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Yes independent Ford mechanic. Not a Ford dealer.

"Relearn" - watch the video. Don't know if this is actually necessary or it will happen anyway just by driving. Appears it can also be done by the computer repair system tool used by mechanic.

The computer and the throttle body need to come back to speaking terms, so to speak. How the signal from the computer affects the throttle plate position, where the position is, how much air is actually let in to affect fuel-air ratio. (a lot of that is me guessing)

Before "drive by wire", electronic control of throttle, it was a cable pulled by the gas pedal that controlled the throttle plate.
Drive by wire is why these days you can get delays between when you press the pedal and when the car accelerates. Like the delay on digital cameras between pressing the button and when it takes the picture.

I don't really know all that much about this stuff, but here's dome badics.
Likely your brain is crammed full of acronyms. Here's a few more:
OBD: onboard diagnostic
OBD Port is the plug you connect to for access to the system.
OBDII is used on vehicles since 1996
Thosee OBD readers you can buy for $20+ have very limited use. Mainly reading some codes. They can't get to the level to make system changes or advanced diagnostics.
Not the worse thing as you can make things inoperable screwing around with the vehicle's system.
IDS = Integrated Diagnostic system, Ford's proprietary system. It works on a software license of fixed time. You pay for the time period. Not cheap.

VCM = Vehicle Control Module.
They're using VCM2, VCMII, now. It's the hardware piece that plugs into the OBDII port left of steering wheel.
I think minimum for this piece is $800+. Then you need the software license to use it.
There are chinese copies and cracked software available. Some work.

Also, systems available from Snap-On and other makers of vehicle diagnostic tools. How exactly they are limited compared to IDS is beyond me. Functionally, probably close. None are cheap.

Forscan = Freeware, free software, developed by people to get around Ford's proprietary IDS system. (Forscan.org is the site. Very confusing btw. Remember, it's free or basically free)
It communicates with the vehicle system on a level way beyond simple OBD scanner tools. You can change things, get codes, watch signals from sensors. Possible to screw things up also. It works with $20-80 OBD port connectors.

There's also Foccus, a freeware program. Don't know much about it.

There's lots of modules to the car. Essentially small computers that communicste with the things that make the car work, operate windows, hvac, etc. Very few things are the old ststem of a powered wire to a device.
DTC- diagnostic trouble code
PID- parameter identifier. An address in in memory which has information
CAN- controller area network. Connects the modules
HSCAN- high speed CAN
MSCAN- medium speed CAN

Some modules:

HS CAN:
PCM - powertrain control module
BCM - body control module
APIM - accesory protocol interface module (wtf!) basically the Sync computer
SASM- steering angle sensor module
PSCM- power steering control module
ABSM- abs module
RCM- restraint control module
PAM- parking aid control module
OCS- occupant classification system module
MSCAN
FCIM- front controls interface module
PDM- passenger door module
DDM- drivers door module
HVAC - hvac module
IPC- instrument control module
ACM - audio control module

So one simple area where "dumb objects" meet the vehicle system is the battery. There are no chips in the battery to tell the vehicle what it is. So when you replace it, the car doesn't know it's new. This matters to the BMS, battery management system, because charge rates and how long say the radio is left on changes. I guess a sophisticated battery "tester" is too expensive for little benefit. Just tell the computer you changed the battery. Fair enough, but on the escape, at least 2014, 16 might be different, you need to plug into the obd port and use something like Forscan, vcm2, or other tool, to reset.
The car will still run fine, but the battery won't get it's proper charge rate.

This issue somewhat happens with everyday battery packs.. Remember all those lithium battery fires? The situation has been dealt with by the electronic controllers of the batteries. So that cordless drill bat has a controller in it. With a lot of them you can't just go in and solder new battery cells in if they go bad. Like you can with older nickel metal hydride, nimh, battery packs. Once a cell goes bad on these lithium packs, the controller calls it quits and that's it! Maybe one could hack it but you'd have to know a lot.

Complicated eh?
Amazing the car works at all. But this is why there's stuff like "relearning". The system is always monitoring, and when you turn the key on it checks that things are ok. Then when the engine starts, more checks. I guess that's when the throttle body if replaced starts calibrating with the computer. So the system is setup to fix itself in a limited way, you don't have to go and plug in values when stuff starts to wear for example.
But then stuff doesn't work...
Very well said!! Great information!!!
 

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JSnow,
I want to thank you for the ongoing help. I checked the wiring harness today and see no places it would be wearing through or a bad splice. I pulled the throttle body and cleaned it. It actually wasn't to bad but I see how it had "learned" to stay open a bit farther than it should be. I'm hoping it relearns to close a bit. Lol. My cam sensors have no oil around them like other people mention. I am going to put new spark plugs in it tomorrow, and put it back together. I already put a new battery in it last month trying to help this situation so I greatly appreciate the insight on the battery. now we are supposed to go to the dealer so they can tell our car it has a new battery...why isn't that option on the menu? Is oil change in the menu? I always change my own oil and I didn't want to take the time to figure out how to get her escape to not say "needs oil change". Is that something I need to use the scan tool for as well? Is it like the battery where I need to make sure I let the car know?

I have a tuner for my 2005 Excursion 6.0 power stroke. It can do all kinds of stuff and can read codes, modify parameters and what not. I love the display I chose so I can watch EOT, ECT, EGT (I added the sensor to my exhaust manifold), FICM voltage, battery voltage, boost and oil/gas(??) Pressure which is between 600 and 1500 psi. Is there something that I can purchase like this for my wife's car. Hell, everyone knows by the time the dash lights come on, it's to late. I have never had a tuner for a gas engine, just on a Diesel engine. But would this be something good to get for my wife's escape?

So far trouble shooting this I have;
Changed transmission fluid
Changed the battery
Changed oil
Cleaned the throttle body
Checked the cam sensors (is it possible to test the sensors? I did an Ohms test on the coils of my sons Baby Grands race car and found they were good, it ended up being the digital ignition needed replaced). I will probably Google it tomorrow, but if you know how to text the sensors off hand, please let me know. I would rather test them then buy new ones.
Checked the wiring for shorts
Hell, I even replaced the windshield wipers. Tomorrow if it doesn't work I think I'll ask the wife's boyfriend to buy her a new car..lol.lol
 

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Is oil change in the menu? I always change my own oil and I didn't want to take the time to figure out how to get her escape to not say "needs oil change". Is that something I need to use the scan tool for as well?
No special tools required. There's at least one thread on it in the forum, and the simple procedure in the owner's manual.
p. 222 of the downloaded 2013 manual.
"Resetting the Oil Life Monitoring System
Note:Reset the oil life monitoring only after an oil change.
1. Turn the ignition key to the on position. Do not start the engine. For vehicles
with push-button start, press and hold the start button for two seconds
without pressing the brake pedal. Do not attempt to start the engine.
2. Press both the accelerator and brake pedals at the same time.
3. Keep both pedals fully pressed.
4. After three seconds, the Service: Oil reset in prog. message will be
displayed.
5. After 25 seconds, the Service: Oil reset complete message will be displayed.
6. Release both the accelerator and brake pedals.
7. The Service: Oil reset complete message will no longer be displayed.
8. Rotate the key to the off position. For vehicles with push-button start, press
the start button to turn the vehicle off completely."
Download the 2013 Escape owner's manual here:
 

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No special tools required. There's at least one thread on it in the forum, and the simple procedure in the owner's manual.
p. 222 of the downloaded 2013 manual.
"Resetting the Oil Life Monitoring System
Note:Reset the oil life monitoring only after an oil change.
1. Turn the ignition key to the on position. Do not start the engine. For vehicles
with push-button start, press and hold the start button for two seconds
without pressing the brake pedal. Do not attempt to start the engine.
2. Press both the accelerator and brake pedals at the same time.
3. Keep both pedals fully pressed.
4. After three seconds, the Service: Oil reset in prog. message will be
displayed.
5. After 25 seconds, the Service: Oil reset complete message will be displayed.
6. Release both the accelerator and brake pedals.
7. The Service: Oil reset complete message will no longer be displayed.
8. Rotate the key to the off position. For vehicles with push-button start, press
the start button to turn the vehicle off completely."
Download the 2013 Escape owner's manual here:
Does this apply to your 2017 model too? I have never seen any message on mine when an oil change or service is due...
 

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Video to test your cam sensors without scan tools, multimeter is required. Hope it helps others.
1) 2000-2500 Ohms
2) Check black wire to ground with continuity test
3) make sure the sensor is producing voltage when metal is moved passed end of meter.
 

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Does this apply to your 2017 model too? I have never seen any message on mine when an oil change or service is due...
Yes, I have reset my OIl Life Remaining monitor myself after getting an oil change at a local garage.
 

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Yes, I have reset my OIl Life Remaining monitor myself after getting an oil change at a local garage.
Ok, thanks. I had no message but I tried the resetting procedure you describe after my last service and no reset message or anything else appeared but perhaps they reset it at the dealership.

Is there any way to check on the display when the next service is due or when the oil life 'expires'?
I don't do much mileage and get it serviced each December anyway but I could not find anything about this in my owner's manual.
 

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Is there any way to check on the display when the next service is due or when the oil life 'expires'?
A few people here have said that the reset procedure doesn't work for them and even their shop or dealer didn't get it to reset. There are many threads here on the subject.
and one member reported that Oil Life monitor was gone after getting a heated seat / steering wheel Technical Service Bulletin repair.
As for checking the oil life status, it can be done with an OBDII device and software.
I use an OBDLink MX and Torque Pro software on my cell phone , with a user added PID definition to read the oil life remaining.
 

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Jsnow, where did you go?
I THOUGHT (had high hopes) that when I put it all back together it would work, but it still has the same problem. I even changed the oil again while I was under it. The cam sensors had some crude on them when I pulled them out. Just a little on the end. The first one I just wiped right off but the second one I decided to take over to a magnet and the crude was magnetic. I really don't even want to mention this because I will feel people think there is metal in the engine, (which there is) but I don't think it's any different than a machine having a magnetic drain plug and the tiny bit that's on it when it's removed. I was actually thinking "that may have been the problem since the auto zone scan tool said cam sensor and they had a little bit of crude on them.

At this point I'm in the same position that I was. Can someone other than Ford do the reprogramming you mentioned before. Besides relearning the throttle body and doing those reprogramming steps you mentioned, I don't know what else to do other than get into the transmission.

Any suggestions?

As of today it has:
New oil and filter (today)
New air filter (today)
Told the system the oil was changed
New battery, have not told the system.
Checked and cleaned cam sensors
Checked and cleaned throttle body
New
Looked for wiring issues.

The problem is still precisely like it was. It starts and runs fine, throttle's fine, but when put into gear, it stalls. For a moment I could put it into gear and it would almost stall, but kept itself running. I sat there a few minutes going from N to D to N to R to N to D and over and over. Almost stalling every shift but didn't. I went back to P and then it wouldn't ever let me shift it into gear without stalling. I tried over and over. Could the throttle body be bad? Could the cam sensors be bad although they test good? Or do you think it's a transmission problem or even the programming?

I'm clueless at this point.
 

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Well we know cars run better after:
1) The car wash
2) Changing the oil
3) Changing the air filter
4) A new battery (once it starts, it has less effect than 1,2,3)

* Changing trans fluid. A grey area as some report it gets worse! May be due to flushing, but that’s a multi page who knows.

But, for this prob, none of those matter. Battery reset doesn’t matter at all. I don’t think fluids have anything to do with this as long as the tranny isn’t grossly overfilled.

Wow, it really sounds like a vacuum leak. But, that could be old thinking. It doesn’t exactly sound like the common intermittent throttle body failure, but that doesn’t exonerate the throttle body either.
As a down and dirty desperado check, you could disconnect the intake from the throttle body and watch it as someone puts it in gear with the brake on. See how it moves or not. Prob is, you’ve got no baseline of normal. Your bypassing the turbo also, but if it’s just at idle it shouldn’t be bad. It might set some codes though, which could confuse things.

I’d give it a look see though.
You really could use a workshop manual.

But.... what you really need to see is what the car is saying about itself! You need to get the codes or lack there of. Then you’ve got something concrete to go on. Even if some of the codes are false intel it can still tell people things.
Plus, I think you could watch the throttle plate angle with the software. Or at least what it thinks it is from the shaft sensor.

This means Forscan.
You’ll need a windows laptop. Can be pretty much a turd. It’ll run on windows 7. Even windows 2000. It runs on windows 10. Won’t run on mac unless you use a windows emulator. (There’s a lite version for ios but then you’d need a bluetooth unit of below)
Runs on: Windows 2000/XP/Vista/7/8/8.1/10 (COM, USB, Bluetooth and WiFi adapters)

Get this one, (standby for annoying nomenclature), ELM327 adapter. The one below is known to work. (Gag me with a spoon this whole business of original chips and clone chips and chinese and some work, some don’t. If you start reading about this stuff your head will explode)

OHP ELMconfig OBD2 Scan Tool
With HS Can/MS Can switch $30


OHP’s website:

Go here, read this:
Go here, https://www.forscan.org/download.html
download:
FORScan version 2.3.26 beta for Windows - free

(You can join the forum and ask for the 60 day extended license also if you want. Allows key programming, maybe, and a couple other things. Trying to keep it simple for now though)

That adapter should come with instructions to download the drivers Windows needs to run it.
If it doesn’t, I used this page:


Check out this brief tutorial on google docs:

Note, “Key On” to use Forscan means the stop just before starting, the second position. That’s with a key ignition. Heh, haven’t used with keyless. I guess it’s just pressing the button without foot on brake. (Anybody confirm?)

Just a warning, though your not going to get into changing values yet. If voltage drops too low, (11V I think), while programming, it can really screw things up. Like whatever module you’re working on is dead. So use a charger.
For now, shouldn’t matter just scanning.

Forscan has a demo function, you can run that and watch some stuff even not connected to car.

Oh, the OBD port is left of steering column under a plastic hatch. You’ll see an area to pull open.

I’m sure I’m forgetting something basic, but give it a go!

Basic forscan vid: there's others, all annoying in one way or another. Note your connector has the hs/ms can switch, so the babbling on that is irrelevant.


Workshop Manual! Seriously, should help.

Pdf download. Could have on ipad etc with forscan on lap top:

Read centex on manuals:

Cheers!
 

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Thank you Jsnow, as always very informative and helpful. For anyone else following this trying to get to the bottom of it. I do believe it is my throttle body. Somewhere (I read and watch to much every day trying to resolve this) I saw that Ford has put out "something" stating they know the throttle body is an issue and if you open it up and see a little bit of oil in it, they (Ford) contributes that to the bad throttle body. (Let me look, I remember the YouTube video).


Actually I think that is the video that talks about the transmission filter and the need to change the fluids regularly. Ahhhh I can't find the one I'm looking for. (Hmm) found it.

It's 5:20 seconds in this video


So after looking for throttle bodies I thought why not get one that is an improvement instead of the same BS and started looking at racing parts. Then found some videos, then a site that sells a bigger throttle body for $600 and then watching that video in the comments section someone said why not use the throttle body off of a mustang (which is a few mm bigger) and then someone asked in the comments "does it bolt up directly and then someone said yada yada makes a kit that they sell for $200 INCLUDING the new throttle body and I was excited seeing the price as some of these throttle bodies are expensive. Ford quoted me $400 and some AutoZone/aftermarket ones I have read not to use.
https://damondmotorsports.com is the company. I called them, they said we don't know if it works on the escape but we know it works on the 2.0 turbo Eco Boost. (I guess people aren't turning their Escapes into race cars just yet. They are sending it two day mail so I will update this weekend.

I also ordered the scan tool Jsnow mentioned and educating myself on that system as well. So for all the current owners out there wanting to suit up with your old Special Ops buddies and go pay a visit to Fords board of directors, I'll get to the bottom of this for you.

What I have learned is (IMO) is Ford in NOT your friend. (Watch the series "Cars that built America" and you will have some insight into Ford".) After dealing with my 2005 Ford Excursion with the 6.0 Power Stroke engine (Ford partnered with International while development of the engine. The engineers from international told them the Head Stud would stretch and cause issues and they also said locating the oil cooler where it is located would be a problem, Ford decided to move forward with the design and ignore International's engineers. Knowing it would cause many visits to the Ford Dealer for parts and service. ) And after dealing with this Escape (I should of known better as my mother gave me her 2009 escape due to transmission shutter) I have come to the conclusion Ford's engineers design stuff to be problematic or at least make conscious decisions to not fix faulty parts and use sub quality parts as long as they know those parts will make it through the warranty period.

Every tech online in forums and on YouTube will say Ford's statement of not changing the transmission fluid on the car because the life of the car is considered 150,000 miles and the fluid will last that long is Ludacris. Change your transmission fluid after the first 10,000 miles to get the gunk that comes off the torque converter during the break in period removed from the fluid. It can cause the transmission filter to clog, especially on 2013-2014 Escapes as those had a different type of filter then those being used on the newer Escapes.

One YouTuber that has been rebuilding transmissions for 20 years says that Ford's transmission on the Escape isn't bad as long as the transmission fluid is changed regularly. He recommended every 30,000 miles. Remember, once your transmission fluid filter is clogged, there is no quick fix. Ford's "expert engineers" decided to have non external filter, just an internal filter inside the transmission.

I'll keep everyone updated. I know some of you out their are going insane like I am trying to fix this.
 

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Should be interesting. It’ll definitely need a relearn.
You’re not gaining anything beyond a stock Ford on the, it doesn’t work front, though. Unless they’re changing anything about the electronics or shaft sensor. Pretty sure they don’t or it would be $4-600.

@escape05xls had or has a bored out throttle body.
 

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Lost me a bit on that one Snow, but if you are saying I'm not gaining anything horse power wise, I understand. He said unless I get some tunes and a bigger turbo, then it's minor at best.
 

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Just saying that it's the same throttle body electronics. So subject to the same issues as a stock Ford part.
The bore and throttle plate are just bigger.
I guess you get the full effect with other mods like tuning change and exhaust.
 

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JSnow,
I'm lost. I have replaced the new throttle body and no luck. 100% the same problem exists. The forscan shows only 1 dtc which is the ambient air temperature. I have ran every single test that forscan has to offer. No codes other than the one I mentioned. (I maybe doing something wrong)

The car will go into gear without dying if the car is cold. But once the car warms up, it will not stay running once it shifts into gear. Any suggestions? The only thing that I haven't done is to use some of the files in the Configuration and Programming. I was thinking about doing the "PCM Transmission Characterization Update" but after reading the pop up, I decided not to do it.

Any thoughts?
 

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Sorry, haven't been on for awhile. I think you're going to have to get someone to diagnose it. Ideally they'd have the Ford IDS system lease. But there's others that would work. Start enquiring and see what you can find. The F-150 sites have a lot of members and may know a shop.
 

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Thank you, I have put new temperature sensor and cam sensors. I think it's the lock up solenoid. Well someone else thinks that. They said if no codes are present the manual says to change the solenoid. So that's my next step.
 

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My 2015 escape titanium Ecoboost stalls while driving. Happened twice on a highway and once while driving only 30 miles an hour on a parkway. The car suddenly runs rough will not accelerate, does nothing when I give it gas. I shut the car off and restart it runs fine. I've already taken it to a dealership they can't find any codes so they went ahead and replaced a purse valve and something else that still did not resolve the problem. I already paid for this and I'm taking it back to the dealership today. I don't know what to do.
 

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Please let us know if the dealership was able to resolve your problem? :)
 
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