Very well said!! Great information!!!Yes independent Ford mechanic. Not a Ford dealer.
"Relearn" - watch the video. Don't know if this is actually necessary or it will happen anyway just by driving. Appears it can also be done by the computer repair system tool used by mechanic.
The computer and the throttle body need to come back to speaking terms, so to speak. How the signal from the computer affects the throttle plate position, where the position is, how much air is actually let in to affect fuel-air ratio. (a lot of that is me guessing)
Before "drive by wire", electronic control of throttle, it was a cable pulled by the gas pedal that controlled the throttle plate.
Drive by wire is why these days you can get delays between when you press the pedal and when the car accelerates. Like the delay on digital cameras between pressing the button and when it takes the picture.
I don't really know all that much about this stuff, but here's dome badics.
Likely your brain is crammed full of acronyms. Here's a few more:
OBD: onboard diagnostic
OBD Port is the plug you connect to for access to the system.
OBDII is used on vehicles since 1996
Thosee OBD readers you can buy for $20+ have very limited use. Mainly reading some codes. They can't get to the level to make system changes or advanced diagnostics.
Not the worse thing as you can make things inoperable screwing around with the vehicle's system.
IDS = Integrated Diagnostic system, Ford's proprietary system. It works on a software license of fixed time. You pay for the time period. Not cheap.
VCM = Vehicle Control Module.
They're using VCM2, VCMII, now. It's the hardware piece that plugs into the OBDII port left of steering wheel.
I think minimum for this piece is $800+. Then you need the software license to use it.
There are chinese copies and cracked software available. Some work.
Also, systems available from Snap-On and other makers of vehicle diagnostic tools. How exactly they are limited compared to IDS is beyond me. Functionally, probably close. None are cheap.
Forscan = Freeware, free software, developed by people to get around Ford's proprietary IDS system. (Forscan.org is the site. Very confusing btw. Remember, it's free or basically free)
It communicates with the vehicle system on a level way beyond simple OBD scanner tools. You can change things, get codes, watch signals from sensors. Possible to screw things up also. It works with $20-80 OBD port connectors.
There's also Foccus, a freeware program. Don't know much about it.
There's lots of modules to the car. Essentially small computers that communicste with the things that make the car work, operate windows, hvac, etc. Very few things are the old ststem of a powered wire to a device.
DTC- diagnostic trouble code
PID- parameter identifier. An address in in memory which has information
CAN- controller area network. Connects the modules
HSCAN- high speed CAN
MSCAN- medium speed CAN
PCM - powertrain control module
BCM - body control module
APIM - accesory protocol interface module (wtf!) basically the Sync computer
SASM- steering angle sensor module
PSCM- power steering control module
ABSM- abs module
RCM- restraint control module
PAM- parking aid control module
OCS- occupant classification system module
FCIM- front controls interface module
PDM- passenger door module
DDM- drivers door module
HVAC - hvac module
IPC- instrument control module
ACM - audio control module
So one simple area where "dumb objects" meet the vehicle system is the battery. There are no chips in the battery to tell the vehicle what it is. So when you replace it, the car doesn't know it's new. This matters to the BMS, battery management system, because charge rates and how long say the radio is left on changes. I guess a sophisticated battery "tester" is too expensive for little benefit. Just tell the computer you changed the battery. Fair enough, but on the escape, at least 2014, 16 might be different, you need to plug into the obd port and use something like Forscan, vcm2, or other tool, to reset.
The car will still run fine, but the battery won't get it's proper charge rate.
This issue somewhat happens with everyday battery packs.. Remember all those lithium battery fires? The situation has been dealt with by the electronic controllers of the batteries. So that cordless drill bat has a controller in it. With a lot of them you can't just go in and solder new battery cells in if they go bad. Like you can with older nickel metal hydride, nimh, battery packs. Once a cell goes bad on these lithium packs, the controller calls it quits and that's it! Maybe one could hack it but you'd have to know a lot.
Amazing the car works at all. But this is why there's stuff like "relearning". The system is always monitoring, and when you turn the key on it checks that things are ok. Then when the engine starts, more checks. I guess that's when the throttle body if replaced starts calibrating with the computer. So the system is setup to fix itself in a limited way, you don't have to go and plug in values when stuff starts to wear for example.
But then stuff doesn't work...