, battery packs. Once a cell goes bad on these lithium packs, the controller calls it quits and that's it! Maybe one could hack it but you'd have to know a lot.

Complicated eh?
Amazing the car works at all. But this is why there's stuff like "relearning". The system is always monitoring, and when you turn the key on it checks that things are ok. Then when the engine starts, more checks. I guess that's when the throttle body if replaced starts calibrating with the computer. So the system is setup to fix itself in a limited way, you don't have to go and plug in values when stuff starts to wear for example.
But then stuff doesn't work...
 

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I have found what relearn the fuel module is. I am cleaning it now. Is there a way a "normal" guy can relearn this (maybe by holding a wire from the positive side of the battery and the negative disconnected terminal?) Someone said this will reset the computer but I don't know if that procedure sets the fuel module back to it's normal setting as well.
Watch that video above in relearning the throttle body. Essentially, yes, do what you said. As far as I know, that drains the capacitors in the PCM. I guess that resets it, but not certain if that's exactly what it does.
Then reconnect, start car and let idle for like 10minutes.

Not sure you realize these engines are direct injection. Fuel is not sprayed into the intake manifold, but directly into the cylinder. Upshot- use good synthetic oil and change that and the airfilter regularly. Also, don't use crap gas all the time. Be sure to use "tier 1" fuel- Shell, Mobil, Citgo, BP etc. The big names. They have more cleaning additives in them.

Also, since valve timing and turbo boost are variable and controllable, and there is knock sensing and lots of feedback, you can get more power with premium fuel. 93 octane.
 
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