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Keep trying to connect/ write with FoCCCus - even if you can't turn the ignition on (eg. if you've got push button "START".) I was able to connect and FoCCCus eventually wrote everything required (even though the entire dash was dead and I wasn't able to turn the ignition to "ON".)

It's not a good situation to be in. Are you using a modified ELM327 interface?
After freaking out for a while I did try it again thinking, why not, and it worked. I’ll have to work up my nerves to try it again. I am using an ELM327.
 

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I'm glad it worked out. I had the same sinking feeling.... thinking I'd just turned the near new car into a massive paperweight.

Get an OBDLink MX Bluetooth interface. It will cost a bit more but they're highly recommended on all Ford forums. I bought one after my little incident and haven't had FoCCCus fail since then.
 

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Kinda pisses me off that Canadian cars (Ford and others) don't offer features that the UK cars get.... Heated windshield, PTC heater, rear fog lights. MOT simply follows/copies DOT standards and regulations, with few exceptions. DRL being one...
Would be nice to retro fit some of these options! + terrain response control, air quality sensor....
 

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I'm glad it worked out. I had the same sinking feeling.... thinking I'd just turned the near new car into a massive paperweight.

Get an OBDLink MX Bluetooth interface. It will cost a bit more but they're highly recommended on all Ford forums. I bought one after my little incident and haven't had FoCCCus fail since then.
I think it could be due to the level of the battery honestly.

I disabled MyKey on mine and the first try with an ELM switch type stopped at like 20% It didn't lock me out, I was able to maintain normal mode somehow, but the next time I tried I let the FE run for a bit with nothing on inside or out, immediately after turning it off I plugged in the OBD and tried Focccus again and it went smooth without a hitch.

These FE's use a MASSIVE amount of amps to just sit with the ignition on. The other day I was trying to do some OBD stuff via my WIFI OBD reader and did it for over 10 mins, I started getting low voltage DTC's. I went out and sure enough, it wouldn't turn over. I left it for an hour or so and luckily got it to snap over and crank. I would be willing to bet that a lot of the ELM not working is probably something to do with voltage glitches, which the MX might be able to tug away through, the ELM freaks out a bit and glitches, causing the system to crash. This happened to me once when flashing my old 2012 Mustang GT. The programmer glitched because I'd been playing with settings with the ignition on for a half our, then decided to do a wipe and write...... Almost bricked the car and it was under warranty about 6 months old, scared the crap out of me.

Anyways, I really think it's the voltage in the car dipping. Could be that the FE's don't have enough reservoir capacitors in it's system and allows the voltage to skip in places. I can tell you from being an elec tech that you can save a pile of cash not using auto grade caps in as many places as possible..... I'd be willing to bet someone could rig up some RC's along the OBD power feed and it'd never glitch again. I digress, just thought I'd put that out there.
 

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I always have my vehicle's battery hooked up to a 10 Amp charger when doing anything that involves writing through the OBD2 port. I'd hate to think what could go wrong if the battery does discharge too far when writing to the vehicle.
 

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I think it could be due to the level of the battery honestly.

I disabled MyKey on mine and the first try with an ELM switch type stopped at like 20% It didn't lock me out, I was able to maintain normal mode somehow, but the next time I tried I let the FE run for a bit with nothing on inside or out, immediately after turning it off I plugged in the OBD and tried Focccus again and it went smooth without a hitch.

These FE's use a MASSIVE amount of amps to just sit with the ignition on. The other day I was trying to do some OBD stuff via my WIFI OBD reader and did it for over 10 mins, I started getting low voltage DTC's. I went out and sure enough, it wouldn't turn over. I left it for an hour or so and luckily got it to snap over and crank. I would be willing to bet that a lot of the ELM not working is probably something to do with voltage glitches, which the MX might be able to tug away through, the ELM freaks out a bit and glitches, causing the system to crash. This happened to me once when flashing my old 2012 Mustang GT. The programmer glitched because I'd been playing with settings with the ignition on for a half our, then decided to do a wipe and write...... Almost bricked the car and it was under warranty about 6 months old, scared the crap out of me.

Anyways, I really think it's the voltage in the car dipping. Could be that the FE's don't have enough reservoir capacitors in it's system and allows the voltage to skip in places. I can tell you from being an elec tech that you can save a pile of cash not using auto grade caps in as many places as possible..... I'd be willing to bet someone could rig up some RC's along the OBD power feed and it'd never glitch again. I digress, just thought I'd put that out there.
How old is your battery??
 

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Hi everyone, I'm new to the forum with my new (used lol) Escape 2013 SEL 2.0. So far really love this SUV!

I'm having a problem with the fog lights, I did everything using Focccus to enable the fog lights and global open / close, followed with Forscan. Up to here everything is fine. Global open / close is working, and the fog lights always on are KIND OF working. I say kind of working because they do stay on with the hi beam, they do turn on and off when I put a light onto the light sensor, but they turn off and not back on after a few minutes after I shut the engine, get out, and lock the doors.

Did someone already had this bug while trying to activate the fog lights?

Thank you!
Hello again!
Does somebody already had this problem?

Thank you!
 

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Hello again!
Does somebody already had this problem?

Thank you!
Can you rephrase your original question? It doesn't make a lot of sense to me as to what the problem is?? Are you saying the "Bambi Mode" setting/ change isn't working after you shutdown/ lock/ unlock and restart?

I say kind of working because they do stay on with the hi beam, they do turn on and off when I put a light onto the light sensor, but they turn off and not back on after a few minutes after I shut the engine, get out, and lock the doors.
 

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How old is your battery??
Brand new now. Napa btw has a killer replacement policy, I highly recommend buying batteries from Napa.

So with a brand new battery, the electronics killed it in 15 mins or so..... I've been told this by a few mechanics too, to never leave the key on and that even if a battery still cranks the car, it may not be supplying enough amps to the whole system which can cause glitches and bugs.

So far when I tap in using Focccus, I crank up my FE for about 5 mins with everything shut off, then run the program and I will usually take my saved file, make whatever changes I want that way I don't need to read I can just hit write and its done. It doesn't take much time before those little power dips/spikes start messing with the OBD port. YMMV.
 
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