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The light from an oem HID system far surpasses the old incandescent. And, there are many people that will pay a premium for HIDs.

LEDs are fast replacing both, but time will tell their durability and replacement costs (most are only full unit replacement if any part fails).

Ford did mess up when they made the Escape bulbs and ballasts so difficult to replace (the Kuga, its twin, has easily replaceable HID bulbs and ballasts).
I see a similar amount of cars with LED headlights out (almost every morning!) as for conventional headlights. Electronics fail too.
 

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So the Dealer looked at the headlights, and of course they worked once they were warmed up in the service bay (Murphy's law of appliance repair is holding true here). I did demonstrate to the service writer that the right headlight (which was the stickiest one when I first started working on them) did stick when I first pulled it in this morning. It was about -10F outside. When they told me that they worked fine in the shop, I said, OK, how about when I take it back outside in the single digit temps?
They put in a call to the Ford "Hotline". Waiting to hear back on that. They didn't indicate that they WEREN'T covered under the ESP even without the lighting add-on. I'll update here once I get word back on what they're going to do.
 

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Don't hold your breath on Ford ESP covering it. Assuming you have the PremiumCare ESP, everything is covered unless it is specifically excluded. The lights are excluded unless you have paid for the lighting coverage. See the attached paragraph from the ESP plan that I have.

Ford may cover part of the cost in the interest of customer satisfaction.
 

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Don't hold your breath on Ford ESP covering it. Assuming you have the PremiumCare ESP, everything is covered unless it is specifically excluded. The lights are excluded unless you have paid for the lighting coverage. See the attached paragraph from the ESP plan that I have.

Ford may cover part of the cost in the interest of customer satisfaction.
As I said earlier, and your snip also says, that BULBS are not covered without the lighting package, but the bulbs are fine, it's the shutters and solenoids that are sticking. That's a mechanical issue, not a burnt out bulb. I'm heading to the dealer today to discuss warranty. If they refuse to warranty it, I'm kicking it upstairs to Ford. There's another thread from a member here who had the same issue that was covered under warranty.
 

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Almost a year later, someone tell me they have good news on this? My passenger side shutter has started sticking. I noticed a week or two ago, and then it happened again last night. I'm not going to use high beams until I can figure out a cost effective solution.
 

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Almost a year later, someone tell me they have good news on this? My passenger side shutter has started sticking. I noticed a week or two ago, and then it happened again last night. I'm not going to use high beams until I can figure out a cost effective solution.
Unfortunately, This hasn't come to a good resolution for me. The Ford dealer (supposedly) talked with the warranty people and got a refusal to cover the issue, even though I told them to stress the fact that it's mechanical and not a bulb issue. We haven't done anything yet, as normally we don't even need headlights for the bulk of the year here in Alaska. And it hasn't gotten very cold yet. I have noticed the right one sticking recently, but normal road vibration seems to eventually get it back to low beam cutoff position.
I just checked and list price has come down to ONLY $1,225.91 (Big deal!!). The "white box" version is $741.69 from Autonation Ford White Bear Lake. FYI the required PN's (for '13-'16 Escapes) are CJ5Z-13008-A (right) and CJ5Z-13008-B (left) (adding CP on the end of the PN gets you the same thing for the lesser price. I understand that's Ford's "Collision Pricing" in order to stay competitive with aftermarket parts. The other option is to find used headlight assemblies, which doesn't mean they won't have the same issue. Of course, even a new OEM assembly might have the same issue.
 

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Just a little FYI for anyone looking for junkyard headlights, I used car-part.com to search for the HID headlight assemblies and the cheapest I found within 700 miles of my location was $650 and that was with small stress cracks. Most were in the $800-1000 price range so even used may not be much cheaper.
 

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Just a little FYI for anyone looking for junkyard headlights, I used car-part.com to search for the HID headlight assemblies and the cheapest I found within 700 miles of my location was $650 and that was with small stress cracks. Most were in the $800-1000 price range so even used may not be much cheaper.
Well, That sucks! Might as well buy new at those prices.
I did just manage to pick up a used one for $250 tonight. Score one for me! (y)
 

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So I installed the replacement headlight assembly the other day. It was a giant pain, and took about 4 hours. I needed to loosen the bumper cover, which keys into the bottom of the headlight assembly. The slots that fit into the headlight assembly are visible along the back side of the bumper cover in the first picture. There are also 3 bolts that hold the bumper cover to the fender (along the rear of the bumper cover in the first photo) as well as a bunch of screws along the wheel well and bottom, and some push pins along the top of the radiator support into the grille. The 3 bolts are accessed from behind the headlight assembly, or from underneath thru the wheel well (the fender liner has to be detached and pulled back.) Then there's a bolt inito the headlight assembly from the outside just in front of the fender and behind the bumper cover (another reason the bumper cover has to come off.) The hole the bolt goes in is visible above the two bolts in the second photo (taken from the wheel well). I tried to get at it from below, but the horn is in the way, and the horn won't come off without removing the bumper cover even further than I did. What a pain. (I said that already but it was really a pain in the arse.)
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BTW, the replacement one works fine at below zero temps. It was built in '15, so newer than the originals.
 

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If you plan on needing to take the bumper or headlight out again, leaving the bottom bolt for the headlight off makes the whole process infinitely easier. Credit to @02fordsvt who mentioned that in another thread. Been running mine like that for a few months and have had no problems.
 

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I thought about that, but the bumper cover needs to come loose anyway to get the headlight assembly out, so I went ahead and reinstalled that bolt. With the bumper cover keyed into the headlight assembly, it needs to be loosened to release those tabs.
 

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This is why I had my buddy's shop install my replacement headlight. Too much trouble for a simpleton like myself to accomplish. I do however have Osram CBB bulbs installed too and they really improve the output of these HID projectors. I highly recommend them to everyone with OEM HIDS
 
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