Do you have the part number?
(How-To) Install the OEM Tow Hitch
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The wire to the battery: how did you get it into the cabin from the engine compartment?
I'll give that a try. Thanks!
You must be kidding right? No the process isn’t even close to the same.
Oh yeah. The only difference is the color.
where do I get these documents. Thank You for the information.
You should find an Edge forum and post your question there.
I know this is an older thread, but it was very helpful when we put a hitch on our 22 Escape PHEV.
I did have a couple notes that might help the next guy:
I did have a couple notes that might help the next guy:
- If you can buy this when you order the car, the $500 installed fee is an absolute bargain.
- The PHEV has some sort of... thing bolted under the car behind the left rear wheel. I think it's an evap canister. It's completely in the way. We removed the three bracket bolts, hung it out of the way on a bit of wire so as to not stretch the hoses, put it back after. Car still runs. This was the only difference I saw between our hybrid and the gasser in the writeup.
- Our bumper cover had a pair of cut lines molded on the back. Run a fine-tooth hacksaw down them. Nice and clean, no problem.
- The factory wire harness (LX6Z-15A416-B) is worth using, even if you're going with a third-party light controller. The routing is right up the back of the hitch and it's very intuitive. The wires are protected well. There's a connector for the harness by the left rear wheel. There's another connector inside the car where you can pick up the wires--it's visible in 360Alaska's picture above. Really clean way to bring the wiring into the vehicle without adding any new holes. (You might also find a fused +12v for the trailer lights in that connector.)
- I'm trying to keep the trailer wiring as factory as possible. Probably a mistake. Turns out the factory tow light module (LJ6Z-19H332-A) doesn't plug directly into the car. It needs another harness, LX6T-13A576-AB. It's a bit hard to find, and it's spendy for a few feet of wire.
- I'm about $200 into the wiring and light module right now. I think I have everything I need to make it work, but who knows what sort of Forscan horrors await. It would have been much cheaper to go for a Curt or Tekonsha lighting box.
I have a 2020 Escape hybrid that is setup to be towed by my motorhome and I have a bike rack for my e bikes and they block the taillights so I want to add a 4 pin plug for lights, does anyone know if the power from the motorhome brake lights will pass through when the car is being towed?
The factory tow lighting controller on the Escape reads the CAN bus to trigger trailer lights. If you have an aftermarket wiring kit that splices the RV into your car's brake lights and turn signals, I don't see how that signal would pass through the car's factory trailer wiring as well. It wouldn't put any signal out on the CAN bus.
If your Escape's trailer hitch wiring is an aftermarket setups that taps directly into the brake light wires, and your motorhome wiring adapter also splices directly into the brake light wires-it could work? Probably? To be honest, not sure what you're gaining by tying into the car's wiring at that point. (Possibly lighting up car brake lights that are obscured by the bike rack anyway?)
I think you'd be better plugging a set of magnetic tow lights directly into the RV. Amazon has them starting at $20 (though I don't think this is a case where you want to go with the lowest bidder).
I can not plug into the motorhome because it is already plug into the car to operate the turn,brake,lights and also charge the Escapes battery when I am towing it on with the motorhome on trips I need a way to have lights on the Escape because they are obstructed by the bikes and I am not sure if buying the Tekonsha TE54FR wiring will work according to Etrailer.com it may.
If your Ford is already wired with a Curt or Tekonsha aftermarket light controller... it ought to work. RV puts voltage on the rear lights, controller sees that voltage & turns on the wiring to its own 4-pin.
If you already have one of these controllers installed, plug in some lights and see what happens. If you don't, though, I think getting a splitter for the 7-pin trailer plug is a simpler solution. Plug the Ford into one side, plug extra lights directly into the RV on the other side. RV runs all the lights itself without using the car as a glorified extension cord.
I don't think you can daisy-chain lights if your Ford was wired for towing at the factory. The factory setup doesn't watch the lighting circuit for voltage. It watches the computer bus to see if somebody has flipped the turn signal lever. I'd be amazed if the harness that connects your RV to the Ford is sophisticated enough to work on that level. It would be complete overkill.
If you already have one of these controllers installed, plug in some lights and see what happens. If you don't, though, I think getting a splitter for the 7-pin trailer plug is a simpler solution. Plug the Ford into one side, plug extra lights directly into the RV on the other side. RV runs all the lights itself without using the car as a glorified extension cord.
I don't think you can daisy-chain lights if your Ford was wired for towing at the factory. The factory setup doesn't watch the lighting circuit for voltage. It watches the computer bus to see if somebody has flipped the turn signal lever. I'd be amazed if the harness that connects your RV to the Ford is sophisticated enough to work on that level. It would be complete overkill.
I am not sure what the used when I had it wired the car for it to be towed it is aftermarket. I need to have the lights on the bike rack even when its not being towed because they are blocked when the bikes are on the rack.
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