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2014 Ford escape AWD titanium
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
It's the rod from the vacuum actuator to the wastegate. The arm from the rod to the actual flapper for the wastegate has worn down enough there's too much slack and the wastegate is flapping open and closed now I'm not losing enough boost for my ecu to notice yet but I'm sure it's gonna start soon. I'll try to make a how to when I finally tackle it. But it's gonna be a pain looks like I'll be removing a lot of braces and maybe getting into mounts and possible the k member we'll see. But if you have a similar rattle have someone rev ur car and get as close to ur turbo as you can and you should be able to hear it, but it's not super loud when it's just reving sitting still. Also I thought I might be able to do some kind of Jimmy rig welding it or something but it doesn't look like there's any way to get to it without pulling everything out of the way and if I'm going to do all that I'm going to do it right and I might even just replace the whole turbo if I can find a good cheap used one I wish there was aftermarket bigger turbos that weren't so expensive maybe I'll find a way to Jimmy rig in an aftermarket turbo with some adapter, maybe just buy full races adapter and just try to run a normal style cheaper turbo Nancy if I can get the exhaust V-Band to fit up to it. I got a nice one sitting in my room that was supposed to go on a mustang but it's probably too big.
 

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2014 Ford escape AWD titanium
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
I've been updating this on another post but basically all I did to fix this was I tightened up the nuts to take the slop out of the arm on the way skate actuator rod.

It's been a pain because I wasn't able to just take the turbine housing out like I thought the housing is sealed together to the inner part just so completely tight You basically have to take a hammer to take it off

Other fun facts I found the v-band connecting the turbine housing to the exhaust is a total pain to get back on because you can only get one arm in there at a time to do it It's unless you have a buddy open from the other side top or bottom It's basically I've wasted 30 minutes already trying to get it back on

also idiotic Ford put two studs on the bottom of the cat to hold the bottom of the cat to the frame instead of doing something normal and so to take them off you have to take off this other bracket with two nuts that's really hard to get to just to try and keep it short and it sucks

I'm also really disappointed because I found out that this problem with the wastegates getting loose is been happening for decades really and they've never fixed it there's actually a repair kit on eBay for beamers that use the KO3 KO4 turbos I'm sure in a couple years they'll make one for ours but they use pressed in stuff so you almost have to go to machine shop to get them taken out to replace them

I'm sure there's a bunch of other complaints I do want to say I do love this car when it's working it is an amazing car and this is the first problem I've really had with it besides Ford's saying that the PTU unit's fluid lasts forever which it definitely doesn't or no I think that's to change every 50,000 really should do it every 30 it's the rear differential that they say to never change and that's definitely not right mine was disgusting and you should definitely change that I would say every 30,000 and it's a pain to get to because there's no drain plug but I just used a little syringe thing to suck it out

Anyways that's it I'm just trying to put it back together again but everything's so hard to reach that it's a total pain in the butt So I hope that this doesn't happen to your turbos even though it pretty much definitely will I just hope it takes a lot longer It seems like on most people happens around 100,000 mi and well it does seem like mechanics are realizing you don't have to replace the whole turbo You can just take it to a machine shop to get it fixed Right now it seems like most repairmen are just replacing the whole turbo and paying 600 to 1200 bucks when it should be more like 100 or 200 so if you do take it in to get it fixed tell them you don't want the turbo replaced you know unless the turbo is having problems though I doubt it seems like these things are lasting long time and they should So I would just ask them to fix the actuators instead of replace the whole turbo because these turbo should last a long long time longer than 100,000 mi and they seem to be.
 

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t's the rear differential that they say to never change and that's definitely not right mine was disgusting and you should definitely change that I would say every 30,000 and it's a pain to get to because there's no drain plug but I just used a little syringe thing to suck it out
one of the consolation prizes for not getting the awd.
basically all I did to fix this was I tightened up the nuts to take the slop out of the arm on the way skate actuator rod
good to know and i hope i remember this if mine ever does this.
 

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2016 Kuga Titanium 2.0l EcoBoost
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With the BMW's and waste gate rattles- it happens on the 6 cylinder N54 engines (IIRC) with the dual turbos (and they're Mitsubishi turbos.) I was looking into buying a 135i or 1M.

Has it actually fixed the problem? I was chasing a suspension related rattle on a brand new car and gave up in the end. I fixed a lot of rattles, but never the one I could hear in the cabin.
 

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2014 Ford escape AWD titanium
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Discussion Starter #6
With the BMW's and waste gate rattles- it happens on the 6 cylinder N54 engines (IIRC) with the dual turbos (and they're Mitsubishi turbos.) I was looking into buying a 135i or 1M.

Has it actually fixed the problem? I was chasing a suspension related rattle on a brand new car and gave up in the end. I fixed a lot of rattles, but never the one I could hear in the cabin.
What I'm doing right now is just adjusting the wastegate actuator to take the slop out I'm going to see how that works out also eventually I'm going to take everything off and do the whole fix on the turbo and put videos up about what I did but basically when I took the slop out it did seem to fix it but then the clip and the nuts somehow came off after only about 5 or 10 minutes of driving so I had to go to Lowe's and buy new nuts which by the way they're M6.1 and I made a new clip out of an old t bolt clamp I just cut a section of the metal and folded the ends and then used a dremel to cut out a slot on each side so it could slip over the bolts I will attach a picture of it here and I put an extra nut on there and I put a decent amount of blue loctite on I have two bolts on the driver's side of the wastegate actuator instead of one cuz these are a little thinner and I'm hoping with two bolts it'll hold it on and not fall off as easy but hopefully I can let you all know how that works in a couple days after I've driven it around and see if it stays on and then hopefully before school starts again I can actually do the whole turbo take off and get a machine shop to take all of the slop out and fix the wastegate actuator for hopefully at least another hundred thousand miles if not more. I meant for this to all be done much faster and sooner but I've been having some issues with some other unrelated stuff so.
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