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2013 Escape SEL with about 57K miles. Both the front and the rear washers don't squirt. Not sure when this happened, whether both went out at the same time or not. For both the front and rear, when I activate the washers I can hear the pump working, but no fluid comes out. Looking in the engine compartment and on the garage floor, I see no evidence of fluid leaking out anywhere. I guess I haven't checked the rear headliner for leaks up there. It's so damned hard to get to the bottom of the washer fluid tank--I don't want to do exploratory surgery unless/until I know that I'll be able to fix it properly. Any ideas?
 

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Pardon how silly this may sound, but the washer bottle is full, correct? If so, has your vehicle been exposed to freezing temperatures for any extended period of time? If so, the washer fluid may be frozen and just need to be thawed out. Otherwise, have you checked to see if the spray nozzles are clogged?
 

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Thanks for the questions. Frozen--hah! I'm in San Diego. No, not frozen. I used a straight pin to try to remove salts or dirt from all of the nozzles, no effect. If I could access the tank and pumps it would be really easy to troubleshoot, but alas, it looks like a 2 hour job to get there. I'm wondering if the fact that both front and rear don't work, and might have gone out simultaneously, could be a key to the diagnosis? For example, if both pumps draw from the same outlet tube, then that could strongly suggest that the outlet tube is clogged. I guess I could try to look at the drawings of the part online, but they're pretty bad.
 

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Thanks for the questions. Frozen--hah! I'm in San Diego. No, not frozen. I used a straight pin to try to remove salts or dirt from all of the nozzles, no effect. If I could access the tank and pumps it would be really easy to troubleshoot, but alas, it looks like a 2 hour job to get there. I'm wondering if the fact that both front and rear don't work, and might have gone out simultaneously, could be a key to the diagnosis? For example, if both pumps draw from the same outlet tube, then that could strongly suggest that the outlet tube is clogged. I guess I could try to look at the drawings of the part online, but they're pretty bad.
Since you say you can hear the pump, that should eliminate most electrical possibilities (bad fuse, loose connection). Not being able to hear what you're hearing, maybe one of the supply tubes connecting to the pump got damaged, disconnected, or is otherwise leaking (hopefully in the engine bay) and the pump is just moving air? Just because you don't see anything on the floor, doesn't necessarily eliminate a leak, as the undercarriage engine cover can hide a lot. And if it's leaking while you're driving, there is the possibility that it is evaporating from the heat of the engine. Definitely check your headliner, but since both front and rear aren't working, I would doubt it's an interior leak.
 

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Thanks for the ideas. It definitely sounds like pumping air, or just an electrical motor running with no connection to a functioning impeller, for both front and back. I can do another test in the garage and carefully look for leaks/fluid in the engine bay, and I can monitor the fluid level as well. If I can eliminate a leak, then I suppose that points to a clogged common supply line to the two pumps? I wonder if I could get at that by siphoning the fluid out and doing something to clear it without having to go through the wheel well, e.g trying to run hot water through the line, or physically sticking a wire down the tank/line?
 

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2013 Escape SEL with about 57K miles. Both the front and the rear washers don't squirt. Not sure when this happened, whether both went out at the same time or not. For both the front and rear, when I activate the washers I can hear the pump working, but no fluid comes out. Looking in the engine compartment and on the garage floor, I see no evidence of fluid leaking out anywhere. I guess I haven't checked the rear headliner for leaks up there. It's so damned hard to get to the bottom of the washer fluid tank--I don't want to do exploratory surgery unless/until I know that I'll be able to fix it properly. Any ideas?
I ran into a problem with my old 2013 Escape. What happened is that one of the hoses came loose at the under hood position. This resulted in an "open hose" between the hood and the insulation which is easily removable. I noticed a lot of fluid where it was not supposed to be and no flow to the front winshield. I took the insulation off and immediately saw where the hose had disconnected. I fitted it back on and used some thin guage wire to insure it would not pop off again. That fixed my problem. May be worth a look anyway.
 

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Personally I would begin by removing one of the hoses from the nozzle under the hood and see if you get any water flow with the hose removed, if not I would remove the passenger inner fender liner and see what is going on. I can't see how you can passably do any real repair without accessing the pump. you can probably remove the front fasteners and pull it back far enough to get some access. My thought would be the impeller has either broken or come off the shaft??? Just a guess!!!

From my understanding of the system The washer motor is bi-directional it spins one way for the front washer and spins the opposite direction for the rear operation. There are actually two hoses that come off the bottom of the pump mounted in opposite direction to the pump housing. So if you here the motor in both front and rear commanded operation, the only common point is the actual motor or inlet to the motor, both of which will necessitate motor access.
 

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Thanks chucksbp and brouillr. Very interesting. A bi-directional pump would make sense given my symptoms..

Brouiller, how much did it cost? I think this might be one for the dealer to tackle.
 

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Thanks chucksbp and brouillr. Very interesting. A bi-directional pump would make sense given my symptoms..

Brouiller, how much did it cost? I think this might be one for the dealer to tackle.
SKU.....My local guy charged me around $120 or so. He had take the front wheel off to access the reservoir tank. But was an easy job. No need to take it to the dealer.
 

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It could be a clog somewhere. If it's not a loose hose or a leak, and seems to be a clog instead, close your wallet and hold your nose when you try this:

Pour white vinegar into the washer fluid reservoir (not full, just a bit at a time until it frees up, you don't want to use more than you need, because you don't want to smell vinegar forever, also best if there is little to no washer fluid in there, if you have a way of accomplishing that) and run the pump, taking breaks so as not to overheat it. Alternate between front and back. This has dissolved many clogs in windshield washer systems for me. Yes, it stinks for a bit. But it's cheaper and easy. Once it starts working, you can rinse it through with clean water (distilled or filtered may be best to avoid deposits. Don't fill it full, it'll take forever) then fill with washer fluid. Rinse the windshield area thoroughly to help expedite getting rid of the vinegar smell.
 

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I had the same problem form using instant windshield washer tablets that I purchased from Amazon. They never dissolved all the way and formed a jell that covered the WW pump intake screen. I went underneath and pulled the pump and gasket out cleaned then screen on the intake. Then I dumped a gallon of water into the reservoir to flush it and reinstalled the pump. Everything works fine now. Oh I also tossed the WW tablets in the trash.
 
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