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I have the same issue with the soleniod. I plan on changing it out myself. Any tips and or photos would be appreciated
Besides the solenoid valve (Part # BM5Z-18495-C) and standard tools (screwdriver, wrench, etc.), you'll need.

1. Coolant. I bought "Ford Fluid VC-3DIL-B Orange Pre-Diluted Antifreeze/Coolant - 1 Gallon" from Amazon but they don't sell it anymore. You can buy the concentrated one but the pre-diluted one is more convenient for me. I'm sure there are other places that sells it. 1 gallon is more than enough.
2. Small "Straight Jaw Tongue and Groove Pliers" I bought it from local Home Depot.
3. A container to catch the coolant under the car. Once you remove the hose, the coolant will come out.

Now, to replace the valve.

1. Let the engine cool down, if you drive it previously.
2. Put the container under the car to catch the coolant.
3. Pull the engine cover out. I've circled the valve with red circle in the picture.
4. Remove the harness and surrounding parts to get access.
5. The hardest part for me is removing the clip that hold the hose (blue circle in the picture). Use the small straight jaw pliers I mentioned above. The space is really tight. And for me, the clip and hose won't come out easily. Be patient.
6. Remove the 4 screws to remove the valve.
7. Put the new part in and put everything back.
8. Follow the coolant refill procedure. Centex has an excellent detailed post here.
9. Properly dispose the coolant according to your local rules/regulations.

I don't remember if I need to clear the DTC code or not. I think the check engine light will clear itself once the valve is working properly. If not, use your favorite OBD tool to clear the code. Good luck.
 

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Great @Tanat! Thanks for the step by step- need to do this one myself and would love to give you kudos in a YouTube video demo if that's cool?

Thanks again!

-Rahrena

Besides the solenoid valve (Part # BM5Z-18495-C) and standard tools (screwdriver, wrench, etc.), you'll need.

1. Coolant. I bought "Ford Fluid VC-3DIL-B Orange Pre-Diluted Antifreeze/Coolant - 1 Gallon" from Amazon but they don't sell it anymore. You can buy the concentrated one but the pre-diluted one is more convenient for me. I'm sure there are other places that sells it. 1 gallon is more than enough.
2. Small "Straight Jaw Tongue and Groove Pliers" I bought it from local Home Depot.
3. A container to catch the coolant under the car. Once you remove the hose, the coolant will come out.

Now, to replace the valve.

1. Let the engine cool down, if you drive it previously.
2. Put the container under the car to catch the coolant.
3. Pull the engine cover out. I've circled the valve with red circle in the picture.
4. Remove the harness and surrounding parts to get access.
5. The hardest part for me is removing the clip that hold the hose (blue circle in the picture). Use the small straight jaw pliers I mentioned above. The space is really tight. And for me, the clip and hose won't come out easily. Be patient.
6. Remove the 4 screws to remove the valve.
7. Put the new part in and put everything back.
8. Follow the coolant refill procedure. Centex has an excellent detailed post here.
9. Properly dispose the coolant according to your local rules/regulations.

I don't remember if I need to clear the DTC code or not. I think the check engine light will clear itself once the valve is working properly. If not, use your favorite OBD tool to clear the code. Good luck.
 

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2013 Escape error P26 B7

My wife drives a 2013 Escape, build date 2013/08/09.
The engine light just came on and after going to AutoZone, Advance Auto and Oriely's Auto to determine what it is I have and
error code of P26 B7, Is this a recall? is this something I can do at home if not a recall?
Thanks for the help.
 

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My wife drives a 2013 Escape, build date 2013/08/09.
The engine light just came on and after going to AutoZone, Advance Auto and Oriely's Auto to determine what it is I have and
error code of P26 B7, Is this a recall? is this something I can do at home if not a recall?
Thanks for the help.
Welcome to the forum. I merged your thread with this existing thread on the same error code. Have a look though the other posts for help with our issue.
 

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Hi, I just had this valve changed on my car.
The mechanic gave me the old one and I was curious so I took it apart completely.
I found rust, grime and a non-conducting solenoid which would explain my issues very well. Valve was off my FE 2014 so 4 years old.
Enjoy the pictures!

- valve body + separator
- solenoid piston + guide & seal + slider
- solenoid coil (blue), solenoid housing (thing with long spring)
- solenoid housing bottom zoom
- solenoid coil zoom
- piston zoom - note rust and grime
- piston bottom - the spring slides between white plastic core and piston wall
- coil resistance: 6MOhm.
- solenoid housing seal

The whole thing is bathed in engine coolant. Mine actually mechanically got stuck when I pushed on the piston. I think the spring jammed in the piston bottom with all that grime. This tells me the valve was stuck closed for quite a while which makes sense: I get the intermittent CEL for about 1.5 years now. Ford said it is the fuel tank air vent, blamed the rustproofing and quoted me a happy $450 which I refused so that's why I didn't worry much. Silly me for not confirming their claims at that time.

New solenoid is ~10ohms, measured before installing. Do NOT try to test the solenoid if you don't know the polarity, I think it has a protection diode in it which will die a horrible death if you apply 12V the wrong way. Also coil/diode is not serviceable since it's molded inside the plastic.

Changing the solenoid was all in all $60 parts off Amazon + $80 labor at my mechanic.

Cheers!
 

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Just replaced the valve last night

Hi guys.
Thanks to everyone who shared how to DIY this.
I did it myself last night, I'm no mechanic so it took my an hour lol. The clamp was blocking my way to remove the 8mm bolt to the right, so it took me a while to pull it out and put it back in.
I lost around 20oz of coolant, refilled it 1in above the Min line when engine was cold, but noticed a coolant level drop after some driving. I did not see any visible leaks, is this just the car sucking coolant into the system?

My engine light turned itself off immediately after the replacement, but I can still see the code stored in the PCM, I will drive it for a few days and see if it will go away.

Thanks again!
 

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Hi guys.
Thanks to everyone who shared how to DIY this.
I did it myself last night, I'm no mechanic so it took my an hour lol. The clamp was blocking my way to remove the 8mm bolt to the right, so it took me a while to pull it out and put it back in.
I lost around 20oz of coolant, refilled it 1in above the Min line when engine was cold, but noticed a coolant level drop after some driving. I did not see any visible leaks, is this just the car sucking coolant into the system?

My engine light turned itself off immediately after the replacement, but I can still see the code stored in the PCM, I will drive it for a few days and see if it will go away.

Thanks again!
If you could could you post a description of the condition of the valve that you removed? There is a you Tube video of the replacement of this particular valve. In that video, a piece of debris was actually preventing the valve from closing which the author surmises led to the code. I would be interested if your valve exhibited the same condition.
 

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Does anyone know if this problem/part is covered under a Ford sponsored ESP? It failed on my 2015 FE last month 😢
 

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I purchased a pre-owned 2013 Escape SEL in the summer of 2016. Within the year, I had to bring it to a Ford dealer who performed maintenance on an issue of coolant loss. If memory serves me correctly, it was done under a recall situation. A few days ago, my check engine light came on. According to Autozone, the error code is P26B7 - Replace Coolant Bypass Valve. Are these 2 things unrelated? Want to educate myself before I go back to the dealer.
Thank you!

2013 Ford Escape SEL 93500 miles
 

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I purchased a pre-owned 2013 Escape SEL in the summer of 2016. Within the year, I had to bring it to a Ford dealer who performed maintenance on an issue of coolant loss. If memory serves me correctly, it was done under a recall situation. A few days ago, my check engine light came on. According to Autozone, the error code is P26B7 - Replace Coolant Bypass Valve. Are these 2 things unrelated? Want to educate myself before I go back to the dealer.
Thank you!

2013 Ford Escape SEL 93500 miles
I merged your thread with an existing thread on the same code. Have a look at the other posts for some help. In the future, a quick search would be a good idea.
 

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Hi All, big thanks to @Tanat above for the instructions to tackle this one at home with little worry- I started out trying to get the hose off the solenoid first, even using a hose clamp tool to have remote grab/pressure. Even if the clamp was loose, I still struggled hard core to get enough room to actually pull the hose off.

Therefore, I modified my procedure slightly, suggesting to remove the 8mm bolts FIRST, allow the coolant to drain, and then have the whole solenoid to wrap your hand around to pull off the hose once the clamp is expanded. It worked pretty well for me and wanted to share my experience here and the step by step.

For what it's worth, I used a 8mm socket, extension, and swivel to get to the bolts before removing the hose.

Thanks again @Tanat- put a shoutout to you in the description :) Video I did here if anybody's interested to see how it went:

 

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I feel like I have read elsewhere that after completing the replacement you have to take the vehicle to have the PCM reprogrammed. The gentleman at Autozone also advised me of this.

Figured I would check here since some of you have experience with this.
 
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