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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have converted most of the exterior lights on my 2014 Titanium to LEDs. About a year ago I converted the rear turn signals, including adding resistors. The LED turn signals still look and work great. I am now ready to do the front turn signals, but I have a couple questions for anyone who who has worked in this area. I understand that I have to add resistors up front, too, but based on the write-ups and videos I have seen it looks like space is pretty tight up there. So, two questions:

1) In light of the fact that I will be installing resistors, is this a job for which I will need to remove the front wheels rather than working around them?

2) Is there space/a spot near the light sockets on which to mount a resistor?

Thanks!


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It kind of depends. Removing the splash guard (wheel well liner) and front wheels will definitely give you more room to work. And the resistor doesn't necessarily need to be installed directly at the socket. It can be further down the line.

The other factor is what physical size of resistor you're using. If its a thin film resistor (probably) the leads can be bent and the package will be relatively compact and you could put it inline with the wire, heat shrink and you're good to go. But if its a Thick film resistor you might want to move it further down the harness behind the bumper cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This is the resistor I used for the rear flashers. It gets really hot so it has to be mounted to metal.


It kind of depends. Removing the splash guard (wheel well liner) and front wheels will definitely give you more room to work. And the resistor doesn't necessarily need to be installed directly at the socket. It can be further down the line.



The other factor is what physical size of resistor you're using. If its a thin film resistor (probably) the leads can be bent and the package will be relatively compact and you could put it inline with the wire, heat shrink and you're good to go. But if its a Thick film resistor you might want to move it further down the harness behind the bumper cover.





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My suggestion would be here on or near the pinch weld. You can see the wire harness for the marker lamp. Run two wires down to the turn Signal lamp. Putting the resistor up high will make it easier to get at should you have to diagnose it or service it. I'm sure there would be metal spots underneath the front bumper cover, I just prefer having easy access to them over form. To each thier own.

Just make sure you don't hit the actual welds if your drilling. I would put a set of zipties, personally.


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You could mount them using heat sink adhesive paste- no need to drill then. Keep in mind if your already installed resistors for the rear draw enough current you might be able to get away without installing more for the front. (From the wiring diagrams I checked a while back all the indicator lights are are powered in parallel from a single source.)
 
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I thought ForScan could be used to turn the hyperflash off. Using resistors kind of defeats the benefit less of a current draw using LEDs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
To be honest, whether the resistors I mounted in back would be enough to prevent hyper flashing in front is actually the question I was originally planning to ask. But people catch so much grief on the boards for not searching for answers to their questions before posting that I decided to thoroughly search the question before posting. Consequently, I saw at least one post saying that resistors are required for all four flashers, front AND back. So now there are mixed messages on the boards!

Thanks for the suggestion re: the heat sink adhesive paste. The only thing I have ever used heat sink paste for is mounting a heat sink on a CPU. I will look into using it for mounting resistors in a vehicle.

You could mount them using heat sink adhesive paste- no need to drill then. Keep in mind if your already installed resistors for the rear draw enough current you might be able to get away without installing more for the front. (From the wiring diagrams I checked a while back all the indicator lights are are powered in parallel from a single source.)





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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If I’m not mistaken someone on the boards looked into this and determined that while the Focus has the necessary bank available for customization the Escape does not. I just recently picked up an OBDLink MX+ so I think I will check this out before undertaking the resistor install. Thanks for the suggestion.

I thought ForScan could be used to turn the hyperflash off. Using resistors kind of defeats the benefit less of a current draw using LEDs.





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I thought ForScan could be used to turn the hyperflash off. Using resistors kind of defeats the benefit less of a current draw using LEDs.

Yes, I posted a link in a thread on here a long time ago detailing where the F150 guys had got around it via ForScan. I haven't heard of anyone successfully achieving the same in an Escape / Kuga though.
 

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If I’m not mistaken someone on the boards looked into this and determined that while the Focus has the necessary bank available for customization the Escape does not. I just recently picked up an OBDLink MX+ so I think I will check this out before undertaking the resistor install. Thanks for the suggestion.








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Give it a go without additional resistors and see what happens. My rear LED's with no load resistors were only failing randomly- so I'm guessing I wouldn't have required much more current drawn to fix it. The error was something like "Indicator Intermittent Open Circuit ".
 

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Yes, I posted a link in a thread on here a long time ago detailing where the F150 guys had got around it via ForScan. I haven't heard of anyone successfully achieving the same in an Escape / Kuga though.
Ahh, not sure why some Ford can be programed and others not, I know the hardware is not exactly the same. I have a Flex and I know the Flex guys could turn it off as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
As an update - the front blinkers were swapped for LEDs today without resistors. So far, there have been no issues. I love the brighter amber turn signals - they’re so much easier to see from other vehicles.


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Your rear resistors look like they must be drawing enough current for both sets. :)


How hard was it to change them? The Kuga appears to have some sort of peg installed to prevent the bulbs being removed (from what I've read/ seen.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I actually didn’t swap the front blinkers myself - my FE was in the body shop this week to repair some rear-end damage from a fender bender and they were nice enough to swap the bulbs while they had it on the rack.

Your rear resistors look like they must be drawing enough current for both sets. :)


How hard was it to change them? The Kuga appears to have some sort of peg installed to prevent the bulbs being removed (from what I've read/ seen.)





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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Sorry for the delayed response. I didn’t have a problem mounting the resistors under tail light assemblies. I can share a picture tomorrow as my Escape is currently at the dealer getting a new BCM.
 
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