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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Over in the towing forum, someone mentioned that they had installed the towing package in their garage after getting the car home. Unfortunately, they never followed up with a how-to, so here we are. There aren't enough pictures in this, but hopefully I can provide enough info that people aren't going in blind.

Main advantage of this over the UHAUL variety is that it is embedded in the rear bumper cover. You lose less ground clearance compared to aftermarket options. I did not bother with the OEM trailer wiring as its just a tap into the brake lights. If I hit the point I need it, I can tackle that then.

Final product:
79868


Supplies needed:
1 x Hitch kit, part number LJ6Z-19D520-AA. If you look around online, you can get this for about $300.
1 x Plastic fastener removal tool, like this: Amazon.com: Lisle 35260 Plastic Fastener Remover: Automotive
1 x Socket set with 8-18mm sockets
1 x Torque Wrench capable of 85 ft lbs
1 x set of tin snips or other tool capable of cutting thick plastic and thin metal.
1x Rivet gun or 2x zip ties

Before you start, double check to make sure your hitch kit has 8 bolts, a new rear plastic cover, the hitch receiver, and 2 plastic rivets.

Steps:
1. Fit the new plastic cover on. Remove the old silver cover. There is a plastic rivet on each end you will need to cut out.
79860

You can then pry the silver plastic cover out of the black plastic bumper cover. Put the new silver plastic cover on in its place. Reattach the ends using the included plastic rivets, or zip ties if you don't have a rivet gun.
2. Detach the exhaust heat shield from the rear bumper cover. I think it was 6x 8mm hex head screws along the bottom edge of the black plastic bumper cover.
3. Cut a hole for the hitch receiver. With the new cover on, you will see that the cutout for the hitch receiver is currently blocked. The area under the cutout looks something like this:
79861

Trace the cutout straight down to the end of the black plastic cover. Cut this section out with the tin snips. Your rear bumper cover is now modified for the receiver.
4. Remove rear bumper cover. Now for the fun part. In Ford's instructions, this is just a step that states "remove rear bumper cover" like that is totally routine. I'm not that mean.
First we need to detach the bumper cover from the rear wheel wells. On the driver side, there are two 10 mm hex head screw under the bumper just to the rear of the wheel well. Then, both have plastic clips in the wheel well like so:
79862

Not pictured is a fifth one lower in the wheel well. Remove all five of these plastic fasteners. Either carefully use the tool, or make sure you have some replacements handy. The center lifts out and then you can pull the fastener out. Pull back the black trim piece these fasteners go into. It will come off almost to the peak of the wheel well, where a white fastener will hold it in. You probably need to remove one of the white fasteners, but its not essential. Behind this cover you will find one more plastic fastener:
79863

Remove this. Once you have done so on both sides, the entire rear bumper cover assembly can be removed. Work your way up from where the fastener under the cover was, gently popping the rear bumper cover out, it will go up to the headlight, down under the hatch lip, and the same on the other side. There are no other screws or fasteners holding it in.
79864

Once you pop all the attachment points out (they aren't standalone fasteners, its just kind of clipped to each other with wedges and loops molded into each piece of plastic), the rear bumper will be removable.
5. Remove the original metal bumper. There will be 4x nuts around where it meets the frame. Unscrew these and the old bumper will come off. Once removed, put the nuts back on the threads to protect them.
6. Attach the hitch. Push the hitch into the holes in the frame left by removing the old bumper. There are 4 bolt holes on each side, but they are in a different place than the original bumper used. Screw them in and torque to 85 ft lbs.
79865

79866

79867

7. Reattach rear bumper. At this point, reassembly is pretty much reverse of disassembly.
8. Cut exhaust heat shield. The exhaust heat shield will need a notch cut in it for the hitch receiver before reattaching to the bumper. I basically eyeballed it as I put them together, and cut a small notch. Then reattach the exhaust heat shield to the rear bumper cover.

All in all, its not super difficult, popping off the rear bumper cover is a little nerve wracking in terms of not breaking plastics, but other than that its straight forward. I would not do this on one of these in 10 years if someone finds this post on google, as the plastics will be way too brittle to do this easily. However, on a newer vehicle it wasn't too bad.

Hopefully this helps someone.
 

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Persian Green 2020 Escape Ti Hybrid
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3,117 Posts
Bumper cover clips in general aren't that prone breakage if you have the plastic above 65º F, plastic is much more forgiving when it's warm.
So whenever you can park the end you're going to work on in the sun for an hour or so if you can.
 

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I dont think you can just "tap into" the rear lights. The factory package uses relays to isolate and protect the cars lighting. If your trailer has multiple lights, it may overload the cars brake lights and running lights. And the factory package adds an auxiliary tranny cooler.
 

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2014 Ford Escape Titanium, 2.0L, Sync 2 MFT
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7,617 Posts
I was thinking the same thing regarding the title. It is deceiving as it is not the tow package. Very good instructions to install the hitch.
 

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2020 Escape SE I3 & 2020 Titanium Hybrid
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285 Posts
I used the oem hitch and the aftermarket Curt kit for the lights, it has T-harness that plugs into the lights and you have to run a wire to the battery.
79896


On a side note, the battery slides into the tray, so you have to remove the airbox to remove the battery.
79897
 

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Over in the towing forum, someone mentioned that they had installed the towing package in their garage after getting the car home. Unfortunately, they never followed up with a how-to, so here we are. There aren't enough pictures in this, but hopefully I can provide enough info that people aren't going in blind.

Main advantage of this over the UHAUL variety is that it is embedded in the rear bumper cover. You lose less ground clearance compared to aftermarket options. I did not bother with the OEM trailer wiring as its just a tap into the brake lights. If I hit the point I need it, I can tackle that then.

Final product:
View attachment 79868

Supplies needed:
1 x Hitch kit, part number LJ6Z-19D520-AA. If you look around online, you can get this for about $300.
1 x Plastic fastener removal tool, like this: Amazon.com: Lisle 35260 Plastic Fastener Remover: Automotive
1 x Socket set with 8-18mm sockets
1 x Torque Wrench capable of 85 ft lbs
1 x set of tin snips or other tool capable of cutting thick plastic and thin metal.
1x Rivet gun or 2x zip ties

Before you start, double check to make sure your hitch kit has 8 bolts, a new rear plastic cover, the hitch receiver, and 2 plastic rivets.

Steps:
1. Fit the new plastic cover on. Remove the old silver cover. There is a plastic rivet on each end you will need to cut out.
View attachment 79860
You can then pry the silver plastic cover out of the black plastic bumper cover. Put the new silver plastic cover on in its place. Reattach the ends using the included plastic rivets, or zip ties if you don't have a rivet gun.
2. Detach the exhaust heat shield from the rear bumper cover. I think it was 6x 8mm hex head screws along the bottom edge of the black plastic bumper cover.
3. Cut a hole for the hitch receiver. With the new cover on, you will see that the cutout for the hitch receiver is currently blocked. The area under the cutout looks something like this:
View attachment 79861
Trace the cutout straight down to the end of the black plastic cover. Cut this section out with the tin snips. Your rear bumper cover is now modified for the receiver.
4. Remove rear bumper cover. Now for the fun part. In Ford's instructions, this is just a step that states "remove rear bumper cover" like that is totally routine. I'm not that mean.
First we need to detach the bumper cover from the rear wheel wells. On the driver side, there are two 10 mm hex head screw under the bumper just to the rear of the wheel well. Then, both have plastic clips in the wheel well like so:
View attachment 79862
Not pictured is a fifth one lower in the wheel well. Remove all five of these plastic fasteners. Either carefully use the tool, or make sure you have some replacements handy. The center lifts out and then you can pull the fastener out. Pull back the black trim piece these fasteners go into. It will come off almost to the peak of the wheel well, where a white fastener will hold it in. You probably need to remove one of the white fasteners, but its not essential. Behind this cover you will find one more plastic fastener:
View attachment 79863
Remove this. Once you have done so on both sides, the entire rear bumper cover assembly can be removed. Work your way up from where the fastener under the cover was, gently popping the rear bumper cover out, it will go up to the headlight, down under the hatch lip, and the same on the other side. There are no other screws or fasteners holding it in.
View attachment 79864
Once you pop all the attachment points out (they aren't standalone fasteners, its just kind of clipped to each other with wedges and loops molded into each piece of plastic), the rear bumper will be removable.
5. Remove the original metal bumper. There will be 4x nuts around where it meets the frame. Unscrew these and the old bumper will come off. Once removed, put the nuts back on the threads to protect them.
6. Attach the hitch. Push the hitch into the holes in the frame left by removing the old bumper. There are 4 bolt holes on each side, but they are in a different place than the original bumper used. Screw them in and torque to 85 ft lbs.
View attachment 79865
View attachment 79866
View attachment 79867
7. Reattach rear bumper. At this point, reassembly is pretty much reverse of disassembly.
8. Cut exhaust heat shield. The exhaust heat shield will need a notch cut in it for the hitch receiver before reattaching to the bumper. I basically eyeballed it as I put them together, and cut a small notch. Then reattach the exhaust heat shield to the rear bumper cover.

All in all, its not super difficult, popping off the rear bumper cover is a little nerve wracking in terms of not breaking plastics, but other than that its straight forward. I would not do this on one of these in 10 years if someone finds this post on google, as the plastics will be way too brittle to do this easily. However, on a newer vehicle it wasn't too bad.

Hopefully this helps someone.
Great tutorial! I'm sure this will help many people in the future.
Does anyone know if the option to sweep your foot to open the lift gate is affected by addition of the hitch?
 

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2020 Escape SE I3 & 2020 Titanium Hybrid
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285 Posts
Does anyone know if the option to sweep your foot to open the lift gate is affected by addition of the hitch?
You have to purchase a relocation kit for the module or use a aftermarket hitch.
 

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57 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I dont think you can just "tap into" the rear lights. The factory package uses relays to isolate and protect the cars lighting. If your trailer has multiple lights, it may overload the cars brake lights and running lights. And the factory package adds an auxiliary tranny cooler.
Fixed. I don't believe the factory package adds a cooler on the Hybrid, which may be where my confusion comes from.

The lighting I'm less sure of. Other posts made it sound like the difference between the Curt kit and the Ford kit was negligible. Its a fair point that you do need some sort of kit for lighting though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If I wanted to replace the heat shield instead of cutting it, any way to know if this is the right one? LX6Z-5811434-P
I'm not really sure, BUT I can tell you that for hybrids the tow hitch was a dealer installed accessory. The dealer I ordered mine from sent the pages from the factory service manual on how to install it, and Ford's instructions were to cut the heat shield lol.

Buy an 8$ set of tin snips and its really really easy to do. The heat shield is about the thickness of an aluminum soda can.
 

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Moderately disappointed with my install. Everything went ok except that I used a dremel to cut the opening in the bumper cover. Duh, Dremel heats the bumper and bumper slowly melts. Wasn't too bad but my OCD is driving me crazy on it and making me buy a replacement $230 bumper cover. Well, live and learn ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Moderately disappointed with my install. Everything went ok except that I used a dremel to cut the opening in the bumper cover. Duh, Dremel heats the bumper and bumper slowly melts. Wasn't too bad but my OCD is driving me crazy on it and making me buy a replacement $230 bumper cover. Well, live and learn ...
None of my cuts were visible, so I didn't have that issue. They don't look great under the fascia, but you can't see that... So I wasn't worried about it.

Good tip to not use a dremel. I almost did but was lazy and decided tin snips were easier.
 

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None of my cuts were visible, so I didn't have that issue. They don't look great under the fascia, but you can't see that... So I wasn't worried about it.

Good tip to not use a dremel. I almost did but was lazy and decided tin snips were easier.
Yeah, I would definitely not use a dremel. One side of my cut was a little too much so it showed once I put on the fascia. If it was a used car I would probably not care so much but as its brand new it definitely bothers me.
 

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As an update for me: I was also not too pleased with my cuts on the heat shield so I ordered an OEM one with factory hitch cutout.

I must say, for something that "brittle" you would think Ford would send it in a box. Instead, they send it loose in a plastic bag. Yes, It can be sort or reformed, but it is super thin and easily bendable.
 
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