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I used the following method to disable the auto-stop function. I purchased a UV glue pen. While pressing the auto-stop button, I ran a small, almost invisible bead of UV glue around the button. Cured the glue with the UV light and DONE. bouldercosoon.
Genius...the thought and calculations that must have gone into that solution.
Just shows what you can do with some technical knowledge...:LOL::LOL:
 

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OMG! This seems too simple to be safe. Comments PLEASE. :love:
 

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While pressing the auto-stop button, I ran a small, almost invisible bead of UV glue around the button. Cured the glue with the UV light and DONE.
That could possibly be logging a fault for the switch. (I'm guessing it's a momentary contact switch that you've glued permanently "on"?)

It's going to be very hard (and expensive) to reverse it too.
 

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Why is every thread so dang old on this forum? Its so weird.

On topic, I'm not sure if gluing it would actually work. Good trolling.

However you can disable it fairly easily. Just unplug the BMS current sensor which is either an amp clamp near the battery or on the battery negative terminal itself. Ta-Da. Sets some codes but nothing that turns a dash light on.
 

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Just unplug the BMS current sensor which is either an amp clamp near the battery or on the battery negative terminal itself.
I'm not sure that would be a good move? The BMS system is complex and important. People who have had that sensor fail through corrosion have had all sorts of weird electrical faults.

Or are you trolling???
 
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I'm not sure that would be a good move? The BMS system is complex and important. People who have had that sensor fail through corrosion have had all sorts of weird electrical faults.

Or are you trolling???
Sounds to me like a troll.
 
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Why is every thread so dang old on this forum? Its so weird.
No idea what you are taking about. The only thing weird is that comment.
 

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I'm not sure that would be a good move? The BMS system is complex and important. People who have had that sensor fail through corrosion have had all sorts of weird electrical faults.

Or are you trolling???
Its not important. The only reason the BMS exists is for auto start stop. Well not the ONLY reason but the main reason. Its also used to know battery capacity for things like putting the radio in power save mode. The original reason they made a BMS was to adjust alternator voltage to save a minuscule amount of fuel. You obviously don't care about the fuel if you want auto start stop off. If you have a decent battery you really don't need the BMS. That's my opinion.


No idea what you are taking about. The only thing weird is that comment.
Just like so many threads are from 3, 4, or 5 years ago and still getting posted on. Just never see that on forums ever. Really confusing too because it looks like a lot of threads were merged together or something. Just an observation compared to other forums I've been a part of.
 

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There's a few Auto Stop Eliminators on the market now, but they cost $100 ..too pricey I think...They plug into the OBDII socket and they remember the last position you left it in.. Just remove it to keep OEM setting....Try Autostopeliminator.com..under 2017-19 Escape...
 

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Just like so many threads are from 3, 4, or 5 years ago and still getting posted on. Just never see that on forums ever. Really confusing too because it looks like a lot of threads were merged together or something. Just an observation compared to other forums I've been a part of.
Because relevant info- or the answer to the post- is contained within the thread. eg. an easily reversible solution to over riding start/ stop was posted back on page 2.

I permanently disabled mine on my 2017 FE SE. You need to remove the trim holding the stop/start switch to unplug the harness connection to the switch.

I then made a 1" jumper and connected the white wire and black/purple wire if I recall correctly on the harness plug.

Then I plugged the switch back on the harness and reattached the trim. When I turn on the ignition the switch indicates 'off' all the time. It's been that way for four months now and worksave flawlessly.
 
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That could possibly be logging a fault for the switch. (I'm guessing it's a momentary contact switch that you've glued permanently "on"?)

It's going to be very hard (and expensive) to reverse it too.
"It's going to be very hard (and expensive) to reverse it too".
I'm not sure what you mean here? Surely a switch can't be that expensive? Also, I think you could carefully cut around the edges of the switch with an "exacto knife" to free it up?
 

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Yes jumping or gluing a momentary switch will get the S/S off but I would worry that the electronics that is used to activate and de activate the system, isn't designed for constant contact.. They probably are using some type of momentary latching micro relay or circuit for that, and by jumping or holding the contact on, might in long run cause a problem...Maybe....What say you??
 

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Surely a switch can't be that expensive? Also, I think you could carefully cut around the edges of the switch with an "exacto knife" to free it up?
Possibly not that expensive in North America, here it would cost a lot.

A knife to cut around the switch- I don't see that ending well for the cosmetic appearance. Why not just do the simple wire jumping on the rear of the switch- as the earlier post explained?
 

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I permanently disabled mine on my 2017 FE SE. You need to remove the trim holding the stop/start switch to unplug the harness connection to the switch.

I then made a 1" jumper and connected the white wire and black/purple wire if I recall correctly on the harness plug.

Then I plugged the switch back on the harness and reattached the trim. When I turn on the ignition the switch indicates 'off' all the time. It's been that way for four months now and works flawlessly.
Is this "fix" still working flawlessly to-day? How do you remove the trim that holds the S/S switch? I've seen how they remove the F 150 trim but obviously the 2017 Escape is entirely different. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Dave.

:)
 
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