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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I went out to my 2020 Escape hybrid with 73,000 miles on it yesterday morning and the electronic liftgate wouldn’t open. I was able to open it manually so I could put something in the back. I closed the liftgate. But when I tried to open it again, I couldn’t open it at all. Then all the lights in the car went out, and the car wouldn’t start. AAA came out and jumped the car, and it started. I took it to the dealer, and they replaced the battery and said they programmed the modules. I drove it home and it seemed fine. But I just went out to put something in the back, and the light in the trunk went out faster than usual. I then went to put something in the front seat, and then saw a message on the screen that said “System off to save battery”. Does this mean the new battery is about to die, too? Why is this happening???
 

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If you do a search here you will find a lot of posts describing this issue and in many cases they replaced the standard 12v battery with a larger AGM type to solve the problem.
However Ford will not do this and you would have to incur the cost yourself sadly. :cry:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you do a search here you will find a lot of posts describing this issue and in many cases they replaced the standard 12v battery with a larger AGM type to solve the problem.
However Ford will not do this and you would have to incur the cost yourself sadly. :cry:
I'm not sure I understand what you said. The Ford dealership replaced my battery yesterday, but I have no idea what battery they used. Are you saying I need a larger AGM type instead of whatever they put in there, and that the dealership won't install that one?
 

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I am unsure about the 4G Escape but on the 3G, when a battery is almost dead, this very same message appears on the screen. If you replace the battery, the sensor displaying the message does not reset automatically. I had the same problem and found out that I had to reset the battery Monitoring Sensor (BMS) sensor.

Try this to see if it applies.

 

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I specifically asked if the sensors were reset, and he told me that some sensor was reset. I don't know what the name of the sensor is.
But still, can’t hurt to try. I did mine by myself. They may have not run the sequence correctly. I found another video.

Otherwise, go back to the dealer and unless your new battery is defective (it still can happen), it definitely looks like the BMS sensor.

 

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I'm not sure I understand what you said. The Ford dealership replaced my battery yesterday, but I have no idea what battery they used. Are you saying I need a larger AGM type instead of whatever they put in there, and that the dealership won't install that one?
yes...do a search here on the issue and you will understand what I am saying.
 

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Before I did anything else, I'd take it for a long ride, as I see two possible causes that should be checked- it's possible that the new battery came off the shelf with a low state of charge, and you didn't drive enough with the ICE running to charge it.

It's also possible that the alternator on the ICE is not charging an needs repair or replacement ( the EV battery bank and the 12V system battery are separate systems).
 

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If you do a search here you will find a lot of posts describing this issue and in many cases they replaced the standard 12v battery with a larger AGM type to solve the problem.
However Ford will not do this and you would have to incur the cost yourself sadly. :cry:
Do you mean that the battery installed is not powerful enough?
 

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It's possible to receive a new battery that's bad. It's happened to me over the course of my life more than once.
 

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It's possible to receive a new battery that's bad. It's happened to me over the course of my life more than once.
Happened to me too this year. Battery lasted a year. After one year the battery had burnt cells. Burnt cells are sometimes causing random problems and after a while you slowly realize that the battery is the culprit. In my case, the radio was resetting itself. Then a few weeks later, the car went completely dead. I would disconnect the battery and plug it back and it would resume working. It even took a while before my battery charger finally returned a bad battery light. I also had engine vibrations, caused in all likeliness by the A/C compressor causing voltage variations. Took the fancy tool to determine it was bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
An update on my battery issue. I was planning to go on a trip today, so I started to load up my car. I noticed right away that the light in the trunk was going out too quickly again. Sure enough, after about 5 more minutes I got the same “System off to save battery” message. I went back to the dealership, and they reset the BMS sensor and said they didn’t find anything wrong. So I went home and started to load up the car again. The light in the trunk soon went out again, and then I got the same message again. I called the service advisor, and he said that I might not have driven it enough to charge the new battery. So I just drove 25 miles and bought a few things at a store. When I came back out, I got the message again. I drove 25 miles back home, and before I could unload 2 items from the trunk the lights went out and the message appeared again. Fortunately, the car has started up OK.
I am going to take the car back to the dealer either tomorrow or Monday. I’m starting to worry that they’re never going to solve this. Wouldn’t driving 50 miles be plenty to charge the battery?
Any and all ideas as to what the dealership should check will be greatly appreciated!
 

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An update on my battery issue. I was planning to go on a trip today, so I started to load up my car. I noticed right away that the light in the trunk was going out too quickly again. Sure enough, after about 5 more minutes I got the same “System off to save battery” message. I went back to the dealership, and they reset the BMS sensor and said they didn’t find anything wrong. So I went home and started to load up the car again. The light in the trunk soon went out again, and then I got the same message again. I called the service advisor, and he said that I might not have driven it enough to charge the new battery. So I just drove 25 miles and bought a few things at a store. When I came back out, I got the message again. I drove 25 miles back home, and before I could unload 2 items from the trunk the lights went out and the message appeared again. Fortunately, the car has started up OK.?…Any and all ideas as to what the dealership should check will be greatly appreciated!
Read this:
 

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An update on my battery issue. I was planning to go on a trip today, so I started to load up my car. I noticed right away that the light in the trunk was going out too quickly again. Sure enough, after about 5 more minutes I got the same “System off to save battery” message. I went back to the dealership, and they reset the BMS sensor and said they didn’t find anything wrong. So I went home and started to load up the car again. The light in the trunk soon went out again, and then I got the same message again. I called the service advisor, and he said that I might not have driven it enough to charge the new battery. So I just drove 25 miles and bought a few things at a store. When I came back out, I got the message again. I drove 25 miles back home, and before I could unload 2 items from the trunk the lights went out and the message appeared again. Fortunately, the car has started up OK.
I am going to take the car back to the dealer either tomorrow or Monday. I’m starting to worry that they’re never going to solve this. Wouldn’t driving 50 miles be plenty to charge the battery?
Any and all ideas as to what the dealership should check will be greatly appreciated!
Your new battery should have been full when replaced. Do you have an auto parts store nearby? Have them run a cold crank test on it. Really, that would definitely give you an independent answer on that battery.

Aside from testing the battery and making sure the BMS system is correctly reset with a full battery installed, I cannot help more because my Escape 3G doesn’t have that Ford Pass system on it.
 

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I would buy a multimeter if you don’t already have one (pretty cheap at your local Walmart) and see what voltage the battery is really giving off and when you turn the car off, continue to monitor it for a few moments. It could be possible that the battery is not storing charge long after shutting it off, or you could have a system drawing from the battery but I don’t think that’s as likely considering you didn’t really have many issues before the replacement.
 

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Do you mean that the battery installed is not powerful enough?
Well that has been the experience of many others here with that particular vehicle who have replaced it with the AGM battery and they appear to have had no issues since. This is often after having the factory battery replaced 2 or 3 times by their Ford dealer.
The problem only seems to occur with some 2020 + Hybrid models and not our 3G Escapes.
However, in saying that, other solutions should be investigated first as discussed here.
 

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Well that has been the experience of many others here with that particular vehicle who have replaced it with the AGM battery and they appear to have had no issues since. This is often after having the factory battery replaced 2 or 3 times by their Ford dealer.
The problem only seems to occur with some 2020 + Hybrid models and not our 3G Escapes.
However, in saying that, other solutions should be investigated first as discussed here.
I bought four Ford vehicles in the past 26 years but if I had to purchase a new one now (cross my fingers I won’t need one for a long time), I think I would move away from Ford and go with a Japanese car. I had two Hondas in the past.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I bought four Ford vehicles in the past 26 years but if I had to purchase a new one now (cross my fingers I won’t need one for a long time), I think I would move away from Ford and go with a Japanese car. I had two Hondas in the past.
Same here! I have a 2011 Fusion hybrid that has 251,000 miles on it, and I have had only 3 problems with it in 11 years. It still drives like a new car. I’ve had the Escape in to the dealership for 2 recalls (backup camera and the first engine fire one, and soon to be for another fire risk), 5 times to find a rattle and fix it, and just last week to fix a moonroof rattle. I may be forgetting a few other things. All since I got it in late March of 2020. Who knows how many times I’ll have to bring it back to get the battery issue fixed? This is far and away the worst car I’ve ever owned. This is my fifth car, and they’ve all gone at least 167,000 miles. I don’t think the Escape is ever going to make it :(
 

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Same here! I have a 2011 Fusion hybrid that has 251,000 miles on it, and I have had only 3 problems with it in 11 years. It still drives like a new car. I’ve had the Escape in to the dealership for 2 recalls (backup camera and the first engine fire one, and soon to be for another fire risk), 5 times to find a rattle and fix it, and just last week to fix a moonroof rattle. I may be forgetting a few other things. All since I got it in late March of 2020. Who knows how many times I’ll have to bring it back to get the battery issue fixed? This is far and away the worst car I’ve ever owned. This is my fifth car, and they’ve all gone at least 167,000 miles. I don’t think the Escape is ever going to make it :(
When I was younger, I often read about Ford being too much in a hurry to market new models. They seem to forego some checks and tests and then catch on with the issues later on. I still remember the Ford Pinto and its exploding gas tank. They did the same error with the Ford Focus 2000 that had 6-7 recalls within the first two years. They finally learned and my Focus 2003 had only one recall for some grease on the child locks. I still own it.

Go Go Go, get them to market but in the end, their reputation is suffering.
 

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I went out to my 2020 Escape hybrid with 73,000 miles on it yesterday morning and the electronic liftgate wouldn’t open. I was able to open it manually so I could put something in the back. I closed the liftgate. But when I tried to open it again, I couldn’t open it at all. Then all the lights in the car went out, and the car wouldn’t start. AAA came out and jumped the car, and it started. I took it to the dealer, and they replaced the battery and said they programmed the modules. I drove it home and it seemed fine. But I just went out to put something in the back, and the light in the trunk went out faster than usual. I then went to put something in the front seat, and then saw a message on the screen that said “System off to save battery”. Does this mean the new battery is about to die, too? Why is this happening???
12V battery can be charged or metered at the connector prongs beside fuse box under the hood, on driver's side... The black plastic positive (+) cover is clearly marked, and easily pops open towards the front, as seen here beneath red positive charger clamp... Negative clamp can be hooked up to chassis bolt near strut tower:
Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive exterior Automotive design Gas


Roadside Emergencies - Jump Starting the Vehicle - Hybrid Electric Vehicle (HEV)/Plug-In Hybrid Electric Vehicle (PHEV) (fordservicecontent.com)

Also, you could look under your spare tire to confirm your 12V battery was replaced... It may have a date on it.


ACDELCO 48AGM AGM; BCI Group 48; CCA 760 $161.79 Electrical > Battery > Battery | RockAuto
Gadget Font Camera accessory Electronic device Machine
 
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